4ft Boa enclosure design (PVC)

formica · 10-08-13, 02:26 PM

Working on a new design for my hypo hogg boa enclosure, modified a bit from the last one I built. Heres a quick mockup

Adding a heated shelf in this time, and possibly some PVC climbing tubes, I dont think I am going to make this enclosure bioactive, considering the size of a hypo hogg I dont think it will be particularly beneficial...but i'll deciede that later on, if not, I'm going to add some PVC climbing beams

My last one had a door which fitted inside the enclosure walls, on this one the door will rest against the wall and ceiling edge - much as I would like the door to fit inside, its impossible to cut the plastic accurately enough without computer aided machining - and laser cutting PVC is insanely expensive due to the amount of acid produced

This one will have a frosted false ceiling, as opposed to clear polycarbonate twinwall

The front-top beam will be reinforced with aluminium to prevent bowing when stacked

specs:
16mm PVCX (free from Solvents, Plasticizers and heavy metals)
5mm Acrylic viewing door
Heated Shelf (one side, built in heat cord, @35C)
Heated base (one side, @30C)
Built in 6K daylight and Red nightlight LEDs
Suspended false ceiling
Nylon Detachable Hinges
Nylon Wingnut locks
Habistat Digital thermostat(s)

Any thoughts and suggestions welcome!

Waiting for a final quote on materials, but expecting to have it complete before the end of November

Terranaut · 10-08-13, 03:40 PM

I can tell you from having both big boas and having built a similar shapped enclosure you need a taller substrate wall where the hinges are mounted. I built a viv for my boa and only used a 3" tall wall in that spot. In retrospect I should have gone with double that. The amount of substrate that gets into my hinges and between the door and jamb is just wrong. Just my $.02

formica · 10-08-13, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Terranaut

I can tell you from having both big boas and having built a similar shapped enclosure you need a taller substrate wall where the hinges are mounted. I built a viv for my boa and only used a 3" tall wall in that spot. In retrospect I should have gone with double that. The amount of substrate that gets into my hinges and between the door and jamb is just wrong. Just my $.02

fair point

the front panel at the bottom, is attached to another panel directly behind it, currently the same height, it could rise above the hinges, to form a guard, the hinge bolts will be a bit of a pain, but nothing to difficult to deal with...i'll have a think about that, was contemplating an acrylic guard behind the door aswell, in that case the bolts wouldnt be an issue, and the viewing ratio wouldnt be reduced

Terranaut · 10-08-13, 04:12 PM

Also the strip of door between the hinges and where it crests the front wall is a pinch point where substrate will get trapped. Between the door and the wall behind it. Ensuring the bottom of the door is flush with the top of the wall is necessary.

LarryS · 10-08-13, 07:21 PM

Can't wait to see this one get started!

IMO you would be fine with 1/2" pvc (or your metric equiv) and save some cost. The aluminum brace will support the only area of concern. OTOH thicker is certainly stronger.

If you don't have a router I would strongly advise that you invest in one. It opens up a whole new world in plastics fabrication.
You could size the doors with a saw and then edge to final size with the router and a straight edge.
Personally I think your design is very good, I am just suggesting the router based on your comment about getting accurate cuts.
To make repetitive sizes you can build templates out of inexpensive mdf.

Maybe a third door latch, in the center just for good measure. Could a boa exert enough pressure on the center of the door to bend it out opening up an avenue of escape? It looks like the door has a pretty good overlap at the top so maybe not.

Oh, by the way, you have the cage building bug. There is no cure.

formica · 10-09-13, 03:12 AM

thanks for the tips!

I've put in a quote request for the half inch aswell - my concern on the thickness comes from the 0.06mm (0.002inch) bow in my 2ft enclosure, using 10mm, an insignificant bend for this design, but with the inner fitting door, it doesnt open and close as smoothly as I'd like - of course heavier plastic will also cause more movement and more strain on the aluminium. something I'll have a think about!

a router looks something like a jigsaw? the thinner blade certainly would be an improvement over a table saw, although the table saw allows several pieces to be cut at once - more to think about! great idea on the mdf template

the roof is removable, to allow for access to the electronics, and so is the door, so adding another lock wont be an issue - i'm not sure that the acrylic will bend tho, it would require significant force, as the wingnut bolts, the hinges and the structure itself (including the aluminium which the locks would be bolted to) would all have to give - more to think about, I wonder if there are any measurements of the force a boa can generate. The door currently has a 76mm (~3") overlap at the top

haha yeah bug has well and truely set in, also got some designs for new formicariums, had them floating around in my head for several years, but the materials where just not appropriate for them! I cant believe i've put off using plastic for so long...all because I read a few articles around 2005/2006 which dismissed them as dangerous, wish I had bothered to investigate the materials for myself and realized they where talking nonsense!

Terranaut · 10-09-13, 04:49 AM

I just looked at this on my pc. Sorry but on my phone it looks as if the floor is o. The front side above the hinge..you have it right.

LarryS · 10-09-13, 05:10 AM

A router is a rotary tool of just infinite uses. I have lost count of how many I have, and can't tell you how useful they are for working with plastics.

Here is an old picture of a router and guide being used to put a nice straight edge on some pvc. Not only is the edge straight but the finish is smooth and quality.

They can be used on acrylic as well, leaving a nice machined edge.

formica · 10-09-13, 07:55 AM

thanks yeah thats what I thought it was, might hire one out for a weekend and see how I get on with it

unfortunately PVCX isnt available above 10mm in black, major blow, I dont want a white enclosure (only color available above 10mm); I could build an aluminium frame, or double up 2 sheets of 8mm, but both those options detract from the cost benefits of using PVC...hmm some thinking to be done!

terranaut - I did wonder what you ment! all good.

LarryS · 10-09-13, 08:46 AM

I honestly would not have a concern making that cage from 10mm personally.

Your design with the front lip at the top and the alumin brace should give all the strength you need as long as you are mindful of what you place on top of the cage.

Here is a photo of a Boaphile cage single door 4' long. I think, not sure though, that he uses an aluminum brace also. These cages are only 1/4" PVC!

formica · 10-09-13, 10:20 AM

I think you may be right, especially as I have now changed the design, some movement is acceptable - ideally I want to be able to stack them 3 high

got several quotes back, out of 12 suppliers, not a single one stocks PVCX above 10mm, even in white, so i'm going to go with the 10mm + aluminium, and cross my fingers!

I think boaphile use a pvc sheet which has a stiff outer laminate? could be wrong but I think i read that somewhere, or perhaps it was a diffrent brand

LarryS · 10-09-13, 11:56 AM

If the 3 stack of cages are all the same width, then you will be fine. Only problem would be a heavy animal or substrate along the front, and the aluminum brace should take care of that.

Boaphile uses standard pvcx, not sure of the brand though. We built a cage to match a wall of Boaphile cages at my friends house and the pvc matched perfectly. We also converted two of his pedestal bases into cages by routing out the door holes and making acrylic doors to match. All was standard 1/4" pvcx material.

Jim Smith · 10-16-13, 03:41 PM

In talking with Ed from Proline cages, he mentioned a formula that he uses to determine how "deep" the top support piece of a cage must be based on the length of the cage to prevent warping. I believe he said you need 1 inch of depth of each foot of length. I ordered two of his Carpet Python cages which arrived the same day I left for a business trip so I can't check this dimension, but I will when I get home tomorrow if you're interested. Using this ratio, if your cage is going to be 4 feet long, then this piece should be four inches tall by four feet in length to prevent warping. Just a thought...

Jim Smith

formica · 10-17-13, 01:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Smith

In talking with Ed from Proline cages, he mentioned a formula that he uses to determine how "deep" the top support piece of a cage must be based on the length of the cage to prevent warping. I believe he said you need 1 inch of depth of each foot of length. I ordered two of his Carpet Python cages which arrived the same day I left for a business trip so I can't check this dimension, but I will when I get home tomorrow if you're interested. Using this ratio, if your cage is going to be 4 feet long, then this piece should be four inches tall by four feet in length to prevent warping. Just a thought...

Jim Smith

interesting thanks