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01-07-04, 12:53 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Aug-2003
Location: Canada
Age: 55
Posts: 78
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Do's and Dont's to Ball python Keeping
Hi everyone
I and probaly many others who come to this site, who are either
in the process , or might have just gotten their first snakes, are wondering if you all can share your experience on some simple do's and don'ts to snake husbandry. We Know there are many books and caresheets but they dont really give you all the info from a personal point of view.
We all know that what is to be posted is just an opinion so I hope it doesn't cause to much conflict.
Thank you all that participate, I know we can benifit from all the helpful info
Vinny.
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01-07-04, 01:51 PM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: May-2003
Location: Southwestern Ontario
Age: 45
Posts: 1,605
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I've got a couple don'ts:
Don't bring home the snake until you have set up it's enclosure with the proper temperature gradient and humidity, as well as hide boxes and a water dish.
Don't handle the snake for at least a week after you bring it home.
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01-07-04, 04:15 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Jul-2002
Posts: 4,768
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Don't use tape any where in the enclosure.
Don't second guess your self. If you think it might be able to escape, it will.
Cheers,
Trevor
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01-07-04, 04:20 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Jan-2003
Posts: 1,470
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Do not ever put your own personal needs before that of the snakes. If you can't tend to every need, or if something mandatory for their husbandry is in a way bothersome to you, don't get the snake. Again, needs of the animal first, your needs second.
I also second what Daver said.
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01-07-04, 05:33 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Oct-2003
Location: Evansville,In
Age: 59
Posts: 419
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All of the above and ... don't get overly upset when they won't eat .
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01-07-04, 06:33 PM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Jan-2003
Location: B.C.
Posts: 376
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here is a do, enjoy them.
Piers
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01-07-04, 06:52 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Jun-2003
Location: Calgary, AB
Age: 49
Posts: 5,638
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Do get them onto rats or rabbits as soon as possible. When they are 5 feet long, you will thank yourself for it.
Do not handle them often, as this will stress them out, and you won't be able to get them to eat ANYTHING.
__________________
- Ken LePage
http://www.invictusart.com
http://www.invictusexotics.com
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01-07-04, 07:49 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Oct-2003
Location: Indianapolis, Indiana
Posts: 560
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Just make sure you go with captive bred from a reputable breeder.
Get at least a fecal done from a vet.
Be sure you have proper temps: 90 on warm side and 80-85 on cool side. A night time drop in temps is not required, but if they do drop don't let them drop below 75 degrees - 72 at the most. Get a UTH for heat on the warm side set on a thermostat to regulate temps. Put a thermometer on each side to measure the 2 different temps. Measure temp on surface of warm side and near the bottom on the cool side.
Also add a hygrometer to measure humidity. 50-60% is ideal and up to 70% during shed. Be aware that maintaining proper temps and humidity in a tank can be difficult and may require extra work. There are many methods to make it work, but know that it may take some time and patience to find the method that works for you.
Avoid cedar substrate. If you go with a lose substrate feed in a separate container.
Have at least 1 hide on the warm side (over the UTH) and at least one hide on the cool side. Put a water dish in there also. Make sure hides and water dish aren't too big. They like hides that make them feel secure so that when they are in them they can ball up and feel the sides - nice and snug.
Add a branch or two for climbing and so that your BP has something to rub on during shed.
Put the tank in a low traffic area.
Light is not important to your BP - only to you. If you add light so that you can see maintain a proper photoperiod - don't leave the lights on 24/7.
Get your tank set up and get temps and humidity correct before bringing your BP home. Maybe even post a pic for input once it's set up. Don't just throw everything together and expect it to work, the uth may have problems, etc....
Once bought leave it alone and don't handle for 1-2 week s- it will be hard. You want to give it a chance to settle in. Change water and spot clean fecal/urates as needed, thats about it. You can try feeding then.
Don't handle for 2-3 days after feeding or when in shed.
Feed it an appropriate sized meal (as wide as the widest part of its body) every 5-7 days. Try to get eating FT as soon as possible - safer for your snake. Better yet get one already being feed FT and ask to see it eat.
Never feed with your hands, use tongs.
Wash your hands before AND after handling your snake.
It's a personal choice as to what sex you get. I love my little male - hasn't gone of feed or presenting me with any problems. Some do, some don't. It's normal for them to go off feed. Just keep regular weights on them - if they start losing weight see a vet.
Read a ton of caresheets
Ask a bunch of questions
Be ready for a 15 year + commitment.
Enjoy!
__________________
1.0 Ball Python "Aragorn", 1.0 Bredl's Carpet Python "Strider"
1.0 Kenyan Sand Boa "Gimli", 1.0 Saharan Sand Boa "Frodo"
1.0 Mexican Black King "Indigo", 0.1 California King "Gentoo", 1.0 Snow Corn "Chile", 0.1 Okeetee Corn "Amazon"
1.0 Crested Gecko "Willow", 0.1 IJ Blue-Tongued Skink "Phoebe", 1.0 Indonesian Blue-Tongued Skink "Cole"
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01-07-04, 07:58 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Jul-2003
Location: Kansas
Age: 41
Posts: 3,427
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Do: get yourself some kind of temerature controller,and digital theremometer with a probe (some even have a humidity gauge right on it!)
Don't : think that a snake is a sit and cuddle kind of pet, as invictus pointed out, the more you handle it the more stressed it gets.
Don't: push the snake in peoples faces, it scares the crap out of some people and majorly stresses the snake.
Don't: Think that just because they are "big and fat" boids that they can't be fast. They can slither away/strike faster than you could imagine.
Do: make it a habbit to check the locks of the cage on a daily/nightly baisis.
Don't: don't let them go into your local woods if you get bored of them.
Don't: get one just to prove yourself or just becasue it is "Cool" at the time to have a snake.
Don't: feed live feed unless it is a VERY last resort. No matter how cool it looks, if the ball python does not want to eat an adult mouse could easily do severe damage to a large snake that can't get away from a frightened mouse. And a small-large rat could kill a snake.
Don't: get the snake if you can not afford every aspect of it. Vet bill, food bill, heating bill....
Do: set up the enclosure atleast 1-2 weeks before you get the snake so you can make sure the snake has proper temps and humidity before you get it.
Do: Enjoy the wonderful little creature that you have!
__________________
The Mischief:
Neptune, Zion, Enigma,
Mischief~ Hamster
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01-08-04, 01:19 AM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Jul-2003
Location: Miami, FL and New Haven, CT
Age: 40
Posts: 1,084
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do: your research
do: wait at least a week between deciding what type of animal you want and buying the tank. then wait at least another week before putting an animal in that tank. pets should never be an impulse buy
do: set aside an emergency fund that will cover vet bills, transport ot the vet, etc, if your puet should get sick
__________________
1.1 ball pythons (Huxley and Marla)
~"Interestingly enough, the only thing the bowl of petunias thought was, 'Oh no, not again.'" --Douglas Adams~
* Mollie *
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01-08-04, 02:13 AM
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#11
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Super Genius
Join Date: Nov-2002
Location: Southwestern Ontario
Age: 49
Posts: 6,292
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Don't: ever stop learning, or think you know enough. You can never know enough.
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