custom cage problem - Page 5

Chu'Wuti · 01-02-09, 07:28 AM

A toilet paper roll won't do very long at all. If you can get a plastic container just a little bigger than your snake when he's coiled up in a ball--say about as big around as your two hands together--you can cut a hole in the lip big enough for the snake's body to slide through. You can use superglue or epoxy to cover the container with sphagnum moss or with coir (coconut husk). Then turn it upside down in the enclosure. Your snake will do the rest.

You can find lots of photos of hides online, and you may be able to find instructions for making a hide on this forum--try searching for hides. I'll go look for a minute and see what I can find.

Chu'Wuti · 01-02-09, 07:33 AM

Here are some instructions I copied from another forum:

The materials you will need are:

2 appropriately sized plastic bowls w/lids (I used Country Crock margerine tubs)

1 can of GS (Great Stuff) spray foam

1 tube of silicone (I used GE type II in black)

peat moss, coco fiber, or sand

sharp knife or craft blade

permanent marker

masking tape or painters tape

wax paper

gloves

an open area to put it all together (a place where the fumes will not accumulate and you wont ruin anything with GS or silicone)

To get started, you will need to get an idea of what size bowl you will need. The bowl should be large enough around for your BP to touch the sides of the bowl all the way around when coiled. They feel the most secure that way.

After you have the properly sized bowl, you need to determine how tall the bowl should be. This should be relative to the thickness of the snakes body, and be about twice as tall as it is thick. Mark around the outside of the bowl at the proper height with the permanent marker, measuring from the bottom of the bowl to the top of the bowl (you will be removing plastic from the top, where the lid goes). Use the knife or scissors to cut off the top of the bowl. Be very careful to cut straight. If you want to be able to use the hide as a moist hide, set the top of the bowl aside for now (you will also want to retain the lid for this purpose). Next, you will cut the opening for the snake to go in and out of the hide. To determine the size of the hole, you need to know the circumference of your snake at the widest point (does not have to be 100% accurate). You will want to cut the entrance hole a little larger around than that. IMO (in my opinion), the best place to cut the entrance hole is in the top outside edge of the hide. The bottom of the bowl will be the top of the hide, so you will need to mark the opening on the corner created by the side of the bowl turning into the bottom of the bowl. It is a little difficult to get a 100% circular opening right there, but do the best that you can. Now you will need to use the craft blade or knife to carefully cut the entrance hole. It makes it easier if you cut an X in the middle of the hole, then cut down to the line you marked from each arm of the X. Then you cut off each triangle you have created and then carefully cut out the rounded edge. It is very easy to make a mistake here, so if you don't have extra bowls on hand, be very, very careful. Now that you have the entrance cut and the bowl is the proper hieght, if you are going to use the hide as a moist hide in the future, you will need to take the ring left from cutting off the top of the bowl, and slide it down around the bowl (what was the bottom of the bowl is now the top) with the part that the lid attaches to on the bottom. Use the masking tape to secure the ring to the bowl. Repeat on the second bowl. Before covering with GS, put the lid on the bowls (around the ring that is now the bottom of the hide).

Now the fun part, covering the bowl to make it look like a burrow. If you have never used it before, carefully read the instructions on how to use the GS. I find it easier to work with if you cut the straw in half, IMO, it makes it easier to control the flow if the GS, although you may need to practice for a little bit to get used to how it comes out.

***If you need to practice, put on your gloves and then spray some on a piece of wax paper and make the shape of a rock, that way you aren't wasting it, as you can cover the fake rock and use it later. Lay down a sheet of wax paper for each hide, large enough to leve plenty of space around the outside of the bowl. ***

If you haven't done it already, put on your gloves. Now with one hand, hold the top of the hide (what used to be the bottom of the bowl) down with one finger, and begin to spray the GS around the outside edge of the hide. You want to go slowly and travel all the way around the hide and then begin to overlap and travel up the side of the hide, coiling around until you get to the top. At this point you shouldn't have to hold the hide down anymore for it to stay still (don't bump it though), and you can spray the GS on the top of the hide. Just make sure you avoid getting any GS inside the entrance hole. Now leave it to cure for however long it says on the can. After allowing it to cure, go check and see if it is the relative shape you want on the outside. If it is to your liking (or you can make it the way you want by just carving it), let it sit for a few more hours and then carve it to the shape you want (peel the wax paper from the bottom and remove the lid before carving). If not, then add more GS around the hide until it is the shape you want. (Shake the can of GS longer than it says on the can after you have used it once, it despenses better that way.) If you add a second layer, let it cure another 24 hrs before carving or covering.

Now that your GS is cured and you have it carved to the shape you want, it is time to cover it so that it looks more natural. Put on your gloves. Starting at the top of the hide, smear silicone in small areas and then press the peat moss, coco fiber, or sand into the silicone until no more will stick. Gently dump it off and repeat until you have the entire outside covered. Then dump enough peat moss, coco fiber, or sand over the hide to cover it and gently press down. I have found that this helps to eliminate bare spots. Repeat on the second hide. Leave the hides alone for 24 hrs. and then gently vacuum the hide to remove any loose particles. Let cure for another 24 hrs (or until you cannot smell the silicone anymore, whichever is longer) before introducing the hide into the enclosure.

When making the introduction, it is important to not just dump them in and remove the old hides. If you currently have two hides in the tank, remove the old one that is used less often and replace with one of the new hides. After 24hrs or so, check to see if your snake is IN the new hide, if not, switch the sides that the hides are on (if the new hide is on the cool side and the old one on the warm, just switch them around). IMO, you should leave in one of the old hides until the snake is using the new one, at which point you can replace the old one that is left in the cage with the other new one. This allows the snake time to get used to something new being in the enclosure without too much stress. I am also of the opinion that the entrance to the hide should be placed facing AWAY from the front of the tank, allowing the snake to feel more secure. If and when you decide to use one of the hides as a moist hide, simply place the lid on the bottom of the hide and add some damp sphagnum moss. This way you don't have to clutter the cage with an extra hide at shedding time that the snake may or may not use.

If you PM me, I can give you the link for the source of the above info.

phil_7870 · 01-02-09, 10:09 AM

i have three old plastic containers in with him and i covered them in apen beding and he wont use them .so i put in the toilet paper rolls and he spends all day in them .

Smilts · 01-02-09, 03:01 PM

They will try to find a hide most of the time that they can feel on all sides when coiled, but will out grow those rolls fast. I prefer half logs, and it seems my snakes prefer tite hides that have multiple exits.

phil_7870 · 01-03-09, 01:03 PM

by the way the cage at the start is still smelling it didnt go away at all. i should notice a difference shouldnt i

citysnakes · 01-03-09, 06:13 PM

phil, are you housing a baby ball python inside that big custom enclosure that you built or are you housing it in the 20 gallon tank that you have?

phil_7870 · 01-04-09, 08:47 AM

no i have it in the 20 gallon

phil_7870 · 01-04-09, 06:47 PM

he wouldnt eat 2 day either .im not worried but i just want to no am i doin things right.i feed f/t so i let the defrost and then i put them in a little plastic bad in hot water but not to hot as once i cooked a mouse and had to throw it out but then i offer it to him and nothing the within a few minites its cold so i warm it again .but still no sign of him eating so i left it in with him .its a fuzzy by the way .am i doin it rite

Chu'Wuti · 01-05-09, 05:07 PM

Phil, just let him hang out without bothering him for a week. He's still kinda freaked out by the move & new environment and needs more adjustment time. Don't handle him or even try to feed him for the next week. He'll be OK.

Check all your temps & humidity a couple of times a day for several days to see whether it's staying warm enough in the BP's enclosure--even at night.

Then thaw out the fuzzy in a plastic bag in warm water until it's completely thawed out. When it's completely thawed out, use hotter water to warm it thoroughly and heat the head with hot water. Then use a feeding tongs or hemostat (Aaron can explain this better than I can) to hold the fuzzy by a back leg & wiggle it gently in front of the snake to attract his attention.

jimbousmc · 02-04-09, 07:55 AM

ball pythons are a great beginner snake and the size difference from a ball python compared to most boa is about half a ball will only grow to max of 6 feet and that is largr where as a boa you are looking at 10 or 11 feet so the needs of the snake are will differ you need to look into what snake you will buy and then look into the specific needs that snake will need. also yes you can leave the heat on that new enviorment you built it will help dry anything you may have put on it out but please let it air out a couple weeks to make sure any toxic fumes are gone and make sure you thoroughly clean the enviornment befor you put your snake in it as there may be residues left behind

Chu'Wuti · 02-04-09, 11:03 AM

Hey, Jim, this thread is kind of old; Phil bought a BP and is keeping it in a 20-gal while the one he built is outgassing. But it would be nice to get an update on how things are going.

Phil, you around? How's your snake?

phil_7870 · 02-06-09, 04:01 PM

sorry no up dates the smell is still in the cage tryed living heat on and listerine .my ball python is mad looking for food now i was just wondering if im feeding it the right size but thats a different theard thanks for the help

siz · 02-07-09, 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phil_7870

smell is still in the cage tryed living heat on and listerine

..Did I read that right? Listerine? Why?

phil_7870 · 02-07-09, 12:18 PM

yeah it is supposed to be a disinfectent

Chu'Wuti · 02-07-09, 03:27 PM

You don't need a disinfectant to eradicate the smell from your building materials. Disinfectants kill bacteria & some viruses (though viruses are really hard to kill).

I don't know why your enclosure still smells. Have you put it outside in the sun? Maybe that would help. I'm trying to recall what building materials you used; will go back & reread . . .