Re: handling new corn snake
The first rule of handling a new snake is do not handle the snake until it takes three meals in a row from you. Handling the snake can be stressful and cause the snake to avoid eating.
Once the snake is established, eating regularly, shedding well, then you can start handling.
The basic theory behind handling is that snakes view themselves as prey and you need to teach the snake that you are not a predator. The application of this theory is where everyone seems to diverge but, for the most part, even contradictory approaches seem to be successful. The universally accepted bits seem to be to always try to pick the snake up from underneath it (most predators will come from above) and try not to squeeze/grab the snake, they prefer being able to move about freely.
One approach is to force handle the snake. You simply remove the snake from the cage and hold on to it for 30-60 minutes at a time. If it bites, keep holding it. If it musks, keep holding it. If it defecates, keep holding it. If it tries to flee, keep holding it. Try not to return the snake to the enclosure until it is more or less calm in your hands. If the snake presents a defensive strategy that causes you to stop handling it (like biting, musking, etc) then the snake will continue to do that because it worked in the past. This approach aims to demonstrate to the snake that none of the usual defensive behaviors work but it doesn't matter because no harm ever befalls the snake. Eventually the snake will know you are not going to harm it and will just tolerate handling.
The other approach is to condition the snake to believe you're just a weird piece of furniture. This approach involves allowing the snake to watch you from the cage, attempting to familiarize the snake with your scent, your motions, and your overall presence. (Some people will place a dirty sock or shirt in the snake cage to familiarize the snake with their scent.) Eventually the snake will learn that nothing harmful ever happens when you are around and it will tolerate handling, especially if you start slow.
People that use the first approach generally argue that all the second approach does is unnecessarily stress out a snake. People that follow the second say the same thing about the first. Both seem to produce results equally.
I would recommend picking the approach you feel most comfortable with and go with it. If the snake stops eating then I'd give it a break until it starts feeding consistently again. If you start with approach 1 and it isn't yielding success after several months then switch to approach 2. And vice versa. If neither works, then, well, some snakes just never really tolerate handling.
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