First time hoggie owner :)

[shayna]

Hi everyone,

I am picking up my first Western hognose next Sunday. It will be a male and he hatched on May 5th. I'm pretty sure I've read every hognose post on here (and many other forums!) but I still have a few questions.

#1. I would rather use a glass tank than a bin to house him in. I'm hoping to get one with front doors, like an Exo Terra or Penn Plax style terrarium. What approximate size should I be shopping for? Am I able to get one that will last him his entire life, or will he feel too vulnerable in a larger area?
#2. How often do you normally feed a hatchling?
#3. Should I be dropping the temperature down at night, or leave it at the same day time temperature 24/7?
#4. Has anyone noticed a difference in aggression between males and females?

Any other advice for a newbie is appreciated as always.
Also, if anyone could post pictures of their set-ups that would be great! :)
Thank you in advance!

[marvelfreak]

I don't know much about Hoggies, but we do have a few members who have them and can help you.

[kernel]

Male hognose only get about 18 inches, so the Exo Terra 24" x 18" x 18" or the Zoomed 18" x 18" x 18" should last him his entire life. As long as they several hides and 2-3 inches of aspen to burrow in, you can get one that will last his entire life.

I would feed a hatchling every 5 days, then every 7 days once he's an adult.

You can drop the temp 10-15 degrees at night, but they will do just fine if you don't.

There's no difference in temperament between males and females, I just prefer female because of their larger size.

I don't really have any other advice, they just require very basic snake care.

If you have anymore questions just ask. We have several hognose keepers here, so if I'm not available, they can help.

[StudentoReptile]

Ditto on pretty much all Kernel said.

Either of those terrariums should be fine.

I never have bothered to fluctuate the temps of any of my snakes for daytime/nighttime, and they have done fine.

They like it a tad warmer than the average colubrid, probably ambient in the low-mid 80's F and a 95'F warm spot.

Any reasonably dry, loose substrate should be fine, although I personally would avoid sand or walnut bedding.

[MoreliAddict]

Just a heads up, hognose eat frogs in the wild, and need to be conditioned to eat mice in captivity. This is usually done buy using a frog to "scent" a mouse.

Personally, I'd only buy a hognose that is already taking mice without a problem, just my 2 cents.

[shayna]

Thanks everyone!
I am fully aware of the issues that may come along with feeding these guys. I am buying from a very reputable breeder so the hatchlings they have will certainly be started well on f/t pinkies.
I also plan on using shredded aspen as the substrate.

Any photos of your set-ups would be great! :)

[Gregg M]

#1. I would rather use a glass tank than a bin to house him in. I'm hoping to get one with front doors, like an Exo Terra or Penn Plax style terrarium. What approximate size should I be shopping for? Am I able to get one that will last him his entire life, or will he feel too vulnerable in a larger area?

Anything roughly the size of a 20 gallon would be good for an adult male. Some hatchlings can feel insecure in wide open spaces. Just give it plenty of substrate to burrow in and he will be fine. Worst case senario, you will have to house him in smaller quarters for a little while.

#2. How often do you normally feed a hatchling? You sould feed hatchlings every 3 days. Any less than that and you will slow its natural growth dramatically. These are nothing like corn snakes or king snakes. Just because it is a north american colubrid it does not mean it should be kept like the others.

#3. Should I be dropping the temperature down at night, or leave it at the same day time temperature 24/7? Keep the temps constant. No need for a night time drop at all.

#4. Has anyone noticed a difference in aggression between males and females? They are all equally chill. Huffy and puffy but rarely ever go out of their way to bite. Most calm down and are as good as gold.

Any other advice for a newbie is appreciated as always.
Also, if anyone could post pictures of their set-ups that would be great! :)
Thank you in advance!

Keep them hot. Hot spot temps should be in the low 90's. Ambient and cool side temps should range around 80.

[shayna]

Thanks, Gregg!

One more question. I've never used an UTH with any of my reptiles before and I really don't know much about them other than you should use a thermostat with them. So I was wondering if I should be putting something (cage carpet, etc) down under the substrate to prevent burns?

[StudentoReptile]

Thanks, Gregg!

One more question. I've never used an UTH with any of my reptiles before and I really don't know much about them other than you should use a thermostat with them. So I was wondering if I should be putting something (cage carpet, etc) down under the substrate to prevent burns?

I never have. If you use a thermostat, you shouldn't have any issues.

[Toronto1977]

Thanks, Gregg!

One more question. I've never used an UTH with any of my reptiles before and I really don't know much about them other than you should use a thermostat with them. So I was wondering if I should be putting something (cage carpet, etc) down under the substrate to prevent burns?

In my experience Aspen doesn't distribute the heat evenly when using a UTH, and the heated area get's way too hot. Cypress mulch, Repti bark, etc would be fine when using a UTH. A thermostat isn't necessary but you'll definitely want a thermometre.

[StudentoReptile]

A thermostat isn't necessary with a UTH, but you'll definitely want a thermometre. In my experience Aspen doesn't distribute the heat evenly when using a UTH, and the heated area get's way too hot.

I beg to differ. I used to subscribe to the notion that as long as the UTH is used on a glass tank, you're fine. But recently, I used my temp gun to take a reading inside the tank where my ratsnake resided. It was around 100'F right on the top of the substrate and 140'F directly on the glass above the UTH.

Bedding used is cypress mulch.

[Ivalynfyre]

I beg to differ. I used to subscribe to the notion that as long as the UTH is used on a glass tank, you're fine. But recently, I used my temp gun to take a reading inside the tank where my ratsnake resided. It was around 100'F right on the top of the substrate and 140'F directly on the glass above the UTH.

Bedding used is cypress mulch.

Sorry to pop in here without any real advice, but I agree, you do need a thermostat. I've had a snake get burned because a lack of one.

[kernel]

Anything roughly the size of a 20 gallon would be good for an adult male. Some hatchlings can feel insecure in wide open spaces. Just give it plenty of substrate to burrow in and he will be fine. Worst case senario, you will have to house him in smaller quarters for a little while.

You sould feed hatchlings every 3 days. Any less than that and you will slow its natural growth dramatically. These are nothing like corn snakes or king snakes. Just because it is a north american colubrid it does not mean it should be kept like the others.

Keep the temps constant. No need for a night time drop at all.

They are all equally chill. Huffy and puffy but rarely ever go out of their way to bite. Most calm down and are as good as gold.



Keep them hot. Hot spot temps should be in the low 90's. Ambient and cool side temps should range around 80.

Not doubting your experience, but my experience has been that hatchlings thrive on a feeding schedule of every 5 days. Their growth doesn't seem the least bit stunted on that schedule. Except for the increased feeding, they thrive when given the same conditions as corns, rats, kings etc.

[Toronto1977]

I beg to differ. I used to subscribe to the notion that as long as the UTH is used on a glass tank, you're fine. But recently, I used my temp gun to take a reading inside the tank where my ratsnake resided. It was around 100'F right on the top of the substrate and 140'F directly on the glass above the UTH.

Bedding used is cypress mulch.

100F and 140F is extremely high. Your UTH might be defective. My UTH has never reached those temps and my snakes have never been burnt. As I said, some subsrates are better than others at more evenly distributing heat - which is not only applicable to reptile substrate, but also when comparing tiles to brick to hardwood, and any natural product(s).

[shayna]

Thank you for all of the info everyone. I will be using a thermostat just to be safe. I own quite a few tarantulas and lizards so I've invested in a good temp gun. :)

Since some of you have mentioned cypress mulch, how does it compare to the aspen shavings? Wouldn't it hold in too much moisture for a hognose?

[StudentoReptile]

100F and 140F is extremely high. Your UTH might be defective. My UTH has never reached those temps and my snakes have never been burnt. As I said, some subsrates are better than others at more evenly distributing heat - which is not only applicable to reptile substrate, but also when comparing tiles to brick to hardwood, and any natural product(s).

Well...(as I indulge myself in a knowing chuckle), I know I am far from the only person in the hobby who has experienced this problem. I have had heard of it happening with UTHs of different sizes and brands.

Yes, I do heartily agree it is probably defective, as any man-made product. Because of the fallibility of the products as a whole, one can choose to simply not use them at all, or to take extra measures to ensure the safety of the animals we use them for: i.e. get a thermostat! ;)

[kernel]

Thank you for all of the info everyone. I will be using a thermostat just to be safe. I own quite a few tarantulas and lizards so I've invested in a good temp gun. :)

Since some of you have mentioned cypress mulch, how does it compare to the aspen shavings? Wouldn't it hold in too much moisture for a hognose?

I use cypress mulch for my moisture loving snakes (like carpet pythons), but aspen is the best substrate for hognose. It looks nice, allows them to easily burrow and is absorbent.

[Toronto1977]

Well...(as I indulge myself in a knowing chuckle), I know I am far from the only person in the hobby who has experienced this problem. I have had heard of it happening with UTHs of different sizes and brands.

Yes, I do heartily agree it is probably defective, as any man-made product. Because of the fallibility of the products as a whole, one can choose to simply not use them at all, or to take extra measures to ensure the safety of the animals we use them for: i.e. get a thermostat! ;)

As with most subjects there are and always will be different schools of thought, and many will have different experiences when dealing with the same topic (as is the case here lol).

Precautionary measures are always a good thing, and I agree with that. I was merely relaying my personal experience :)

[Gregg M]

Not doubting your experience, but my experience has been that hatchlings thrive on a feeding schedule of every 5 days. Their growth doesn't seem the least bit stunted on that schedule. Except for the increased feeding, they thrive when given the same conditions as corns, rats, kings etc.

Thriving and living are two different things. What do you consider thriving?

My females are breeding in a little over a year old. Males are breeding at 9 months. You can feed your snakes how you like but it is well agreed between experienced keepers and breeders that hogs should be kept much warmer and fed more often than other North American colubrids. Proof is in the results. There is a reason why breeders and keepers are much more successful with the species now compared to 8-10 years ago.

I am willing to bet hogs eating every 5 days are half the size they should be.

Also, female hogs that just lay eggs and do not feed at least every 3 days will take a long time to bounce back and will most likely not have a very successful second clutch.

Again, hogs have different needs than corns, kings, and milks and should not be treated the same in captivity.

[StudentoReptile]

As with most subjects there are and always will be different schools of thought, and many will have different experiences when dealing with the same topic (as is the case here lol).

Precautionary measures are always a good thing, and I agree with that. I was merely relaying my personal experience :)

Indeed.

And this was with a brand of UTH that I have sworn by for years, never having an issue using them on glass aquaria without thermostats before this instance.

[kernel]

Thriving and living are two different things. What do you consider thriving?

My females are breeding in a little over a year old. Males are breeding at 9 months. You can feed your snakes how you like but it is well agreed between experienced keepers and breeders that hogs should be kept much warmer and fed more often than other North American colubrids. Proof is in the results. There is a reason why breeders and keepers are much more successful with the species now compared to 8-10 years ago.

I am willing to bet hogs eating every 5 days are half the size they should be.

Also, female hogs that just lay eggs and do not feed at least every 3 days will take a long time to bounce back and will most likely not have a very successful second clutch.

Again, hogs have different needs than corns, kings, and milks and should not be treated the same in captivity.

I call growing like crazy and eating like a pig thriving.

[Gregg M]

I call growing like crazy and eating like a pig thriving.

What do you consider "growing like crazy"? Not tying to sound like a jerk, but you have a single female hognose snake and I have 30 hogs and half of them are breeders. Most of which I hatched myself. Not to mention over 30 eggs incubating right now with a few females left to lay and I have not even double clutched my animals yet.

You say you are not trying to argue my experience. The fact is, you are. It is fine that you do, but you must have expected me to retort.