Some beginners questions for a Red-Tail Boa

[AwesomeGuy376]

Hey everyone, I had a few questions regarding my new snake as I'm a first time owner, I was hoping for some help
So the first thing I was wondering is feeding. I would like to feed him in his terrarium (I know there's controversy over it), but I'm more concerned with substrate getting on the Rat then him swallowing it. I've heard you can put the Rat on a plate (or dangle it over a plate so he thinks its alive) and he'll eat it without eating substrate. Anyways, I'd like to know what y'all have done. Also, the store i bought him from said he was due to be fed cause he hadn't been in 2 weeks, the guy there said he should with no problem. However, i tried feeding him last night and he wasn't even interested, in fact he almost moved away from it which kinda has me concerned (Really concerned). I bought him 2 days ago, and i feared it might be too soon, but hes 5 years old and the guy said he was used to all this so I don't know...
The next thing I would like to know is about his terrarium and if i'm doing it right. So I got him about a 2'x3' tank with Fir and Sphagnum substrate. The only problem I'm having is trying to keep it warm, its sat at 75 the past couple days and he has 2 heat lamps (one red and one white). The red one stays on all the time, and the white one is only on during the day. the humidity is sitting at 55-58 steady. I've tried the wet towel half way over the tank method, as well as spraying the tank, but nothing I do increases it Is there something I can do to fix this? I also wanted to know if i could add more branches and leaves without him getting annoyed. He has 2 large branches with a half-cut log, but over time I'd like to make a busy-looking habitat that resembles a rain-forest.
Next topic is kinda like the last, its about his water. So I've been using tap water with the drops that eliminate the harsh chemicals like chlorine. Now, I was wondering if i should do it for his spray as well, I did it today with the drops just to be sure before i get responses.
Next thing to ask you nice people, is about handling. So the previous owner works at the store I got him from, and was bragging about how docile he is. I did handle him a bit today and some yesterday (calm and sweet as always), and I asked the guy if he would get stressed and he said "not at all". But I'd like more opinions, he seems like a really sweet snake and hasn't tried to bite me yet. I was planning on handling a couple times a week to ensure he is still used to humans (and because I like spending time with him ) I was also curious if I should move his den (log) if hes in it to handle him, or if i should leave him alone when hes in there (he barely comes out). And all in all, I'd like some tips on how to avoid getting bit
The last thing is his health, I'm pretty sure hes healthy, but i don't know if I can afford to take him to vet visits (Don't know the prices yet). But i wanted to know how to tell if hes sick, cold, or uncomfortable in any way.
My Overall goal is to have him live the longest, happiest life he can possibly have. I'm really excited to have him and I've already gotten attached to him XD (didn't take long at all). And i know most of these things can be found on YouTube, but i like forum responses because i feel you guys are more real and have the experience. Plus I like being a part of the community and hearing what y'all have to say because I imagine you are all snake owners As I'm sure you can tell, I'm very nervous and want to make sure everything is the best it can be, I just want him to be happy and healthy

Ill attach a pic of him and his terrarium if any of you care

[pet_snake_78]

Incadescent bulbs tend to dry the air out pretty bad. If the room has very low humidity, I'd put a humidifier in the room (just remember to clean it as directed). If he uses hides, a humid and a dry hide would be a good idea. I cannot comment too much on your setup because I use tubs which are easier but not good for someone to watch their pet snake. Boas need to be at or over 80F to digest food properly. I have a 90F hotspot the size of their body but they mostly stay on the cool end high 70s so I feel both are important, they use the hotspot for a day or so after eating and periodically, though. Usually leaving the food infront of their hide works but I just food via tongs. Try feeding at night.

[LespaceSerpent]

To keep it warm I would recommend getting one of those under tank heating marks and a thermostat which will keep it warm for him, that way you can guarantee one side of his tank is high enough. Another thing I learned here to help with temp and humidity is to layer the area that isn't covered by lights with duct tape which seals it.

Some people like to wait until they are out of their hides bit my ball python doesn't seem to mind too much when I pick him up from his hide.

As for feeding what I do is I just lay down a piece of paper towel on his bedding to keep him from accidentally rolling his rat on the substrate.

[bigsnakegirl785]

I wouldn't worry about the substrate sticking to it, as long as your snake is properly hydrated and kept warm, it will easily pass whatever it swallows.

You should always wait a week after getting a new snake before offering any food, it likely refused because it was still stressed from the move.

At 5 years old, your boa only needs to eat every 3-6 weeks. 4 weeks being the best, 3 weeks being the absolute most often, and 6 weeks as the least often.

You need a hot spot of 88-90F and ambients no lower than 80F if possible, and no lower than 75F at the absolute coldest. Humidity should be 70-80%.

The only advice for raising humidity I can give you is ditching the tank and getting a modified tub or PVC. What you can do for now is cover 2/3 of the top with aluminum foil or cling wrap.

Here's a video of how I maintain humidity in my enclosures, I would advise doing the same since you're using EcoEarth. It will be much easier on you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=1O-JNnS6XfM

Make sure the bedding falls freely from your hands as demonstrated, and no water strains out. Doing this, I only have to do this maybe once every 1-2 weeks and I can easily keep it 70-80%. You may not have such luck with your tank, but blocking off as much airflow as you can may help.

For the temps, what is your room temp? You may have to heat the entire room to bring the temperature up, it's unusual that two heat lamps can't bring it above 75F. Are you using a digital thermometer, and where are you placing it?

There's no need to treat the water at all unless it's unsuitable for consumption, in which case you wouldn't be drinking it either.

You only got the snake 2 days ago and it hasn't eaten, you shouldn't be handling the snake whatsoever. Give it 7 days, offer food, and then wait until it takes 2-3 consecutive meals without hesitation before you begin handling it. Snakes stress easily, and your boa has already refused food, I'd back off it for the time being.

[EL Ziggy]

Welcome and best wishes AG. Congrats on your new addiction. I don't keep boas so I can't help their specific husbandry needs but once you get your temps and humidity dialed in properly your snake should thrive.

[dannybgoode]

How big is your snake. At 5 years old I'd imagine he's going to be 5' +. I don't think a 3x2 Viv it's big enough for him and you'll struggle to get the right temperature gradient dialed in.

There should be a hot spot around 90f and the cool end dropping too the very high 70's. To achieve this you really need a ceramic heater our radiant heat panel either of which must be controlled by a thermostat.

Also it's probably a bit soon to be trying to feed him. Give him a good 5 - 10 days to settle in. An adult boa only needs feeding every 3-6 weeks so giving him time to settle won't harm him at all.

[AwesomeGuy376]

Originally Posted by bigsnakegirl785

I wouldn't worry about the substrate sticking to it, as long as your snake is properly hydrated and kept warm, it will easily pass whatever it swallows.

You should always wait a week after getting a new snake before offering any food, it likely refused because it was still stressed from the move.

At 5 years old, your boa only needs to eat every 3-6 weeks. 4 weeks being the best, 3 weeks being the absolute most often, and 6 weeks as the least often.

You need a hot spot of 88-90F and ambients no lower than 80F if possible, and no lower than 75F at the absolute coldest. Humidity should be 70-80%.

The only advice for raising humidity I can give you is ditching the tank and getting a modified tub or PVC. What you can do for now is cover 2/3 of the top with aluminum foil or cling wrap.

Here's a video of how I maintain humidity in my enclosures, I would advise doing the same since you're using EcoEarth. It will be much easier on you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=1O-JNnS6XfM

Make sure the bedding falls freely from your hands as demonstrated, and no water strains out. Doing this, I only have to do this maybe once every 1-2 weeks and I can easily keep it 70-80%. You may not have such luck with your tank, but blocking off as much airflow as you can may help.

For the temps, what is your room temp? You may have to heat the entire room to bring the temperature up, it's unusual that two heat lamps can't bring it above 75F. Are you using a digital thermometer, and where are you placing it?

There's no need to treat the water at all unless it's unsuitable for consumption, in which case you wouldn't be drinking it either.

You only got the snake 2 days ago and it hasn't eaten, you shouldn't be handling the snake whatsoever. Give it 7 days, offer food, and then wait until it takes 2-3 consecutive meals without hesitation before you begin handling it. Snakes stress easily, and your boa has already refused food, I'd back off it for the time being.

Thanks for your long response! Anyways, I went back to the store and asked about the temp, and he just gave me another heat lamp which actually worked. I also asked him about the feeding, which he agreed with you, but he also said that i should handle him lightly just to make sure hes still docile so idk .-. But thanks so much for all this info!

[AwesomeGuy376]

Originally Posted by dannybgoode

How big is your snake. At 5 years old I'd imagine he's going to be 5' +. I don't think a 3x2 Viv it's big enough for him and you'll struggle to get the right temperature gradient dialed in.

There should be a hot spot around 90f and the cool end dropping too the very high 70's. To achieve this you really need a ceramic heater our radiant heat panel either of which must be controlled by a thermostat.

Also it's probably a bit soon to be trying to feed him. Give him a good 5 - 10 days to settle in. An adult boa only needs feeding every 3-6 weeks so giving him time to settle won't harm him at all.

Well, hes a dwarf, so hes only about 3.5 ft. I just got what the guy told me to get at the store soooo yeah. Ive managed to fix the heating problem with another heat lamp, its now 90 below it and 77 in the cold part of the cage during night. Im also following the feeding advice, im just gonna feed him on the 1st and 15th of every month and hopefully its good . Thanks so much for responding!

[AwesomeGuy376]

Thank all of you guys on your responses, i really appreciate it! Y'all have helped a lot! Still one thing I'm kinda stuck on is handling :L Someone told me not to do it for a couple weeks, but the previous owner told me to do it lightly a couple times a week, even when settling in.. so I'm just gonna leave him alone for a couple days until i get more opinions

[dannybgoode]

Let him settle in for a good couple of weeks. Maybe longer. He's in a new environment and needs time to settle and get used to his surroundings.

With a younger snake allowing two feeds with no issues id's a good rule of thumb. With your guy I'd leave out a week before you try to feed him then at least another 5 days afterward.

In any event don't handle a snake within 48 hours of feeding ( some say 24 hours but I prefer to leave them longer).

Keep the questions coming...

[bigsnakegirl785]

Originally Posted by AwesomeGuy376

Thanks for your long response! Anyways, I went back to the store and asked about the temp, and he just gave me another heat lamp which actually worked. I also asked him about the feeding, which he agreed with you, but he also said that i should handle him lightly just to make sure hes still docile so idk .-. But thanks so much for all this info!

Yes, you can handle, but not until he starts eating.

When the snake has successfully taken 2-3 consecutive meals without refusing, then you may begin handling the snake. 2-3 times a week should be sufficient, and how long those sessions are depends on the snake's attitude.

If it is uncomfortable with you and striking, biting, hissing, or posturing at you, keep the handling sessions no more than 15 minutes or whenever the snake stops hissing/biting/posturing. You don't want to stress them out, but you also don't want to encourage defensive behavior.

If it's perfectly chill and doesn't seem to mind, I would start out with 15-30 minute sessions and once you've had it a few months and gotten a feel for it you can have slightly longer sessions.

Again, snakes stress from handling, so you don't want to overdo it. But snakes also don't revert to a defensive personality simply because you don't handle them if they started out already docile.

Handling is not necessary whatsoever in the keeping of snakes, it is for your benefit only.

[dannybgoode]

Originally Posted by bigsnakegirl785

Yes, you can handle, but not until he starts eating.

When the snake has successfully taken 2-3 consecutive meals without refusing, then you may begin handling the snake. 2-3 times a week should be sufficient, and how long those sessions are depends on the snake's attitude.

If it is uncomfortable with you and striking, biting, hissing, or posturing at you, keep the handling sessions no more than 15 minutes or whenever the snake stops hissing/biting/posturing. You don't want to stress them out, but you also don't want to encourage defensive behavior.

If it's perfectly chill and doesn't seem to mind, I would start out with 15-30 minute sessions and once you've had it a few months and gotten a feel for it you can have slightly longer sessions.

Again, snakes stress from handling, so you don't want to overdo it. But snakes also don't revert to a defensive personality simply because you don't handle them if they started out already docile.

Handling is not necessary whatsoever in the keeping of snakes, it is for your benefit only.

For an adult boa personally I wouldn't wait 2 or 3 maps simply due to the length of fine between feeds. Could be 18 weeks our so.

A juvenile sure because feeds are much more frequent.

5-7 days settling in, feed and then another 5-10 days post feed should be plenty.

Other than that I would agree with your other handling comments...

[bigsnakegirl785]

Originally Posted by dannybgoode

For an adult boa personally I wouldn't wait 2 or 3 maps simply due to the length of fine between feeds. Could be 18 weeks our so.

A juvenile sure because feeds are much more frequent.

5-7 days settling in, feed and then another 5-10 days post feed should be plenty.

Other than that I would agree with your other handling comments...

I am only suggesting this because the snake has already refused food, we want to be sure it's eating before we handle. If it's already showing an inclination to not eat, it could further reinforce it's food refusal. It's simply a matter of patience on the owner's end, and won't affect the snake in a permanent way.

[dannybgoode]

I would be happy handling an adult boa after 1 successful feed, ganets that they are. Not much will put a boa off once it's started again.

Say a ball or another tricky feeder not so much.

[bigsnakegirl785]

Originally Posted by dannybgoode

I would be happy handling an adult boa after 1 successful feed, ganets that they are. Not much will put a boa off once it's started again.

Say a ball or another tricky feeder not so much.

Yes, but it's worrisome when a boa refuses food, because they're usually garbage disposals. Even if the snake ate the day before, chances are it would still eat, and they don't normally stress out as easily as other snakes.

I brought my sunglow on a 3 hour drive, sat in a restaurant for an hour, and did quick a weighing and picture shoot when I got home, and still did not have a refusal when I later that day. My retic had an hour drive and ate soon after, I've had snakes shipped that ate the same day or 6 days later.

If they had brought the boa home, and it had eaten on the first try then yes, I'd say give it 2-3 days after it eats and then handle. That is not what happened here, so I am suggesting to make sure it's eating first. I have seen cases of boas acting just like ball pythons, so it will be for the better of OP's mind to simply give it time to settle in, especially since OP is a beginner and likely not used to the idea of snakes fasting for months on end.