I'm very worried.

TryToForget · 09-17-04, 05:50 AM

I posted a while ago about how my leopard gecko wasn't eating. Well I've had her since the 24th and she's only ate 3 times. The last time she ate was on the 5th. She ate 4 white mealworm things before they turn into beetles and 3 mealworms. She ate crickets the other 2 times. She pooped after every meal (not right after but normally the next day). Well lately she's been peeing a lot or what I think is pee. It's white but sometimes there's a lot of liquid with it or just liquid without the white. I've very concerned right now. This morning she pooped but it was completely white. Is that normal? I've only had her for a little while and I'm not ready to let go of her

. I wanted to try waxworms but the only place around here isn't going to get them in until tuesday. Does anyone have any suggestions on what I can do??

-Jamie

Samba · 09-17-04, 09:09 AM

Jaime, you need to have your gecko evaluated by a vet... I thought this was recommended to you the last time you posted about your gecko not eating. Obviously your gut is telling you this isn't normal.

You need to schedule an appointment right away, before things get worse. Try to collect a fresh fecal sample and refridgerate until it can be taken to the vet appointment.

Has your gecko lost weight? How are you keeping it warm? How old is it?

TryToForget · 09-17-04, 01:36 PM

Well like I said she started eating so I didn't think that anything was wrong with her. She herself hasn't lost any weight. Her tail is about the size of what it was when I first got her. Definitely not skinny but not fat either. I keep her warm by a infrared light bulb. I keep her temperature between 80-90. She is about 8 months old. She is still active and everything. Her behavior hasn't changed at all. How often do they pee? Because she does between 2-3 times a day/night. I also don't have a vet around here. There is one in Maine but he is really expensive and I heard that he wasn't that great. I'd have to go to another state, probably NH. I'm also 16 and I don't have the money to take her to the vet. I know people say don't get animals unless you can take them to the vet if they need to be seen. But I had to go out and buy a bunch of stuff for my snakes that just recently got mites and I only have about 30 dollars left over.

-Jamie

Samba · 09-17-04, 04:20 PM

Dear Lord...

Well, it sounds like your gecko is acting normally except for the pee part. I had a female gecko prolapse once and she did this.

Get your gecko to a vet or find someone else to take her... not fair that you may be preventing her from getting better.

TryToForget · 09-17-04, 04:47 PM

Well I did some calling around and I found out a vet that supposedly knows something about leopard geckos. They are in Maine also. About a half hour away so it's not too bad. They told me that for an exam it will cost 42 and that they won't charge more than 10.50 for medication if she needs it. I found someone who owes me 30 dollars so I should be all set

. I'm going to try and make the appointment as soon as I can next week (since they're closed on the weekends).

I'm just wondering but why did you change your mind from saying that I need to schedule an appointment right away to saying that she's normal?

-Jamie

TryToForget · 09-22-04, 05:17 PM

Well I just got back from the vet for those of you who care. Poor Eclipse has internal parasites . I'm not really sure but the vet said that it was unusual that she has the type of parasite because they are normally in bearded dragons (the person that I got her from also had a lot of bearded dragons at their table so she must have caught it from them?). It was called cocsillea or something along those lines. I'm not positive. If anyone knows what I'm talking about then feel free to correct me. But anyways, I have to give her medicine every other day for 21 days. He told me to call him back if she doesn't eat within a week. I really hope she does. He told me that she is in good shape for not eating since the 5th so I'm happy about that. He was telling me that I should get a uvb light. I have an infrared right now. Does anyone think that I should get a uvb? I don't want to go out and spend the money if I don't need to (the vet bill came up to 71.95 but it was worth it). He also told me to take her off of tile because it will get to cold when the light isn't on. I have a 75 watt and should have a 50 so I have to turn it off when it gets too hot. Does anyone thing I should just stay with it or get something else? I had reptile carpet but she would go to get a cricket and her teeth would get stuck on it so I went out and got the tile instead. Well any feedback will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

-Jamie

augerdvm · 09-22-04, 05:26 PM

Jamie:

You gecko has "Coccidiosis". this is an internal parasite which can lead to alot of gut inflammation & life threatening diarrhea. The antibiotic your gecko is on must be a sulfa-based antibiotic. remember. this parasite is IMMEDIATELY contagious which means ALL bowel movements must be cleaned up immediately or your pet can re-infect itself. It will take 3-5 dasy to get the infection under control & the appetite should return soon thereafter. Make sure your gecko doesnt get dehydrated. Coccidiosis is very prevalent in beardies but to a certain extent can be considered a "normal" inhabitant of the intestines. However if the number of parasites gets too high it can lead to disease.
I recommend a UVB light to all my gecko clients even if some sources say its not required. UVB helps with normal metabolism * physiology and cant hurt the animal.
For a substrate...tile is not the best, i agree with your vet. it gets too cold too quick. Some of the reptile sands are adequate as a substrate

hope this helps

TryToForget · 09-22-04, 05:43 PM

Wow that's really scary. The past few days she has been having diarrhea too. Well I totally murdered that word lol. Sorry about that. I knew it started with "coc" though. The medication that he gave me is called trimethoprim-sulfa. It was pretty difficult giving it to her but I put it on her nose and she licked it off that way so it must have tasted alright.

What type of uvb bulb do you recommend? Also is it going to be an adequate heat source or am I going to have to buy another lamp and have both lights on at the sametime? Sorry about the questions, I've just never used uvb light before. I only have ball pythons.

Thanks for you help.

-Jamie

augerdvm · 09-22-04, 06:06 PM

i recommend reptisun 5.0 flurescent UVB light. They DO NOT produce heat. You can use a read heat buld on her and leave it on 24hrs as they dont perceive the red as light nad it wont interfere with the hours of daylight they get. Otherwise you can use the ceramic bulb heaters

Cruciform · 09-22-04, 06:18 PM

What is the optimal distance on a bulb like that? The drop in UVB energy follows a steep curve as the distance increases right?

herpslave · 09-22-04, 07:59 PM

if you want full use of a uv light it needs to be no less then 12 inches. tile can stay warm with any hot bulb. You can put substrate like peat moss in other hides. Since they most likely will hand out there if it is warm.

Artemis · 09-22-04, 08:36 PM

Fyi- Coccidia and Giardia are intestinal parasites that can also affect PEOPLE. After a bout with giardia myself, trust me and WASH YOUR HANDS thoroughly after you have been dealing with your pets.

Good luck with your gecko!

Artemis
Artemis

TryToForget · 09-22-04, 08:50 PM

Oh jeez. Believe me, after hearing that, I will wash my hands thoroughly. I had no clue that people could get it too. At least I found out now instead of later on. Thanks Artemis.

-Jamie

Samba · 09-23-04, 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Samba
it sounds like your gecko is acting normally except for the pee part.

From what you describe your gecko appears to be acting normal. If your gut is telling you there is something wrong with her, and she doesn't eat, despite the best of care (which I assume) then something is wrong...

P.S. Well, I should have read the rest of the reptiles before answering. Glad you got her to the vet, it probably saved her life. If I were you, I'd keep her on paper towels until this all blows over... easy to clean, absorbant (for all the 'pee' and diarrhea). I would do cage cleanings every day as well... just to make sure. Actually, I'd probably go a step further and destroy the cage to prevent reinfection.

I don't know if she is drinking, but in either case, keep her hydrated... I use Pedalite (crap it's early and I can't spell). It helps them regain electrolytes A LOT quicker than regular water does. It can be diluted and mixed into the drinking water, or submitted orally via syringe. Don't offer any food for a few days, so that she can regain strength and reduce stress. (Not sure how long it's been). Keep us updated on her progress, and by the way, I'm proud of you for doing the right thing and taking her to a vet... You don't know how many people would rather just let their animal suffer than spend the money on them. Good luck with her... =)

TryToForget · 09-23-04, 05:06 PM

Well I don't think that I need to change her to paper towels because she goes on only the top of her humid hide. It has a plastic top that I can take right off and run under hot water to get everything off.

She is drinking. I've caught her in action a few times. I have some mealworms in a dish so I'll take those out and then try her in 3 days or so.

Thanks. I hope everything is going to be okay now.

-Jamie