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Old 01-09-05, 06:08 PM   #16
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Its not the ground temperature you want to measure. 107 throughout the tank would be WAY to hot. But the basking spot is just a small section where it should easily be at 120 F . 107 is not high, these animals come from Australia and can handle very high heats. But before you got and try to raise the temps, make sure you get a very reliable thermometre.
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Old 01-09-05, 06:13 PM   #17
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its pretty reliable i have 2 in the tank, one under the basking spot reads 107,the throughout thetank maybe in the mid 80's.
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Old 01-09-05, 06:17 PM   #18
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young beardies like it HOT, i used to keep a basking spot made of levels, with the top level around 115-119, then the dragon could choose between a few different basking temps. I also provided a solid bridge under hte basking lamp as the warm side hide.

hope this helps, oh, your dragon looks like a nice chubby normal phase.
UVB is essential. it is the tried and true method. I have seen "liquid uvb" and other similar products in pet stores, but I dont put much faith in their claims.

have fun, dragons are a blast!
Adam
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Old 01-09-05, 06:19 PM   #19
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Thanks adam,The little guys only 25g's...gotta let him throw on the pounds wich brings me to my next question: Is obesity a problem with beardies,does it happen often?

So I guess ill be making the basking spot higher,i just gotta make sure the rocks stable and not steep...
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Old 01-10-05, 08:09 PM   #20
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Oh heres an update on the tank,hes a few inches closer to the lamp now,lol.
http://ssnakess.com/photopost/showph...cat=504&page=1
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Old 01-10-05, 08:39 PM   #21
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There ya go, that looks way better

Good job and good luck with him

As for obesity, in youngsters, I dont see it happening.
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Old 01-11-05, 02:23 PM   #22
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Babies and juveniles should have a basking spot between 105 and 115. range is 5 degrees lower for adult.

Also, hiding spots are unnecesary for beardies, In the enclosure picture that I see bartman left there is no hide that I can see but I could be wrong. My beadie (oliver - see other post) got sick after we got himn due to poor husbandry. One of the first pieces of advise I got was to remove the hide to ensure that she had no choice but to stay warm.

With juvies and babies. I have read that a hide is even less necessary or can even be harmful. Crickets have a place to hide being the main reason. Predomantly most people agree that a beardie does not need a hidding place to be secure. They are more social than that. Oliver just turns her back to me. HAHA!!
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Old 01-11-05, 02:26 PM   #23
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that wasn't our poor husbandry I'm talking about by the way. Oliver was a childs toy for a couple months before we got her and at night she stayed in a 10 gallon (she was already 4) with a heat lamp on top. It horifies me to this day that she was kept in that thing.
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Old 01-11-05, 08:40 PM   #24
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Yep no hide In There,The little guy Today Ate 40 Mealies And a Super Worm! Anything i drop in thecage is gone in a matter of seconds,I know mealies arent to healthy but i gutload em really well,i heard supers though are actually pretty good for beardies,anyways in three days it went from 22 grams to 32 grams,even after his poops everyday.
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Old 01-11-05, 09:09 PM   #25
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easy on mealies at that age.
as for the obeisity question... just make sure you have a big enough tank for him/her when it is an adult. more space= more exercise chasing down dinner. keep the diet varies and you shouldnt have any trouble.

nice work on hte set up. I found I was able to be most creative with my dragon enclosures!
keep up the good work

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Old 01-15-05, 01:59 PM   #26
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Ok my plan is to gut load the mealies with the pellets,n dust them will this be good?
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