To mist or not to mist?

**EL Ziggy** · 01-14-16, 11:40 PM

My humidity has been dropping into the low 30%s lately. It's usually in the 40-60% range. Do you all mist your carpet enclosures? The heat bulbs are on a dimmer and set pretty low. I use them to help boost my ambient temps a few degrees. I have uths for hot spots.

dannybgoode · 01-14-16, 11:53 PM

Do you need the heat source at the cool end. I find just having a che at the warm end creates the right thermal gradient. The second heat source won't be helping with humidity.

Also think carefully about using heat mats with larger snakes. They can cause quite significant issues with thermal blocking and they do not really warm the whole mass of a large snake.

toddnbecka · 01-15-16, 01:34 AM

I use cypress mulch for substrate, and water bowls large enough for the carpets to completely submerge in. The smaller female in the 29 also has a ceramic cichlid stone sitting on a thick bed of sphagnum moss directly under the che, she typically hangs out there after eating. The larger carpet is housed in a 40 breeder with a rhp on the cool end, with a heat mat under a large ceramic tile (water bowl on top of that) on the warm end. I never mist, just dump some water onto the mulch when the humidity drops in the 29. Really haven't had to water the mulch in the 40.

chairman · 01-15-16, 08:23 AM

I use a very similar approach to what toddnbecka uses. My male likes to perch in the open, either on his perches or on/in his water bowl. My female prefers to hide in a cork round but perches when hungry.

Perhaps move the water dish directly below the CHE? It looks like your perches will sit safely over the top on them and you might be able to keep using aspen that way.

**EL Ziggy** · 01-15-16, 08:48 AM

Copy that team. I'll move the water bowls under the heat bulbs for now. I'll also consider switching substrates if the humidity doesn't pick up. I'll be getting RHPs once they move into their individual adult enclosures next year but have to make this one work for now. Thanks for the advice.

**EL Ziggy** · 01-15-16, 09:20 AM

Can I kill the heat bulbs altogether and just stick with the UTH's? My hot spot is about 88 and the ambient temps are in the mid-high 70s during the day and as low as 70 at night. I use the heat bulbs to raise my ambient temps to about 82. It also provides a basking spot of about 90 since they sometimes like to perch more than they like to stay on the ground. Any thoughts? Thanks for the advice.

dannybgoode · 01-15-16, 12:27 PM

Kill the heat mats if your snakes are of any size. Not good for large snakes at all.

If they're still babies they'll do for now but plan on getting rid of them altogether...

chairman · 01-15-16, 12:59 PM

I keep my ambient temperature in the low 70s and provide a hot spot via heat cable wrapped around half of a perch. My carpets seem to be thermoregulating just fine, have voracious appetites, and at a year old are around 500g.

I'd say to go ahead and turn off the heat bulbs but keep the UTH. It can't be contributing too much in terms of ambient heat but belly heat seems to be appreciated.

Sasha2 · 01-15-16, 02:18 PM

I have a tub filled with eco earth that is kept damp, the lid is cut in half and Oz loves this and it adds humidity. He hangs out half in and half out most of the time.I use a CHE over his warm side with shelf to bask on for a hot spot and no UTH.
I still havent gotten his big enclosure finished, its been so cold I cant work in the garage without freezing to death.

trailblazer295 · 01-15-16, 08:21 PM

I have a 24x24x12 pvc with a UTH and RHP for my boa. Even using cypress mulch I find that humidity drops pretty quick, where my larger BP cage with a UTH and RHP will maintain a lot longer the smaller cage drys out a lot faster. I keep pouring water into the cypress to boost humidity. Seems I have to add moisture every few days to maintain decent levels.

**EL Ziggy** · 01-15-16, 08:44 PM

I haven't had any issues with the snakes eating or shedding but I'll work on boosting my humidity a bit. Isn't it true that snakes get most of the moisture they need not from the air but from their food?

trailblazer295 · 01-15-16, 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EL-Ziggy

I haven't had any issues with the snakes eating or shedding but I'll work on boosting my humidity a bit. Isn't it true that snakes get most of the moisture they need not from the air but from their food?

Never heard that before but in theory it makes sense, if a snake hardly drinks water because they retain moisture from meals as the majority of their water intake why if the body is full of water does the ambient air need to be humidified for shedding. Desert reptiles shed in very dry environments without issue. A reptile is a reptile I can't see their skin being that different.

dannybgoode · 01-16-16, 03:22 AM

Where are you guys measuring humidity also. Humidity tends to be higher at ground level (as luck would have it where snakes spend a fair amount of time).

I was concerned about my levels but my hygrometer was placed just about half way up the back wall. I know have a probe at substrate level - I am currently using aspen so very dry substrate anyway, I have some orchid bark to go in tomorrow and will mount it properly about 1/2" above ground level - and it's giving me a steady 55-58%. Perfect for my boa.

I think humidity (unless it's for a species that really needs it, say a BRB) is one of those things that whilst very important we tend to over think. If your snakes shed well in one piece and are eating and defeacating normally then the chances are the humidity is good...

dannybgoode · 01-16-16, 06:05 AM

Couple of other observations. Don't forget snakes do drink from the water dish. If you've never seen it, it's quite funny to watch!

Also, again for most species of snakes higher humidity is generally only required during shed and a humidity hide (plastic tub with an entrance cut in and filled with damp sphagnum moss) works a treat. The snake can then go in there when it feels the need.

Of course some snakes require higher humidity all the time but generally people who keep such snakes set the viv up accordingly...

**Andy_G** · 01-17-16, 02:08 PM

A couple of things.

1. Although it would help remedy a humidity issue, moving a water source to directly under or over a heat source will accelerate the growth of micro-organisms in the water supply, so just be aware of that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannybgoode

Kill the heat mats if your snakes are of any size. Not good for large snakes at all.

If they're still babies they'll do for now but plan on getting rid of them altogether...

2. I am very respectfully not on board with this opinion at all, or at least how it is being conveyed. I can see it as not being the first choice with giants, depending on certain factors such as the size of the heat pad/mat/source as well as ambient temps involved for example...but in respect to this situation, I can't agree. I can however say that an RHP would be more ideal for you if you are experiencing issues with ambient temps. One RHP would replace the bulbs as well as the heat pad, so it may be advantageous for you to look into this as a possibility in the future if it would work better for you.

I would either periodically mist OR provide a humid hide. Sounds like you need the two bulbs for temps, and even on the lowest setting they will dry out your cage a little bit.