Corn snake won't eat

QuercusE36 · 12-24-15, 04:46 AM

Hi, I'm new to the forum and have been a proud snake owner for 3 months now.
I have a corn snake (12 yo) and a boa constrictor imperator (15 yo) and suddenly the corn snake stopped eating. He's on a 10ish day feeding cycle and ate really well after first adopting him. Then suddenly he stopped eating bit has also gotten quite nippy. He not my niece and wouldn't let go, would bite at the water dish and today bit me as well. I assume he's hungry if he's nippy but won't accept food like before.

Things I've considered:
Nippy because hungry-won't eat mice like before
Doesn't prefer white mice-that's all he ate until recently. Gave him a black mouse and after 3 weeks of not eating he ate it. But today he didn't accept the black mouse.
Might be shedding-This finicky behavior has been going on for over a month and a half now and he hasn't so much as had clouded eyes or turned blue.
Metabolism slows down during winter-both snakes are kept in the garage (I'm in Olympia so it will never get close to freezing in the garage, not to mention the 100watt lights that are supplying adequate heat.

So, if my snake isn't hungry and isn't accepting food, why does it keep biting?

**EL Ziggy** · 12-26-15, 06:37 PM

What are the temps inside your enclosure? Do you feed live or f/t? If f/t, how are you thawing and presenting the prey items? It could be the colder temps. Lots of snakes take food breaks during the winter months. He could also be going into shed like you mentioned. Make sure your husbandry is dialed in and keep offering food every 10 days until he's back on track. As long as he's not losing a lot of weight I wouldn't be too concerned yet.

nils · 12-26-15, 10:54 PM

he may be wanting to go into brumation if he's ten years old. Read about it and set him up in a brumation chamber for about 12 weeks. He should come out of it looking for a girl snake and a good meal.

QuercusE36 · 12-27-15, 01:52 AM

Thanks El-Ziggy,

On the warm side the enclosure is at 81 and the colder side is at 65. I've only ever fed it frozen thawed and the previous owner said he has only eaten frozen thawed. I still don't believe he's in shedding mode yet, but maybe he's taking a while...
I wonder if maybe he's just hunkering down for the winter? He really doesn't get out and look around much and pretty much stays in the exact same spot, which was mostly on the cool side until I moved the light over. I wondered if it was too cold to gain an appetite, but didn't move over to the warm side because it didn't like the hide that was there. I changed the set up a bit to provide a better hide on both sides and now it stays on the warm end. I'm hoping that helps with his appetite.
Thanks again

Albert Clark · 12-27-15, 03:00 AM

Since he is already at the point where his stomach is empty why don't you consider brumating him for a few months? Then when you bring him out you will have reset his feeding clock. Hope this helped. Oh! Welcome to the forum

**EL Ziggy** · 12-27-15, 12:15 PM

If you're not brumating him for the winter I'd raise his temps a bit. Try bumping your warm side up to 86-88 and bring the cool side up to 75ish. Again, he could just be taking a food break but I'd definitely warm him up a bit. What are you using as a heat source and is it controlled by a thermostat? Let's see a picture of your set up if you can.

QuercusE36 · 12-28-15, 01:51 AM

I guess I hadn't considered brumation intentionally, but if the temperatures are too low I don't really have a choice right? I have to admit, after my last post i put a thermometer in the enclosure and on the warm side it read only 72!! So, he's definitely brumating, and perhaps that's why he's been nippy when I've pulled him out? I imagine going in and out of brumation would be stressful.

The enclosure is certainly not sophisticated by any means. I acquired the entire setup for free and the only modification was I put a larger brooding lamp on it and added a second hide. It isn't controlled by a thermostat and I keep the light on one side 24/7. I know it's better to allow the lights to go out to mimic nature, but I don't have a non-light heat source as of yet. The previous owner said that's what she did for the 12 years she had him, but it didn't seem right. I'm considering taking him to work to put in my office so it's not in the cold garage.

On a side note, do boas not Brumate? Obviously being a tropical species they shouldn't in nature, but if forced to I wonder if they would. His set up is right next to my corn snake's and he has no problem downing a jumbo rat every two weeks.

**EL Ziggy** · 12-28-15, 06:21 PM

Brumating him is definitely a choice but I don't know why you'd do it if you're not breeding the animal. Are you keeping him in a tub or tank? Either way I'd suggest getting the following equipment. An under tank heater, a thermostat, and temp gun. These items will be essential to controlling and monitoring your temps. If it's too hot or too cold it can cause your snake not to eat. And if the snake does eat these issues could cause a regurgitation which you really don't want.

Ultratherm Heat Pads

Amazon.com : Jump Start MTPRTC, Digital ETL-Certified Heat Mat Thermostat for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing : Plant Germination Heating Mats : Patio, Lawn & Garden

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss...wngarden%2C293

reptiledude987 · 12-28-15, 07:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EL-Ziggy

Brumating him is definitely a choice but I don't know why you'd do it if you're not breeding the animal.

When the season comes I cool my room so some that I have no pair for or intention of breeding go to burmation as well. I personally dont mind reduced feeding schedules on my adults. However anything I have that isnt yet at adult size/age continues to maintain normal temps and feeding schedule.

**EL Ziggy** · 12-28-15, 08:18 PM

Copy that RD. I respect the choice to brumate your animals but what's the objective or benefits?