View Full Version : Enclosure made of wooden pallets.
Hi everyone.
First of all, this is my first pet snake. He is a California Kingsnake (I actually don't know the sex). I bought him 3 weeks ago today. When I bought him, the shop clerk said he was approximately 2 months old. So, anyway. Right now I have him a 20 gallon tall fish tank and he seems happy. I'm in the middle of building him a larger enclosure. I've already started, but I wanted to run my plans past you guys to see what your thoughts might be.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/Onael/Forums/IMG_20120818_181115.jpg
I'm using used pallets that I'm picking up from my local newspaper plant. LOL, I have no idea what the proper term is, sorry. The planned dimensions are 36" x 18" x 18". The build seems pretty straight forward. Plywood on bottom, screen on top, wood around the sides and back, and sliding plexiglass in front. Heating will be done with CHE unless I can find a way to use his UTH pad he's got now. Lighting will be done with a fluorescent light hood.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/Onael/Forums/IMG_20120818_181056.jpg
Some concerns I have are temperature and humidity control because even though the boards are tightly placed, it is still going to be very well ventilated. Also, since the pallets are made of various woods, I assume that by sealing and varnishing the wood, I can protect him from any cedar or pine that might be mixed in.
Thank you and sorry for the long post. This as far as I've gotten. What are your thoughts?
gareth.hooper
08-19-12, 02:15 AM
Nice size, I would however have solid top,with vented sides. This way temp and humidity control can be managed better.
Gungirl
08-19-12, 07:12 AM
I would never use any cedar regardless of it being sealed or not.
Nice size, I would however have solid top,with vented sides. This way temp and humidity control can be managed better.
So air flow is a good thing? The more the merrier? I figured with too much ventilation the temp and humidity would drop. The boards are pressed tightly together but they're not perfectly squared so there are a lot of gaps. Too small for him to get out of course.
I would never use any cedar regardless of it being sealed or not.
I wouldn't intentionally use cedar, but I know that there is a chance that I might get some in the pallets. Any idea how I might be able to identify cedar or pine?
Thank you guys.
Seal the gaps with silicone, then seal it all in polyurethane and it will be fine regardless of wood type. I'd make the top solid, and then hang the light from the inside. That way you can control humidity and temperature better. A vent on the side that can be closed will give you control over air flow. Instead of the CHE I'd go with a radiant heat panel, that way there is never an issue of the snake wrapping itself around the fixture. Can again be mounted to the solid top panel. Cool idea by the way. Always good to recycle when possible
Hmm. I'm trying to do this with very minimal spending using the items I have on hand. Not because I'm trying to be thrifty, but because the wifey doesn't want me to, LOL. After all he is doing just fine in the aquarium right now and he will be for a long time, so why spend the money?
I could make the top solid and cut out holes for the heat lamp and fluorescent light fixtures. Any ideas on how I can incorporate his UTH into this build? If I placed it in the bottom with something over it (plexiglass, vinyl floor tile) to keep him from coming in direct contact with it, would that work?
Thank you
DeesBalls
08-19-12, 11:33 AM
Hmm. I'm trying to do this with very minimal spending using the items I have on hand. Not because I'm trying to be thrifty, but because the wifey doesn't want me to, LOL. After all he is doing just fine in the aquarium right now and he will be for a long time, so why spend the money?
I could make the top solid and cut out holes for the heat lamp and fluorescent light fixtures. Any ideas on how I can incorporate his UTH into this build? If I placed it in the bottom with something over it (plexiglass, vinyl floor tile) to keep him from coming in direct contact with it, would that work?
Thank you
why have the fluorescent light? snakes don't need them... and yes, you can use your UTH in tank... while ALOT of people will disagree with me, i have UTH, and Flexwatt in tank/cages i made and it works just fine... all i do is:
build a small "frame" around the UTH, and use plexiglass to cover the UTH. I would also use silicone to seal around the OUTSIDE of the little "frame" this way, if water gets in the cage, the electrical will be covered with plexi glass... i use this bulsa wood stuff, ( like $.40 for a 3 foot piece.) its very hard to explain but they way i do it works really really well. with all my tanks, after it is finished i will hook it up, and intentionally put water right on the UTH, or Flexwatt to see what would happen...In the back of the cage, i use a saw and cut a small slit so i can slide the UTH in and out if need replaced.
Brently
08-19-12, 11:34 AM
I would avoid the issue all together and simply line the inside with a different material. I used tile board that you would use in a bathroom. I got it at lowes. Cheap and doesn't look bad. Plus you don't need to seal it, just caulk the corners and your done. Holds heat and humidity well and is easy to clean. The outside can then be made of pine or whatever you want since the snake can't come into contact with it.
@Brently
I do have a small stack of brown ceramic tiles in the basement. But, I don't know the first thing about cutting or gluing them in. I'll look that up tonight.
@DeEuGi
I like your idea. I can make a very small slot in the floor with some of the spare plexiglass and slide the UTH in there.
Thanks!
Brently
08-20-12, 07:09 AM
Well I didn't use actual tile. It is a compression board type material about an 1/8" think. I secured it in place with little brad nails that I put a small amount of clear silicone over. It's pretty cheap and comes in 4x8 foot sheets I believe. But if you did go with ceramic tile it might be a bit overkill but I am sure it would look absolutely amazing. Good luck.
DeesBalls
08-20-12, 07:55 AM
i have very good success with it, it you want pics, let me know.
gareth.hooper
08-20-12, 09:35 AM
So air flow is a good thing? The more the merrier? I figured with too much ventilation the temp and humidity would drop. The boards are pressed tightly together but they're not perfectly squared so there are a lot of gaps. Too small for him to get out of course.
Your reference to a screen comes across as being an open top mesh type.
I'm not convinced this works well when temps and humidity are required to be maintained consistently.
Air flow is important but I'm not referring to making gaping holes in the sides or back, wherever ventilation holes will be made, But at least having them is still important. Something like 2-3in round and two on each side, square or triangle if you prefer but the dimension will be based on the plastic ventilation inserts you can buy from a hardware store.
Your reference to a screen comes across as being an open top mesh type.
I'm not convinced this works well when temps and humidity are required to be maintained consistently.
Air flow is important but I'm not referring to making gaping holes in the sides or back, wherever ventilation holes will be made, But at least having them is still important. Something like 2-3in round and two on each side, square or triangle if you prefer but the dimension will be based on the plastic ventilation inserts you can buy from a hardware store.
Yes, I was referring to 1/4" hardware cloth.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/Onael/Forums/palletviv.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/Onael/Forums/palletvivvents.jpg
As you can see I decided to go with the solid top. For ventilation I'm thinking about removing a board from each end and replacing them with 1/4" hardware cloth. Also, instead of a sliding glass, I'm going to put a swing-down glass front.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/Onael/Forums/IMG_20120820_224921.jpg
Is it safe to have the heat lamp sitting on the wood top?
Thanks for all your input.
gareth.hooper
08-21-12, 12:45 AM
That's looking real good I believe a better choice with a solid top.
As those boards are quite wide, perhaps one for now to check how it retains temp and humidity. As a whole this looks ok to adjust later if needed.
You could leave the board in and only cut out a middle section from a board and use the cloth you mention using the single board as its frame.
I am not familiar with Kings, but do they require overhead heat?
Over all this is looking like it goes to be super awesome when finished, well done.
I would really just drill a 2 or 3" hole on either side. It doesnt take much to ventilate a box that size, and similarly it doesn't take much to lose your heat and humidity.
Jlassiter
08-21-12, 05:50 AM
Nice work so far....And great suggestion Jarich.
I have a suggestion or two...
That enclosure is rather large for a 2 month old California king.
He may be large enough for it by next year around this time, but at two months he can't be more than a foot long or so.
Also.....
A heat lamp is not needed for colubrids.
Heat lamps dry the air. I would recommend belly or backheat and ditch the light.
If you want a light to just "see" the captive then I would suggest a 5 watt bulb.
Okay, so for now, I won't cut the top. I will start with a 2" hole on either end (the boards are 3" wide). Besides the lamp, he has a little 10-20gallon UTH.
He was 18" inches long when I first got him four weeks ago. I know the enclosure is going to be a bit too big for him, but I've read that as long as I put a lot of hides to break up the open space, he'd be fine.
Thanks guys.
Terranaut
08-21-12, 10:23 AM
Kings like to roam so your size is fine. Seal it with as much sealer as possible. Looks good to me so far. Humidity ian't much of a concern witha king 40-60% is perfect. If you ever have doubts just place a small tub filled with damp substrate(not aspen) and cut a small hole just big enough for your snake. If they are dry they will go into the damp hide. Its good for shedding as well. Also it saves you the need to babysit your humidity level. Honnestly I just skimmed this thread but it seems your on a budget. If this is so be sure not to just put the heat source in without a thermostat. I found $15 thermostats at home depot and have them in 2 of my home made enclosures. They work great. Someone said to me it's not acurate enough but I set them witha temp gun,not the number on the dial. Then I was told they fluctuate temperature to much to which I answered" ever been outside?". Better a cheap one than a grilled snake. Keep the pics coming.
Kings like to roam so your size is fine. Seal it with as much sealer as possible. Looks good to me so far. Humidity ian't much of a concern witha king 40-60% is perfect. If you ever have doubts just place a small tub filled with damp substrate(not aspen) and cut a small hole just big enough for your snake. If they are dry they will go into the damp hide. Its good for shedding as well. Also it saves you the need to babysit your humidity level. Honnestly I just skimmed this thread but it seems your on a budget. If this is so be sure not to just put the heat source in without a thermostat. I found $15 thermostats at home depot and have them in 2 of my home made enclosures. They work great. Someone said to me it's not acurate enough but I set them witha temp gun,not the number on the dial. Then I was told they fluctuate temperature to much to which I answered" ever been outside?". Better a cheap one than a grilled snake. Keep the pics coming.
Thank you for the information. I'm definitely going to look into getting a thermostat.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/Onael/Forums/IMG_20120821_123902.jpg
This is what is going to cover the two 1 1/2" holes for ventilation.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/Onael/Forums/tvstand.jpg
New Plan! I just got permission from my wife to move Spencer into the living room for all to enjoy. What do you think about putting him in my TV stand? Please excuse the mess. I was given that space because it just accumulate junk. The build plans stay the same except that the height has to come down to a maximum of 9 3/4". Would that be okay considering he's still small?
Brently
08-22-12, 07:04 AM
I wouldn't do that. while it would probably look nice, think about the fact that snakes hear through vibration and when you have th tv on all that sound is going to transfer through the stand and into the enclosure. Just my opinion.
gareth.hooper
08-22-12, 07:10 AM
I am too against reptiles in the immediate vicinity of televisions, whether it be typical tube or flat screen.
In all the excitement, I totally overlooked that. He wouldn't like that at all. Never mind then. Thank you.
Terranaut
08-22-12, 12:31 PM
Stick to original plan :)
Sticking with the original plan. I just need to build the door frame. I don't have the plexiglass yet. I'm sanding and applying the finish tomorrow. By the time I get the glass it'll have aired out pretty good. What thickness do you recommend for the glass. I was thinking of using the 1/4" thickness but if I can go thinner, it would be cheaper. Thank you.
Terranaut
08-23-12, 06:12 AM
If you are building a wood frame for the door get glass. Cheaper by 1/2 in most cases. Build the door and then order the glass to size. Had I have gone glass I would have saved enough to build another enclosure. Plexi or lexan is expensive. So my $.02 is go with glass.
DeesBalls
08-23-12, 06:40 AM
If you are building a wood frame for the door get glass. Cheaper by 1/2 in most cases. Build the door and then order the glass to size. Had I have gone glass I would have saved enough to build another enclosure. Plexi or lexan is expensive. So my $.02 is go with glass.
my plexi was only a few dollars..must depend on where you are from.
Terranaut
08-23-12, 06:43 AM
A 8x4x1/4 sheet with one cut was over $200 here. Glass would have been $50-60. Live and learn I guess :(
Brently
08-23-12, 07:01 AM
I had my plexi cut to size at lowes and only cost a few bucks. I went with 1/4" but that is because I have young kids who I knew would touch it despite my efforts. So I wanted something with a little give and strength. If that is not the issue with you then go as thin as you want. A kingsnake is not going to develope the mass or power to push through even 1/8" plexi. Just make sure you have a decent amount over lap on the sides to create that cushion for give and flex.
Started varnishing. I first stained it dark and then sanded it almost completely off. By no means it is a professional look, but I'm digging it. I got frame in place for a heat pad (thank you, @DeEuGi for the idea) that will go underneath a ceramic tile and sealed off from water and the snake. I still need to get the glass. I think I'm going to get the 1/4" plexiglass.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/Onael/Forums/IMG_20120823_171825.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/Onael/Forums/IMG_20120823_171749.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/Onael/Forums/IMG_20120823_171755.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/Onael/Forums/IMG_20120823_171805.jpg
DeesBalls
08-23-12, 05:23 PM
looking very nice !!!!!
It's been sprinkling off and on all day. Would it be okay to apply more lacquer in this weather?
Gungirl
08-24-12, 12:28 PM
I would hold off until the air dries out a bit.. That's just me though.
I would hold off until the air dries out a bit.. That's just me though.
What a waste of day. I guess I can do some homework. Blah
Got it done! Well, done enough, anyway.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/Onael/Forums/IMG_20120829_234127.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/Onael/Forums/IMG_20120829_234113.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/Onael/Forums/IMG_20120829_234157.jpg
I still want to wrap the stand and turn it into a cabinet for storage. Tomorrow I'm installing the heat pad. I wanna set the enclosure up and run it for at least 24 hours before I move him.
gareth.hooper
08-29-12, 11:32 PM
Looking good, well done.
Terranaut
08-30-12, 09:02 AM
Looks great. Good job.
Looks great. Good job.
i like it.
Thank you.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/Onael/Forums/IMG_20120830_184736.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/Onael/Forums/IMG_20120830_184742.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/Onael/Forums/IMG_20120830_184714.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v173/Onael/Forums/IMG_20120830_184752.jpg
I got it set up but the lacquer smell came back and Spencer didn't like it. He kept crawling out while it was opened. The heater seemed to activate the smell. So I'm letting it run until the smell goes away. Besides that though, I'm really happy with how it turned out. Once I consolidate my receipts I'll post what I spent on it. Thanks to everyone for your input.
Looking good, well done.
Thank you.
Here is what it cost me to build this enclosure. Items listed were purchased at Home Depot specifically for use in this project.
Board, wood - 3" x 36" x 1/2" (Pallet wood)-----$0.00
Screws, wood - #6 x 1 5/8"-------------------------$4.37
Board, Wood - 2" x 4" x 48" (Corner posts)-----$3.18
Board, Plywood - 1/2" x 24" x 48" (Bottom)-----$8.64
Board, Plywood - 1/4" x 24" x 48" (Top)---------$8.57
Board, wood - 1" x 4" x 10" (Glass frame)-------$5.48
Hasp - Small--------------------------------------------$2.37
TOTAL: $32.61 before sales tax.
Thanks again, everyone.
There isn't another heat source in this enclosure besides the 20 gallon UTH. Can I use something like this for my new ball python? Do I need to install an overhead heat source?
Yeah you need to let the lacquer cure for about 3 weeks. With how it is setup now if your hotspot and the ambient temps are good you wont need an additional heat source. It looks really good. Especially it being mostly made from the pallets. Congrats on a job well done. :)
bcoop1234
10-26-12, 12:12 PM
So you have a snake cage on top of a critter cage... That's awesome. So if the one in the bottom gets annoying you can just throw it in the one on top. Then no more problem.
Danimal
10-26-12, 01:33 PM
Speaking of pallets, I used to work at a mill work supplier years ago. All our stair parts came packed on a pallet (and sometimes brace boards as well) made from the same material as the parts usually. Meaning if the parts were Oak or Poplar, so were the pallets.
I made all kinds of stuff out of those pallets. Really good for trim pieces. Might be worth looking into if any of you have a place like that around your area. Most of the time they just throw those pallets away.
Speaking of pallets, I used to work at a mill work supplier years ago. All our stair parts came packed on a pallet (and sometimes brace boards as well) made from the same material as the parts usually. Meaning if the parts were Oak or Poplar, so were the pallets.
I made all kinds of stuff out of those pallets. Really good for trim pieces. Might be worth looking into if any of you have a place like that around your area. Most of the time they just throw those pallets away.
Absolutely. The most time-consuming part of the whole build was having to take the pallets apart without splitting the boards.
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