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TheSuppishOne

03-19-13, 12:03 PM

Hey everybody. Thank you again for all the helpful answers you've given me thus far. It's saved me a lot of hassle.

Now I just need to put together a checklist of things I need to finally get the snake. I'll start the list with what I know I need, feel free to add things. =]

1. Enclosure (duh). I'm going PVC. I have two questions here, though. Are there advantages towards having a white versus black cage? Also, is 12" really sufficient, or is 16+" preferable?

2. Thermostat. This one (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NZZG3S/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER) seems nice.

3. Heating pad. This one (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E3DDP2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER) to go with the thermostat.

4. Heat lamp. Not sure what I need here. Any suggestions?

5. Thermometer/Hygrometer. This (http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Economy-Thermometer-Humidity/dp/B004PBB1JE/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1363715526&sr=1-4&keywords=heat+lamp) is cheap and has pretty awesome reviews so far...

6. Misc. Hides, branches, water bowl... Pretty easy.

7. Substrate. I've seen a lot of people using newspaper, and others using actual earth-like stuff. Again, any recommendations?

And I think that rounds up the list. If I missed anything, you're welcome to chime in!

=D

TheSuppishOne

03-19-13, 12:07 PM

Oh! Maybe a separate feeding bin. I'm thinking that just a large plastic tub will suffice, but you don't want to feed a snake in it's main enclosure, right? I've heard that leads to biting...

Aaron_S

03-19-13, 12:21 PM

stephanbakir

03-19-13, 12:22 PM

Don't bother with a separate feeding bin, it really does nothing in terms of taming an animal down. The only time they actually become useful is with a snake that has feeding issues and needs to be confined with their food.

Get a Herpstat ND thermostat,

Any heat pad will do, make sure its aprox 30% the length of the cage.

16' depth would be better, especially as your animal grows.

Black doesn't stain as badly as white...

Substrate depends on the species, which did you chose?

Don't bother with a heat lamp in a PVC enclosure unless the enclosure is built for it.

TheSuppishOne

03-19-13, 12:35 PM

Wow. Those Herpstat thermostats are really expensive...

I meant 16+" in height. I'm looking at 48"long x 24" deep x12+" tall. Those seem to be the most common sizes.

And wait. I don't need a heat lamp if I have a heating pad? So...just a regular florescent light will do?

I'm still deciding on the species. You guys are recommending the carpet pythons, and while those get bigger than what I'm wanting and their eyes aren't nearly as awesome as the boas (as you said! =D), the better temperament is worth looking into.

stephanbakir

03-19-13, 12:43 PM

Yeh, let the heating pad do the heating, and use lights that don't emit much heat for when you want to look at them.

A cheap thermostat = dead animals... buy a good one. I meant 16' high. It will let you put in more decor.

Hurrok

03-19-13, 12:44 PM

Majority of snakes don't need a lamp, especially if you have a heat mat or tape. One source is plenty :)

I have the Hydrofarm Thermostat and it works fine.

shaunyboy

03-19-13, 01:18 PM

Oh! Maybe a separate feeding bin. I'm thinking that just a large plastic tub will suffice, but you don't want to feed a snake in it's main enclosure, right? I've heard that leads to biting...

^^^^^
i'm not being cheeky

the myth that feeding in the tank leads to the snake associating,the door opening with being fed,so bites everytime the door opens.....

apply that SAME LOGIC to taking a snake out and feeding in a seperate tub...

then surely the snake would then associate being taken out with feeding,so bites everytime it gets taken out,no?

its a total load of crap that one mate

its down to the individual snakes temprement,as to whether they're biters or not

cheers shaun

rmfsnakes32

03-19-13, 01:38 PM

Don't forget to establish a rodent supplier.

Terranaut

03-19-13, 02:05 PM

Checklist for First Timer
Hey everybody. Thank you again for all the helpful answers you've given me thus far. It's saved me a lot of hassle.

Now I just need to put together a checklist of things I need to finally get the snake. I'll start the list with what I know I need, feel free to add things. =]

1. Enclosure (duh). I'm going PVC. I have two questions here, though. Are there advantages towards having a white versus black cage? Also, is 12" really sufficient, or is 16+" preferable?

Most size stuff depends on species. If you get a boa get the 16"

2. Thermostat. This one seems nice.

I use hydrafarms and have never had an issue but they click loud turning on/off. Better is better if your budget allows. but a thermostat is a must.

3. Heating pad. This one to go with the thermostat.

Heat pads are ok I would personally get a radiant heat panel

4. Heat lamp. Not sure what I need here. Any suggestions?

not needed or wanted ...trust me .

5. Thermometer/Hygrometer. This is cheap and has pretty awesome reviews so far...

This is where you need a good a accurate read so don't cheap out here.

6. Misc. Hides, branches, water bowl... Pretty easy.

Yup at least 2 hides and for a boa get stuff to climb

7. Substrate. I've seen a lot of people using newspaper, and others using actual earth-like stuff. Again, any recommendations?

Aspen works good but there are better things out there. Search on this site to find out what suits you.

And I think that rounds up the list. If I missed anything, you're welcome to chime in!

=D

Rogue628

03-19-13, 02:08 PM

Feeding them in a separate bin for...blah..blah..blah...is pretty much a myth.

In the past I have fed in a feeding bin. The last few years I feed inside their enclosures. I get a better feeding response feeding them in an area they feel safe and secure in. I have and have had animals that would not eat in a feeding bin. Why? They didn't feel safe. Plus it can put stress on them later by moving them to their home with fresh food in their bellies. Snakes don't need to be handled for at least 2 days after feeding, depending upon how quick they digest their food.

Also, snakes are a bit more intelligent than what most people give them credit for. If you don't want them to associate feeding time vs handling time, put them on a strict schedule. They will eventually learn what feeding day is. Another way to do it is to have something you can touch their heads with before picking them up. They will learn that touching them on the head means they're going to have some sort of human interaction. If you're going to hook train, you can use the hook to touch them. I use a paper towel insert to touch mine on their heads and it works just as well. I use this trick with new ones until they learn when feed day is, etc.

Like Shaun said, it's going to come down the the individual snake, their temperament, and their trust bond with you. This bond is very important, especially if you're wanting to have an animal you can work with.

Thermostat: the one you linked to I have never heard of. I use this one: Vivarium Electronics VE-100 - Reptile Basics Inc (http://www.reptilebasics.com/ve-100) it's a cheaper model of some of the more well known ones, but I don't plan to use it forever. I think it's good for starting but I will eventually switch it out to something much better. A thermostat is usually the most expensive but the most important piece of equipment you'll need for you snake. Don't cheap out on the thermostat.

Please don't use that analog thing for a thermometer/hygrometer. Acurite has one that I've been using with no issues. It even has a probe. I found mine at the local Wal Mart AcuRite Digital Thermometer with Temperature Sensor Probe and Humidity / Clock 00891W3 (http://www.acurite.com/weather/humidity/thermometer-with-wired-probe.html)

Most any reptile heating pad will work as long as it's on a thermostat. Just make sure it covers approximately 30% of the floor of the enclosure.

I don't use PVC enclosures...yet...but black doesn't stain as badly. Also, if you have a shy animal, it seems like the black ones wouldn't allow as much light in. Some animals prefer it dark(er). It's really going to depend upon the individual animal.

I use sterilite tubs for all my animals. I have 10 total, 7 different species...in all sizes, different husbandry requirements, etc and they work great! I will eventually have to move my giants into better enclosures but for smaller animals, carpets included, they work well.

I also use newspaper as substrate. It doesn't look pretty, but it's economical (free!) and it forces me to keep my tubs cleaned. With more natural looking substate, it can be hit or miss with cleaning unless you take it out and constantly change it which is expensive. But with paper, I immediately see it and clean the tub. It's not just spot cleaning. If I have to take the paper out, I clean out the inside of the whole enclosure. It doesn't take long and it makes for a healthier and cleaner environment for my animals, IMO. Even if I have to clean my tubs twice a day, it doesn't take long, especially when I consider that it keeps my tubs clean and is a good proponent to having healthy animals.

Whatever you decide to get, I recommend a hatchling. It's good to get them small so you can work with them and you also have a long time to get to know each other and build a trust bond. The earlier you can start working with them, the better for the both of you.

It's going to be up to you on what you decide as a size for an enclosure for your new animal. I personally prefer to put them in smaller tubs that just gives them enough room for them, a hide and a water bowl. I believe a smaller area while they young and acclimating helps with security. I also don't use hides after a while. Most of my animals stopped using them after a while anyway and seem to do just fine without them. But this is me and how I prefer to keep my animals. It works well for me and I have no issues with health or handling in my way of keeping. For the record, I don't use hooks nor will I. I feel that even though it gives a bit of safety, it also holds the animal away from you and how is it to get to know you at arms length? Instead I use heavy gloves for biters until they learn.

Again, this is just my method of keeping and working with my animals and it works for me and the animals I keep.

I think everyone does things a bit differently as it depends on the keeper, the animals they keep, and how much or little they work with them.

Good luck on your new animal! Please hit us up with other questions or concerns you may have. Can't wait to see what you decide upon and its new home!

TheSuppishOne

03-19-13, 04:40 PM

Woah. There's a response!

So Sterilite tubs work fine, eh? They sell 50 gallon ones at my local Walmart that are 43" Long x 22" Wide x 18" Tall, so that would be ideal if it doesn't matter to the snake. Not pretty, but extremely practical. Plus, that opens my budget up for a nicer Thermostat! =D

I also really like the idea of touching their head to train them for human handling. That seems like a simple solution to what I was worried would be a problem.

So... a heating pad underneath the enclosure will heat the air up enough, then, too?

As far as the snake goes, the general consensus here says that the carpet python is what I'm needing. As long as I don't get a coastal one, anyway. Supposedly those can grow to like 11 feet. It's disappointing, because I don't find them nearly as attractive as the boas, but if it's better for handling often, and easier to keep, then that's what's truly important.

Terranaut

03-19-13, 05:22 PM

Lankyrob

03-19-13, 05:23 PM

Whats really important is getting an animal,that YOU want and that you will enjoy for the next 20+ yrs without getting bored.

Aaron_S

03-19-13, 05:38 PM

TheSuppishOne

03-19-13, 06:04 PM

Really? Ever seen a jag like this ?
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j9/terranaut0/20130110_205711.jpg
Hell my carpet collection is crap compared to some on here. Troll the morelia section on here and see what Greg and Shaun have.

That IS a pretty snake. And now that I'm reading into them, I like that they stay thinner. My wife will appreciate both that aspect and the fact that they are more active than boas. I think it's more that boas appear to have smaller and smoother scales that appeals to me (and the glaring eyes). But again, many of you have said that carpets are easier, and since I'm a first timer, I'll look into that.

KORBIN5895

03-19-13, 06:15 PM

Weird. Double post.

KORBIN5895

03-19-13, 06:18 PM

Go with a boa. They are pretty much indestructible. Even I can successfully keep them!

That thermostat is fine regardless of what the others are saying. Lots of people on here use hydrofarm.

I would go with a 4'x2'x2' enclosure for a boa. Here is why.

http://s24.postimage.org/n4jav23pt/IMG_20121127_181419.jpg (http://postimage.org/image/n4jav23pt/)

She is closing in on 7'.

As for heat scratch the heat pad and get a radiant heat panel. It will create a hot spot and heat the air.

TheSuppishOne

03-19-13, 06:31 PM

And the Hydrofarm will work with a RHP? =]

KORBIN5895

03-19-13, 06:53 PM

And the Hydrofarm will work with a RHP? =]

It sure will. Now a herpstat would work better as it is a proportional thermostat where as a hydrofarm is an on/off thermostat.

Rogue628

03-19-13, 07:19 PM

See...I never knew exactly what people were using in regards to a stat. I've heard of people using the one I use and the more expensive ones, and a couple of others, but this is the first time I recall anyone using hydrofarm.

Which one do you use, Korbin and how well do you like it? I'm curious now!

To the OP: sorry for the threadjack, but I'm sure his response will be informative to the both of us!

As far as carpets or any other species, here's my set up. Remember I have 10 snakes I keep (one isn't in the picture as she's in QT).

I have them flipped around now for ease of getting the big totes out easier. On the right are my big totes. These are commonly called Christmas Tree totes as they only get sold by Wal Mart and a few other stores at Christmas. It's made to hold 4' sections of trees. The model number is a VE-175W and I know a lot of large snake owners who use them besides me. They're about 30-40$ at WalMart.

On the top shelf is Halo, my carpet that's about 6 1/2' long. Middle shelf is my burm Allie, who's about 8' long. On the bottom is Baby Girl, another burm who's between 9 1/2' - 10' long now.

On the other side is my king and tarantula (who we later moved and put my son's ball python in that spot) on the top shelf. The middle shelf holds my ball python and Colleen, my BCI. On the bottom are my two dumerils, who are a little over 5'. I heat using heat tape and I have the thermostat I mentioned earlier.

I put the easiest to handle of my critters on the top shelves with the others arranged according to size.

Picture:
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g191/SVRogue/Shelf%20Build/DSCN0061_zpsce53af03.jpg

In this picture you can see the carpet and the burms have good room in those totes.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g191/SVRogue/Shelf%20Build/DSCN0064_zpsdbcb9da1.jpg

Only having one animal, you won't need all of this...or even for 2 or 3. I'm only showing you to give you an idea of the size of the tubs I use and the animals housed in them.

But you won't need anything this size until yours gets enough size on it to need it. You don't need to start a hatchling in its forever home and it won't need that for quite some time. Too much space can cause stress to a smaller critter. A small tote according to it's size will be quite appropriate.

KORBIN5895

03-19-13, 10:10 PM

I use a herpstat nd, a ronco and an a-life ( not sure about the brand). There are several tstats that are all the same with a different brand sticker on it. Bean farm and big apple have the same t-stat with different names.

Hydrofarm also has one of these. The temperature dial isn't really accurate so you use a temp gun and adjust the dial until you get the temp you want. They are an on/off type which means it gives full power until your target temp is hit then it shuts off until it drops off to a couple degrees below your target temp.

TheSuppishOne

03-19-13, 10:31 PM

Well then that raises more questions... Does an on/off type thermostat mess with a snake? Constantly heating and cooling like that must be stressful...

On the other hand, does it save electricity?

Also, I may just go high end since I'm saving money through the enclosure, so is VE or Herpstat the preferred?

stephanbakir

03-19-13, 10:40 PM

Both work, and I currently use both. I prefer Herpstat NDs.

Regarding on off thermostats, some have both options available... when it comes to animals I tend to use the On/Off setting, and in incubators I use the setting where its constantly heating, just enough to maintain temps.

Rogue628

03-19-13, 10:46 PM

Herpstat is a Spyder product, right? Exactly which model do you use/prefer?

These are the ones I'm thinking of converting my stats over to eventually but keeping the VEs as backups.

KORBIN5895

03-20-13, 12:30 AM

I love my herpstat nd.

I think proportional t stats are more energy efficient because your heat source is seldom running full blast.

h3h

03-20-13, 12:42 AM

2. Thermostat. This one (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NZZG3S/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER) seems nice.

Getting a better thermostat is probably recommended, and I'm sure much of the community here will concur with that. However, I do own this exact model you have shown here, and I've never had an issue with it. Every time I verify the integrity of the digital display my temp gun reads within .02/.03 of that which is displayed. I feel is excellent, and because of that I never upgraded my thermostat. Take that for what it's worth.

I also agree with everyone else that feeding in a separate bin is a load of garbage. If your snake is in the mood to bite it's going to do it regardless of whether you feed it in a separate bin or not. If anything you have more of a chance of getting bit moving the snake back to it's home as it could still be in "feed mode." Good luck - Let us know what all you decide on. I'm excited for you!

- h3

TheSuppishOne

03-20-13, 01:52 AM

Okay, the Spyder Robotics website is telling me that they don't make Herpstat NDs anymore. And to be honest, with the prices the way they are, it's an extra $16 to make the jump from the Intro model to the 1 Basic (though I may just splurge and get the 1).

It would be REALLY sweet to just get the Herpstat 2, then buy the optional $55 hygrometer plug-in. But that's an extra $110 total over the H1.

Also, aren't RHP pretty much one size? If I'm using a smaller container at first, that would kinda suck to have to drop another $100 in a year or so to get a different size... Maybe I can just use an UTH until my snake is fully grown, then move to a RHP?

KORBIN5895

03-20-13, 02:09 AM

Rhp come in several different watts. The nice thing about a proportional thermostat is you can use an 80 watt in any size enclosure because the thermostat limits the watts being used. So a larger rhp can be used in a smaller enclosure and it will only use 30% power when in a regular enclosure it will use 80% power.

Aaron_S

03-20-13, 08:57 AM

Herpstat is a Spyder product, right? Exactly which model do you use/prefer?

These are the ones I'm thinking of converting my stats over to eventually but keeping the VEs as backups.

I have some older models. Therpstat, the herpstat ND and herpstat pro.

These have all been changed to new models that work very similar. Personally, I find these to the top of the line brand pretty much.

The best thing is that Dion(owner) is very great with his customer service so I think it's worth the money when looking into t-stats.

I wouldn't really upgrade though unless yours is a problem or something. I know guys still running Helix.

Donnie

03-20-13, 02:06 PM

Have a long hard think about the snake you want before you purchase. If you prefer boas over carpets then you should get a boa (this is coming from a carpet fan) as it will be with you for a long time. If size is worrying you with the boa then look into some of the smaller species of them. Good luck in choosing

TheSuppishOne

03-21-13, 02:14 PM

I swear. Is there such a thing as a good product on Amazon? Normally, I'll just find something that has 4.5 stars or above and grab it, but a living animal hangs in the balance here.

Does anybody have recommendations for thermometers and hygrometers? I just bought a Herpstat 1 and Ultratherm pad (until I get a nicer enclosure, then it's Pro-Heat RHPs), but I think I still need a thermometer and hygrometer, right?

Right now, it's looking like either Accurite or Extech is the way to go. The Extech even come with a probe, but they're more expensive.

Also, since you've all been awesome. Here's a pic of my (so far) enclosure! =D

http://i45.tinypic.com/rcjadl.jpg

KORBIN5895

03-21-13, 03:32 PM

You'll need a second hide and something else to let it climb on as most snakes need more than one branch to perch on.

Also just pick a digital thermometer up at Walmart for $10.

TheSuppishOne

03-21-13, 05:02 PM

Yes, the water bowl, second hide, and extra plants are on their way. This is just what I've done so far.

Freebody

03-21-13, 05:20 PM

erichillkeast

03-21-13, 09:21 PM

I recommend the herpstat any day of the week, but if its too costly for you right now, you can make this, I used them for a long time, cheep and you can dial the temp in pretty good, but herpstat all the way if you can get one. How to make your own Rheostat for less than $7! Detailed instructions.

1. He already bought a Herpstat.

2. That link is from 2005, it would probably cost twice that to make now.

3. You can buy lamp dimmer for around 10$.

4. If you really want to cheap out, at least cheap out by buying one of the 15$ thermostats off ebay.

Just my 0.02$

Rogue628

03-21-13, 11:09 PM

I think you have done most excellent so far. :D And you have more stuff on the way.

Have you decided what substrate you're going to use? I suggest using paper at first. Even good breeders have been known to have an outbreak of mites and not know it before shipping an animal out. If your animal comes with mites, you'll be able to spot them easier on paper (preferably all white if possible). I'm not saying it's a common issue but it does happen and using paper will help you notice the problem quicker and easier if it does happen. Once you've had your animal about a month or so and all is well, you can always change to a more natural substrate.

You have done much better than what I've seen a lot of new people do. But then, most people come to the forums wanting help after they've acquired the animal. So you've done absolutely great! :D

TheSuppishOne

03-22-13, 01:35 AM

Thank you, Rogue! I really appreciate the kind words!!!

I was planning on using newspaper for that very reason, but you said white paper? Like computer paper?? Is that okay to use on a snake?

Actually, I should probably ask... What is the procedure for the day your snake arrives? Should I immediately put it in the enclosure to let it relax a bit, or should I put it in a warm bathtub to make sure it doesn't have mites, or...?

stephanbakir

03-22-13, 02:08 AM

Dumerils aren't exactly arboreal, do you have room there for enough substrate for him to tunnel in? I've never owned dumerils long term but I have had them in my possession long enough to know that they spend most of their days burrowed under the substrate.

As soon as you get the animal, inspect it to make sure its healthy, then hydrate it and put it right into its enclosure.

TheSuppishOne

03-22-13, 02:27 AM

Well shoot. It's 14" tall, so I don't know. Even the really awesome enclosures I was looking at were only 12-14" tall... is that even enough room for a fully grown Dume to burrow??

Got it. Straight into the enclosure with no decorations. Do I leave the hides in, though? Just no "plants"?

stephanbakir

03-22-13, 02:30 AM

hides in for sure, just make sure its something that he can hide in, but can still be easily cleaned if hes sick or has mites.

you will most likely need to make your own enclosure for your adult, but honestly I had 2-3 inches of substrate and that might have been more then they need... I'm not a dumeril guy, best wait for someone who is.

Aaron_S

03-22-13, 08:53 AM

A few inches is all they would need. They just like to be covered up in the leaf litter where they come from. It's how they would catch their prey. Their colour and pattern would blend them into the ground so they can snatch unsuspecting food.

TheSuppishOne

03-22-13, 12:56 PM

I'm confused, though... You said I should use paper towels at first, and that newspaper was fine... I guess I could shred the newspaper to make it able to be burrowed in?

Rogue628

03-22-13, 11:53 PM

I wouldn't worry about providing the animal the ability to burrow as soon as you get it. IMO, it's more important for you to do what's in the best interest of making sure the animal is healthy and free of any parasites first. Then give it something borrow in.

But I'm a bit confused. I thought you had decided on a carpet? Are you getting a dumeril now? (I work two jobs and it's hard for me to keep up with every single thread)

TheSuppishOne

03-23-13, 02:15 AM

Yes. I originally wanted a boa and after following everybody's guidance in a circle, I find myself back to boa. =]

I think it'll be a great match for my wife and me.

TheSuppishOne

03-25-13, 05:10 PM

As an update, I am getting the Dumeril's from Ken in Vegas. I went in search of Dumeril's at all shops in a 30 miles radius from me and nobody had one. One shop that was 60 miles away said they had a couple of 1-2 year olds, but that's not worth the drive to me.

Also, here's my near finished enclosure. I'm waiting for the Herpstat to arrive tomorrow, but until then, this is what I have.

I also went with a little Exo Terra heat mat for now, because I'm waiting until I get the real 4' enclosure before I buy an RHP.

=]

http://i50.tinypic.com/2ppyps4.jpg

http://i46.tinypic.com/2qbeuix.jpg

Aaron_S

03-25-13, 07:21 PM

I'd remove the plants and the wood and find more clean, smooth surfaces for hides.

You don't want anything really porous in there for the most part. Bare minimum for quarantine. It isn't nice to look at but when you think you'll have the snake for 20 years the 60 - 90 days are nothing.

TheSuppishOne

03-25-13, 08:06 PM

Do I need to quarantine a snake if it's my first? I thought the purpose of quarantining was to prevent other snakes from getting mites...?

I know I can't handle the guy for a week or two, but that's not what quarantine is, right?

valid

03-25-13, 08:25 PM

Quarantine is to observe the animal. You want to know it it has mites (or other problems) , other reptiles in the house or not.
Putting it directly into a substrate also most guarantees that it will dig, and that pretty much ruins the point.

Aaron_S

03-25-13, 08:56 PM

You can switch everything up within 30 days most likely barring a clean bill of health.

TheSuppishOne

03-25-13, 11:01 PM

Interesting. Well, I took your suggestions on using paper towel, as you can see, so hopefully I can see... well, nothing. Nothing would be best. =P

How about his feeding? I assume I still have to keep his feeding schedule... He has been fed on Wednesdays thus far, and this works for me. Do I just drop a f/t hopper in there and let it be?

And with boas being noctural... Do they feed better at night?

Rogue628

03-26-13, 12:23 AM

Feeding: some people will say wait about a week before offering food so they have a chance to acclimate to their new surroundings. Some people will feed a day or so after they acquire a new animal. I feed a couple of days after. IMO, if an animal will eat after a couple of days, they're acclimating nicely and your enclosure is set up properly with heat and humidity. I've only had one animal to refuse after having it for a couple of days. I left it alone for a week and made sure heat and humidity were correct as well as cage size. In my experience, some babies do better in smaller tubs because small equals safe for them. The second offering, they ate fine and no problems since.

With my last acquisition, she ate a couple of days after getting her but refused the next week. As a rule of thumb I won't begin working or handling animals until they eat twice consecutively for me so I left her alone and she's eaten every time food has been offered.

Most snakes are nocturnal.

Most people feed whenever they get a chance (day/night) but keep the feed day the same. I usually offer food at night. This is when snakes are more active and are more likely to hunt, rather than trying to get them to eat after you've startled them awake. I feel I get a better feed response, but my animals will eat anytime food is offered no matter the time of day. I just prefer to feed late in the evening or at night.

As far as dropping a f/t in, try offering on tongs. You may have to wiggle it a bit and do what we call a zombie dance to get the snakes interest. BTW, is the seller already feeding f/t or live? Start with whatever they're already eating. If it's live, you can switch to f/t after a few weeks to give it time to acclimate.

Some animals are shy eaters and need to be covered up to give them a sense of safety so they'll eat. And some are just really slow and like to take their time. One of my dumerils takes forever to find her food and eat, while the other will take it as soon as it's offered.

My two dumeril girls eat have always eaten whenever I've offered food. It doesn't matter the time or day or if I do a zombie dance or throw it in.

I don't recall hearing very many, if any, feeding issues with dumerils. For the most part, they're a hardy species that acclimates well, eat well, and are easy to maintain and work with.

Being a new snake owner, I suggest offering whatever food the seller has been giving (size and if it's f/t, live, etc) as well as the same feeding schedule if it works for you.

Being a dumeril, I'm pretty positive it will eat for you within a couple of days after receiving it as long as the set up is correct. If you have any problems, just post up a question and we'll be happy to guide you through getting your animal to eat as well as any other issues. If there's anything you need to know, just ask! :)

TheSuppishOne

03-26-13, 12:52 AM

The guy I spoke with today about shipping my boy said that he's NEVER had a problem feeding. In fact, he said he accidentally fed him twice in one week and the little guy ate both of them. And yes, f/t is what he's been eating.

I watched how to prekill rodents before feeding, but I don't have the heart for that. F/T from LayneLabs seems to be a good thing for me. =]

I just know that the first two weeks are going to suck... It's like getting a new car and not being able to drive it for two weeks while it sits in your driveway...

NCHornet

03-26-13, 10:21 AM

I didn't have time to read the whole thread but here is my reply.
The thermostat you posted is well proven and used by many of us. Mine has been 100% for a couple years now. Yes you can buy more expensive units, but I don't see a big advantage.
I have no idea about that heat mat you linked to. I would prefer something designed for reptile enclosures and not for seeds. They may not be hot enough. The heat tape is very affordable, why not use it?
Lighting is solved by using the undercabinet lighting sold at WalMart or Lowes or Home Depot. I have found WalMart to be the cheapest. Mine are going on two years with no issues.
A timer can be a fancy digital with all the bells and whistles or a simple basic rotary dial timer. I have used both and they both work well.
Substrate, I myself like Aspen and my snakes love it. I replace it once a month and spot clean as needed.
I hope this helps.