Switching Ball Python to f/t mice?

vypr · 07-23-14, 02:14 PM

I have have 1 month old Ball Python, the breeder said he didn't have enough time to switch him from live to frozen/thawed.

Here is a timeline

July 19th - Purchased
July 21st - Food day, didn't eat
July 22st (night) - Retry, he didn't eat... Place mouse in terrarium overnight. Unsuccessful.
July 23rd - Not sure what to do

NOTE: I've tried feeding hooper and large pinkies

**EL Ziggy** · 07-23-14, 02:37 PM

You can try braining the prey or placing the snake and mouse in a deli cup/small container overnight. You can also try feeding a very small live prey item and follow it up immediately with a f/t prey item. Keep trying but only offer food every 7 days and he'll eat eventually. Best wishes and keep us posted.

FWK · 07-23-14, 02:39 PM

Give it a week and try again. A couple days is not enough time for him to get used to his new home. Balls are naturally shy and need to feel safe in their home before they will eat. Pre-scenting can help a lot, while I have the rodent thawing I'll take the hemostats I feed with and dip them in the water then stick it in the tubs vent holes. You could also dip a bit of paper towel in the water and put it in the enclosure. Gets their mouth watering so to speak. Another thing I find helpful is to offer the rodents very warm to the touch. Pythons have heat sensing pits and a warm rodent really gets their attention. I just use warm tap water to warm the rodents. If he is still hesitant try braining the rodent. It's a little gross but often is the last little push they need to get started. Just use a sharp knife to split the rodents skull and expose brain matter. If he still wont take it give it another week and try again. In the meantime give us some more info on his home, temps, humidity, hides etc. Pictures would be awesome and help a lot. Also, since you're already making the switch to F/T you may as well go to rats as soon as possible too.

virtuousvixen · 07-23-14, 03:15 PM

When i got my BP a month ago. he was 2 months old. I left him to settle in a week before i attempted to fed him. The first two feeds i had to put his food right in front of him in order for him to take it. Now you barely get it into the tub before he has grabbed it from you.

**Aaron_S** · 07-23-14, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vypr

I have have 1 month old Ball Python, the breeder said he didn't have enough time to switch him from live to frozen/thawed.

Here is a timeline

July 19th - Purchased
July 21st - Food day, didn't eat
July 22st (night) - Retry, he didn't eat... Place mouse in terrarium overnight. Unsuccessful.
July 23rd - Not sure what to do

NOTE: I've tried feeding hooper and large pinkies

Too many attempts in too frequent of a time line.

What I recommend all people with baby ball pythons to do is a couple easy steps.

1. The key is to be consistent! Offer only once every 5 days.
2. As above be consistent with the prey item! I use a live hopper mouse for the first couple of meals of my baby ball pythons. You should do the same to establish it eating before switching to frozen/thawed.
3. Double check all husbandry to ensure it's 100% accurate, then check it again. Many times this is the issue and not the snake itself.

Give the snake 5 days with leaving it alone and then offer it a live hopper mouse or whatever it was eating at the breeders.

Lastly, why didn't the breeder "have time" to switch the snake to f/t? Why was he or she in such a hurry to sell the snake? For me, I don't even put them up for sale until they are eating F/T.

aaron_cg · 07-23-14, 07:55 PM

Listen to Aaron_s when it comes to B.P.'s...

Guys am expert on them.

vypr · 07-23-14, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aaron_S

Too many attempts in too frequent of a time line.

What I recommend all people with baby ball pythons to do is a couple easy steps.

1. The key is to be consistent! Offer only once every 5 days.
2. As above be consistent with the prey item! I use a live hopper mouse for the first couple of meals of my baby ball pythons. You should do the same to establish it eating before switching to frozen/thawed.
3. Double check all husbandry to ensure it's 100% accurate, then check it again. Many times this is the issue and not the snake itself.

Give the snake 5 days with leaving it alone and then offer it a live hopper mouse or whatever it was eating at the breeders.

Lastly, why didn't the breeder "have time" to switch the snake to f/t? Why was he or she in such a hurry to sell the snake? For me, I don't even put them up for sale until they are eating F/T.

Very informative, hopefully I didn't do any damage from stressing him out. I am so used to Milk Snakes eating everything it sees. Lol

I'll probably go and buy a live hopper if he doesn't eat my f/t this weekend?

Also I'll get some pics up soon of his place, but he has:
3 hides
40-50% humidity
1/3 90f under the tank heater

vypr · 07-24-14, 04:00 PM

Just a update, here is a heat map of my terrarium.
http://i.imgur.com/xV6GbmL.jpg - temperatures were done via IR temp gun.
http://i.imgur.com/W0dtwSr.jpg - humidity level
http://i.imgur.com/wFq8hEz.jpg - The snake himself

Also about why the breeder wasn't able to switch him to f/t is beyond me.
I found him for a good deal at a reptile expo and he seemed cool, later found out he said he "didn't have time to switch their new snakes to f/t"

**millertime89** · 07-24-14, 05:22 PM

Those dial hygrometers are junk. Pick up a digital one.

vypr · 07-24-14, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by millertime89

Those dial hygrometers are junk. Pick up a digital one.

I have two terrarium working on getting another one.

FWK · 07-24-14, 06:22 PM

65-70 is way to cold for a Ball. Cool side temps shouldn't drop below the upper 70's. Wrap the sides and back with black construction paper or something, he is to exposed. Balls are very shy, if they do not feel secure they become stressed. Cover the screen top with plastic or tin foil to keep heat and humidity in. Aquariums can be a major pain to dial in for a Ball Python, they are far from ideal enclosures. You could save yourself and your snake a lot of trouble by putting him in a plastic tub. Balls spent the majority of their lives in holes in the ground (termite mounds, rodent burrows etc.), a little plastic tub mimics their natural habitat much better than a big glass aquarium ever will. I know lot of people want to keep their Ball in an aquarium so they can see it but they just are not that kind of snake.

vypr · 07-24-14, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FWK

65-70 is way to cold for a Ball. Cool side temps shouldn't drop below the upper 70's. Wrap the sides and back with black construction paper or something, he is to exposed. Balls are very shy, if they do not feel secure they become stressed. Cover the screen top with plastic or tin foil to keep heat and humidity in. Aquariums can be a major pain to dial in for a Ball Python, they are far from ideal enclosures. You could save yourself and your snake a lot of trouble by putting him in a plastic tub. Balls spent the majority of their lives in holes in the ground (termite mounds, rodent burrows etc.), a little plastic tub mimics their natural habitat much better than a big glass aquarium ever will. I know lot of people want to keep their Ball in an aquarium so they can see it but they just are not that kind of snake.

That's disappointing news, so if I cover the sides (top & left/right) I should be fine?
I hate the look of plastic bins. Also how can I easily heat the right side?

franks · 07-24-14, 07:42 PM

I agree with everything FWK said. Best alternative would be to make your own enclosure. If you want to stick with the fishtank, I would cover the entire top and use a UTH. You can use plastic vines to cover the sides and

vypr · 07-24-14, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by franks

I agree with everything FWK said. Best alternative would be to make your own enclosure. If you want to stick with the fishtank, I would cover the entire top and use a UTH. You can use plastic vines to cover the sides and

I'll probably switch to another terrarium, but I'll do a little modification temporary.
Is there a decent terrarium I can get that has glass on one side? Or maybe a DIY tutorial?

EDIT: I am using a UTH, the hot spot is the heater. It's covering 1/3 of the tank.
With a thermostat set at 90f.

franks · 07-24-14, 08:46 PM

Their are plenty of PVC and plastic cages you can buy. They are more expensive than a fishtank but are fairly reasonable. If you are fairly handy and think you can make a box out of plywood feel free to PM me and I will talk you through making acrylic doors. This is the reason. Many like tubs for their ball pythons. You can certainly keep a healthy ball python in the fishtank, it would just need a little modification. If you could solidly cover the 3 sides and top you are fine as long as it is not right in front of an air conditioner.