Best way to bulk up a snake?

[Starbuck]

Hi all;
I recently took my honduran milk snake to the vet for a skin issue, and in the course of the exam we both decided that she was a little on the thin side.
She is 5 feet and 2 inches +/-, and when i weighed her a week and a half ago she was 912 grams, yesterday at the vets she was 874 grams (she has pooped twice and hadnt eaten yet this week, hence the disparity).
Ideally, i think she should be at about 1000-1100 grams.

My question is this:

Should i feed her more prey items per feeding (2 mice vs 1)?

Larger prey items/feeding (switch from large mice to small rats)?

OR more frequent feeding (right now she is fed every 7-8 days)?


What do you think would be the best way to put a little weight on her, she is not a breeding snake and just got out of a bad situation + brumation.

[NextMorph]

I would say that at that weight she isn't necessarily unhealthy.. as in... it's not an emergency to bulk her up... just that you think it would be helpful. Which is great, because you're not in a rush. What I would do... because this is a new snake to you if I remember correctly.... is start out feeding as you normally would any other snake, and see how her weight reacts. Maybe the previous owner wasn't feeding her much and this will be enough for her to gradually put on weight. If she doesn't gain weight.. I would then consider feeding more or larger prey items. Rats do tend to bulk up a snake quicker than mice, in my opinion.

I wish you the best of luck with her! She's pretty and is most certainly appreciating the good care she is now being given.

[Concept9]

I'm not sure how large a large mouse is because all I feed my snakes are rats.

My MBK is 4ft 7inch, weighs 650 grams and eats a small 64 gram rat every 7 days and looks to me for more when he is done, LOL

He had neglect issues too when I got him. He was about 4ft 4" and about 585 grams when I got him about 7 weeks ago.

Hope this comparison helps.

[Terranaut]

If you offer appropriate sized prey once a week the snake will be fine on it's own. After you own this snake a while you will learn to read the snakes actions and know when it's hungry. If you feel the snake needs more food offer it a second mouse and see what happens. Just like people snakes have different appetites and not every snake of a certain breed will be exactly the same dimensions. So just feed your hungry snake what it needs once a week and the weight will take care of itself. Don't worry. He will be fine

[possum]

I'd feed slightly more frequent meals, and stick with smaller prey items, maybe 2 small ones instead of 1 larger, because the larger rodents have more bone & hair (less digestible), while younger rodents are more calorie-dense & easier to digest. Just don't over-do it (I know you won't...) as being on the lean side is good for snakes just like ppl. When I've taken in really starved snakes, I've fed small prey on an accelerated schedule as their digestion & response dictated; size of rodents used depended on type/size of snake, but pinkies are the most digestible, then fuzzies, etc. They turn around fast with TLC.

[smy_749]

Originally Posted by possum

I'd feed slightly more frequent meals, and stick with smaller prey items, maybe 2 small ones instead of 1 larger, because the larger rodents have more bone & hair (less digestible), while younger rodents are more calorie-dense & easier to digest. Just don't over-do it (I know you won't...) as being on the lean side is good for snakes just like ppl. When I've taken in really starved snakes, I've fed small prey on an accelerated schedule as their digestion & response dictated; size of rodents used depended on type/size of snake, but pinkies are the most digestible, then fuzzies, etc. They turn around fast with TLC.

Smaller ones may have less fur/bones (the bones are necessary to the health of the snake but we can ignore that for now) , isn't the ratio whats important?

A large mouse definitely has a greater innards to outer/skin/fur ratio than a small one does. And more developed bone structure.

[jarich]

Originally Posted by possum

I'd feed slightly more frequent meals, and stick with smaller prey items, maybe 2 small ones instead of 1 larger, because the larger rodents have more bone & hair (less digestible), while younger rodents are more calorie-dense & easier to digest. Just don't over-do it (I know you won't...) as being on the lean side is good for snakes just like ppl. When I've taken in really starved snakes, I've fed small prey on an accelerated schedule as their digestion & response dictated; size of rodents used depended on type/size of snake, but pinkies are the most digestible, then fuzzies, etc. They turn around fast with TLC.

While the fur isnt digested, the bone is and a very good thing too. Thats where the majority of their calcium comes from, and why its good to get reptiles on to larger sizes than pinkies as soon as possible. (younger animals dont have developed bones yet, so less calcium overall)

Ya, I would agree with there not seeming to be much need to change the feeding schedule. Id probably offer another mouse and see if it takes it, but Im guessing that it will bulk up on its own now that the problem has been resolved.

[Starbuck]

thanks for the feedback everyone! I think i will continue to feed her one large (or 2 regular) mice every 7 days, and weigh her once a week. I will re-visit the feeding schedule if she hasnt gained anything in 3 months.

She certainly is thin; not starving, but a little too lean for a healthy adult weight. In the event that she needs surgery in the future (possible tail-tip amputation), i'd like her to be in her best possible body condition.
theres no prominent spine, but her skin seems loose on her body, and her belly is concave. Will keep doing what we're doing, thank you everyone for the feed-back (LOL pun intended )

[Aaron_S]

Originally Posted by Starbuck

thanks for the feedback everyone! I think i will continue to feed her one large (or 2 regular) mice every 7 days, and weigh her once a week. I will re-visit the feeding schedule if she hasnt gained anything in 3 months.

She certainly is thin; not starving, but a little too lean for a healthy adult weight. In the event that she needs surgery in the future (possible tail-tip amputation), i'd like her to be in her best possible body condition.
theres no prominent spine, but her skin seems loose on her body, and her belly is concave. Will keep doing what we're doing, thank you everyone for the feed-back (LOL pun intended )

If she has loose skin that's probably a dehydration issue unless she just laid eggs.

I find snakes that eat regularly appropriate meals to not have that issue.

[KORBIN5895]

Originally Posted by Aaron_S

If she has loose skin that's probably a dehydration issue unless she just laid eggs.

I find snakes that eat regularly appropriate meals to not have that issue.

This snake was lost and found outside several months later.

[Starbuck]

generally, a growing (smaller animal) has less fat, as any excess calories are going towards growth. As the animal gets closer to breeding age, they start devoting excess calories to reproduction, and then fat deposition. Also, as they near adult size, their skeleton reaches adult size before their muscle and fat layers, so a sub adult animal should be 'leaner' overall. With laboratory mice, who are fed excess calories their entire lives, this ratio may be a bit different, but most animals will follow this pattern, some to the extreme (think female chameleons devoting everything to reproduction :P ).

the mice i have for this snake are very large (i will weigh them later today), but the smaller mice she would share with my king snakes are about 2/3 of the size. i will usually feed 2 prey items if it is a longer interval between feedings.

[Starbuck]

i think possum was referenceing ease of digestibilty for severly impaired snakes (feeding pinkies vs. larger mice), ratehr than feeding pinkies to an otherwise healthy, but thin, snake.

One trick we use at the bird of prey facility i work at, for very small falcons who need top quality nutrition or who might be injured/recovering etc, we will skin/remove the feet of a day old chick or mouse so the bird doesnt eat those empty calories. Generally we only do this for injured birds or in the winter when they can barely meet their requirements due to cold etc.

[Starbuck]

she is about to shed again as well (after only 2.5 weeks from her last one?!), i think that may be contributing to the skin issue. She has two large water bowls and a humid hide.
Thanks for all the replies everyone.