Growing moss on snake hides

[Torqueware]

Hello there,

Has anyone ever grown moss on snake hides? If so, what are your experiences?

The reason I am interested: moss thrives in shaded and humid areas - additionally, it does not require roots.

Might it be worth pursuing to give the hides a more naturalistic look?

One idea I have had is to have a UV bulb in conjunction with a CHE heating my enclosure. A timer would turn on the UV bulb for about 15 minutes a day (mostly for the benefit of the moss).

I would use the CHE to maintain ambient heat (in conjunction with a rheostat+probe).

Additionally, in times just before shedding, I could swap the roles of the CHE and the UV bulb. Reason being, UV rays cause skin damage! Using the UV bulb more often might forcibly weaken the old, outer layer of skin (in addition to higher cage humidities). My intentions would be to only use this method sparingly just days before a shed.

I believe that, with this system in place, a person could cultivate both a mildly successful moss garden and a Python Regius at the same time!

My only concerns are for the snakes health. What do you guys think?

[KORBIN5895]

I would personally get a chia per and break a hole in it.

Your thoughts on the UV seem to be a little over thought.

[pdomensis]

I've been thinking of doing something similar with lichens in desert habitats. If you have normal room lighting you probably wouldn't need to add a UV bulb for moss. It grows in my plants anywhere there is moist soil, and does fine in teraria with no additional light. I would give it a try first in your set up as is to see how it goes. The biggest worry I would think is bringing in parasites from outside.

[Torqueware]

I would personally get a chia per and break a hole in it.

Your thoughts on the UV seem to be a little over thought.

I'm assuming 'chia pet' was intended in the above (my google-fu revealed the suggestion!). The 'r' key is always so close - too close - to the 't' key on these damn QWERTY keyboards.

I think that's a great idea! However, I currently lack currency (ie. I have ample amounts of other resources).

I actually found a really cool guide online for transplanting moss! The end result is a moss slurry that you could apply via paintbrush. I was thinking of growing small patches on my current hides.

I would post the URL (It's a cool one), but the forum-bot keeps insisting "zero fun allowed".

I am often reminded that even the insane are capable of thinking quite deeply. Thanks for the warning!

I've been thinking of doing something similar with lichens in desert habitats. If you have normal room lighting you probably wouldn't need to add a UV bulb for moss. It grows in my plants anywhere there is moist soil, and does fine in teraria with no additional light. I would give it a try first in your set up as is to see how it goes. The biggest worry I would think is bringing in parasites from outside.

Parasites are a serious concern! I've already dealt with snake mites (knock-on-wood), and I want to take every precaution I can.

My current quarantine procedures are:
1. Wash with soapy water
2. Let the object dry in the sun
3. Spray with 1:68 (Nix:RO water) solution
4. Repeat step 2
5. Spray with 1:1 (W. Vinegar, %5:RO water) solution
6. Repeat step 2

But I have a feeling that will KILL the moss! Anyone have any suggestions on a quarantine that won't just murder the moss? Also, would parasites be a concern if I got moss from the local nursery?

[jarich]

Moss does not require UV light, nor do they use it, so as pdomensis said, there is no need to put that UV bulb in there. This is especially true given that your python is a nocturnal animal.

The problem with the moss on a hide is that moss requires a consistently moist medium to grow on. In order for it to grow on the hide you would need to keep the hide constantly moist. This could cause skin problems for your python if its touching something wet all the time.

pdomensis, you would do just as well glueing the lichens into place. Most grow so incredibly slowly your animals would be dead long before you would notice a difference.

[Torqueware]

Moss does not require UV light, nor do they use it, so as pdomensis said, there is no need to put that UV bulb in there. This is especially true given that your python is a nocturnal animal.

The problem with the moss on a hide is that moss requires a consistently moist medium to grow on. In order for it to grow on the hide you would need to keep the hide constantly moist. This could cause skin problems for your python if its touching something wet all the time.

pdomensis, you would do just as well glueing the lichens into place. Most grow so incredibly slowly your animals would be dead long before you would notice a difference.

I probably should have mentioned my current terrarium setup...

Currently my pythons house is a '20-long' (30" x 12" x 12", 20 gallon) glass vivarium with a wire mesh top. He has two hides (on opposing sides of the cage) and a water dish in the middle (somewhat towards the cool side). On the warm side, I have a regulated 8" x 12" UTH (I use a digital thermostat set to 94F). I mist thrice daily and the terrarium has minimal sunlight.

Until I construct my own reptile fogger, I use a damp towel draped over the top to help keep the humidity in.

I try to keep my terrarium hovering at 45 - 55% relative humidity, and up the humidity to 75 - 85% during sheds. I have no problems upping the humidity, thus far.

I was planning on growing the moss on top of the hides themselves. So far, the little guy spends most of his time 'indoors', so I don't think I need to worry about prolonged exposure of his skin to moisture.

I can happily report that (given time) I find him moving from one hide to the other! So I believe I have the temperature of his hides right.

One concern of mine is the ambient temperature, which I can't seem to keep up without slaughtering the humidity (Presently, I have a heat bulb. Mostly it stays off, though). The floor of the warm side is consistently at target warmth, but the temperature of the air dips into the 70s and high 60s on the middle and cool side.

What do you guys think?

[jarich]

I think your best bet is to replace the screen top with a wood one, and then replace the heat bulb with a UTH. This will keep your air from drying out due to the bulb, and hold the humidity you do have in.

As for the moss, what I meant is that you would have to keep those hides totally saturated with water in order for the moss to grow. The feasibility of this is up to you, but it seems like there would be quite a few problems with it. If you want moss that badly I would say ditch your 20 L for something deeper, set up a bioactive substrate and plant it directly on the substrate. You would need to do this for a couple weeks at least before introducing the snake though, so the moss would have time to 'take' before the snake is all over it.

[Torqueware]

Thanks for the info on the moss! I'll try to grow it for a few weeks on an upside-down planter saucer that I used to make a hide.

I currently have a UTH on the warm side (its a 12" x 8" meant for 40 gallon tanks, I have a 20 gallon vivarium). Should I pursue getting another one, then?

Concerning the screen top:
What about sealing the holes in the screen cover? The plastic rimmed screen has indentations for retention clips, and it slides in snugly. If I could modify it, or salvage it in some way as to make it only semi-porous (to allow for air) that would be ideal!

Has anyone pursued this train of thought further?

Like, for example, apply an epoxy to a screen top via paintbrush? Or, by spreading a vulcanizing solution over the top (like, for example shoe goo) while using butcher paper temporarily attached to the bottom of the screen?

The advantage of this is that the thin grate is like a scaffold which can then be used to shape a covering over the top. Circular openings (for CHEs and heat lamps) could be planned into the design.

What do you guys think?

[KORBIN5895]

If you can find a nontoxic coating I think sealing the screen is a great idea.

[Torqueware]

I'll do more research and let you guys know what I find!

Anybody have an idea on where to start?

My gut feeling says vulcanizing solutions - only problem with these are the initial toxic fumes! A person would have to apply the solution in a well ventilated area, and wait a day to be safe.

I'll look for one with a strong resistance to heat (in case a CHE is to be added later - or used in another configuration). An additional Plus would be if the resultant sealant could be peeled off in one piece (In case someone changes their mind).

I'm also looking into building a reptile mister from a ultrasonic humidifier. I know how the air-stone / aquarium air pump variant works, but the ultrasonic variant would be quieter and more interesting solution to build or watch.

[jarich]

Ha! you sound like a guy who likes to do things the hard way! No disrespect meant by that, as it seems born both out of a desire to learn and a desire to build things yourself.

The thing with CHE and lights used for heat outside your enclosure is that you will always be battling heat and humidity issues. No matter how much you cover the rest of the lid, if you have a hooded CHE or light on top, they will suck the heat and humidity out. They are basically like small fans pointed out of your enclosure.

You have a large UTH that covers half the enclosure and you are still having troubles getting the ambient up? What is the temperature of your room? Im guessing its low 60s by the sounds of things. In which case I would recommend switching to a wood top with a radiant heat panel attached. That will allow you to seal your top, solving your heat and humidity problems at the same time. They are relatively cheap, about $60.

[BarelyBreathing]

I've had some success growing moss on cork rounds.