View Full Version : Feeding...Just a few questions...
Is it really that bad to take a snake out of his enclosure when feeding? I've always done this with my BP. It gives me a good time to clean out his tank, wipe it down and wash out his water bowl. I understand with the retic it's going to be quite a bit different and I won't be able to do this, but in general...is it really that bad to do?
Also, what's a good way to get a bp to eat rats?! Mine is super picky..he eats mice. Period. Hold a rat out to him? He won't even strike it. Hold out a mouse? Snaps it up no problem. >.> I feed frozen, and this is all he's ever had.
MoreliAddict
08-02-12, 03:04 PM
In general:
I don't want my snakes to associate handling/leaving the enclosure with feeding - first and foremost.
Also, a snake is much more likely to eat when it feels secure and comfortable, removing a snake from its enclosure could lead to added stress, and less successful feedings.
All the big breeders who produce thousands of animals feed inside the enclosure, it would just be too much work to do otherwise.
Lot's of controversy on this subject though, feeding in the enclosure is just what works best for me.
DeesBalls
08-02-12, 03:07 PM
same, feed all 20 in tank/tub and everything goes great!
Is it bad to take him out though? He's never struck at me or anything (in the 3 years I've had him)...I just find it a good time to clean is all xD
DeesBalls
08-02-12, 03:14 PM
while feedng you should really mess with them.. depending on what your feeding, some snakes have a strong feeding response (retic/burm) so you will get hit,
after feeding, if you handle you could cause a regurgitaion, its good to leave them alone after feeding for about 24-36 hrs, some say up to 48 hrs..
if you feed in the cage/enclosure i guess you could do some spot cleaning here and there while s/he is eating, but i would just wait to clean until its not a feeding day...
Lankyrob
08-02-12, 04:48 PM
I feed in the viv and keep cleaning and feeding separate.
Good to know. Thanks everyone =3 Now how about getting him to take rats?
Jlassiter
08-02-12, 06:05 PM
IMHO.....there is NO reason that benefits any snake to feed them in a separate container/enclosure.....just my opinion....
DeesBalls
08-02-12, 06:13 PM
Good to know. Thanks everyone =3 Now how about getting him to take rats?
what i did was just keep trying... mine would only eat live mice... eventually switched to f/t rats... just gotta keep trying, if she refuses, dont feed her a mouse... it will take alot sometimes to switch them over...
I tried fasting him, and he still wouldn't take the rat =/
Rogue628
08-02-12, 06:26 PM
Royals are picky eaters. Some will switch quickly and some won't. Personally the only one I've ever experienced an issue with as far as switching was a burm....and she was an extremely hard switch. Took a bit of thinking outside the box and months of patience. My royals switched with no problem.
As long as your animal is growing at a healthy rate on mice, I wouldn't worry about switching just yet. There are several little tricks that you can use in getting an animal to switch. Sometimes all it takes is tempting them with a live feeder instead of f/t or pre killed. Sometimes you can scent the rat with the mouse. You can also brain a mouse an rub it on the rat. I've tried using another food source as a middle step between mice and rats (chicks) and that has helped. Some people will tell you to hold out. They will eat it when they finally get hungry. Don't try to offer food often. Stay with the same feeding schedule you're using now. Switching can definitely try your patience and cause you endless and oftentimes, needless worry over your animal. I'm sure there are other tricks I've probably overlooked.
You mentioned a retic. Are you considering purchasing one?
The thing is, at 3 years old, he's still itty bitty. He's around 3ft, but his girth is maybe 2 inches at his fattest point =/ That's part of the reason I'm trying to get him on rats.
Here's a pic of about a week ago:
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b205/BuriedMyselfAlive333/IMAG0445.jpg
(this was while cleaning his green thing I have on the bottom of his cage. Switching to cypress soon, it's just hard to get ahold of where I'm at)
And Yes =3 My friend, who breeds boas and bps has a retic he was going to breed. He decided against it at this point and time due to his space limitations for keeping at least 2 retics. He wanted a good home for his boy, and knows I like snakes, so I was his first choice. I'm very excited for this experience, though a little nervous too -3
DeesBalls
08-02-12, 06:42 PM
i agree... if he is eating mice, nothing really wrong with that... as long as hes eating, and growing (eventuallY) it is fine... im pretty sure they can live off mice. they make jumbo mice so dont see why not.
That's good to know. I just always see people's balls that are so fat, and my guy is so skinny...healthy, but skinny. Always has been (got him right after his first shed/feed). (btw, it's not sexed. I call it a he cause I'm pretty sure that's what it is. My breeder friend is going to sex it for me sometime soon...I just never cared cause i'm not breeding xD)
shaunyboy
08-02-12, 07:03 PM
Is it bad to take him out though? He's never struck at me or anything (in the 3 years I've had him)...I just find it a good time to clean is all xD
the only problem i can think of,is a snake may regurgitate being handled so soon after feeding
i must admit its never happened to any of the carpet pythons,i take out to feed,due to me keeping more than 1 snake per tank
re cleaning
i only spot clean as required,only cleaning the tank with,anti bacterial and anti viral solutions,once every 6 or 7 months
re crossing from,mice to rats
stop offering mice altogether
scent a rat with a mouse,heat the rat and mouse with a hairdryer,until they feel the same temperature as a live rat...
then burst the mouse open and smear mouse blood and guts,ALL over the rat
give the rat another quick heat,then offer to your snake
i've found braining helps...
puncture the rats skull 2 or 3 times with a pair of scissors,until a grey liquid seeps out,give the head an extra heat,then offer to your snake
you CAN brain BRAIN and SCENT at the SAME time mate
cheers shaun
the only problem i can think of,is a snake may regurgitate being handled so soon after feeding
i must admit its never happened to any of the carpet pythons,i take out to feed,due to me keeping more than 1 snake per tank
re cleaning
i only spot clean as required,only cleaning the tank with,anti bacterial and anti viral solutions,once every 6 or 7 months
re crossing from,mice to rats
stop offering mice altogether
scent a rat with a mouse,heat the rat and mouse with a hairdryer,until they feel the same temperature as a live rat...
then burst the mouse open and smear mouse blood and guts,ALL over the rat
give the rat another quick heat,then offer to your snake
i've found braining helps...
puncture the rats skull 2 or 3 times with a pair of scissors,until a grey liquid seeps out,give the head an extra heat,then offer to your snake
you CAN brain BRAIN and SCENT at the SAME time mate
cheers shaun
He won't eat burst mice....but I can try smearing the guts on the rat. I was also going to try heating the rat, drying him off and letting him set in some mouse bedding a while
Rogue628
08-02-12, 07:33 PM
A friend of mine took in a 10 year old royal a few months ago who has never switched. She has always eaten mice and won't take a rat for anything. She is perfectly healthy and seems quite happy.
I have a male royal who goes off feed for no reason at all. He'll lose a few grams but is still healthy and about as active as a royal gets lol. I think he does it as a self diet as he'll plump up, almost to the point I think about cutting his food back and he does it himself. And he still sheds for me about once every 6 weeks or so.
Royals can just be finicky creatures. I honestly wouldn't worry about him. :)
alessia55
08-02-12, 07:39 PM
One reason to feed inside the enclosure is that it will reduce stress. Moving your snake out of the enclosure can be stressful and can cause your snake to refuse to eat. It's also uncomfortable for the snake to be handled with a full stomach.
Getting him to switch? Just wait it out. I was able to switch my older boy from live MICE to f/t rats... but it took 5 months. He was at a healthy weight, so it didn't hurt him to go so long without food. Click on my website (in my signature)... go to the Feeding page, and scroll down. I have a video and an explanation to help you entice him to eat the rat. Remember, patience is key!!
Tekpc007
08-02-12, 07:47 PM
I was always worried about substrate being eaten when feeding in the tub/enclosure/RUB...then i bought a 12"x12" ceramic tile for 3 $ and put it in the cage and try to get them to feed on it , works most of the time unless they move the food around.
One reason to feed inside the enclosure is that it will reduce stress. Moving your snake out of the enclosure can be stressful and can cause your snake to refuse to eat. It's also uncomfortable for the snake to be handled with a full stomach.
Getting him to switch? Just wait it out. I was able to switch my older boy from live MICE to f/t rats... but it took 5 months. He was at a healthy weight, so it didn't hurt him to go so long without food. Click on my website (in my signature)... go to the Feeding page, and scroll down. I have a video and an explanation to help you entice him to eat the rat. Remember, patience is key!!
Haha, it's just crazy that they can go that long! I got nervous when I was moving, and he went about a month without eating (the week he was supposed to feed, he wouldn't eat. Next week I fasted him for the long trip. Week after he wouldn't eat again. then he FINALLY ate like a week after that =S)
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