New Healthy Ball Python - Need Some Tips

mattchibi · 09-19-11, 08:30 AM

Hey guys,

Im new on this forum. Just got a healthy 3 yr old female ball python from a breeder. I would really appreciate any help from experienced owners with how to attain the correct temperatures in the cage as well as tips regarding handling and feeding.

My setup at the moment:

20 Gallon Locking Glass Terrarium
2" of Aspen Snake Bedding
Water Dish on the left
Hide on the right (shes hiding inside at the moment)
Hygrometer in the middle
Two probe-thermometers on either side of the tank
&
Heat Lamp with dimmer
A 60 Watt Neodymium Day Glo bulb

Right now, the temperatures I am achieving are:
Daytime:
90 F on top of the hide (basking spot)
84.5 F ambient on the hot side (is this too low ?)
74 F on the cooler side

Nightime:
(I turned off my heat lamp for the first night, Ive had it since Sunday morning)
72 F all around

I have read online and been told by several other snake owners that I want 90-95 F on basking spot, 85-90 F on the warm side, and 78-82 F on the cooler side. And that during the night time, they are fine between 70-80 F.

So my question is: Should I use an UTH heater on the left side where the water is to raise the cooler side to around 80 F ? And should I also upgrade and get a 75 W bulb to achieve better temperatures on the warmer side ?

Lastly, I have heard that since I only got her on Sunday (yesterday) that I should wait at least a week to handle her. As well, I heard Its best to wait until they are feeding regularly to handle her more than once a week.

Sorry for all the questions, Im just eager to make my snake happy, as she is the first pet I have ever had. To add some incentive to help me, here's a picture of my ball, Morticia. (Notice the cool alien / ghost face markings on the side)

Lankyrob · 09-19-11, 10:44 AM

Hey there,

You want 91f hot end and 78f (approx) cold end - 95f i would say is too high.

One important thing not mentioned in your post is humidity - BP's need 55% minimum humidity and up to 70% when they are in shed process. You will have issues with having aspen as a substrate as it is quite likely to mold and also it is difficult keeping humidity up in an aquarium (tho not impossible).

The snake also needs hides at both ends of the tank not just one end otherwise it cant thermoregulate AND hide itself away, BP's are shy creatures - we see ours apart from feeding about once a month if not less often so the more hidey places you give it the better.

Snakefood · 09-19-11, 10:50 AM

MPO, is to get an UTH and use that instead of the basking light, the light is going to mess majorly with your humidity levels, whereas the UTH won't.

**lady_bug87** · 09-19-11, 10:57 AM

I use a mix of spagnum moss and jungle earth and I mist once a week having one side of the screen covered my humidity stays up around 55 during shed I mist every day
you need a bowl that the snake can soak in that one looks a bit small and a bit too shallow

mattchibi · 09-19-11, 01:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lankyrob

Hey there,

You want 91f hot end and 78f (approx) cold end - 95f i would say is too high.

One important thing not mentioned in your post is humidity - BP's need 55% minimum humidity and up to 70% when they are in shed process. You will have issues with having aspen as a substrate as it is quite likely to mold and also it is difficult keeping humidity up in an aquarium (tho not impossible).

The snake also needs hides at both ends of the tank not just one end otherwise it cant thermoregulate AND hide itself away, BP's are shy creatures - we see ours apart from feeding about once a month if not less often so the more hidey places you give it the better.

Ok thanks for the temperature suggestions. As for the substrate, I have also been told that Plantation Soil made from Coconut Husk are not too bad. What is the best substrate I can get at a Petsmart?

During the shed process, I have a humidifier that I can leave on in my room, which I think would help a bit. As well, I was going to get a UTH heater on the cooler side to increase the temp from 74 F to 78-79 F. If I placed the water bowl over the heater, would this also act as a crude humidifier ? Other options I thought about are moisture boxes which would be added in during shed, and I was also taught a technique to run my hands under warm water, then slightly dry my hands by flinging them in the air, and then directly playing with the snake. I did this once when my friends BP looked like it was gonna shed, and it indeed shed the night after. Oh, also I have been misting as well

As for a second hide, this is only a 20 gallon tank. I had a big branch I was going to put on the cooler side, do you think this is a bad idea ? Are two hides really necessary ? She is almost 3.5 feet now, do you think she needs a 30 gallon ? In which case I could have two hides, a much bigger water bowl, and some other decor too.

Last of all, I do have a screen top right now. Should I cover half of the top on the left side ? Will there still be enough oxygen for the snake ? And nobody really answered this, but should I not play with her until a week, or until I get her feeding correctly?

I really appreciate the help guys. (y)

Nismo89 · 09-19-11, 02:39 PM

Personally I use cypress mulch I got from Petco its made by zoo med and called Forest Floor it works great. I wouldn't put the UTH on the cool side because then it won't thermoregulate right I would put it on the side with the lamp with a thermostat hooked up. I have no problems fitting 2 hides a water bowl a climbing branch and two fake leaves in my 20 gal and theres still plenty of space. The snake absolutely needs a hide on both the cool and warm end so it can always feel secure. I wouldn't suggest handling during shedding because it can cause the old skin to stick to the new skin because of the film they develop between the two layers before shedding. The screen top with supply sufficient amount of air. Its also a good idea to leave the snake alone until it eats with you and then take it from there.

Lankyrob · 09-19-11, 02:45 PM

Definitely needs two hides (if not more) and definitely dont handle during the shed process unless it is haveing major difficulties getting the old skin off. Covering the screen top will help with the humidity to some extent.

mattchibi · 09-19-11, 02:51 PM

Hey thanks for the quick replies.
He isn't shedding, nor does he look like hes about to shed. I just bought him from a close friend who has too many snakes. I read online that I should wait until I can get her to feed once before I play with it. is this true?

Also I think I will go with the zoo med forest floor cypress mulch, because it probably retains humidity better. How often should I change this stuff completely ?

Lankyrob · 09-19-11, 02:54 PM

If you spot clean religiously then changing substrate can be done as little as twice a year - i remove not only the mess but a good spoonful of the surrounding substrate and then chuck a new handful in - then every now and then they get a full clean out.

In terms of handling i wait until they have eaten one meal before trying handling - remember that it needs 48 hours after eating for digestion before being disturbed tho.

The other rule i have is that if a snake misses a meal it then gets zero interaction until it eats again for me.

Nismo89 · 09-19-11, 03:27 PM

The mulch holds moisture great I have it in my Brazilians cage and I have a 50/50 mix of cypress and coco fiber in my iguanas cage. As long as you spot clean like Rob said theres no need to replace it all

SnakeyJay · 09-19-11, 03:31 PM

How are you measuring your temps.? If its with tht dial thermometer on the back wall then you need to go get a digital probe thermometer. The dials are very unaccurate, also you need to take temps etc from ground level as this is where your snake is.. other than that im no help as i dont have a royal. Good luck.

mattchibi · 09-19-11, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Snakey-Jay-BRB

How are you measuring your temps.? If its with tht dial thermometer on the back wall then you need to go get a digital probe thermometer. The dials are very unaccurate, also you need to take temps etc from ground level as this is where your snake is.. other than that im no help as i dont have a royal. Good luck.

Im using two probe thermometers. I have them hanging and the probe is like 0.5" from the substrate. I think I understand everything completely, except for the temps still..

I am easily getting 90-91 F on top of the basking spot, and 84 F ambient temp on the warmer side. The problem is: the temperature on the cooler side is at 74.. How do I raise the temperature on this side ? Do i need a UTH, guys ? Or is the heat lamp doing the job already ?

I also live in Canada, and as soon as winter comes, temps are gonna drop a fair bit as well. So thats why I thought the UTH would be a good investment.

Thanks for all the help

Nismo89 · 09-19-11, 03:42 PM

The UTH on the warm side with no bulb set on thermostat at 91 F should bring the temp on the cool side up otherwise you could get a space heater and bring the actual room temp up to where you want the cool end to be. I currently have an UTH on the hot side set at 85 F which leaves my ambient at 80 F and my cool end at 75 F. I get my cool end to 75 F by having a space heater connected to a thermostat set at 75 F. I also have a separate reptile room with controlled heat and humidity separate from the rest of the house.

mattchibi · 09-19-11, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nismo89

The UTH on the warm side with no bulb set on thermostat at 91 F should bring the temp on the cool side up otherwise you could get a space heater and bring the actual room temp up to where you want the cool end to be. I currently have an UTH on the hot side set at 85 F which leaves my ambient at 80 F and my cool end at 75 F. I get my cool end to 75 F by having a space heater connected to a thermostat set at 75 F. I also have a separate reptile room with controlled heat and humidity separate from the rest of the house.

I seee, so you dont use a bulb at all. What do you do to mimic the natural light cycle ? Open the windows during the days ?

And as for the UTH, does anyone have any suggestions on a certain model ? And how do you attach a thermostat to it, or do you just use a thermostat to track how hot it is getting?

Lankyrob · 09-19-11, 05:30 PM

I use non light emitting heat bulbs for all my snakes and they get their day night schedule from natural light throught the windows - you dont want direct sunlight into the tank tho!

ANY heater used for animals, in my opiniion should only be used with a thermostat to prevent any risk of oveerheating or underheating the animal.