Malagasy Giant Hognose

[Lasher]

Hey guys. I need your help. My little guy has stopped eating. He is about 6-8 months old and has not eaten in 6 weeks. Previously, he was taking 2-3 small pinkys per week without exception. Husbandry: 85 degrees ambient, 90 on the hot side. Enclosure is 2.5' X 2.5' X 10". Feeding methods tried: Pinkys day and night, chicks, quail, geckos. Will try split-brained tonight. REALLY don't want to forcefeed, it is so stressful. Thanks for the help.

[SnakeFetish]

Don't hognoses go off feed sometimes because they hibernate?

[Lasher]

Not sure. I have been reading a great caresheet on hognose.com and it doesn't mention it. I'll do more research.

[corrado]

maby your snake have parasite do a poop test

Sebas

[uog11]

they are really easy to keep. i think they need a little hotter than that, but check the hognose.com care sheets. i think 2.5x2.5 might be a little big for a snake that is only eating pinkies.

aaron

[Vanan]

If it's been eating all this time, and stopped and hasn't started losing weight, I wouldn't fret it. Unless there's some obvious reason (husbandry problems, dehydration, wounds, cut to the head! ) I would just wait it out a couple weeks and then try again. Sometimes attempting to feed a snake which isn't hungry is enough stress to complicate matters.

[Ontario_herper]

I wouldn't go any warmer. I keep my paiar in the low 80's - they do fine. As Vanan said, if the snake is not losing weight don't worry... it's just saving you a bit of money on mice!

[uog11]

hognose.com does say they can take the temps of mid 90's. i keep my pair around 90 though. not to argue

[Vanan]

I don't see why they should be kept so warm. Don't know of any colubrid which needs to be kept so warm. Sometimes just cos the climate of the country states such a high temp doesn't mean the snakes allow themselves to be exposed to those temps.

[Removed_2815]

From Hognose.com:

Temperature requirements for the Madagascan Hognose range from a daytime temperature of the mid 80’s to the mid 90’s , and a nighttime temperature of the mid to high 70’s. A basking light in one area of the enclosure should be provided to permit the snake to warm itself at least to the mid 90’s.

To me this suggests that, like any typical snake setup, there should be daytime temperature extremes on either end of the cage: mid 80's on the cooler side, mid 90's on the warmer side. A constant 90 throughout is a bad idea, IMHO.
Best,
Ryan

[Ontario_herper]

Regardless... I have a feeling that you hog's feeding problems are not related to temperature. These snakes are quite common on the island and occupy a wide range habitats and temperatures. I really doubt that you snake is not eating because it's a few degrees too hot or too cold.

Juts my opinon though... .take it for what it's worth!

[Removed_2815]

My reply was for uog11, wasn't supposed to suggest that the orginal poster's problem is temperature related.
Ryan

[uog11]

i didn't think that temp was necessarily the problem, but could be one amoung many, or none, and the snake is just getting ready to burmate.
aaron

[Ontario_herper]

I understood and agreed with your post Ryan!

I was just saying that I don't think these snakes are one that would refuse meals because temps aren't perfect. From my experience they don't seem to be that picky.