Feeding Problems

ARCH3R · 04-29-15, 02:20 PM

The newest to my collection is the most infuriating reptile I have ever kept. I've had feeding problems with Balls before but getting always got them eating again in a reasonable time. All my other snakes are AWESOME feeders, especially my woma.

So here's the deal. Picked up a 2014 male pink pastel anaconda in January, because let's face it, they're cute as hell. He turned down a F/T after a week, so I went with a live pinky the next week. He went about 3 weeks eating every 5 days, then nothing. Nothing changed, same rodent supplier, same cage, substrate humidity, heat, light timers, location, handling etc.

This led me to think possible parasites/bacteria or mouth sore/cut, but a Vet check said no to both. It's now been almost two months, and I've tried everything short of frog legs. Just to list them off... Humidity shifts, check. Heating change check. Moved into smaller tub, check. Scenting with tuna, sardine, frog scent, egg, check check check check check. Not handling for a few days before, check.
deli cup, check.

**millertime89** · 04-29-15, 05:54 PM

Albert Clark · 04-29-15, 06:14 PM

Maybe he isn't hungry? Why don't you switch to every 8 to 10 day feedings.

**lady_bug87** · 04-29-15, 06:40 PM

unless he's losing weight or has become dehydrated I wouldn't worry too much. Offer every 10 days as pp suggested.

In between don't disturb him nothing but spot cleaning and infrequent water changes

It would be more helpful if we knew the parameters of your set-up and how you're meassuring them

ARCH3R · 04-30-15, 10:43 AM

Sorry I tried to include all that, but something happened.
February 5th was at 12 inches and 24 grams and today about 13.4 in and 20 grams (visibly skinnier)
For lighting I have overhead lamps in the reptile room that's on a 12 hour cycle.
Humidity is kind of because the room is at about 60% but with fan and moisture soaker on top of terrarium I brought it down to about 30-45%. Fan was in place and on for last few feedings.
Thermostat at is set for 90 hot end 72 cool end all day.
When eating he was in a 16 quart, after food strike was moved down to a 12 quart (same temps)
As for messing with him I was handling daily, but have since left him alone except for one day a week when I attempt a feeding, then change water and check bedding in that order.
Last fecal movement was 2 weeks ago so I'm not too worried there.
Seems perfectly fine except for the weight loss and is still active as all get out.

I've heard of the adult males only eating 4 or 5 times a year, but this guy is tiny at 13 inches and 20 grams.

ARCH3R · 04-30-15, 10:46 AM

Additional note that I didn't think of until now, his last feeding was the first time he had eaten a fuzzy (it was a small one) but he still had a lump the next day so I moved back down to pinkies and all since then have been pinkies.

Eggplant · 05-01-15, 06:20 PM

When my hognose won't eat I usually cut the frozen thawed so that the guts kinda come out. I have some long tongs and i wiggle the mouse a bit in front of snakie. It's gross and messy but works every time for me.

I also heard that if you put the mouse and snake in a paper bag and leave them in there over night the snake will usually eat. Never had to try that though.

Another thing I've heard is to take away the water bowl for 3 days then try feeding a dripping wet mouse. Theory is the snake will be thirsty and end up eating the wet mouse.

Hope things turn out ok for you!

reptiledude987 · 05-01-15, 06:51 PM

Try braining the next pinkie (split the skull open with a small sharp knife). Braining makes less of a mess than cutting the whole thing open and gives a more "desirable" scent to the snake. I never heard of the removing water dish and offering a wet mouse before, but sounds like it could be a good way to go as well

Eggplant · 05-01-15, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reptiledude987

Try braining the next pinkie (split the skull open with a small sharp knife). Braining makes less of a mess than cutting the whole thing open and gives a more "desirable" scent to the snake. I never heard of the removing water dish and offering a wet mouse before, but sounds like it could be a good way to go as well

Somehow braining just seems scarier so that's my alternative

CK SandBoas · 05-01-15, 07:26 PM

What I've done with my male hognose is grasp the prey item around the middle with feeding tongs, offer it to the snake, without wiggling it, and let the hognose come up to it and grab it on it's own time. It takes patience with this method, but it has worked with all of mine. If you don't have the patience, place the item in the enclosure, preferably near the hide, and leave it in there overnight

**lady_bug87** · 05-01-15, 07:02 PM

I was about to suggest braining as well. Make sure the pinky is nice and hot too.

**lady_bug87** · 05-01-15, 07:24 PM

Op could also cut a fish open and smear the guts over the prey Item

Koosman09 · 05-01-15, 07:48 PM

Having feeding issues with a bush viper male. Any advice on these guys anyone own one ? Please advise

**lady_bug87** · 05-01-15, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Koosman09

Having feeding issues with a bush viper male. Any advice on these guys anyone own one ? Please advise

Message either Willow or SSSSnakes (Jerry) either of them will be able to help

ARCH3R · 05-04-15, 04:39 PM

Well thanks for all the advice guys. I attempted to feed again today. This time I rinsed the pinky then scented with a frog leg (for human consumption) and attempted CK's not wiggling technique for about a half hour. No luck so I'll leave it in overnight.

If he doesn't eat again tonight I'll reweigh and contemplate assist feeding. If he gets down to 19 grams from 24 I'll probably dust off the pinky pump. Wish me luck!