A few MORE questions...

[Tim_Cranwill]

Well, it turns out instead of just baby sitting a Leopard Gecko, I have one to keep now (thanks to a generous gift from "Littledelgado/Damon" :) ). So, if anyone can answer these questions, I'd really appreciate it:)

1. Do Leopard Geckos turn blue like snakes before they shed and do they shed in one piece?
2. I am currently using some type of calcium sand (I forget the actual name) as a substrate. Is there any thing better?
3. I am heating the 10gal tank the gecko is in with a day-glow and a night-glow bulb. As soon as I get more heat tape (next week) I could also have some UTH going on. Is this enough, not enough or too much heat? Any tips would be great.
4. Can anyone post some pics of their set ups?
5. Not a question but, links to any good care sheets would be super helpful;)

Thanks for the help guys:)

p.s. I am borrowing a copy of the Leopard Gecko Manual tonight, so hopefully I won't be asking too many more "Silly" questions.

[jakejeff]

2. paper towel

3. you don't need the day glo bulb as leo's are nocturnal just use the night glo 24/7. as for temps just place a therm probe over the warm side and check temps 86 to 89 is ideal. when you get your heat tape you prob will not need any bulbs just make sure your temps are o.k

5. My best suggestion would be to get "the leopard gecko manual" it is the best book on leo's I have read. Also be carefull with care sheets on the net cause when I first got my leo's I found out the hard way that they are not alway's 100% correct :(

have fun with your new orphan's :)

[Rebecca]

Geckos turn kinda dull in color kinda grey right before they shed. You'll know when their ready to shed. You won't see the shed they eat it. I've never actually seen my gecko shed so I'm not sure about the one piece thing. Use a UTH 24/7 and a heat lamp on during the day. Day temps should be around 90 on the hot side and around 75-80 on the cool side. At night if you have a UTH don't worry about anyother heat unless it goes below 70. Don't use sand for a substrate. It can harm them. Also leave a small dish of calcium in the tank all the time, they like it. I think that does it.

[asphyxia]

Hi Cranwell

For what its worth?

http://www.ssnakess.com/photopost/data/500/985ts-_get_me_outta_here.jpg


Good Luck
Brian

[SnowSnake]

heres an old picture of my 10gal setup, theres a UTH but we dont see it. <img src="http://snowsnake.magazoo.com/Whippet/Terra/terra_avec_lampe005.jpg">this pic is to show the lamp but the other things arent clear.


<img src="http://snowsnake.magazoo.com/Whippet/Terra/terra_sans_lampe004.jpg">In this picture you can see how I placed my things. But plz note that I dont use calci-sand anymore and I have a humid hide in there 24/7.


cya,
SnowSnake

[Tim_Cranwill]

Ok, the lady at the store, I know you guys know better;), told me that the calcium sand would be safe to use and would "help" the gecko get more calcium. If you guys say to ditch it, I will.

What would be my best option out of newspaper, paper towel, aspen and pine?

[SnowSnake]

Paper towels all they way!!!!!

with the calci-sand there is still some sand, its not only calcium. so the leo could like it and eat so much that he gets an impaction.

so go safe, go paper towels :D

cya,
SnowSnake

[Rebecca]

I use paper towel in all my geckos homes. Also ya I forgot you should have a humid hide in there 24/7. They're easy to make just get a tupperware container and I melted a hole in the side and smoothed it down, then I filled it with some dirt stuff, I can't remember the name.

[Tim_Cranwill]

Yeah, I have a humid hide :)

[jakejeff]

paper towel is 100% the safest also slate is safe and looks really natural. Home depot sells slate tiles for 3 bucks for a 12x12 or they can cut it to size. I used it but found it got really hot but I just ordered a thermostat to fix that problem

[asphyxia]

Well, Not that I want to get any flack but the truth is I have been using "Play Sand" for 4+ years now without any problems whatsoever , I also checked it out with some people "in the now" and they said its fine and would not expect any impaction problems at all. it also is easy to clean via a net sifter. Just my 02 cents worth, by the way I have no problem changing if in fact I am wrong, I just liks a more natural surrounding for both mine and the herps enjoyment

Brian

[Alicewave]

I have also not heard too many bad things about play sand. The grain is very fine. Even finer than calcisand. Also the fact that it does NOT contain calcium is better in my book since it is less tempting for leos to lick. I still don't consider it natural by any means since Leos don't naturally live in sandy areas but if you want to use sand, play sand is probably the safest.

[Kat]

From what I hear, Clean playsand if ok for adult leo's, but not that good for babies seeing as they're so clumsy and miss their food target. I use papertowel myself and find it to be pretty easy. And cheap ;)

[Clownfishie]

1. You'll notice your leo looking kinda dull and grey/white right before they shed -- sometimes ;) Sometimes you won't even see that much, and they'll do it all without you even noticing -- that's why it's important to have the humid hide going at all times. Leos will (in most cases) eat their shed, so if you don't see the dullness, you might not even know that it's happened. So don't worry if you don't see him shedding, as long as he's still eating, drinking, pooping etc. normally.

2. I don't like calci-sand in general -- they say that it dissolves in their digestive tract, but I've seen studies that have proved otherwise. I have, on the other hand, used Repti-Sand -- a very fine grained sand sold at the pet store... and I haven't had any problems with it. That being said, I wouldn't use sand on a gecko any younger than 6 months, and closer to a year might be preferable. They tend to be clumsy hunters, and can sometimes end up swallowing quite a bit of sand with their meals.
I'd use either paper towel or newspaper... or if you want something a little more natural looking, go with ReptiCarpet (also sold at the pet store).

3. For heating, I prefer using a UTH... the belly heat helps with digestion. For light I just use an incandescent bulb (15-40W) on for 12 hours a day... depending on the wattage of the bulb, this can also help raise the temp on the warm side of your tank if needed. You *can* use a night-glo bulb at night if you wish, but a bit of a nightime drop in temp isn't a big deal.. if you're not using a UTH however, then you would want to use the night-glow bulb.

4 & 5. I've got pics of all my setups posted on my website http://www.geocities.com/geckohaven under "Tanks", and there's also a care sheet on there for leos under the "Information" section...

HTH :)
Jen

[jakejeff]

Is it me but 2 of my 3 leo's are clumsy eaters still and they are almost full grown?

[Clownfishie]

I'm sure that they're fine ... some leos are just more coordinated than others ;) As long as they manage to get the food eventually, that's the main thing... All leos will misfire sometimes though...

[Samba]

I have my leopards set up this way:

1.) The tanks have undertank heaters (UTH) which is basically self-explanitory. It is a warming device that is plugged into a regular wall socket, and conveniently sits (or can be applied with adhesive) under the tank (not IN it! And yes, I've seen it done!.) Not only do they have UTHs, they also have halogen lights (set up at a distance) to create ambiant heat. It's important to note that halogens generally aren't recommended because if close enough, they can melt plastic and crack aquarium tanks. So use with caution if you plan on getting these.

2.) In the tanks, I have found that paper towels are near perfect for leos, but I actually love to use a product called "Lizard Litter". "Lizard Litter" is a plant based litter (like the name implies) that is digestable, absorbant, easy to clean, won't harbor bacteria (deadly to most reptiles) and doesn't form molds when saturated. It's also great for two other reasons: 1.) it's aesthetic (looks good) and 2.) Leos love to dig! I don't know about the rest of you, but my Leos ("Girl" and "Darwin") tear up the paper towels digging. "Lizard Litter" also provides an opportunity to 'enrich' your geckos. Enrichment makes them happier by giving them something to look forward to, and eases bordom (yes, I am THAT deep and my geckos are very much spoiled). How I enrich them is this: When I clean their tank I usually let them run around and have some fun in the room. I like to drop in the substrate (the "Lizard Litter") a few mealworms. The mealworms will bury themselves and surface later allowing the Leos to have a snack when I'm not around. It also encourages them to dig (excercise) and I believe it stimulates them mentally. (Hey imagine if YOU were stuck in your room all day with nothing to do!)

The rest of the tanks consist of: 1.) A regular hiding place (situated near, but not directly over, the UTH); 2.) a shallow bowl of water (refilled daily because the halogen lamp tends to evaporate it); 3.) a "toilet" (you can utilize the geckos' natural tendancy to designate one spot in the tank as the 'bathroom'). This is how you make the "toilet" : get a shallow box (I used a greeting cards box lid because it is rectangular, not very deep and disposable); line the box inside with aluminum foil (not sure if it harms the geckos in any way but my vet said it should be safe), allow the foil to completely line the bottom and the insides of the box, folding the foil over the rim. Cut and place paper towels (or "Lizard Litter") inside the box, covering most of the foil. Place "toilet" in the area they usually deficate. This method is efficently contained (ever try picking up a million little pieces of gecko feces?) easy to clean and resituate, and I have found my geckos won't enter the 'bathroom' unless they intend to use it so that means their little hands and feet are that much cleaner when you handle them. 4.) My geckos also have in the tank a "shedding box" (no geckos don't turn "blue", but they do tend to 'fade' as shedding time approaches). The box is a butter bowl (thoroughly cleaned) with hole (big enough to allow entrance for the geckos) cut in the side. Inside there is "Frog Moss" which traps humidity and moisture, and I place this on the opposite side of the UTH. One last thing: I provide a shallow lid with "Rep-Cal" (an excellent phosphorus-free calcium suppliment) in it. The geckos will lick the calcium like horses and cows lick 'salt-licks'. To be sure, you should dust your crickets at minimum once a week with the Rep-Cal to make sure they get it. Well, I've written a book here, but if anyone has questions or comments please don't hesitate to e-mail me (SambasReptileRescue@Hotmail.Com). Thanks, and I hope I've been helpful. Good Luck!

[peregrinefalcon]

I'll post a pic of my set-up probably tomorrow if I can get my computer working :) It's a 35 gallon with slate substrate. And I'll post some pics of my gecko Ying.
Adam