Worries - Page 2

minaa · 03-25-12, 02:08 PM

No, I can put one on the list, though.

Gungirl · 03-25-12, 02:16 PM

Heat mats can get WAY to hot and burn your snake. They NEED to be regulated by a thermostat.

minaa · 03-25-12, 02:48 PM

I understand the concern. This heat mat has never (and I've checked), ever gotten that hot.

Gungirl · 03-25-12, 02:49 PM

how are you checking the temp on it?

shaunyboy · 03-25-12, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by minaa

I understand the concern. This heat mat has never (and I've checked), ever gotten that hot.

un thermostated heat mats can over heat to the point of going on fire and are very hazardous

read the post by MYKEE his information to you was spot on pal

cheers shaun

theapexgerman · 03-25-12, 03:00 PM

You could always go to like an hardwear store and buy and lamp dimmer and use that to control your heat mat temp with some trial an error you'll get it spot on and they got many styles to chose from what I use

minaa · 03-25-12, 06:18 PM

The lamp dimmer is a great idea. Thanks!

Gungirl, I've mentioned I've had to do it by touch, as my little petsmart dial thermometer isn't reliable according to these forums.

Gungirl · 03-25-12, 06:58 PM

Your touch means nothing though.. to you 100 F doesn't feel warm at all you need to get an temp gun.

minaa · 03-25-12, 06:59 PM

As I've said, I will when I get money this week. Can't really speed up that process.

Ikester1981 · 03-25-12, 07:25 PM

hello minaa. I am of the carpet persuasion but I will help share what I know. First of all. do not let all the yelling of force feeding get to you. you were simply doing what you felt was the best for your baby. to say NEVER force feed would be an overstatement IME. however, this is an ABSOLUTELY LAST RESORT!!!! In extreme cases such as not eating for 6-7weeks or more (excluding matting season). OR rapid weight loss. Every other method of feeding i.e braining, chicken broth down sizing prey ect... also yes the "husbandry". make sure you have backing on 3 FULL sides of your tank as well as a proper size hide. Your snake should feel snug and comfortable. a home made hide might help made of plywood and 2x2's. If you want better instructions on making them I would be happy to let you know. consider a repti fogger for shedding uses. amazon has them bout 50 bucks with shipping. as far as temp/humid. the petco thermos are fine. try putting them where you want to know said element such as right above the hide to know basking temps. providing an environment for your snake doesn't have to be as rigid as a catholic school nun, its not like this in the wild. so long as you have a close ball park you should be fine. If the bp pros say 3 weeks is fine then it should be. good bowel movements should be observed as well. If you only have 1 hide for now keep it on the "hot" end as a cold snake will not eat. a home made hide can cover your entire tank length. making them ideal IMO. This is your first snake and will be a learning experience. sometimes it may sound or be cruel but such is life. We learn best by doing. If ever you are afraid for your snakes life!?! find the best herp vet in your area and get an appointment asap. good luck and let us know how it goes!!

Ikester1981 · 03-25-12, 07:34 PM

Oh. I just saw that your snake prefers a "clean" food item. some snakes are just wired that way. maybe try washing your prey before feeding??? just an idea.

minaa · 03-26-12, 12:48 AM

Hey Ikester1981, thank you for the vote of support. :] I never heard of "clean" food items, I'll definitely try giving the mice a good rinse the next time I feed her (I'm aiming for 10 days/two weeks, or whenever she starts looking around for food). I appreciate what you say about the dial thermometers, but I don't trust them after the amount of reading I've done independently. Getting a humidor thermometer/humidity gauge is precise and cheap, so, why not?

The only thing I've missed is the thermostat, and getting a temp gun+lamp dimmer should give me enough time to figure some more things out (cost effectiveness matters most to me right now, provided I'm giving the snake good care).

Past that, people say what they want to say. I'm an adult, I can choose to ignore it.

**millertime89** · 03-26-12, 01:02 AM

are you SURE its a she?
is it possible she is in fact an underfed male in the middle of breeding season and just went off feed in his own special way?

edit: sorry if that was covered, I'm tired so I just skimmed the thread.

minaa · 03-26-12, 01:18 AM

This is a great question.

I know tail length and spur size doesn't mean much with ball pythons.

I had a friend who is a protege of a local BP breeder sex her, and she attempted it several times without any indication of hemipenes. So, we figured she is a she.

She was born in late summer last year, so I believe she's still in range for her size, albeit a little small. I'd have to get a scale to tell for sure.

shaunyboy · 03-26-12, 01:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ikester1981

to say NEVER force feed would be an overstatement IME. however, this is an ABSOLUTELY LAST RESORT!!!! In extreme cases such as not eating for 6-7weeks or more

a snake not eating for 6 or 7 weeks is NOT extreme mate (not being cheeky)

the ONLY time imo force feeding should be used,is if a snakes is losing enough wieght as to effect its health

i've had a carpet hatchlings NOT eat for 10 months with no ill effect

also the snake has been eating every 3 weeks,as said take MYKEE'S advice and correct your husbandry.this will improove the snakes shed and let you know if it will eat more

some snakes just don't eat all that often.its all down to husbandry and the individual snake

cheers shaun