Rack Question

Will · 09-15-03, 09:37 PM

I'm in the process of building a new rack for my snakes and have a question for anyone who can answer this. I have decided this time to add a 1/8" gap between the top of the rubbermaid and the top of each shelf. I built the last one without adding a gap and the fit was so tight between the rubbermaid and heat tape, that it would always stick and occassionally pull off part of the heat tape(NOT good). Now I've gone about adding the extra space to ease the sliding process, but I have that 1/8" gap at the top of each tub. Now, right now it isn't a problem since all I have are adult and yearling Calis, but I will be recieving a pack of baby hondos in the next month and am now wondering if the babies will be able to squeeze through a 1/8" gap. Has anyone done this and had escapes with this, or do you think a baby can fit through...? It's been awhile since I've had a baby snake, and as I recall they are freaking tiny. Any suggestions...?

Kappa · 09-15-03, 10:10 PM

I would leave a little large gap for air circulation(rubbermaid holes are cut in the top of mine) and the attach a harder sponge to the top of the shelves so that the snakes wont be able too push the lids off but it is rather easy to take them off of the rack.

Tim_Cranwill · 09-16-03, 01:51 AM

NO GAP!!!!

Make 'em fit nice and tight....

Kappa · 09-16-03, 02:17 AM

My guys cant push the lids off but its easy for me to remove the bins from the rack whenever i need too, just an idea but i also keep BPs so they need a little more room to escape.

vanderkm · 09-16-03, 01:03 PM

Our hatchling hondos are actually quite thickbodied compared with the corns, but I would still be nervous about a gap of even 1/8 inch - they can flatten out when they are motivated.

Jeff F. had a good suggestion at the Red Deer show - using weather stripping foam along the top of the tubs - just stick it on and it will compress when you move the tub in, but will still provide a barrier to the snake for added security. He is using it on a gap in the underbed size rubbermaids for adult hondos. My only concern would be that the snake not be able to contact the adhesive part of the strip in any place. But if your rack is already built, then that may help.

Our rack is heated from the back so not a problem to have the tubs fit snuggly, but you don't want to be pulling up your heat tape every time. Have you considered adding a thin layer, maybe plexiglass, over the heat tape to lift the tubs up and make it easier to slide? Would cost a bit for one sheet, but might be worth it for the hatchling shelf just until they are a bit bigger.

Now to the real question - new hondo babies!?? Can you tell us what you are getting - and maybe share some pictures when they arrive. Pretty exciting - they are great snakes and I am sure you will be adding some nice ones to your great cal king collection,

mary v.

Will · 09-16-03, 09:31 PM

Well, I don't have them in hand yet and haven't actually finalized the order, so I don't want to spoil the surprise(I'll tell when I get the order done though), but I will definitely post some pics when they arrive. Patience...

I like the idea with the weather stripping, maybe I can give that a try, I've got enough time before they get here to try a few things.

vanderkm · 09-17-03, 08:58 AM

Ah yes - patience - something I know little about. Looking forward to seeing the photos - good luck with getting what you want and having them arrive safely,

mary v.

crimsonking · 09-17-03, 04:08 PM

Do you use a lidless system or do you use the rubbermaids and their lids? Consider using the lids too. Or use a router to cut out the area for the heat tape to fit into. Gaps without lids = escaped snakes.
:Mark

Stockwell · 09-17-03, 04:49 PM

You can't afford much of a gap with any neonate colubrids. They can and will escape and as Mary says, they can squeeze flat.

Personally I use smaller racks built with higher tolerences that hold smaller trays, (the shoebox size) to raise stuff up for several months, until they outgrow the shoeboxes.

Using a wide transitional piece of almumunium duct tape on the entry edge of the heat tape will help it slide onto the heat tape without a big bump. you can get that from Home Depot it's silver and very smooth and shiny.
It's also possible to mount the heat tape vertically up the inside back of the rack avoiding all frictional contact with the trays. This will still heat the entire back of the containers. It doesn't have to be underneath the trays with colubrids, especially with Hondurans , which prefer it cooler anyway. Be careful you dont overheat them... They like it lower than 85F or they'll be in the water all the time. 78 to 82 is fine for Hondos.. I don't give mine any gradient at all.

Linds · 09-17-03, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by cranwill
NO GAP!!!! Make 'em fit nice and tight....

I wouldn't say absolutely no gap. I have a rack that was built with no gap and I can't stand it, I have to tug on some of the tubs and that knocks the water aorund and so forth. To make a rack with just enough of a gap, you can fold a piece of computer paper in to quarters and place those along the edges of the tub when building it. Gives a millimetre of space to work with, but nothing is gonna escape

Invictus · 09-17-03, 06:15 PM

Yeah, I think if something was small enough to escape through a 1 mm opening, it's probably too small to crawl up the sides anyway.

Classic · 09-17-03, 08:31 PM

Linds, Your water problem is easily remedied. Go to a dollar store, buy the cheap tupperware 1-2 dollars and cut a round appropriate size hole in the lid and keep it on your water dish. Your splashing days are over.

Will · 09-17-03, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Using a wide transitional piece of almumunium duct tape on the entry edge of the heat tape will help it slide onto the heat tape without a big bump. you can get that from Home Depot it's silver and very smooth and shiny.

I had that on the other one, and over time(usually a month or two), it still peeled away(starting with the tubs that were too stiff). It was a combo of problems not just that, well mostly that and the fact the some tubs were damn near impossible to move while others slid in and out easier which made me decide to rebuild with a small gap. Without the gap, I had a cracked rubbermaid and one that looks as if it starting to warp. I think when you stand the rack up, the shelves bow a bit in the middle, because the two edge tubs seemed to be the problem on each shelf while the middle ones generally worked fine.

The reason I decided a 1/8" gap was fine is because this rack was intended for the yearling/adults, which can't fit through a gap that small. Next year when I actually start having babies(well, not me

...), I will be building a new rack just for them using smaller rubbermaid tubs with the lids on. It's just this little transition period where I have an adult rack housing babies that I ran into this little problem.

Quote:

Do you use a lidless system or do you use the rubbermaids and their lids? Consider using the lids too

Heheh, too late now, it's been built already. I will be doing that next year when I build a hatchling rack though.