Is this dry skin on my ball python????

andythespider · 10-20-13, 07:41 PM

Big Suze just shed about a week ago, and it was a terrible shed but i'm getting better at keeping her humidity up now. And today I just noticed a few scales on her back that either looks like dry skin or scales that didn't come off during her shed.

Also, i'm having a small feeding issue lol of course. I got her from PetsMart and she hasn't eaten since i've gotten her, it's been about a month and a half since she's eaten. I've tried mice, rats, and she's not eating anything, barely even gives it a second look, she even crawls over top of the food. I've tried feeding her in a plastic tub, and even her terrarium because thats how the guy fed her at PatsMart apparently. NO luck at all

I'm not too worried because i know she'll get hungry enough eventually, but i'm just tired of wasting money on food she doesn't eat.

Some advice would be great!

**Aaron_S** · 10-20-13, 08:41 PM

Looks like missing scales possibly but doesn't look like something to worry about. Just keep an eye on it.

To answer the feeding question can you provide all the details of how you're keeping her and how you handle her currently? Also exactly the method/s you've been using to feed her.

Hurrok · 10-21-13, 08:23 AM

The scales are fine, just a little dry from the bad shed. The next time she sheds they will be normal again, just make sure you keep the humidity up. Spray multiple times a day if you have to

As for feeding, how often are you offering? If you offer to often it can actually stress out your snake and it won't eat. Give us some details so we can help you further.

Terranaut · 10-21-13, 09:38 AM

I assume your snake is in a glass aquarium with a screen top and heat lamp? If so this is 99% of the problem. Even if you mist you will still have spikes of dryness. Better a constant 70% than 90 in the morning 20 in the afternoon then 90 again when you get home back to 20 during the night and so on.

andythespider · 10-21-13, 10:55 AM

Thanks guys about the skin problem! Ya i also mist her once or twice a day too.

Im keeping her in a 20G glass terrarium and handle her daily for at least 5-10 mins.

I usually try feeding her weekly by leaving her in a plastic tub with the rat or mouse and leave her alone for 10-20 mins, then if she didn't eat ill put her in her terrarium with the mouse for another 10-20 mins, THEN if she still hasn't eaten ill dangle the rat in front of her at striking distance. Should I be starting off the feeding session by dangling it at striking distance? Maybe i'm just doing it all in the wrong order...

Terranaut · 10-21-13, 12:09 PM

How do you measure temps and hunidity?
Ok so rule number one when dealing with a chain pet store is....never take advice from a chain pet store. A bad shed indicates low humidity. Your snake requires more humidity (well ball pythons anywat) than you do. It also requires a heat gradiant as well as controlled temps. Have you looked at some of the care sheets on this site ? You will never get it to eat if the environment is wrong. Fix that and then we can help you feed it .

andythespider · 10-21-13, 12:19 PM

I use a thermometer/hygrometer and the basking spot is usually 90F and the humidity is between 40-55 usually, kinda tough to keep it up. She has a heat pad and 75W infared heat lamp, and it gets too cold in her basking spot without both of those things running 24/7.

Terranaut · 10-21-13, 12:23 PM

There is your issue. The low humidity will cause much more than shed issues if left like this. Once again they sell you the snake and all the wrong stuff to take care if it. You should return everything and buy the right stuff. Where in Canada are you? Every single item they sold you is wrong for that snake. I will link some threads on here for cheap tub setups that will be great fir your snake. I am sorry they did this to you but you got to fix it asap. Those idiots have no clue.

SnoopySnake · 10-21-13, 12:28 PM

I personally would wait to handle regularly until the snake has eaten a few times

InsanityApe · 10-21-13, 12:33 PM

I had a similar problem with my ball python the first time I got her, I kept reading to not feed her in her cage cause she might strike at me whenever I'm going to handle her cause she might think I'm food so I started to feed her in a separate tub. At first I tried feeding her live cause that was what the owners of the pet store said they were feeding her inside of her cage. But since she wasn't used to my room she wouldn't eat, I returned the still live mouse and got frozen mice instead, but once again she wouldn't eat, this was several weeks already. So what I did was place the dead mouse in front of her cave entrance. Left her alone for the whole day due to school and a job and when I came back, the mouse was gone.

Terranaut · 10-21-13, 01:00 PM

Fix husbandy first then handling and feeding technique.

**Aaron_S** · 10-21-13, 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by andythespider

I use a thermometer/hygrometer and the basking spot is usually 90F and the humidity is between 40-55 usually, kinda tough to keep it up. She has a heat pad and 75W infared heat lamp, and it gets too cold in her basking spot without both of those things running 24/7.

Yeah you need to cover the screen lid. Heat rises and it's rising right out of the top along with the humidity. An increase of humidity alone can spark feeding responses.

Don't handle her at all (maintenance aside) until she's had a few meals. Don't worry, she'll be fine and won't all of a sudden become aggressive.

I offer all my ball python babies a live meal to start. An older animal like yours I'd go with a rat pup, with it's eyes still closed if possible. Leave it in 20 minutes in the evening or night.

The constant switching of feeding regimes is not allowing the snake to be comfortable enough to take it within 10 - 20 minutes. You're probably checking often during that time too, right? If so, it'll just stress her out more.

Terranaut · 10-21-13, 01:13 PM

This thread has a nice ,cheap, effective ball setup. There is a boa in the tub shown but this will work for you. Now if money isn't an issue and a couple few hundred dollars is ok you could get a great setup with a real snake cage and never worry about it again.

http://www.ssnakess.com/forums/gener...nake-room.html

LadyWraith · 10-21-13, 06:57 PM

Terranaut and Aaron are dead on. Everything will continue to be difficult until you change the environment. That tub setup link is very helpful. Once your snake feels comfortable in it's home, the food drive will kick in and you won't be having these issues anymore.