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10-17-15, 12:57 AM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Oct-2015
Posts: 8
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Maintaining Hog Island Temps
Hey,
I've recently purchased a Hog Island that just arrived the other day. I had everything I needed set up before hand and was ready to go. Unfortunately I had to make a last minute change on the enclosure and use my backup RUB. Since then I've been having some issues maintaining temps and could use some tips. I'm currently using a ceramic heater (100W) and my basking spot is between 87-85 and the cool end is low 80s to as low as 78. I'm a little concerned because I'd like to hover around that 90 mark. Am I being a little too obsessive with the temps or should what I'm at now be acceptable? I feel like I'm really close to where I need to be but I'm concerned with how much heat I should put on the plastic. I've considered flex watt or an UTH but don't have much experience with them as my main enclosure has always been wood and I found them unreliable. Should I just buy a low watt UTH to bring the temps up or what?
Also this is only temporary I just need to have my homemade wooden enclosure patched up and she'll be in a new home.
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10-17-15, 02:54 AM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Sep-2013
Location: Stockholm
Posts: 31
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Re: Maintaining Hog Island Temps
If it's a small size enclosure, an UTH would work good instead, under the substrate, but if it's a larger size one, I would invest in a higher wattage CHE, (maybe 150-250W). I had the same problem with my wooden enclosure. I had about 87° at the high end, but had a wooden log installed tilting upwards. My boa can now lie on the log, closer to the CHE, (maybe 89-91°).
Otherwise I don't think it's such a noticeable difference and at least you have a high end in the high 80's, which is the important part.
I'm sure he'll be really happy with his enclosure anyhow. Would love to see pics of the hog!
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10-17-15, 06:59 AM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Sep-2013
Location: Stockholm
Posts: 31
Country:
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Re: Maintaining Hog Island Temps
I'm sorry, I thought you meant the custom enclosure. If your issues are regarding your RUB, temporarily the temps are fine. The warm side I think is warm enough temporarily. I'm sorry again for jump-reading your post, but I have dyslexia. You can just ignore the advice above. :/
__________________
1.0 BCI (Caesar)
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10-17-15, 12:55 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Oct-2015
Posts: 8
Country:
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Re: Maintaining Hog Island Temps
Not a problem I appreciate your advice anyhow. I ended up going with my 250W CHE and found a good distance to maintain 91F. So far it seems to be working well I just need to make sure the humidity stays at a good level.
Last edited by Millertime1485; 10-17-15 at 01:10 PM..
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10-18-15, 01:21 AM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Sep-2014
Posts: 1,252
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Re: Maintaining Hog Island Temps
A thick layer of cypress mulch will help maintain humidity even with a CHE, that's what I'm using for our red tail boas now. Working on building larger wooden enclosures with side vents, currently in aquariums with pegboard and screen tops.
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7.6.26 Dominican red mountain boas, 1.1 carpet pythons, 3 ATB, 1.1 climacophora, 1.1 Russian rats, 1.1 prasina, 1.1 speckled kings, 3.3.1 corns, 1.1.1 black rats, 1.1 savu, 1.1 Stimson's, 1 spotted python, 1.1 Boiga nigriceps, 3 Olive house snakes, 1 Sonoran mountain king, 0.1 Sinoloan milk snake, 1.1 Dione rat snake.
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10-18-15, 09:46 PM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Oct-2015
Posts: 8
Country:
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Re: Maintaining Hog Island Temps
I've managed to keep the temps up now with the higher wattage CHE. I've been using Aspen for the moment but I may change in that in the future if I start having any troubles with humidity. As of right now with the water dish under the CHE and a light spray once a day I've had zero problems with humidity which is a relief.
To continue from my original question do you guys think it'd be wise to have something under the CHE (such as slate or something) that would create something warmer on the belly? Originally seemed like a good idea but I'd be concerned if the object got too hot.
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10-19-15, 01:25 AM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Sep-2014
Posts: 1,252
Country:
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Re: Maintaining Hog Island Temps
I put a clay or ceramic cave large enough for my snakes to hide in directly under the CHE's, and set the caves in a bowl of sphagnum moss that I keep wet. Mostly large Cichlid Stones for the smaller to mid-size snakes, but I also use larger "caves" of the same material for the sub-adult DRMB's thata re too big for the Cichlid Stones. The wet moss helps maintain humidity inside the water-porous caves, the larger caves are set on top of plastic hides directly over the heat mats in enclosures where I don't use CHE's. Works out very well, because the snakes have a vertical temp gradient above or below the heat sources, as well as additional hides on the opposite end of the enclosures away from the heat.
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7.6.26 Dominican red mountain boas, 1.1 carpet pythons, 3 ATB, 1.1 climacophora, 1.1 Russian rats, 1.1 prasina, 1.1 speckled kings, 3.3.1 corns, 1.1.1 black rats, 1.1 savu, 1.1 Stimson's, 1 spotted python, 1.1 Boiga nigriceps, 3 Olive house snakes, 1 Sonoran mountain king, 0.1 Sinoloan milk snake, 1.1 Dione rat snake.
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10-19-15, 05:20 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Sep-2013
Location: Stockholm
Posts: 31
Country:
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Re: Maintaining Hog Island Temps
I used to use heat cables for belly heat. But now only using a CHE, I have placed a flat rock on the ground below the CHE. The rock gets somewhat warm and my boa seems to enjoy it.
__________________
1.0 BCI (Caesar)
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10-19-15, 06:44 AM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Sep-2013
Location: Stockholm
Posts: 31
Country:
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Re: Maintaining Hog Island Temps
The best would still probably be an additional UTH, so that the boa gets optimal belly heat, which I've heard they enjoy. When coiled up, the boa can feel the heat rise, as todd before me said.
__________________
1.0 BCI (Caesar)
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