My second attempt at a snake rack - Page 2

Stockwell · 08-02-03, 10:19 PM

Looks pretty good Trev. A coat of stain and and some varathane and they should last years.
It's not that much different from my design, but I use 1X3 pine instead of 2X4's so its lighter. I
put my trays in length wise side by side, females on the right and males on the left, so each palete contains a pair of snakes.
These are the Zellers "Truly" brand under bed trays. They are bigger and cheaper than Rubbermaids and more shallow, so you can stack more in a rack(snakes aren't tall). I get 9 layers
in a 5 foot rack, for 18 charges per unit.. I keep everything from rosies to Hondurans in these.
In cases were I need to hold the moisture in, I simply slide a platic desk blotter sheet over the screen. I do the same when I use a tray for and egg laying sight.. Just swap trays with a moss filled one and top it off with plastic. works like a charm

BoidKeeper · 08-02-03, 10:51 PM

I love it Roy. As a matter of fact I've been eyeing that desing for some time now. A couple of things I'm not sure about though is how you joined the two pieces of 1x3 together to forum the joint at the corner. Also how did you make the rails?
Thanks,
Trevor

Stockwell · 08-02-03, 11:21 PM

The one by three frames are simply butt jointed, clamped and glued with Lepages wood glue. I use bar clamps, one on each side to hold them together while they set. You could use long counter sunk screws if you wanted.
I then stain and varathane the frames and staple the door screening on before putting the T bar rails on. The Rails are simply two different pieces of moulding or lattice it's called. One sets the gap so its just slightly wider than the lip, then ther other piece is wider and is screwed into the center of the spacer, and it provides the actual support for the tray lips.
Both the "T bar" pieces are stock items at home depot and Building Box. I don't custom make them.

Stockwell · 08-03-03, 12:21 AM

Here's a pic showing the bottom of the pallets and then the completed unit with 9 pallets holding 18 charges. I use wood screws to secure the pallets to the sides, similar to how yours looks.
I don't support the lip at the back, there is simply a back stop, to keep the tray from going too far

above the completed unit which is 5 feet high by 3 feet wide by 2 feet deep. Holds 18 snakes

BoidKeeper · 08-03-03, 09:44 AM

Awsome! Thanks Uncle Roy, I'll let you know when it's done. I better get it done soon I'm trying to get ready for some more kenyans and rosy boas don't you know.
Cheers,
Trevor

Stockwell · 08-03-03, 09:59 AM

For those who asked , I heat my entire room, but use strips of 3 inch Flexwatt across the back of pallets where I have gravid female Boids above. I simply use a staple gun to attach a piece across the the top of the one by three frame of the section below the tray holding the gravid female.
Heat rises and provides the necessary warm spot on the bottom of the tray above. I use a dimmer for adjustment.

vanderkm · 08-03-03, 10:07 AM

This is excellent - I was looking for pics of your design but couldn't find them. Very much along the lines of what I want for my corns, and great to know I can just buy those T bar strips instead of having to make something similar. I like the water bowls - looks like PVC pipe cut high enough to sit a deli tub in and high enough so that it can't tip over. Will have to get working on one of these this weekend,

thanks to both of you for the ideas - an alternate to the heavy melamine,

mary v.

BoidKeeper · 08-03-03, 10:08 AM

Oh and Roy about the finishing. I had said earlier that I was going to prime and paint. You've menthiond stain and varnish. The only reason I was going to prime and paint is because I'm also doing some home renovations and I have some extra paint and primer. Why do you prefer stain and varnish over paint?
Thanks again,
Trevor

Jeff_Favelle · 08-03-03, 02:39 PM

Excellent pictures you guys! Holy. I think we should all thank you for sharing. Not many people would take the time to do that.

Great stuff!

Stockwell · 08-04-03, 02:30 AM

Trev, paint is fine. I just like the natural wood look..All my racks are done the same way. Nothing wrong with using your home decor paint though, especially since the snakes wont be touching the paint.
Mary, I hate melamine. Lots of young herpers love it, but they haven't moved yet! LOL
The stuff weighs a bloody ton, and chips easily and dulls saw blades. Since it is particle board, it also emits formaldehyde gas.
Just try to move one of those type of racks..
Maybe when you're in your 20's! LOL
I'll take pine & screen racks and plywood cages any day!

I use the John Hollister technique for water bowls.
And yes, they are 4 inch PVC pipe couplers, available (without cutting any pipe) at Home Depot or Canadian Tire. You simply put a 12 or 16 oz deli container in, and when it's dirty throw it out. I don't wash water bowls.. just use em till they're dirty then toss them. I buy them by the thousand anyway for selling baby snakes in.
Time is money!

Jeff_Favelle · 08-04-03, 03:22 AM

That's funny how techniques evlove eh Roy? I've been using the PVC piping method for quite some time now too, but I never knew anyone else did! Ha ha, I thought I made it up! LOL!

Cheaper than those damn Hagan ceramic bowls that Patterson tried to get me to use. Maybe when I hatch out some Diamonds I'll be able to afford them, LOL!!!

Stockwell · 08-04-03, 09:42 AM

Right you are Jeff! I just switched over this year after a tip from an American buddy. He pointed me
to John Hollisters web page. He's listed on KS
It looked and sounded great to me...I'm now sold on it, but I still use little bowls for neonates, but I use little ceramic Ramakin bowls, the white ones.
My tip is buy these from the dollar store(Dollarama) they are only 2 for a buck, compared to 5 bucks each at department stores.
For baby snakes waiting to be sold, I use little
plastic pipe caps, as water bowls. They are cheap and made by Niagara plastics. They are designed to protect the threads on pipes..They come in a million sizes and colors.
I bought a box of 500 a couple years back.

BoidKeeper · 08-04-03, 10:43 AM

I've also seen the pipe thing in my Dr. Seaward video. I'm wondering if the pipe is glued or something to the tub? What I've been using is a square plastice food storage container from the dollar store. The work well I very rarely get any spills. I guess it's because they have a square bottom they must be inately more stable. Does the pipe give that much of an advatage or do you just use it because of the style of deli cup water bowl you guys are using?
Thanks,
Trevor

Jeff_Favelle · 08-04-03, 02:45 PM

I just use a regular drywall screw to attach the pipe Trev. Takes 10 seconds and viola! Done.

Roy, those pipe ends DO sound like a good idea. Pipe ends also come in a million different sizes too! I'll have to look into it.

Emily-Fisher · 08-04-03, 02:50 PM

It is gorgeous, Trevor!! two of my enclosures take up that much space!! I can't wait to see it when it is finished. Just a suggestion but I don't think that you should paint it... you should stain it with wood stain and then gloss it. Gee... I wish that someone in my family knew how to nail two blocks together