Thermostat probe location

EddieBalboa · 12-26-15, 10:10 PM

Hello,

I have already taped my Zoomed UTH to the bottom of my glass tank and have the thermostat probe taped on the glass bottom inside of my tank. In order to get more accurate readings and prevent the chance of my snake from disloding the probe from the glass, I was thinking of taping the probe to the backside/bottom of the zoomed uth. I understand that it would have been better if I were to wedge the probe between the uth and the bottom of my tank but what's done is done. My question is: will my temperature readings be more accurate if I do this? Most people like I said would have the probe between the tank and the UTH. Thank you.

reknirt · 12-29-15, 01:01 PM

I've had the same debate. It seems to me that the reading would be more accurate from inside the tank with the probe taped to the glass and substrate poured directly on top of the probe. That way the probe is reading the inside of the tank and not just the temperature of the heat mat.

AndrewM1217 · 12-29-15, 01:15 PM

I keep my probe on the outside of the heat pad on its backside like you mentioned trying. This way the snake has no chance of dislodging the probe. If the probe were to get moved away from the UTH by the snake, the pad would begin heating up because the probe would be further away and registering a lower temperature, causing the pad to heat up more and possibly to an unsafe temperature.

But you're right about the accuracy; placing it on the underside of the heater may require you to overshoot your desired temperature by a few degrees to get the inside of the tank to the proper temp, but that's where a thermometer comes in hand. Infrared thermometers are the most accurate Way of getting surface temperature I believe, but don't quote me on that.

Also, i initially tried putting the probe between the glass and the adhesive side of the UTH like you mentioned, but it totally prevented the pad from sticking to the tank.

TLDR; I would put the probe on the underside of the UTH and use a temp gun to doublecheck your temperatures

pet_snake_78 · 12-29-15, 09:20 PM

For heat tapes, I always tape the probe between the bottom of the tub and the heat tape. Yes, I use a temp gun to double check and usually there is a couple of degrees heat loss. Easy to account for and once setup.

**EL Ziggy** · 12-29-15, 10:46 PM

I have my probe between the enclosure and the uth. I used to place them inside the enclosure but the snakes kept moving them and I didn't like the seeing the wires. I've never thought of taping the probe to the underside of the uth. I have to set my thermostat at about 101F to get a hot spot of 86-88 inside the enclosure. You'd likely have to compensate even more taping the probe to the bottom of the uth. I'm curious to see how that works.

EddieBalboa · 01-02-16, 04:31 PM

How do you keep the UTH fully stuck onto the bottom of the enclosure without it coming off? If the probe is in between, I would assume this too be difficult. Thanks.

chairman · 01-03-16, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EddieBalboa

How do you keep the UTH fully stuck onto the bottom of the enclosure without it coming off? If the probe is in between, I would assume this too be difficult. Thanks.

You attach the pad with ducting tape. Not to be confused with duct "duck" tape, which actually isn't appropriate to use on ductwork. The proper tape is silver colored, metallic, and sold in the heat duct section of your local home improvement store. Just run the tape around the outside edges of the pad.

pet_snake_78 · 12-30-15, 04:27 AM

If it's a tub, you'd actually want the heat tape to stay on the rack so the probe would be under the heat tapes which would be taped to the rack. If it's an enclosure, then it would be between the heat tape and the bottom of the enclosure.

Albert Clark · 01-02-16, 04:59 PM

The main reason to not tape the probe to the inside bottom of the enclosure is in the event the water bowl is spilled and or the reptile urinates or defecates. That water , urination and or defecation can end up on or in the probe sensor causing a malfunction of the heating pad and a rise in the heat coming off the pad or other heating element to dangerous levels. Never use foil tape to cover the probe either. The safest place for the probe is between the heating pad and the outside glass of the bottom of the tank. Preferably to heat one side as the warm side and the other side of the enclosure to be the cool side.

EddieBalboa · 01-10-16, 09:03 PM

cool, thanks

Albert Clark · 01-11-16, 07:50 AM

Foil tape is what it's called

EddieBalboa · 01-12-16, 01:02 AM

Guys, so currently I have paper towels as my form of substrate because I'd like to see if there any mites left in the enclosure. When I point my IR temp gun on the hot spot, the temperature ranges from 88-95 and this is when I press down the paper towel...I have my thermostat set to 85 and it's weird that the temperatuer on the hot spot where my boa is sitting is higher than what's shown on the thermostat. I'm aiming for a temp range of 91-94 and based on the current range around the hot spot of 88-95, should I not adjust the thermostat which is set at 85? It's just that when I adjust the range can drop to only a high of 90...

bigsnakegirl785 · 01-12-16, 02:32 AM

Also, even the weight of the snake could throw the temps way off. I have the thermostat probes to my CHE and RHP inside my BCI's enclosure because that's really the only place to put them, and if he curls up against the probe, it goes from reading 90F to 74F. I then have to move the bugger off his probe and after a few minutes it reads the proper temps.

As Albert mentioned, any spilled water, defecations, or urinations could also throw the temps off.

Quote:

Originally Posted by EddieBalboa

Guys, so currently I have paper towels as my form of substrate because I'd like to see if there any mites left in the enclosure. When I point my IR temp gun on the hot spot, the temperature ranges from 88-95 and this is when I press down the paper towel...I have my thermostat set to 85 and it's weird that the temperatuer on the hot spot where my boa is sitting is higher than what's shown on the thermostat. I'm aiming for a temp range of 91-94 and based on the current range around the hot spot of 88-95, should I not adjust the thermostat which is set at 85? It's just that when I adjust the range can drop to only a high of 90...

When I measure temps, I move the bedding out of the way to measure the surface temp of the tub directly. As long as the surface of the tub is where it needs to be, it's good. As you can see, heat will transfer very easily through the paper towels when the boa sits on top of the heat pad and presses down on the paper towels.

Aim for a surface temp of 90-93F on the tub directly. I don't think you need to go as high as 95F tbh.

dannybgoode · 01-13-16, 01:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigsnakegirl785

Also, even the weight of the snake could throw the temps way off. I have the thermostat probes to my CHE and RHP inside my BCI's enclosure because that's really the only place to put them, and if he curls up against the probe, it goes from reading 90F to 74F. I then have to move the bugger off his probe and after a few minutes it reads the proper temps.

Don't put the stat probe at substrate level, particularly with a che. As you've already identified when the snake covers it then the stat thinks the temp has dropped and will increase power to the che. Che's kick out some serious heat and if your snake does this when you're not around to move it it could cause harm. I've measured my 150W at 80% power to be kicking out 350c + (662f!!

). Your snake covers the probe and your che thinks it's needing to play catch up could cause significant issues.

Fix the probe to the back of the viv about 1/3 down the length and about 6-8" from the substrate. Keep the area either side and in front free of decor etc. This way the probe is in little danger of being covered.

Then use a thermometer with a probe at the hot spot or a temperature gun to set the stat level. It takes a bit of faffing around, my stat is set at c. 26c for hot spot temp of 32c for example and I monitor the hot spot with a thermometer price at the hot spot permanently and each day with a temperature gun also but the faffing is worth it as it is much safer.

Doing it this way also ensures the cool side never exceeds the temperature as per where the probe is so I am confident of a good thermal gradient. I know that the warm side is at least 26c, the hot spot 32c and the cool side not more than 26c 1/3 the way down the viv and cooler beyond that.

For completeness I have another probe at the cool end measuring temperature and humidity so I know my cool side during the day is 23c dropping to just below 21c at night.

UTH's are not really suitable for large snakes. They do not warm the whole snake - too much muscle mass and they generally just heat what is in contact with them and not the ambient air temp. This means the lower and outer 1/3 of say a boas muscle is heated and not the rest. This can cause digestive problems as well as localised overheating of the snake.

RHP's and CHE'S are much more suitable but with the probe etc setup as per the above. Never have the probe where the snake or decor etc could cover it.

bigsnakegirl785 · 01-13-16, 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannybgoode

Don't put the stat probe at substrate level, particularly with a che. As you've already identified when the snake covers it then the stat thinks the temp has dropped and will increase power to the che. Che's kick out some serious heat and if your snake does this when you're not around to move it it could cause harm. I've measured my 150W at 80% power to be kicking out 350c + (662f!!

). Your snake covers the probe and your che thinks it's needing to play catch up could cause significant issues.

Fix the probe to the back of the viv about 1/3 down the length and about 6-8" from the substrate. Keep the area either side and in front free of decor etc. This way the probe is in little danger of being covered.

Then use a thermometer with a probe at the hot spot or a temperature gun to set the stat level. It takes a bit of faffing around, my stat is set at c. 26c for hot spot temp of 32c for example and I monitor the hot spot with a thermometer price at the hot spot permanently and each day with a temperature gun also but the faffing is worth it as it is much safer.

Doing it this way also ensures the cool side never exceeds the temperature as per where the probe is so I am confident of a good thermal gradient. I know that the warm side is at least 26c, the hot spot 32c and the cool side not more than 26c 1/3 the way down the viv and cooler beyond that.

For completeness I have another probe at the cool end measuring temperature and humidity so I know my cool side during the day is 23c dropping to just below 21c at night.

UTH's are not really suitable for large snakes. They do not warm the whole snake - too much muscle mass and they generally just heat what is in contact with them and not the ambient air temp. This means the lower and outer 1/3 of say a boas muscle is heated and not the rest. This can cause digestive problems as well as localised overheating of the snake.

RHP's and CHE'S are much more suitable but with the probe etc setup as per the above. Never have the probe where the snake or decor etc could cover it.

It isn't at substrate level, if it was touching the substrate it would throw off the temperature readings.. He happens to be 6" tall when he coils up and his hides are at least 7" tall. I can't put the probes any higher than where they are or risk not being able to properly heat the enclosure because of the sheer height of the enclosure and not having the technical know-how on how to install shelves that will hold a 9-10 lb snake.

I've solved this by moving his favorite hides off to the side of the probes, and he stays off them now. He also nowadays almost never goes into his hides so it isn't a problem.

The enclosure is 3' tall so even when this happens it doesn't get above 85F on the cool end or 90F on the hot end. The heating elements cannot get the enclosure above 80F without me heating the room to 80F in winter no matter how hard they work, so I think he's safe.