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View Full Version : Why is my humidity so low?


Ray818
03-02-13, 08:27 PM
Hello all. I will be getting a Brazilian Rainbow Boa and they require a humidity level of about 90%. I hooked up a humidifier to my 60 gallon tank to make the job easier, however my tank gets completely wet (Pictures Attached) and the tank is barely reading 88%. I have two gauges (1 digital and 1 analog) and it is unlikely that they would both be defective. About 3/4 of the top is covered with plexiglass. I dont think the tank should be getting this wet. Can you guys help me find out what im doing wrong?

Heating: 250 watt Ceramic Heater
Humidity: Humudifier, ran a hose to the tank
Substrate: Moss

Gravelanche
03-02-13, 08:38 PM
its not that they are defective, a lot of them lose their sensitivity after the 90% mark. also you dont nescessarily need the WHOLE tank to be that crazy wet, as long as she has a nice moist hide and a big water bowl to soak in she will be happy. keep it night and high of course, but no need to panic if its a little lower than 90 on the dial.

also that much mist is going to soak deep into the substrate, when she crawls around it will be plenty damp. there are more experts on here to follow im sure, but i wouldnt panic

Corey209
03-02-13, 08:38 PM
Looks like you're trying to grow mold o.o

Gravelanche
03-02-13, 08:41 PM
Looks like you're trying to grow mold o.o

give it a day, he will have succeeded lol

Corey209
03-02-13, 08:50 PM
Looks like you're trying to grow mold o.o

In all seriousness I'd watch out with the humidity, even at 90% you can see the air. If you make it way too moist you can give your snake RI.

Jeepers
03-02-13, 09:31 PM
That's way... way too wet... and are you using straight up moss for substrate? I wouldn't really recommend that... For something more aesthetically pleasing, you could go with reptibark, ecoearth, etc., just be mindful of accidental ingestion of large pieces of wood. With that high humidity, such substrate can be a problem as it would facilitate the growth of mold and other harmful bacteria.

Moist paper towels can also work, should you find yourself having problems with regular substrate.

As far as keeping humidity up, try placing a wet towel over the top instead of plexiglass. I found this always worked wonderfully. Just keep in mind that you MUST let the humidity drop over the course of a few days afterwards. Otherwise you will have some serious mold and bacteria issues that are very unhealthy for your snake. Let it drop to about 60% before redoing everything(misting, wetting the towel, etc.).

Also, as stated above, a nice humidity hide works well. For mine I used a container with a hole cut into it, some chunks of sphagnum moss inside it, and very shallow water to keep the moss nice and moist.

Before I forget, 90% is actually a bit on the high side.. I kept mine between 80% - 85%.

Gravelanche
03-02-13, 09:36 PM
i have been doing a lot of reading and research on this subject, as a general guide, aim to have the humidity reasonably high, make sure the snake has a big water bowl to soak in, and put some moss in the hide and mist it. the snake will seek out the best place for itself, if slightly lower humidity were dangerous the species would have died out milenia ago.

Jeepers
03-02-13, 09:46 PM
i have been doing a lot of reading and research on this subject, as a general guide, aim to have the humidity reasonably high, make sure the snake has a big water bowl to soak in, and put some moss in the hide and mist it. the snake will seek out the best place for itself, if slightly lower humidity were dangerous the species would have died out milenia ago.

Very true but allowing the humidity to fluctuate is very important. It happens in the wild, for them, and it's a necessity in captivity.

Mine did have a large 'pool' of water to soak in completely, so that is true. It was fairly shallow water, but enough to submerge himself.

KORBIN5895
03-02-13, 09:54 PM
Your problem is the 250w bulb. That is going to create a vacuum that draws all of the moisture out of the air. Hence why your substrate is wet but you aren't reading 100% humidity.

As for substrate use cocohusk as it doesn't mold.

Jeepers
03-02-13, 09:56 PM
Your problem is the 250w bulb. That is going to create a vacuum that draws all of the moisture out of the air. Hence why your substrate is wet but you aren't reading 100% humidity.

As for substrate use cocohusk as it doesn't mold.

Really?... Maybe that's why I haven't had substrate problems in forever. I started using Cocohusk, after using Reptibark unsuccessfully, years ago and never had a problem. I just knew it held humidity well, but didn't know that about it. Learn something new every day.

KORBIN5895
03-02-13, 11:10 PM
Cocohusk is amazing stuff.

Squirtle
03-02-13, 11:31 PM
Replace the CHE with an under tank heat mat, you can also put a damp towel on top of the screen cage.

Corey209
03-03-13, 01:01 AM
Replace the CHE with an under tank heat mat, you can also put a damp towel on top of the screen cage.

With a thermostat.

Aaron_S
03-03-13, 10:11 AM
Just note, a wet tank like this will still cause your animal to have scale rot over a prolonged period of time. Even though rainbows require more humidity it does not mean they should be swimming.

ilovemypets1988
03-03-13, 10:18 AM
allow ventilation to the tank and get rid of the humidifier, spray the tank instead and between sprays, allow the tank to dry out to 50% and spray again, use a moist hide to add humidity or at least thats how ill be doing mine.

Ray818
03-03-13, 08:55 PM
Your problem is the 250w bulb. That is going to create a vacuum that draws all of the moisture out of the air. Hence why your substrate is wet but you aren't reading 100% humidity.

As for substrate use cocohusk as it doesn't mold.

This seems to be the most accurate answer. Because as soon as i turn off the lamp, the humidity will jump high and maintain the same till i turn the lamp back on, then it will lower again. However, the tank is pretty big, and i dont know what else will be able to raise the temperature to 83F.

Corey209
03-03-13, 09:07 PM
This seems to be the most accurate answer. Because as soon as i turn off the lamp, the humidity will jump high and maintain the same till i turn the lamp back on, then it will lower again. However, the tank is pretty big, and i dont know what else will be able to raise the temperature to 83F.

You really shouldn't have a problem with a large heat mat unless your house is below freezing.

KORBIN5895
03-04-13, 03:05 AM
This seems to be the most accurate answer. Because as soon as i turn off the lamp, the humidity will jump high and maintain the same till i turn the lamp back on, then it will lower again. However, the tank is pretty big, and i dont know what else will be able to raise the temperature to 83F.

I would completely cover the top with Plexiglas, switch to cocohusk and get a radiant heat panel. Those three steps should solve the current issue.

Corey209
03-04-13, 03:08 AM
I would completely cover the top with Plexiglas, switch to cocohusk and get a radiant heat panel. Those three steps should solve the current issue.

Boa's need belly heat for digestion don't they?

KORBIN5895
03-04-13, 03:15 AM
Belly heat really isn't necessary. It just needs heat to boost its metabolism.

Lankyrob
03-04-13, 03:53 AM
Boa's need belly heat for digestion don't they?

Its a common misconception that bulbs and rhp's dont provide belly heat.

Think about nature, the sun is above the snake not below it :)

Ray818
03-04-13, 04:19 AM
I would completely cover the top with Plexiglas, switch to cocohusk and get a radiant heat panel. Those three steps should solve the current issue.

What type of rhp do you thing i should get? Size? A link would be nice if possible. :) I haven't really seen them in stores...

Also when you say completely cover, doesn't the snake need air ventilation?

Ray818
03-04-13, 04:23 AM
You really shouldn't have a problem with a large heat mat unless your house is below freezing.

Would i be putting the heat mat under the tank? I remember reading something about that being dangerous somehow.

KORBIN5895
03-04-13, 06:11 AM
What type of rhp do you thing i should get? Size? A link would be nice if possible. :) I haven't really seen them in stores...

Also when you say completely cover, doesn't the snake need air ventilation?

Would i be putting the heat mat under the tank? I remember reading something about that being dangerous somehow.

With either heat source you need a thermostat to be safe.

As for covering the top you would need to drill a few air holes in the Plexiglas.

I am unsure of what brands there are or even what one I use. I currently have a 30w heating a 48"x18"x24" glass terrarium.

Jeepers
03-04-13, 09:36 AM
I personally don't use under tank heaters, but as far as bulbs go, I didn't need some high watt bulb to keep my humidity up... at most I think I used a 100w, but I usually stick with 75w. The height at which it's being used plays a big part, though.

The highest watt I use is a 250w infrared at about a foot high, or more, but that's for my caiman and is partially used for water heat.

Squirtle
03-04-13, 02:52 PM
With a thermostat.

I'd assume that the OP already had a thermostat to control his 250W CHE. Thanks for stating the obvious, though.

jarich
03-04-13, 03:38 PM
Here are a few links for RHPs:

RBI Radiant Heat Panels (http://www.reptilebasics.com/rbi-radiant-heat-panels)

Pro-Products | Heating Solutions (http://www.pro-products.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=55&Itemid=59)

Radiant Heat Panels (http://www.helixcontrols.com/RadiantHeaterPanels.htm)

As for the question about belly heat, they will get it from an RHP the same as they would in the wild, like Rob said. The RHP will warm up the ground on the hot side, the snake moves onto the hot side and gains the heat from the ground surface. It also then gets the heat from the RHP directly, just like in the wild.

Terranaut
03-04-13, 04:27 PM
I use the reptile basics panels (first link) they are great, well made and nice looking.

jarich
03-04-13, 05:20 PM
I use the reptile basics panels (first link) they are great, well made and nice looking.

Ya I agree, Ive switched to the Reptile Basics now. I think the design is best too as there is no lip for a reptile to grab onto at all.

Ray818
03-12-13, 10:03 PM
I've got it to work. I switched the che with a regular 100 watt bulb and it is more than enough. I also cover the entire top with plexiglass and just made a few holes, enough for some air ventilation. I also changed the substrate to coconut husk. I just got my boa today and he seems to be fond of his tank ;) Thanks a lot guys.

KORBIN5895
03-12-13, 10:04 PM
Congratulations! Glad to hear it worked.