Let's talk thermostats

[millertime89]

This is often a question many newcomers to the hobby ask, what's the best thermostat on the market (especially after being told the often much cheaper rheostats aren't worth it)? This is often accompanied by a request for a quality vs cost analysis, so I figured, why not start our own thread and discuss this here?

Here's my 2 cents:
The professional breeders and "professional hobbyists" seem to sing the praises of the herpstat line. The retic community especially seems to love them. The downfall is these get kind of expensive. For the basic grounded herpstat (I chose grounded over ungrounded simply for safety reasons, the extra 10 dollars seems worth it) is generally between 115 and 120. Its proportional, durable (longevity and extreme conditions) but doesn't seem to be directed towards the heat mat crowd (max temp is 110) or anybody keeping animals that need significantly higher temps. (looking at you Sav keepers). This minor drawback spans their entire rang as well. You can also order one with the nightdrop (ND) feature that allows you to drop temps at night for an extra 30ish dollars. Another drawback is the wattage output, the basic one only can handle 500 watts, and even the pro is limited to 400 watts per outlet (it has 4 outlets).

The vivarium electronics also seem to be a good alternative, but the basic model costs around $85. It looks good, is grounded, and is stackable for a nice display. It has a max temp of 140 but its an extra 25 dollars for the box that enables the night drop feature. The VE line ranges from a 700 watt max output for the lowest model to 900 for the top of the line one. Not bad, but not great.

Hydrofarm: I think I'm gonna order one of these and give it a try. For $26 dollars, why not right?
Hydrofarm Heat Mat Electronic Temperature Controller (http://www.allterraindepot.com/Hydrofarm-Heat-Mat-Electronic-Temperature-Controller-MTPRTC_p_37395.html)
max temp is a little low for my liking, but its higher than the thermostats I'm using now. (108deg) and are marketed specifically for heat mats. Max output is good at 1000 watts.

The Ranco units seems to be a decent option as well, and have been vouched for by several retic breeders. The basic unit ($50-60) seems like a reasonable starting point but it requires the purchaser to wire in a power strip on their own before its fully functional. For $80 you can get it pre-wired with a 6 outlet strip and you're ready to roll. Max temp is 220F (dunno what you would need that for) and max output is an astounding 1500 watts.
The Johnson A 419 is almost identical to the Ranco unit but requires more wiring than the Ranco. Its 100 dollars for the equivalent to the $80 Ranco (wired with a 6 plug power strip).

Lux WIN100 are the in home thermostats that I buy and extend the thermosensor cable on. They've been working well for me for the past few months (I've made 2 and sold a few others) but because of their limited max temp (90F) I have to have the thermosensor in the enclosure (not particularly worrying because I have a burrower and a hider) but to be completely safe I would like to have the sensor between the heat mat and the tub. Max output is the highest in the group however at a ridiculous 1800 watts To work it does require some work but its been reliable.

The Helix units are another unit that comes with a good reputation from the retic community as well. I can't seem to find the max temp on these units, but overall they're very similar to the herpstat units. Price for the basic unit is 130, grounded is 137 and you have to buy a night drop module for an extra 30 dollars to get that feature (similar to the VE series). Max output is 500 watts per unit. There are several other accessories available.

feel free to post up other thermostats out there that you've used along with what your experiences are and what you've read about.
hey Wayne, sticky?

[Norm66]

Nice post. Very informative. I went w/ the VE-100 because it seemed like it would do the job easily with minimum outlay. I'm not convinced the more expensive proportional units are worthwhile for rack applications where the probe is on the outside of the enclosures either. Sure the probe temp cycles 4 or 5 degrees but the temp inside the enclosure probably cycles much less than that depending on insulation, size, ventilation etc. For incubating eggs I can see where it would be more critical though.

[millertime89]

Norms post in his thread about his 28qt rack build has convinced me to give one of the Hydrofarm thermostats a try, I'll post up my results.

[shaunyboy]

i think these stats are one of the best out there,although expensive you can run 4 tanks,with with 4 seperate stat probs with these stats

MICROCLIMATE ADVANCED DIGITAL CONTROL SYSTEM (http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CB4QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sussexreptiles.co.uk%2Fmicroc limate-advanced-digital-control-system-726-p.asp&rct=j&q=microclimate%20proffesional%20thermostats&ei=IWDmTOrxNoiAhAfJ3tDgDA&usg=AFQjCNEE0Vi7m2gnpSlHeqyEXKTFNr8cBg&cad=rja)

i use individual microclimate pulse and dimming stats at present,but hope to one day get one from the link, to control my diamond python tanks

cheers shaun

[spots]

Great info Kyle.
I'm needing to find a thermostat as I'm in the middle of building a rack for my BP's.

[knox]

I have always loved the Herpstats. I have also used, with success, the Hydrofarm.

I also always keep a dimmer on hand for those "just in case" scenarios. They are great, inexpensive tools for stable temps. I don't worry about fluctuations from 5 - 8 degrees in my house. Snakes encounter this and more every day in the wild.

There isn't much difference between 84 and 89 degrees in the hot spot as long as the ambient temperature doesn't go much above 92 during the hottest part of the day. Generally, though, if the heat mat is at 90 because the indoor house temperature went up 10 degrees in the summer, it doesn't do much to raise the air temp from under the substrate. As long as the snake can get to a spot around 78 degrees for thermoregulation, dimmers work just fine.

I know they get a "bad rap", but a dimmer is a great, inexpensive alternative in a room that has temperatures that do not fluctuate more than 5 - 10 degrees year round. And it doesn't hurt to check them once or twice a week, either.

[millertime89]

MICROCLIMATE ADVANCED DIGITAL CONTROL SYSTEM (http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CB4QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sussexreptiles.co.uk%2Fmicroc limate-advanced-digital-control-system-726-p.asp&rct=j&q=microclimate%20proffesional%20thermostats&ei=IWDmTOrxNoiAhAfJ3tDgDA&usg=AFQjCNEE0Vi7m2gnpSlHeqyEXKTFNr8cBg&cad=rja)
cheers shaun

link doesn't work bud.

I also always keep a dimmer on hand for those "just in case" scenarios. They are great, inexpensive tools for stable temps. I don't worry about fluctuations from 5 - 8 degrees in my house. Snakes encounter this and more every day in the wild.

That's not a bad idea at all.

[GarterPython]

Nice Info Thanks

[millertime89]

ordered the hydrofarm, results to come.

[shaunyboy]

link doesn't work bud.

i've tried seaching for another link but its looking like they don't make that stat anymore ?

it was a digital unit you could programme to run 4 seperate tanks,with their own probes

it was £165,which sounds a lot,but divide it by the 4 tanks it ran and imo it was good for the money

cheers shaun

[millertime89]

yeah, that sounds like a good price, can you post a picture of what they looked like?

[shaunyboy]

yeah, that sounds like a good price, can you post a picture of what they looked like?

sorry mate that link was all i had bookmarked from a while back

it resembled a cb radio,it was blue,with a digital read out,loads of buttons

you could programme each tank for 7 days day/night time temps

you could also recall old data,temps etc and get a last 7 days reading on each tank

i'll see if i can find an old site with a pic of it or something ?

cheers shaun

[Strutter769]

I also always keep a dimmer on hand for those "just in case" scenarios. They are great, inexpensive tools for stable temps. I don't worry about fluctuations from 5 - 8 degrees in my house. Snakes encounter this and more every day in the wild.

There isn't much difference between 84 and 89 degrees in the hot spot as long as the ambient temperature doesn't go much above 92 during the hottest part of the day. Generally, though, if the heat mat is at 90 because the indoor house temperature went up 10 degrees in the summer, it doesn't do much to raise the air temp from under the substrate. As long as the snake can get to a spot around 78 degrees for thermoregulation, dimmers work just fine.r.

I am completely ignorant to this topic (and electricity) and really need to learn more about it. I currently have a ZooMed HygroTherm® and it seems ok for my needs at this point in time, but I know I will need to upgrade when I reluctantly move to a rack system.

Can someone please explain (in PM if desired, so as not to waste others' time) how I would wire heat tape for example, to a stat and dimmer?

Thanks!

[millertime89]

the hygrotherm actually looks like a decent little device for single viv set ups.
When I bought heat tape I just called up the guys at Reptile Basics and talked to them about my setup and what I wanted. The guy I spoke with had some great ideas and we both came to the same conclusion about what would be best. What I'm doing for my rack set up is I'm going to have the thermsensor attached to the center tub and have all identical sized tubs ran from that.

What EXACTLY do you mean by a dimmer? I got into this... lets call it a discussion, about them a few days ago.

[Strutter769]

the hygrotherm actually looks like a decent little device for single viv set ups.
When I bought heat tape I just called up the guys at Reptile Basics and talked to them about my setup and what I wanted. The guy I spoke with had some great ideas and we both came to the same conclusion about what would be best. What I'm doing for my rack set up is I'm going to have the thermsensor attached to the center tub and have all identical sized tubs ran from that.

What EXACTLY do you mean by a dimmer? I got into this... lets call it a discussion, about them a few days ago.

"Dimmer" is another name for a rheostat. I'd love to see your projest step-by-step if that's at all possible? I'll be needing to build racks soon. I've seen.some nice examples on YouTube but those don't seem to be very detailed when it comes to heat and temp regulation.

[shaunyboy]

please let me know if you track down a supplier of those fancy digital microclimate stats mate

i'd like to get one later in the year to run all my diamond tanks

cheers shaun

[millertime89]

"Dimmer" is another name for a rheostat. I'd love to see your projest step-by-step if that's at all possible? I'll be needing to build racks soon. I've seen.some nice examples on YouTube but those don't seem to be very detailed when it comes to heat and temp regulation.

That's what I thought, I refuse to use them just on principle. I'm a bit of a snob at times and the thought of using something that controls voltage versus actual temp just doesn't sit well with me.

As far as my rack "build" its done.
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0940.sized.jpg

I'm waiting for the new t-stats to come in then I'll get the flexwatt setup.

[millertime89]

Shaun, in my searchings I'm not finding any place that sells those thermostats in the US or UK. Looks to be mostly Auzzy shops. For the price of them as well I would run a Herpstat Pro, almost half the price and does roughly the same. Even at the lowest price that was claimed in the link you sent me ($509) its still a 150 dollar difference.

[pythons9991]

i recently got a herpstat 4 which is the upgraded herpstat pro, it is amazing so many features built in night drop, able to control/dimm/time lighting, 4 individual probes 4 grounded outlets 400 watts each i dunno why you would need more wattage than this? i highly recomend this unit it will cost you about just under 400 cdn but well worth it, it has sunrise/sunset simulations, slowly ramps up power for initial warmups, you can also control temp cool downs and warm ups over ten hours to coincide with lighting check it out at spyder robotics,

[red ink]

I use analouge thermostats in my enclosures, they measure ambient air temps and switch off the heat source once the air temps in the area the thermostat is located in reaches a set parameter.

For the species in tubs that use UTH as well as the incubator I use Habistat thermostats.

[shaunyboy]

Shaun, in my searchings I'm not finding any place that sells those thermostats in the US or UK. Looks to be mostly Auzzy shops. For the price of them as well I would run a Herpstat Pro, almost half the price and does roughly the same. Even at the lowest price that was claimed in the link you sent me ($509) its still a 150 dollar difference.

thanks for the info mate

i'll look those stats up,as thats the first i heard of them.i think i had tunnel vision on the microclimate one,as it looked like it had everything covered

cheers shaun

[knox]

That's what I thought, I refuse to use them just on principle. I'm a bit of a snob at times and the thought of using something that controls voltage versus actual temp just doesn't sit well with me.
Proportional thermostats do control voltage. They just do so based on temperature. A rheostat is simply a manual proportional thermostat. Keep a temperature guage on your hot spot and you are good to go.

[pythons9991]

millertime some of the info posted about herpstats is innacurate such as max temp and wattage output check out spyder robotics for specs

[Lankyrob]

Proportional thermostats do control voltage. They just do so based on temperature. A rheostat is simply a manual proportional thermostat. Keep a temperature guage on your hot spot and you are good to go.

BUT - should ambient conditions change and you arent around to adjust the rheostat then the temps in the cage will be wrong, whereas the thermostat will adapt automatically whatever the external conditions :)

[Shmoges]

I have two http://www.vivariumelectronics.com/images/ve-100-sm.jpg And absolutely love them. I don't need another brand with 1500 watts and to be honest other brands need to take notice of this design and step it up. I think its ridiculous to have to pick up your thermo to see its read out or hang it from a string lol

[millertime89]

millertime some of the info posted about herpstats is innacurate such as max temp and wattage output check out spyder robotics for specs

Thanks, I was basing my info off of a few re-sellers, I'll update accordingly.

BUT - should ambient conditions change and you arent around to adjust the rheostat then the temps in the cage will be wrong, whereas the thermostat will adapt automatically whatever the external conditions :)

ding ding ding, if I could perfectly control every aspect, a rheostat would be ok, but I can't, so thermostat it is.

I have two, And absolutely love them. I don't need another brand with 1500 watts and to be honest other brands need to take notice of this design and step it up. I think its ridiculous to have to pick up your thermo to see its read out or hang it from a string lol

I concur, the VE series are, in my opinion, the best looking t-stats on the market right now.

[red ink]

Forgive me for saying this guys but I think you guys are over doing it with the whole thermostat thing.

Realistically a snake will move to thermoregulate to an ideal spot. So the only thing that you really need to do is provide a heat source that will allow them to reach their prefered body temps while not exceed safe parameters i.e. not cook the snake.

It pretty easy to achieve that as people would know what the prefered basking temp of the species in their custody is and they will provide that. If that prefered temps fluctuates by 5C the snake will just simply move. The main danger is under heating the enclosure rather than over heating as any thermostat will shut the heat source off when it senses the set tempetaure parameters what it cant do is heat the enclosure up beyond what the heat source can provide.

Provide a sufficient cool side for the specimen to escape to, provide a sufficient and safe hot side that will not cook/burn where they can get body heat and the snake will do the rest.

[millertime89]

the problem is in areas like where I live that the temps, even in my appartment, can fluctuate wildly, by using a programmable thermostat and monitoring I can ensure the best environment for my snakes. For example, when I get up in the morning my room is a balmy (to me) 68 degrees, that's dangerous, possibly RI inducing temps for my snakes. However in the evening when everyone is home and people are moving around the appartment hits mid-upper 70s (yay for being on the top floor of the building, heat rises). My snakes thermoregulate as it is with a hot spot in the mid 80s, but the thermostat allows me to keep the ambient temps in their vivs perfect despite the temp changes in the room around them.

[red ink]

I totally understand what your saying miller, what I'm trying to say is a $40 thermostat or a $400 thermostat in terms of what they do and the effect on the setup is the same thing. I live in an area that does the same except as I stated my cheap thermostats are analouge and measure air temps my air temps never drop below 25C. More than plenty for the species that I keep.

I have that air temp measurement in co-relation to my basking spot heat i.e. if my air temps are 25C then my heat source is heating the basking spot from anywhere between 29-36C quite a fluctuation but it does not exceed safe parameters. If the ambient air temps in summer stay above the set parameters the heat sources do not go on. I think we need to remember that pythons are predominantly nocturnal, sure they bask on things that have residual heat from the day i.e. branches or rocks but that residual heat may only last for a couple of hours after the sun goes down the rest of the time they're sustained by ambient air temps (particularly equatorial species), during the day they hide or may partially bask in direct sun.

I'm sure they enjoy and thrive with a hot basking spot but it's not the be all and end all of their physiology.

If they don't have a hot basking spot for a few days but rely on air temps instead they'll be just fine.

I do use some pretty accurate thermostats on some of my set ups like my racks/incubators but simply because I'm providing UTH rather than heating an enclosure.

I'm not saying be complacent either just a friendly nudge that sometimes reptile products are over doing it just cause they can and they know they have the "market" for it and charge some ridiculous prices.

[millertime89]

You can call me Kyle, if I didn't want people using it I wouldn't have put it in my signature.

I see what you're getting at now. The majority of those higher-end t-stats are used for racks and on breeding setups. The purpose for this thread is to see what everyone is using for their various setups and to have a good resource for people new to this hobby to reference what people have used and liked so they can make an informed decision. Quality and features vs price is also a nice thing which is why I tried to include basic starting prices on the ones that I described.

Part of the appeal (to me at least) of the higher end t-stats is some of the features that they have. Some have a grounding plug on them (third prong below the two main ones, I know various countries use different style plugs so this could be a US-only thing) a safety kill switch, a night time drop feature (I'm pretty sure my home-made ones are the cheapest that offer that option :D), warning buzzers, etc. While the cheaper units often function properly, the higher end units often come with a better warranty or at the very least, a better reputation for not breaking or wearing out.

[red ink]

No worries Kyle,

Well I might add a thermostat then into the pile IMIT Ta3 analougue wall mounted thermostat (there should be an equivalent on your side of the pond).

Works on measuring air temps with gas filled bellows all analouge no electrical parts (though you will need to wire them or by a qualified electrician). They have been a staple in the Australian herptoculture for as long as I can remember and 90% of us use them.

They are basically the thermostats you see on old houses mounted on the walls controlling your heating.

[millertime89]

I gotcha, most hardware and home improvement stores have those over here, not nearly as nice looking though. I would have to buy one to figure out how to wire it up though. Price is hard to beat at under $15 US.

for anyone who cares.
IMIT TA3 Thermostat - Aussie Pythons & Snakes (http://www.aussiepythons.com/forum/general-reptile-discussion-42/imit-ta3-thermostat-162983/)

[red ink]

I gotcha, most hardware and home improvement stores have those over here, not nearly as nice looking though. I would have to buy one to figure out how to wire it up though. Price is hard to beat at under $15 US.

for anyone who cares.
IMIT TA3 Thermostat - Aussie Pythons & Snakes (http://www.aussiepythons.com/forum/general-reptile-discussion-42/imit-ta3-thermostat-162983/)


Yeah their not the best looking of things but they'll pass for what they are and the price. you can easily hide them by just placing some fake plants in front...

Here's one in my JCP enclosure

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn214/Red-Ink-Buldogs/Greyham/55b1b53c.jpg

Behind the perch and fake vines

You can see them in the back walls of this enclosure

http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn214/Red-Ink-Buldogs/20dc8732.jpg

[knox]

I am a bit surprised that the temperature in peoples' homes fluctuates so drastically. I am in an apartment and never get more than a 5 degree fluctuation in my living room where my snakes are (the sunny side of the bldg), and no more than 10 degrees in my bedroom opposite the sunshine.

I would feel perfectly safe using a rheostat for my rack. 5 degrees is nothing to a snake.

Now, I DO use a Herpstat proportional thermostat. But if I didn't have the money to purchase that, a rheostat and $15 temperature gun is all i would really need. A bit more work, checking the temps every day, but not too much.

[knox]

Here's more fodder for the debate.

I just took some measurements of my Flexwatt. It is a single run, snaking throughout my Animal Plastic rack. The probe is on the middle shelf. Controlled by a Herpstat Thermostat set at 89 degrees F.

Top Shelf - 84 degrees
Second Shelf - 103 degrees
Spot by probe on middle shelf - 88.6 degrees
Fourth Shelf - 102 degrees

AND... These temperatures vary depending on WHERE I point the temperature gun along each shelf.

There are no exact temperature controls on Flexwatt, no matter what device you use. Forget 10 degree temperature fluctuations, I have spots along the run of Flexwatt that vary about 20 degrees. And I have 10 degree fluctuations within a foot on one shelf.

This has always been the case with Flexwatt in my experience. Depending on where I take the temperature, I never get consistent temperatures.

[millertime89]

I am a bit surprised that the temperature in peoples' homes fluctuates so drastically. I am in an apartment and never get more than a 5 degree fluctuation in my living room where my snakes are (the sunny side of the bldg), and no more than 10 degrees in my bedroom opposite the sunshine.

I would feel perfectly safe using a rheostat for my rack. 5 degrees is nothing to a snake.

Now, I DO use a Herpstat proportional thermostat. But if I didn't have the money to purchase that, a rheostat and $15 temperature gun is all i would really need. A bit more work, checking the temps every day, but not too much.

the building that I'm in is older than I am, probably 30 years old at least, single pain windows on the south side. My room gets loads of sun during the short day, but the temps drop noticeably when the sun goes down.

[Norm66]

I'm actually having trouble with my flexwatt heating evenly. I'm getting 5 degrees higher on my 2nd and 3rd shelf versus the 1st, 3rd and 5th. I'm actually considering pulling up the two strips of 3" I bought and buying the 11" wide. I had almost gone that way originally but I thought this would be more flexible for summertime. It won't be wasted though since I'll be able to use it elsewhere down the line.

Plus even with towels covering the front of the rack I have the thermostat set at 108 Deg. F to maintain around 90 F hot sides in the tubs. Still, like Red Ink says I think the animals are fine as long as there's a gradient of some sort and they can self-regulate their temps. I've read where several large breeders don't use heat of any kind in their racks, just heating the room to 82-84F and having no problems at all. It makes sense to me, but all the literature out there says 90 hot side and 80 cool side so that's what I'm trying to accomplish.

Heating fish tanks is a lot easier. ;)

[millertime89]

I'm actually having trouble with my flexwatt heating evenly. I'm getting 5 degrees higher on my 2nd and 3rd shelf versus the 1st, 3rd and 5th. I'm actually considering pulling up the two strips of 3" I bought and buying the 11" wide. I had almost gone that way originally but I thought this would be more flexible for summertime. It won't be wasted though since I'll be able to use it elsewhere down the line.

Plus even with towels covering the front of the rack I have the thermostat set at 108 Deg. F to maintain around 90 F hot sides in the tubs. Still, like Red Ink says I think the animals are fine as long as there's a gradient of some sort and they can self-regulate their temps. I've read where several large breeders don't use heat of any kind in their racks, just heating the room to 82-84F and having no problems at all. It makes sense to me, but all the literature out there says 90 hot side and 80 cool side so that's what I'm trying to accomplish.

Heating fish tanks is a lot easier. ;)

Good to know Norm. The retic breeder near me does it that way, heats the room to 80, he gives basking spots for the bigger ones, but anything much less than 10 feet or so gets 80 almost all the time.

[beardeds4life]

I have had great luck using this with heat bulbs but I imagine it will also work well with heat pads/mats. The only complaint I have is it doesn't have a visual output D: but this can easily be fixed by adding a digital thermometer to the mix.

Zilla 500 Watt Temperature Controller (http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/reptile-supplies/thermometers-thermostats-and-timers/-/zilla-500-watt-temperature-controller/)

[FLAWLS1]

This is a great thread! Thanks for posting this

[spots]

I have had great luck using this with heat bulbs but I imagine it will also work well with heat pads/mats. The only complaint I have is it doesn't have a visual output D: but this can easily be fixed by adding a digital thermometer to the mix.

Zilla 500 Watt Temperature Controller (http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/reptile-supplies/thermometers-thermostats-and-timers/-/zilla-500-watt-temperature-controller/)

Does this item have a heat probe with it? I'm looking for something for my snake racks that I'm about to build.

[beardeds4life]

yes it does the probe is kinda bulky though but would work great for a snake rack if you duck taped it to the ceiling thing of a hide then put it a few degrees lower so that it will be the optimal temp. One thing though it is an on off thermostat meaning that instead of reducing power it turns everything off or it is on at full power so there will be quite a bit of turning on and off if you use something like heat tape which gets very hot. If you are using heat tape you might want to consider using this instead. I have never used that though, so I can not tell you anything about it.


Kane heat mat rheostat (http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/reptile-supplies/heat-pads-heat-panels-heat-cable-and-rocks/-/kane-heat-mat-rheostat/)

[millertime89]

well the hydrofarm finally showed up 9 business days after I ordered it... and only one showed up, I ordered two, I tried calling the place I ordered from, but apparently they close at 4 eastern. I called at 4:30 eastern, or 3:30 here. Grr... opinion on thermostat to follow.

[spots]

well the hydrofarm finally showed up 9 business days after I ordered it... and only one showed up, I ordered two, I tried calling the place I ordered from, but apparently they close at 4 eastern. I called at 4:30 eastern, or 3:30 here. Grr... opinion on thermostat to follow.

Where did you get it from and let me know how it is kyle.

[millertime89]

I posted on the first page the place I got them from, but you can find them for the same price from other places, which I would encourage you to do because even though I ordered (and they charged me for) 2, I only received 1, I need to call them here in a bit.

[Flyboy]

Where did you get it from and let me know how it is kyle.

Go here and enter your zipcode...

Hydrofarm - Store Locator (http://www.hydrofarm.com/wheretobuy.php)

it will tell you closest place to purchase the Hydrofarm T-stat.

OR...buy it from Amazon.com for $31 and get free shipping. If you do the "Amazon Prime" free trial membership, you can get 2-day ship for free, or next day ship for 3-bucks!!



I am a Spyder Robotics fan, but I really like the price of that Hydrofarm. I just purchased one...gonna give it a try. I use their timer for my misting system, it works flawlessly and its EASY to program!!