GTP Questions.

Syst3m · 11-17-03, 10:22 AM

Well its been over a month since I've aquired my GTP.
I've been feeding it on a fairly decent schedule since it looked a little on the thin side when I got it. the first 2 weeks I had it she ate every 5 days, then the next two weeks it was every 7 days.

I beleive her temps are good, on the hot side its about 82, maybe 85 if she gets really close to the hot side. On the cool side its about 72-75. NTT's are dropping about 7f lower on the cool side. For the first few weeks she was a feeding machine. Now that I've slowed things down for her she seems to be not as agressive. She isn't nearly as agressive twards me either.

The humidity levels are good, she gets a liberal misting every day and things dry out nice over night. The cage is clean as can be.

She has multiple perches and plenty of water. Anyone have any ideas whe she seems like she is depressed?

I've been thinking about adding some natural vivaria to the cage but I'm not sure what isn't poisonous to her. (I would REALLY like to add live plants to the cage I can't stress how much happier that would make just me.)

Any suggestions welcome.

GTPman4 · 11-17-03, 04:15 PM

Try raising day temps about 3degrees and night time temps about 5 or 6.I also reccomend not using live plants because GTP's usually will destroy them.

Christine · 11-17-03, 10:39 PM

With live plants you do run the risk of getting some that are going to be toxic to her. Live plants really don't have much benefit for your snake.

Also, this is really about your snake's happiness, not yours - so regardless of how happy live plants would make you, she probably won't care and if you avoid live, you know she's safe.

Ditto on raising temps.

Syst3m · 11-18-03, 10:21 AM

temps are fine, 82f with 85+ basking (that means about 90 surface temps when she rest) Everyone I've talked to said that this is perfect. As far as night temps EVERYTHING I've read said to keep them between 65-75 at night. They live in the trees with cold night winds. I've read several things that say 60f is a safe bet.

I want to know what live plants are safe. I know that some plants are toxic so that is why I'm asking what plants are safe to use, its not a matter of what makes me feel better, it is my opinion that live plants are a benifit to the health of the animal that is why I'm going to use them. I know she will probably destroy them. Thats why I'm asking for what people find to work best for them and what is the safest.

maiden_canada · 11-18-03, 11:10 AM

system, go to a chameleon forum and ask for a list of non-toxic plants, theres a few ive seen that list like 100plants. someone there will link you right away.

Syst3m · 11-18-03, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by maiden_canada
system, go to a chameleon forum and ask for a list of non-toxic plants, theres a few ive seen that list like 100plants. someone there will link you right away.

Thanks for the good advice Maiden I'll do that now.

Memnoch · 11-18-03, 01:23 PM

Porthos is a nice nontoxic plant. It can also grow in water (no soil). They are relatively cheap and is quite hardy and they are more of a vine/creeper type plant. Most GTP breeder uses them in their neonate enclosures.

My veild chameleon is actually living on one now. And all of my neonate GTPs have them in their enclosures... I place the roots between the paper towel lining to keep it moist.

If you are going to get a Porthos plant make sure it is completely pesticide free. I would also take out the vermiculite (sp?) which is the white ball things in the soil, b/c if any animal accidently eats it, it may cause impaction or may shred up it's intestines.

Julian Garcia · 11-18-03, 03:51 PM

If your looking for good live plants photos plants will work fine. What you want to do is root the plan, fill you rink up with a water light soap solution (dawn antibacterial will work good for this). Now give the plant a few good dunking and a nice once over with a tooth brush after you are done.

I have used Live photos plants before, but have moved to silk ( i only use them for hatchlings having problems sheding). Problem with photos plants or any live plant for that matter they dont do that well, and you'll end up replacing them twice a year.

Look in to silk plants, you can't go wrong.

I would also highly suggest you keep your snake at a constant temp. The only reason you want to cool the snake is when the snake is entering its breeding cycle, and you plan on cooling. Other wise keep the snake at a constant temp.

Sounds like your snake is not "depressed" or lathargic due to its sorroundings. Remember most of these (CBB) are reared in tubs. I keep my collection in Nicoli style acrylic enclosures with no live plants or cover for that matter. As well do the majority of chondro keepers. If you are noticing your chondro becoming a bit lathargic, stimulate movement by misting more often or skipping a meal. Switching the snakes sorrounding is only going to stress it more.

-JG

Syst3m · 11-18-03, 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Julian Garcia
If your looking for good live plants photos plants will work fine. What you want to do is root the plan, fill you rink up with a water light soap solution (dawn antibacterial will work good for this). Now give the plant a few good dunking and a nice once over with a tooth brush after you are done.

I have used Live photos plants before, but have moved to silk ( i only use them for hatchlings having problems sheding). Problem with photos plants or any live plant for that matter they dont do that well, and you'll end up replacing them twice a year.

Look in to silk plants, you can't go wrong.

I would also highly suggest you keep your snake at a constant temp. The only reason you want to cool the snake is when the snake is entering its breeding cycle, and you plan on cooling. Other wise keep the snake at a constant temp.

Sounds like your snake is not "depressed" or lathargic due to its sorroundings. Remember most of these (CBB) are reared in tubs. I keep my collection in Nicoli style acrylic enclosures with no live plants or cover for that matter. As well do the majority of chondro keepers. If you are noticing your chondro becoming a bit lathargic, stimulate movement by misting more often or skipping a meal. Switching the snakes sorrounding is only going to stress it more.

-JG

Very well thought out post. I do try to keep it at a constant temperature, but I prefer to allow for a slight drop in temps over night since I feel that it will keep the snake on a more natural schedule. Unfortunatly after checking the temp logs my cool side doesn't really drop below 72f during the night time so I think my NTT drop is almost non existant. Hot spots don't move in temps during the night. The cool side ambient does drop a few degrees.

I mainty want live plants to help raise humidity and air quality in the cage. It won't bother me replacing them frequently because I'll probably be growing them from shoots outside of the cage too.

I may look into the idea of silk plants. I would really like my gtp to have a more natural surrounding.

What is your opinion on photo periods for these snakes? I've heard several suggestions of 10 hour photo periods for the snakes with full spectrum lighting?

Syst3m · 11-18-03, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Memnoch
Porthos is a nice nontoxic plant. It can also grow in water (no soil). They are relatively cheap and is quite hardy and they are more of a vine/creeper type plant. Most GTP breeder uses them in their neonate enclosures.

My veild chameleon is actually living on one now. And all of my neonate GTPs have them in their enclosures... I place the roots between the paper towel lining to keep it moist.

If you are going to get a Porthos plant make sure it is completely pesticide free. I would also take out the vermiculite (sp?) which is the white ball things in the soil, b/c if any animal accidently eats it, it may cause impaction or may shred up it's intestines.

Very good information Memnoch, thank you for the advice.

Julian Garcia · 11-18-03, 05:49 PM

12 on 12 off photo period is good.

<img src="http://www.finegtps.com/Images/new%20cage.jpg">

I know what you meen about a nice "natural" setting. Heres a photo of a GM style encloure www.finegtps.com (read all of his site btw if you have yet too). Greg uses silk plants btw.

<img src="http://www.arborealadventures.com/night_cages_1.JPG">

however a lab style set up can be employeed as well and with great sucess for both keeper and animal. This photo is of buddy and erin gotzer of www.arborealadventures.com Tony Nicoli of www.boas.net uses a similar set up, as well as I.

I wouldnt worry about making things more "natural" for your animal. These regiments have been fine tuned over the years. I as well as other keepers are not simply spouting off. But these experiments have been tried and tried again. And its now that we have found what works for this difficult to keep species. Its a lage part why you see an infulx of both keepers and true captive born animals. You should also take in to account the wild life span in contrast to our captive attempts. We are seeing a 300% life span increase because of these regiments so in that regard trying to mimic their natural habitat is not nessisarily the best thing to do for these guys. Just somthing to think about.

As for the temp drop, just make sure it dosent dip from 80 to mid 60's like i thought you had said. Thats a bit to much, a few degrees here and there is not bad at all and I dont see anything bad or good coming from it.

Good luck,
JG

Syst3m · 11-20-03, 12:07 PM

Thanks for the great info Julian,

As far as my temps go, they aren't mid 60's at night
they probably drop as low as 71 though. My room temps never drop below 68 so I can't see the cage temps being lower.
I was just referencing the fact that they could be kept during winter months at that kindf of temps.

So the night after I posted this topic, I found out why my snake was in a melancholy mood. The darn thing was just about to shed. But unfortunately my last 2 sheds have not been great. I've been misting her 2 times a day because of it and it doesn't seem to be helping. this shed was far worse then the last one and the humidity levels are much higher. The good news is the snake is as full of piss and vinegar as ever. She proved it by biting the crap out of me when I was trying to get some of the shed off of her face and tail.

I added a load of fake pothos plants to the cage in hopes that it would ease her sheeding next time. She really seems to be enjoying the new vivaria in the cage, and I'm hoping it will help her shed too.

Any suggestions on getting a good shed out of her this time?

Syst3m · 11-20-03, 05:06 PM

So after more reading and research from what I've read it says that feeding GTP during the shed cycle can cause bad sheds from stress. I wasn't able to identify that my GTP was in shed so I'm just going to have to keep a better eye out on her now so that this doesn't happen again. If I would have known she was in shed I would not have fed her

Yanis · 11-29-03, 11:21 AM

I don't advice you to put live plant because live plants increase the profliferation of parasites and bacteria who can be dangerous for your GTP.I advice you artificials plants

Memnoch · 11-29-03, 11:57 AM

Yanis: How does a clean live plant increase the growth of parasites and bacteria? If anything live plants, which are thriving, will compete for nutrients that the bacteria and parasites need, thus slowing their growth. The only way live plants will increase their growth rate is if you have rotting plants, but then again that's not really a live plant is it?