Shes here!!

OSMDEATHOWNER · 01-24-12, 06:20 PM

So I got my newest friend, shes about two and a half years and very active. She's feeding on live but I'm wondering if I should switch her to f/t . Also I'm Tryna get this uth on before the nite really begin and I can't really find out how to do it. She looks very healthy tho and ill have pics up as soon as I can find out how to upload en off ma phone. Another thing is ma hot side is at like 98. is dat tooo high? Ma low dude id 80 anda humidity id at like 34% lemme kno stuff people

Swany · 01-24-12, 06:27 PM

Congrats on the new arrival. I'll let someone with experience fill you in, but your hotspot's too hot. it should be about 90f

alessia55 · 01-24-12, 06:27 PM

Congrats on your new scaly friend! We're looking forward to seeing photos whenever you can post them.

1. Yes- switch her over to f/t as soon as you can. Feeding f/t is safer for your snake, since a live mouse can cause harm to your snake (scratching, fighting back, etc). Give her at least 7-10 days without bothering her at all (unless to change her water dish or spot clean) to give her time to settle in and get used to new sights, smells, and surroundings. After those 7-10 days, offer her a f/t rat appropriate for her size. Warm it up really well. Use tongs and make the f/t rat "dance" to appear like a live rat to entice her feeding response. Hopefully she switches over without much fuss. If she misses this first feeding, don't worry. She might just need more time to adjust to her new home.
2. Your humidity is WAY too low. You need to have humidity at 60% at the least, and up to 80% when she's in shed. Ball pythons need good humidity levels to avoid respiratory infections and bad sheds.
3. Your hot side is too hot. You should have the hot side be closer to 90F, and the cooler side around 80-85F. How are you heating the enclosure? Is it an under tank heating pad? If so, you MUST have it on a thermostat. The thermostat will measure and maintain the temperature of the heat pad at a desirable temperature (without a thermostat, most heat pads can easily go up to 130F or more, and this can burn your snake's belly).

Try to get us photos of your set up and we'll try to help you out where it's necessary. We want to make sure you have the right tools to keep your new friend happy and healthy. Good luck! Keep us posted and don't hesitate to ask any more questions

. The ball python section of this forum also has a lot of helpful threads with vast amounts of information.

beardeds4life · 01-25-12, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alessia55

Congrats on your new scaly friend! We're looking forward to seeing photos whenever you can post them.

1. Yes- switch her over to f/t as soon as you can. Feeding f/t is safer for your snake, since a live mouse can cause harm to your snake (scratching, fighting back, etc). Give her at least 7-10 days without bothering her at all (unless to change her water dish or spot clean) to give her time to settle in and get used to new sights, smells, and surroundings. After those 7-10 days, offer her a f/t rat appropriate for her size. Warm it up really well. Use tongs and make the f/t rat "dance" to appear like a live rat to entice her feeding response. Hopefully she switches over without much fuss. If she misses this first feeding, don't worry. She might just need more time to adjust to her new home.
2. Your humidity is WAY too low. You need to have humidity at 60% at the least, and up to 80% when she's in shed. Ball pythons need good humidity levels to avoid respiratory infections and bad sheds.
3. Your hot side is too hot. You should have the hot side be closer to 90F, and the cooler side around 80-85F. How are you heating the enclosure? Is it an under tank heating pad? If so, you MUST have it on a thermostat. The thermostat will measure and maintain the temperature of the heat pad at a desirable temperature (without a thermostat, most heat pads can easily go up to 130F or more, and this can burn your snake's belly).

Try to get us photos of your set up and we'll try to help you out where it's necessary. We want to make sure you have the right tools to keep your new friend happy and healthy. Good luck! Keep us posted and don't hesitate to ask any more questions

. The ball python section of this forum also has a lot of helpful threads with vast amounts of information.

Some heat pads get that hot and only flex watt ones

Hillsberry · 01-24-12, 06:27 PM

I would switch her to f/t, one it's easier for you and also you won't have to worry about the snake getting injured during feeding. 98 is a little to hot. Basking temperature should be about 90, ambient temperature should be about 80, the cool side should be about 75. The humidity should be more like 50%. Can't wait to see pictures!

theapexgerman · 01-24-12, 06:56 PM

yea f/t is best way to go but i have to feed 2 of my snake's live only when your feeding live always watch over the snake never leave it alone

OSMDEATHOWNER · 01-24-12, 08:16 PM

Thanks every one, I'm working on fixing everything. I got a 100 watt basking bulb emitting dat heat in a 40 breeder, should I get less wattage. And I taped the uth to the tank by the corners. That's on and working now too. Another thing, is live dat bad cuz I would love a snake to feel is natural hunting way or should I disregard that and jus go f/t?

alessia55 · 01-24-12, 08:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OSMDEATHOWNER

Thanks every one, I'm working on fixing everything. I got a 100 watt basking bulb emitting dat heat in a 40 breeder, should I get less wattage. And I taped the uth to the tank by the corners. That's on and working now too. Another thing, is live dat bad cuz I would love a snake to feel is natural hunting way or should I disregard that and jus go f/t?

Your snake will still get the feeling of "hunting," even if it's f/t, and f/t is SAFER (which is what's most important here). I have a video of my baby ball python Pika eating a f/t rat and he definitely "hunts" it and "kills" it. I'll upload the video once I figure out how to.
Show us a photo of your enclosure and how you have it set up- this is probably the best way for us to tell you if you're doing it right.

KORBIN5895 · 01-24-12, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OSMDEATHOWNER

Thanks every one, I'm working on fixing everything. I got a 100 watt basking bulb emitting dat heat in a 40 breeder, should I get less wattage. And I taped the uth to the tank by the corners. That's on and working now too. Another thing, is live dat bad cuz I would love a snake to feel is natural hunting way or should I disregard that and jus go f/t?

Explain to me how you would consider a 3.5 foot snake in a 4foot long tank hunting? Sorry but its not. Also I have been looking for a sunglow female boa. The usually sell around 1500-2000 dollars for a breeding female. I found one for 600. Want to know why? A rat chewed one of its eyes out. No matter how close you watch it could lose an eye faster than you can blink.

mattchibi · 01-24-12, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theapexgerman

ye it can but like i said it's not a big deal long as your watching it and F/T lose it's nutrition value after a while nothing happen to none of my snake's or even my breeder snakes he feed's live to all of hiss snake

Your previous reply was correct. Live prey is safe as long as you are always supervising & using tongs to prevent biting and scratching. I know TONS of breeders who feed only live prey, and they have over 200 ball pythons. I dont really want to get into an argument about f/t vs live, I just wanted to say that both are completely safe and viable ways to feed your beloved snakes as long as its done CORRECTLY, both have their ups and downs. As for f/t losing its nutritional value.. do steaks in the freezer lose nutritional value if you leave them in too long? (The answer is no)

Quote:

Originally Posted by KORBIN5895

Explain to me how you would consider a 3.5 foot snake in a 4foot long tank hunting? Sorry but its not. Also I have been looking for a sunglow female boa. The usually sell around 1500-2000 dollars for a breeding female. I found one for 600. Want to know why? A rat chewed one of its eyes out. No matter how close you watch it could lose an eye faster than you can blink.

Probably due to an ignorant owner. Like I said already before, live and f/t both have their ups and downs. Responsible pet ownership is key here. Even f/t rats can cause problems with ball pythons due to improper thawing. I have to say though, I DO prefer feeding f/t to my own snakes, but it should not be misconcieved that feeding live is *ALWAYS* dangerous.

Quote:

Originally Posted by OSMDEATHOWNER

Thanks every one, I'm working on fixing everything. I got a 100 watt basking bulb emitting dat heat in a 40 breeder, should I get less wattage. And I taped the uth to the tank by the corners. That's on and working now too. Another thing, is live dat bad cuz I would love a snake to feel is natural hunting way or should I disregard that and jus go f/t?

Send me a PM if you want an indepth care sheet for ball pythons.

theapexgerman · 01-24-12, 08:21 PM

most people say live bad but long as your watching your snake eat it it shouldn't be a problem feeding live to my bull and mountain king for over 3 year's no problem's like i said just wtch your snake with the mouse round

Swany · 01-24-12, 08:22 PM

F/t. Live prey can harm your snake man

theapexgerman · 01-24-12, 08:24 PM

ye it can but like i said it's not a big deal long as your watching it and F/T lose it's nutrition value after a while nothing happen to none of my snake's or even my breeder snakes he feed's live to all of hiss snake

theapexgerman · 01-24-12, 08:57 PM

yes it happens but not often guess I been lucky for over 3 years and my breeder been lucky for like 9 years

alessia55 · 01-24-12, 08:57 PM

Personally I'd go the f/t route because it eliminates any danger completely. I'd just rather not take any risks. If anything were to happen to my baby Pika because I blinked and the live rat hurt it, I'd never forgive myself. Switch to f/t and you'll never have to worry about that sort of stuff. That's my 2 cents.