Since most snakes roam the enclosure along the outer edge, put a water dish in the way so they find it....change the water once a week, or when empty (but it should never get empty!). Put it somewhere in the middle, between the two zones against the front or back of enclosure.
Eating? A lot of folks go by weight of food vs. snake, there are charts available on the Internet; some just give them something the same size of the snake (width of the thickest part of the snake), or 1.5x the width of the snake. Never mind thinking that the head can't get around the prey...it will. For my young snakes, I go with once a week, then every ten days as the snake gets bigger, then I either keep it there or increase it to every two weeks as the snake matures. Some snakes will eat themselves into obesity, but you don't want to let that happen. If they don't accept food, leave it overnight in front one of the hides, but pick it up the next morning (throw it away) and then feed again at the normal interval the next week. It will probably get hungry and be ready in a week.
Feed in the enclosure, don't stress the snake out by pulling it out to feed. If you're worried about substrate sticking to the snake, use either Reptibark or Cypress...it isn't as fine or as sticky as Aspen. I feed at night, when the snake's active, others might feed at other times.
Snakes go off food during shed, look for the blue eyes and dull scales, and during mating season, so don't worry if your snake doesn't eat for a few cycles.
Switch to Rats when you can...when the snake gets big enough to eat a Rat Pinky. Some will take time to adjust to the Rats, so you might have to scent with mice for a feeding or two (or more), but stick with Rats.
Ask more questions if you need to, someone will answer.
Quote:
Originally Posted by IKhaos
And could you guys possibly answer my other question in the post about her water or her eating habits or schedul?
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