Belly heating a 1/2" pvc enclusure

LarryS · 12-01-13, 11:14 AM

For those you with 1/2" thick caging, are you finding that the heat from a UTH or heat tape adequately penetrates the material? Also do the stick on UTH's stay put on the bottom of the cage?

Most of my research has shown that people prefer a thinner cage bottom for heating, but here on this forum I see several mention using this setup on the full thickness with no issues.

It as always advisable to provide an air gap under belly heated cages, so would "feet" on the bottom of the cage for this purpose be something that would be a welcome feature?
This could also be a benefit for overhead heated cages to minimize heat transfer.
How thick are the more popular heat pads?

I'm thinking that the feet could interlock in the cage below for stacking and also provide the air gap.

Thank you in advance for any and all feedback.

Larry

B_Aller · 12-01-13, 11:57 AM

with just a 1/2 " bottom are you experiencing flexing, warping or bending? I would think 1/2 inch would be too weak to handle substrate weight. I use pig blankets to heat nesting areas within my enclosures through thick plywood and fiberglass without issue, takes some time to heat up but never had an issue with penetration.
B

LarryS · 12-01-13, 12:21 PM

The cage in question is only 4w x 2d x 1h, and divided into 2 x 2 halves. Substrate will be no more than two inches thick. The cage is for a friend, keeping two kingsnakes in it (one on each side).
I will probably put six "feet" on the cage, two on each end and two in the center. I'm fairly certain that the bottom won't sag, but will be interested to hear more on this as well.

Jim Smith · 12-01-13, 12:38 PM

I use Proline from Ed at Northwest Constrictors. These cages provide a small space under the cage that provides the perfect place to put heat pads or strips without "sandwiching" them between cages. The way that Ed makes his cages is to put a 1.25 inch wide strip of the 3/8 inch thick PVC material on the top and bottoms of the cages. The strip of material goes from the front of the cage to the back on either side of the tank. He uses dovetail joints for all his cages and the joint is about 3/16 from the top and bottom of the sides pieces. This leaves a 3/16 gap that works great for allowing space for a heat strip or heat tape. The strips of PVC material also locks the cages in place when they are stacked so that they don't slide around if they are bumped while cleaning.

Ed makes high quality cages that are extremely well designed and meticulously fabricated.

Jim Smith

LarryS · 12-01-13, 01:53 PM

I should have been more clear. I am building the cage myself, for a friend and then down the road will be offering them for sale.

I do agree though Jim, Ed makes great cages! His design is smart, in that it ships flat yet is easy to assemble and strong. He is a great guy too.

formica · 12-01-13, 02:02 PM

The plastic enclosures I have seen with 1/2 inch thick floors, had a heat pad area sunk into the floor, making a thinner area for the heat pad - i dont have any problem with 10mm PVC and heat mats, thats what, 3mm off 1/2 inch?

Jim Smith · 12-01-13, 03:10 PM

Larry,

Actually you were clear in your initial posting. I was just providing some ideas that I have seen work very well in doing exactly what you're intending to do; mainly using a strip of thinner PVC as a long support/foot rather than individual feet on the cage corners and center.

By the way, why does the customer want to use 1/2 PVC material? The 3/8" stuff that Ed uses (King Starlite XL) works great for his cages, many of which are longer than the cage you plan on building. Just a thought...

LarryS · 12-01-13, 05:49 PM

Quote:

The plastic enclosures I have seen with 1/2 inch thick floors, had a heat pad area sunk into the floor, making a thinner area for the heat pad - i dont have any problem with 10mm PVC and heat mats, thats what, 3mm off 1/2 inch?

This is what I was thinking also. After seeing that a few have successfully used UTH mats under full 1/2" material I'm wondering if the thin area is necessary.
It will be a PIA to rout out that large area and then it will be a porous finish. Not sure if anything will stick to it. If that is what it takes though I'll figure it out!

Quote:

Actually you were clear in your initial posting. I was just providing some ideas that I have seen work very well in doing exactly what you're intending to do; mainly using a strip of thinner PVC as a long support/foot rather than individual feet on the cage corners and center.

By the way, why does the customer want to use 1/2 PVC material? The 3/8" stuff that Ed uses (King Starlite XL) works great for his cages, many of which are longer than the cage you plan on building. Just a thought...

Thanks for the feedback Jim. I will probably overload an existing cage with temporary spacers under it to see how it holds up. I was only thinking of the "feet" for aesthetic reasons. Probably round discs similar to those on stereo systems.
I use the 1/2" material for strength and a slight insulating benefit. I also have my doors set into a recess in the cage and the thicker material is better suited.

LarryS · 12-04-13, 04:43 PM

Put some spacers,at the corners and placed 22lbs in the center of one of the cage "halves"

Heated then cage to 120f with a lamp and see no deflection in the cage floor.

Now to decide on the UTH and I'll see he it works.