I got this from
http://www.livefood.co.uk/zpanthercam.htm. I was wondering if it's a good care sheet of not?? It seems to be but I don't want to build a cage and have everything planned out only to find out it's all wrong. I do plan on finding other ones just want something to base the good ones on.
Housing: With adult males able to attain total lengths of 21-24 inches a suitable vivarium would measure 1m x 60cm x 1m (36" x 24" X 36") at only half this size a female would feel perfectly at home in 60cm x 50cm x 70cm (24" x 18" x 30").
The viv should be furnished with branches of various thickness' and arranged in such a way to allow the lizard access to all levels within it's enclosure.
The choice of real or plastic plants is purely one of personal taste though don't overdo it as panther chameleons like open spaces and don't require hiding places to feel secure.
Heating should be supplied by a 60-75 watt spot bulb controlled by a dimmerstat. Heatmats are useless in a chameleon viv. as the idea is to create a vertical temperature gradient rather than the usual horizontal one. With the spot bulb mounted in a top corner - always remember to securely screen it off - it will be possible to set the temperature at approximately 1/3-1/2 the way up from the bottom of the Viv. to 82F. This will allow the animal the chance to bask first thing in the morning and then move down to find it's preferred optimum temperature once it is adequately warmed.
At night the temperature in the viv needs to drop to around 70F without this drop the chameleon will not be able to rest and sleep properly. This can be achieved by turning off all the lighting including the spot bulb as average room temperature tends to fall between 65-72F.
Much is often made of the chameleons need for fresh air leading to enclosures made with large amounts of mesh ventilation. Far more important to panther chameleons is the need for constant high humidity, which must be kept at 80-100%. Do not take this to mean ventilation is not important, but rather that a balance needs to be struck between the two.
Being a diurnal species - active during the day - C. pardalis likes lots of light which is best supplied by one or preferably more full spectrum fluorescent tubes. A day-night period of 10-12 light 12-14 hours darkness is required and is best achieved using a plug in timer. Recent studies on chameleons have shown that their skins reflect rather than absorb UV light therefore the choice of whether or not to use UV emitting tube is down to the individual, and makes the proper use of food supplements absolutely vital.
Diet: Most chameleons will never learn to drink from a water bowl preferring to drink water that has been sprayed onto the cage sides or plants. The need to provide high humidity will mean you'll find yourself misting the viv. heavily twice daily thereby giving your chameleon ample opportunity to drink. Food should be offered once a day to adults (Adult C. pardalis are known to require between 30-50 large crickets a week to maintain physical well being)and as often as three times a day for new-borns and juveniles All food should be dusted with vitamin mineral supplements for young animals but adults only require their food dusting twice a week. Panther Chameleons will eat all the usual insects available; Locusts, crickets, waxworms, moths, tebo worms, flies and giant mealworms. Large adult males will also eat pinkies.
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