Trouble Feeding Python

[KBHicks2012]

First off I want to say that I do know how majority of the members here feel about life feeding, and I do feel the same which is my concern with my WLp.

A few months ago I added a beautiful white lipped python to my collection. Sadly he does have a few scars on him from being fed live in the past and I har triedy hardest to switch him from Live feeding but he will not take it. I have tried both freshly killed and frozen, he will strike the prey when presented with tongs, but as soon as he wraps and does not feel any life he releases and ignores the fact it is even there anymore.

Currently I am having to flick the mice in the head and paralyze them to where he will still constrict and kill the prey himself. But I was curious to know of anyone else has encountered issues like this before in their collection. I would love to get him switched over to frozen but sadly I don't think I will be able to switch him over anymore. Any help greatly appreciated....thank you

[smy_749]

Why dont you just hold it with tongs after he grabs and coils, and shake it around/tug on it so he thinks hes winning the fight. OR you can get a long airline tube for fish tank co2 or something, put it in your mouses rear end and let him attack the dead mouse. Then you can blow into the other end to stimulate breathing :D:D

[stephanbakir]

you can get a long airline tube for fish tank co2 or something, put it in your mouses rear end and let him attack the dead mouse. Then you can blow into the other end to stimulate breathing :D:D

Not sure where you got that idea.. But it sounds like a terrible idea... Mice can't expand that much, and who wants to taste that... There are far better ways. Waiting the snake out is generally one of them.


Also, when a snake coils, then releases right away its generally associated with defensive behavior. I'd give him the rat til he coils then leave the room.


I waited 5 months for one of my snakes to take f/t, eventually they will get hungry enough and make the switch.

[smy_749]

Not sure where you got that idea.. But it sounds like a terrible idea... Mice can't expand that much, and who wants to taste that... There are far better ways. Waiting the snake out is generally one of them.


Also, when a snake coils, then releases right away its generally associated with defensive behavior. I'd give him the rat til he coils then leave the room.


I waited 5 months for one of my snakes to take f/t, eventually they will get hungry enough and make the switch.

It was a joke bro hahaha I hope nobody would try that. The good part is if you want it to expand and contract, you can suck all that mouse air back up.:wacky:

[KBHicks2012]

I was sure hoping that it was a joke, and that you were not sittin at home blowin' your mice. ;)

I have just really feared that I will be unable to get him to switch over since he does not strike properly hints all his feeding scars

[smy_749]

I was sure hoping that it was a joke, and that you were not sittin at home blowin' your mice. ;)

I have just really feared that I will be unable to get him to switch over since he does not strike properly hints all his feeding scars

or hints that the previous owner was leaving the mice in the cage unmonitored. It doesn't neccessary mean that they don't strike properly, unless you've witnessed it. Instinct usually takes over unless there is some other issue at hand (nerve wise or vision or something).

Anyways like stephen said, you would be surprised how long they can go without food, and be very stubborn. Just keep at it. Have you tried to leave it in the cage (dead not live) and go somewhere else? Or shutting off the lights works for some species.

[KBHicks2012]

I have witnessed him with poor, improper strikes getting the prey towards the hind legs leaving the head open to bite. When I had first gotten him, he had what seemed to be numerous eye caps still covering his right eye, which I know would have alot to do with strikes probably, but none the less I hate taking the chance of him getting hurt, and his prey size will only continue to grow along with chance of increasing danger of getting bit.

I will continue striving to switch him over week by week util he finally decided a he is hungry enough to take it down.

[Terranaut]

Have you left the prey overnight (f/t)?
Try that. Might be gone by morning. If that doesn't work try braining the prey first. There are many things you can do so be patient. Your snake will not starve any time soon.

[KBHicks2012]

I have left dead in the enclosure over night with him and was still there in the morning. I have not tried a completely dark cage, since at night I use a red bulb

[smy_749]

I have witnessed him with poor, improper strikes getting the prey towards the hind legs leaving the head open to bite. When I had first gotten him, he had what seemed to be numerous eye caps still covering his right eye, which I know would have alot to do with strikes probably, but none the less I hate taking the chance of him getting hurt, and his prey size will only continue to grow along with chance of increasing danger of getting bit.

I will continue striving to switch him over week by week util he finally decided a he is hungry enough to take it down.

That doesn't always work with snakes from what I know. They may very well starve themselves to death on occasion. Just recheck your temps, humidity, etc. etc. and try random stuff like leaving it in his cage for a while and shutting off the lights. He is feeding on live, which is fine, but maybe there is something else other than pickyness causing the issue , you never know. Best of luck and keep us updated.

[stephanbakir]

Avoid any stress, don't handle him til he's eating.

[KBHicks2012]

Thank you everyone for all your help and opinions. Here's a quick picture of my little big man
http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b587/kbhicks2012/FDFD9AD2-F293-4113-A886-4414CD1637ED-224-0000001AA1DA794D_zps552bbc21.jpg

[smy_749]

very nice, he seems to be on the lighter side

[KBHicks2012]

I actually need to move him up to small rats, he has been eating two adult mice weekly right now.

[stephanbakir]

very nice, he seems to be on the lighter side

Lighter as in color or weight?

[smy_749]

Lighter as in color or weight?

color, maybe its just lightning idk

[stephanbakir]

color, maybe its just lightning idk

There are quite a few localities of white lipped pythons, some are almost black, and some are almost silver, and even golds and reds, highly variable :)

[Tchambers]

My WLP doesn't like to eat off the tongs because he is really shy and if he knows someone is in the room then he just wants to hide. So what I do is put a f/t rat in his cage and turn all the lights off so his cage is completely dark and every time I come back it's gone. I like doing this with him because it prevents him from building food aggression (which I heard is common in these guys). Hope this helps.

[Mark Taylor]

I would try Chucks method it works for 2 of my boa's that don't strike feed.

[marvelfreak]

I have just really feared that I will be unable to get him to switch over since he does not strike properly hints all his feeding scars

WLP tend to have softer skin than other pythons. So they tend to scar easier. Probably something to do with them being water pythons. Mine got one from wrapping around his hide when i picked him up.

Thank you everyone for all your help and opinions. Here's a quick picture of my little big man
http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b587/kbhicks2012/FDFD9AD2-F293-4113-A886-4414CD1637ED-224-0000001AA1DA794D_zps552bbc21.jpg

Stunning little guy you got there.


There are quite a few localities of white lipped pythons, some are almost black, and some are almost silver, and even golds and reds, highly variable :)
This one looks like a Gold or Northern. But the can change colors. Just like some bloods Pythons heads will get darker when stressed or in feed mode. My WLP will go from Gold to, a goldish green to, black if stressed or pissed off.

[KBHicks2012]

WLP tend to have softer skin than other pythons. So they tend to scar easier. Probably something to do with them being water pythons. Mine got one from wrapping around his hide when i picked him up.



Stunning little guy you got there.



This one looks like a Gold or Northern. But the can change colors. Just like some bloods Pythons heads will get darker when stressed or in feed mode. My WLP will go from Gold to, a goldish green to, black if stressed or pissed off.

Thank you very much, I feel that he and I have extremely bonded since I got him, and look forward to every chance that he will allow me the privilege of me being able to hold him. I had never heard of the softer skin before but makes sense. I have tried the f/t over night and dark cage but still not taking. I curently still having to flick the prey in the head and stun/paralyze them for safe feeding.

He is not as golden as some that I have seen, and actually seems to grow darker after each shed, but his colors still amaze me!

[Theweinz]

Wow, beautiful snake. Good luck with the feeding dilemma. I have a small Blood Python I am trying to switch to FT and have had no luck as of yet.

[KBHicks2012]

Wow, beautiful snake. Good luck with the feeding dilemma. I have a small Blood Python I am trying to switch to FT and have had no luck as of yet.

Thank you very much, I have still been unable to make the switch to F/T, currently we are still going with the flick & stun meathod