What Constipates Savannah Monitors

snakewright · 07-07-13, 09:32 PM

My Buddy Link (Sav.Mon) seems to be constipated all the time. He baths a TON and has Good humidity and heat. His bath I keep warm so he doesn't get cold as well.

His belly always feels hard, and dose not pop often and I see him try to and fail.

Ps: Do they ever stop trying to bite your fingers? I figure he just loves food to much as hes not overly aggressive.

infernalis · 07-07-13, 10:10 PM

Can you please post the following...

a photo of your cage.

The exact temperature of the basking spot.

The coldest temperature in the cage (cool end reading)

Humidity inside the cage

what have you been feeding?

what is your substrate?

With that information, we can tell you what you need to do.

snakewright · 07-07-13, 10:14 PM

Will Do ASAP Tomorrow, I am not with him atm.

Look back tomorrow

infernalis · 07-07-13, 11:00 PM

OK.

Usually constipation is from environmental parameters that are out of range.

Meanwhile, read up the links at the bottom of my post.

murrindindi · 07-08-13, 12:36 PM

Hi, I`d like to ask what type of thermometer/hygrometer you use to measure the temps and humidity? Also, why are you handling/taking the monitor out of it`s enclosure to bath it (or do you mean the animal is always in the water container in it`s enclosure, if yes, what the water temp)?
If you`re using feeding tongs and you wave the food items around in front of the monitor it probably will go for your fingers, and if you use your fingers to offer the food don`t be so surprised he/she wants to bite/eat them!

formica · 07-08-13, 02:12 PM

what are you feeding it? I've found that locusts seem to take my Sav longer to digest than crickets and dubias, when eating those he poops every day, when eating locusts its every other day

mine has never tried to bite me, hisses and tail whips allot tho, and tends to poop in my hand if i have to pick him up, only had to twice so far i'm glad to say lol one more time coming up when he moves enclosures in a few weeks

also what are your basking temps, if they arnt high enough (130-140F / 50-60C) he wont be able to digest his food - and how much is he eating? should be able to eat as much as you give him, mine will go thru 20 large crickets and 10 medium dubias, or upto 20 large locusts in a day quite happily, and still have room for more - and he/she is still about the same size as yours I recon

be careful to wash your hands with strong smelling soap before handling or going into the enclosure - you really dont want him to associate your hands with the smell of food, he's small now, but soon enough he's going to have a powerful jaw that will do allot of damage

B_Aller · 07-09-13, 11:08 AM

What Constipates Savannah Monitors?
Inferior husbandry.

Pirarucu · 07-09-13, 02:31 PM

^Yep. Inadequate heat and dehydration will constipate any cold-blooded animal faster than anything.

snakewright · 07-10-13, 10:50 AM

Hello Sorry I have not replied in a while. I have found out that my humidity meter was not working it read 75% but I took it out and it never changed :| I went out and bought moss and a new meter and it was like 40% Iv fixed it and know he seems to be a lot happier.
Also, I had his basking at 110 thinking it was to hot, but know have it at 125. His water is really warm as it is 25% under the basking lamp to keep the temps up.

I take him out to give him baths and feed him so he dose not eat the dirt/sand and know moss. I also feed him crickets and super-worms. When he is the bath he lets me handle him (after hes full)

murrindindi · 07-10-13, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snakewright

Hello Sorry I have not replied in a while. I have found out that my humidity meter was not working it read 75% but I took it out and it never changed :| I went out and bought moss and a new meter and it was like 40% Iv fixed it and know he seems to be a lot happier.
Also, I had his basking at 110 thinking it was to hot, but know have it at 125. His water is really warm as it is 25% under the basking lamp to keep the temps up.

I take him out to give him baths and feed him so he dose not eat the dirt/sand and know moss. I also feed him crickets and super-worms. When he is the bath he lets me handle him (after hes full)

Hi, it`s good to get an update from you!
Whatever I or any of the other more experienced keepers say it`s to help you help your animal, nothing is said with disrespect. I hope you keep that in mind!

You haven`t said what type of thermometer/hygrometer it is, analogue or digital?
You should never offer food from your fingers, because the monitor will associate your hands with feeding at all times (meaning if you simply want to change the water, spot clean he/she is expecting to be fed), it`s an accident waiting to happen, these animals can do a lot of damage once they grow!
You need to stop force handling the monitor immediately, you are causing a huge amount of stress, my guess is that the reason he/she appears "tame/calm" is because the temps/humidity were too low to allow the animal to function properly. Constant stress is a serious health risk, it can cause death in extreme cases.
You need to know basically two temps; the lowest ambient (air) @ approx. 24c (75f), then the SURFACE at the basking site of approx. 50 to 60c (120 to 140f).
The best types of heat bulbs are the low wattage halogens (flood, not spot) @ between approx 40 to 65w+. They won`t dry out the air as higher wattage bulbs do (this helps to keep the animal hydrated).
You want to heat at least the SV (snout to vent) length, so obviously as the lizard grows you may need to use more bulbs. This is my Asian Water monitor`s basking site, I need this amount because of his size...

The humidity needs to range between approx. 50 to 70%+. The lower figure will be around the basking area, the highest will be in the hides/burrows (probably significantly higher than 70%, but that`s fine so long as the burrows are not soaking wet).
Do you have a few photos of the monitor and enclosure?

snakewright · 07-10-13, 10:54 AM

I also feed him without tongs, when giving him worms hoping at one point he will figure out the difference between worms, and fingers. (He has trouble picking them up on his own.

Also, Is a home made out of wood and such better then a glass one? Iv read the glass ones just don't old humidity but was told it was fine at the pet shop

infernalis · 07-10-13, 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snakewright

I also feed him without tongs, when giving him worms hoping at one point he will figure out the difference between worms, and fingers. (He has trouble picking them up on his own.

Also, Is a home made out of wood and such better then a glass one? Iv read the glass ones just don't old humidity but was told it was fine at the pet shop

The pet shop lied.

No one makes a glass cage 8 feet wide, 4 feet tall and 4 feet front to back, and if they did, the one ton of dirt inside would break the glass.

Mind you, this is MINIMUM, bigger is better. Monitors like to roam and wander.

franks · 07-10-13, 11:09 AM

When I clean my monitor's water, there is a layer of dirt at the bottom from all of the soil he ate with his food. You do not need to feed him separately. He will digest whatever he eats with his food as long as your set-up is correct. Are you using calcium powder on his food?