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Old 04-07-04, 07:39 PM   #1
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Question What else do I need?

Ok, I've read over a dozen or so ball python care sheets. And they all say different things, and now I've found this site and I hope its the answers to my prayers. So with that said, I have a 20L tank already with a screened top. What type of lighting do I need to get, hide(s) water bowl, etc. Temp gauge, hygrometor, humidity gauge? Help me out please! I want to get the tank set-up so I can go purchase my new friend. If anyone can post a list of things I need to buy that'd be greatly appreciated. Also, any pics would be great as well, thanks in advance.

-David
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Old 04-07-04, 08:12 PM   #2
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ok, a UTH with a rheostat or lamp dimmer is usually best (lights dry it out to much)

a digital thermometer with a probe, put the probe over the uth INSIDE the cage (while the uth is outside of the cage underneat it. if it has a sticky side, leave the paper on, so you can use it on different cags if you want)


Use the dimmer to lower the heat, a UTH can get over 110 degrees.
news paper or paper towel is usually best for the first month or so to watch for mites. Get a fecal when you can.

temps to be around 90-95 degress hot side and 80-85 cool side.

most people use 2 hides, one on hot side and one on cool side.

alot of people like to put in a bowl large enough for the snake to soak in.


I use the 4wk rule. I don't handle the snake unless absolutely necessary until after the snake has eaten successfully 4 times in a row (or about 4wks)


And a hygrometer to put in the cage (it is usually a little round dial)

try to have the cage set up atleast 2-4wks BEFORE you get the snake so you can measure temps and humidity.

When you get the snake put him/her in the cage and leave him alone for atleast 2 wks, only getting in the cage to spot clean or to give fresh water.

Other people have different opinions. But that is the most "basic" that I think of.

Also if you look in the bottom of the page there is a search bar, you can use that. Don't be afraid to ask questions.
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Old 04-07-04, 08:44 PM   #3
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Thank you very much! A UTH would be a underground heater, correct? Also, what type can you suggest me buying for a 20L aquarium?

Thanks, David
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Old 04-07-04, 08:49 PM   #4
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Undertank heater (or a human heating pad that does NOT shut off after two hours, but you have to remember that human heating pads were not designed to be left on 24hours a day like a snake needs it to be)


They usually say on the package what size tank they are for (dont worry if it says substrate heater, STILL put it UNDER the tank)
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Old 04-07-04, 08:55 PM   #5
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Quote:
And they all say different things, and now I've found this site and I hope its the answers to my prayers. So with that said, I have a 20L tank already with a screened top.
You've been reading the wrong care sheets.
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Old 04-07-04, 09:05 PM   #6
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ya, unless your house has about 40% humidity or you want to use a spray bottle all the time to up the humidity then tanks generaly suck.

A rubbermaid/sterilite or custom enclosure is the best way to go. If you are worride about escapes put a couple of bungies around each end of the container. And obviously drill/melt holes in it around the container.

humidity not in shed 40%-50%
humidity IN shed 70%-80%

The ONLY snakes I have in glass cages are my corn and w.hognose. Both of which don't need high humidity. My room humidity is generaly 36%-45% anyways.
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Old 04-07-04, 09:33 PM   #7
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Ok so say I got a custom enclosure what would the dimensions/specs need to be, and does anyone have any sites that have custom enclosures?

-David
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Old 04-07-04, 09:34 PM   #8
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Sapphire can you post pics of your ball python set-up?

Thanks, David
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Old 04-07-04, 09:45 PM   #9
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no, I don't have any pics of the cages. Just picture a long rubbermaid like container, with holes drilled in the sides near the top. I have 2 hides in it and aspen shavings, and water bowl, plus something for them to climb on.

I also have lamps NEAR the the cages so they can get a daytime/night time cycle. But they don't really add any heat.


If you go to the gallery you might find some pics of cages that have rubbermaid setups.



There is also an edit button so you don't have to double post.
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Old 04-07-04, 10:00 PM   #10
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A nice custom enclosure would be 3x2x1. That would house an adult BP just fine. Sliding glass front, made out of 5/8" plywood. Painted with a water-proof enamel. Perfect cage. Cheap to build too. All in all, probably less than $50.

No light (nocturnal, burrowing snake, how's it going to benefit from a light??), as a heat pad will suffice. 90-92F warm end, 80F cool end. Shallow, tight hide (can be made from the scrap plywood from building the cage), small water dish, and you're good to go!
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Old 04-07-04, 10:22 PM   #11
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Good post Jeff.

Ryan
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Old 04-07-04, 10:34 PM   #12
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If I am incorrect slap me Jeff. But are you saying that Ball Pythons are nocturnal burrowing snakes?

Thanks, David
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Old 04-07-04, 10:36 PM   #13
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Jeff, where do you get the supplies to build like that for $50.00, share the info, I seem to be building lots lately. glass alone is almost that around here! LOL. The wooden cage I originally was going to use for bp's cost a lot more than that but the rack I'm building instead will still end up costing me $150.00 but that will hold 7 rubermaids so 7 snakes versus 1. My wooden cage wich is being transformed into a rabbit hutch still cost 150.00 and it would have been more but I'm saving the plexi I bought for another project and using wire mesh for the hutch. Anyone got info on cheap building supplies please share the information!!
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Old 04-07-04, 10:40 PM   #14
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yes thats right.

The only reason I used lights for mine are because we had our windows blanketed up (because cold air came in and made it like 50 in our room). And I wanted them to have a source of daytime night time.
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Old 04-07-04, 10:43 PM   #15
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Ok cool sounds good, I may get to work on building a custom set-up for a ball python, and it's good to know that lights aren't nescessary. I may just put a red light on at night for viewing purposes.

-David
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