Should I get a Ball Python?

[Pareeeee]

So I've wanting to get a snake.

I've been reading about several snake species and was wondering how hard Ball Pythons are to care for. I have heard varying opinions on them being picky eaters, others just say that they naturally go on long fasts from time to time and it's not really them being 'picky' but actually phases they naturally go through.

I have a few questions:

I will be getting a male (smaller, don't have egg problems) should I decide to get a Ball Python.

2. Approximately how much would it cost to feed a Ball Python (frozen mice/rats, I don't want to breed live ones) and how often.

3. What size tank for a male?

4. I've heard they are very docile and like to just 'hang around'. Is this true? What is their general temperament?

5. Any additional information I should know about them??

[youngster]

Feeding once a week (recommended) it should cost about 90 dollars per year. (for an adult)
A male adult should be good in anything from 30g breeder - 55g. Hatchlings do well in 10g.
They're pretty lazy :P Docile but they don't like to move around much.
I personally like corn snakes for a first snake more. But it's mostly the same husbandry other than BPs need humidity whie corns don't really.
Also look at several different caresheets.
Ball Python (Python regius) Caresheet (http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?127203-Ball-Python-(Python-regius)-Caresheet)
Ball Python Care Sheet (http://exoticpets.about.com/cs/pythons/a/ballpythons_2.htm)
Ball Python - Royal Python Information Sheet (http://www.a1pythons.com/ball.html)

[Lankyrob]

Whilat you cant say that every bp will be lazy and docile and a picky eater they are characteristics that are associated with the species.

As a first snake i personally would recommend a corn snake as they are easier to look after, moe forgiving to enviroment errors, less likely to have feeding issues.

[infernalis]

Honestly about any colubrid is more forgiving as a first snake.

Corns, Milks, Rats, Garters and kings are all super easy to care for, highly active, and always willing to eat. (as a general rule with rare exceptions)

[Pareeeee]

Thanks everyone for the advice. My problem is that I really don't want a highly active snake. That's not really appealing to me :/

The more I read about Corns and Milks the less interested I became - I want a snake that I can actually hold without doing hand over hand constantly...not sure what to do now.

[Lankyrob]

My bp goes hand over hand when he is out, all my snakes do, corns are more active in their viv than bp's tho

[alessia55]

Though colubrids are typically what people recommend as a first snake... I have a different story, and it's strictly about personal opinion. My first snake was a corn snake; I had her since she was a hatchling. Though she was a bit nippy as a baby, and I was told that was normal, she never outgrew it no matter how much I handled her. Regardless, I've also heard that mine was an exception; that most corn snakes are totally docile and absolutely a great starter snake.
Now, ball pythons! I'm biased, since I have two. And I absolutely love them. I find that they're reasonably easy to take care of as a "beginners" snake. To answer your questions: I have one "picky" eater that will only eat live prey, and my other one eats f/t no problem. Just make sure that the breeder you get yours from is already feeding your snake f/t before you get him. Both my snakes are male because they stay a little smaller than females. Are they docile and like to "hang out"? My adult LOVES it. He usually sits on my lap while I do my homework every night, or on my bed next to me. He doesn't go anywhere, really. But as babies they can be a bit more active. My little one (who's only about 5 wks old) is much more active and likes to explore. Remember that although there is an average temperament for a species, every snake is individual ad has his own personality. My baby male is in a smaller container, but as an adult my older male is in a 40gal and very comfortable. Sometimes humidity can be an issue with ball pythons, but I solved that by getting "reptibark" substrate and misting the cage a bit. Good luck! Owning a snake is very exciting :) Feel free to keep asking questions!

[infernalis]

Thanks everyone for the advice. My problem is that I really don't want a highly active snake. That's not really appealing to me :/

The more I read about Corns and Milks the less interested I became - I want a snake that I can actually hold without doing hand over hand constantly...not sure what to do now.

Then you would hate most of my snakes. ;)

I mostly keep the kind that flip out when you touch them. Snakes that spaz out on human contact tend to make the brightest most interesting display animals.

Now if you want a snake that will sit on your lap, I'd say get a ball python.

Look into your local animal shelters, search online, check Craig's list, by adopting an unwanted snake you will be giving a second chance to an animal that most likely some kid bought on a whim.

BP are not THAT hard to care for.

[acs102]

I've had my ball for about 10 months and he has never refused a meal. He's(I call him a "he", I really have no idea what gender he is) also very docile. Kind of just goes with the flow, he's my little buddy. He'll curl up right next to me while I'm doing homework or doing something on the computer, or if I'm wearing a hoodie he'll curl up in the hood and snuggle up to the back of my neck.

As long as you do your research and get your husbandry right, I'd say it would be a decent first snake. However, my opinions are based on the one ball I've ever had....so...yeah.

[CK SandBoas]

As an owner of both a Ball Python and a Grey Banded King, i will definitely say the King is definitely easier, in regards to feeding. I do not have to worry about him refusing a meal at all, though i will admit he is a pooping machine, making his deposits almost every other day, while my Ball Python can go between 3-5 feedings before he poops, usually right after he sheds.

I absolutely love my Ball Python, i compare him to a lap dog sometimes, he'll just sit in my lap quietly while i'm watching tv, or on the computer. or he'll wrap around my wrist, and just hang out that way. If you plan on getting a baby Ball, make sure it's already eating F/T, as young ones can be difficult to switch over.

Good luck with whatever you end up getting!:)

[Gungirl]

Get what you like the most... Just do your research and have its viv set up BEFORE you get the snake. You will only be happy getting the kind you want not what we feel is right for you. If you want a ball do your research and go for it.

[blindfireak40]

Thanks everyone for the advice. My problem is that I really don't want a highly active snake. That's not really appealing to me :/

The more I read about Corns and Milks the less interested I became - I want a snake that I can actually hold without doing hand over hand constantly...not sure what to do now.

Vermicelli is definitely an exception to that. He's very active, but seems to be more interested in climbing amongst my fingers and crawling up my arms towards my body than in "escaping". He likes exploring as much as any other snake, and will try to get away when I remove him from the viv, but once he's out he's very chilled out and laid back.

I'm not sure if that's just him, but I'm fairly certain you could find another one like him somewhere out there :)

[millertime89]

it all depends on what you're looking for. my first snake is a brazilian rainbow boa, and as long as you're willing to do what it takes to take care of them, and learn what they need, ANY snake can be a first snake. That said, anything with high humidity requirements probably isn't the best beginner.

[Gungirl]

it all depends on what you're looking for. my first snake is a brazilian rainbow boa, and as long as you're willing to do what it takes to take care of them, and learn what they need, ANY snake can be a first snake. That said, anything with high humidity requirements probably isn't the best beginner.


If they are willing to do the research and set up the viv well before they get the snake it should be fine.. even a high humidity snake. I got a GTP about 6 weeks after I got my first snake. He is growing like a weed and no issues eating or shedding. Its all in how much you are willing to do for your pet.

[youngster]

Yeah my little guy is adventurous but not extremely so that I have to give hi my undivided attention. I was actually just talking on the phone and handling him with one hand.

[Snakefood]

Thanks everyone for the advice. My problem is that I really don't want a highly active snake. That's not really appealing to me :/

The more I read about Corns and Milks the less interested I became - I want a snake that I can actually hold without doing hand over hand constantly...not sure what to do now.

Only my Hatchling corn is hard to handle! My adult male starts out active, then settles down for the most part. My adult female may be somewhat active to begin with, but once she finds where she is comfortable, she stays until evicted, and even then tries valiantly to hang on with her tail!

An adult corn may be to your liking, if you handle them before buying you could end up with a calm, docile snake! The BP's I have held "ball up" and just sit in your hand, whereas my adult corns coil around my arm and hold on to me! which I think is kinda cool!

[millertime89]

If they are willing to do the research and set up the viv well before they get the snake it should be fine.. even a high humidity snake. I got a GTP about 6 weeks after I got my first snake. He is growing like a weed and no issues eating or shedding. Its all in how much you are willing to do for your pet.

bingo, do your research, and do as much as you can for your pet, and you can get any you want (although I would stay away from venomous or giants for obvious reasons as a starter)

[McSlo2.0]

bingo, do your research, and do as much as you can for your pet, and you can get any you want (although I would stay away from venomous or giants for obvious reasons as a starter)

pfft anyone can handle taking on a 17 foot green anaconda, experience is over rated :)

[SkYyaMe1623]

Honestly about any colubrid is more forgiving as a first snake.

Corns, Milks, Rats, Garters and kings are all super easy to care for, highly active, and always willing to eat. (as a general rule with rare exceptions)
This.

It does not take much experience with snakes to have a colubrid eat for you and shed well - the essentials of keeping a snake.

But above all I'd advise people to just get what they like to be honest. (as long as they're passionate enough about the species to put all the effort they can into making it comfortable)

[Pareeeee]

Wow thanks for all the answers. Very helpful. I'm still on the fence on this one. I have seen people handle Corns - they just seem to move wayy too fast for me, lol. I'm leaning towards the slower moving snakes myself, but that could still change.

I already have a pet that's always 'on the go'. I love my little Rodney (Crested Gecko) but he just has to go go go! I want a pet that will just hang around and sit on my lap. I realize that the young-uns will be hyper, that's just the way it is with any species, including humans! lol.

If I do get a BP I would probably use that repti-bark stuff or repti-earth because it holds a LOT of moisture, but somehow the mold doesn't like to grow in it. It's what I use in Rodney's tank and it keeps his humidity up nicely.

I was also interested in the "Spotted Python" but I can't seem to find them where I live. (If I did they would probably be wicked expensive)

[ZARADOZIA]

I love my Sasha (BP). She is very low key and laid back. She is quite content to hang around my neck or in my hair and just chill. She does have moments when she is pure energy and hyper, but not often.

From when I first got her:
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i25/Vandacross/Just%20Sasha/0712001842.jpghttp://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i25/Vandacross/Just%20Sasha/0713001515.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i25/Vandacross/Just%20Sasha/0713001516.jpg

Her favorite place is in my hair. I didn't do this, she did this on her own and still does it:

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i25/Vandacross/Just%20Sasha/0716002046.jpghttp://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i25/Vandacross/Just%20Sasha/0716002048.jpg

[youngster]

they just seem to move wayy too fast for me

If this is your main concern I think you should find an expo near you and go. You can handle a bunch of snakes until you find your perfect one. You could find a lazy corn easy :P Just make sure you buy from a reputable breeder because some of the bigger ones don't feed their animals before an expo to make them seem chill and docile. When really they're just tired.

[Snakefood]

And THIRSTY!! I don't think they are provided much water at these shows. My boy had no water in his display case, and when I put him in his viv when we got home, his plunged his head into the water dish and drank and drank and drank, it was crazy how thirsty he was!

[unknownclown]

at the moment we have 4 ball pythons, 3 boas, 3 corns, 2 milk snakes, 3 rat snakes, a sand boa and 3 blood pythons... basically a bit of everything.
the corns they are a bit hyper when you take them out but settle down a bit in about 5 minutes give or take they have great personalities and come in some cool colors. They do seem to like to escape quite often and arent that active in thier tank.
Our ball pythons which I have a soft spot for, I love how cute thier faces are! They are very docile from start to finnish. I can trust our daughter to hold without them getting a quick burst of energy and escaping. Mine love to climb even though they are fulll grown and are much more active than my boas. If you decide on a bp start it right off on rat pinks that way they dont get stuck on mice. I had one that would only take mice and I would have to feed it a ton to keep it at a decent healthy weight which was a pain in the butt and took alot of time compared to feeding just 1 rat.
I think Youngster had the best advice go to an expo and handle a bunch of different types before you make your decission

[ZARADOZIA]

If you decide on a bp start it right off on rat pinks that way they dont get stuck on mice. I had one that would only take mice and I would have to feed it a ton to keep it at a decent healthy weight which was a pain in the butt and took alot of time compared to feeding just 1 rat.

I think Youngster had the best advice go to an expo and handle a bunch of different types before you make your decission

Both excellent suggestions!! Sasha is stuck on mice but my current load is almost gone and time to buy more so I am preparing to try rats again. OY

[Snakefood]

when I get my BP, rat pinks and up, all the way!! I've heard how tough they are to switch, so why even start with mice when they're big enough for rat pinks right out of the egg??

[ZARADOZIA]

when I get my BP, rat pinks and up, all the way!! I've heard how tough they are to switch, so why even start with mice when they're big enough for rat pinks right out of the egg??

I completely agree and I have no idea. The kid I got Sasha from fed her 1 small mouse a month. Or maybe 2...can't remember right now. Anyhow, Sasha was almost 2 feet when I got her and severely under weight (IMO) for being 2 yrs old. I have no idea what she weighs right now, but she was about 4'4" about 2 months ago and her girth is 6.5 inch (measured today).

Now that she is used to everything and has a set schedule, I feel comfortable trying rats. Say a prayer!!

[Snakefood]

we'll be rooting for you!!! Luckily for me, both the breeders I am considering getting my BP from start them off on rat pinks, so I shouldn't have any problems, especially since I have my own 1:10 rat colony, so will be able to keep up on whatever size they need, regardless of commercial availability!!

[Pareeeee]

Thanks again. Looked up reptile expos, they are only in the spring and rather far away from where I live :/

I really am drawn to the Ball Pythons, my thing now is trying to price out how much they eat and cost monthly. I've been looking at mouse/rat dealers in Ontario (not gonna get from pet stores, EXPENSIVE...and too far away.) I want to be sure I can afford everything before I get a snake.

[Pareeeee]

Question! African Soft Furred Rats - are they good for Ball Pythons??? (I found a place to get them REALLY cheap)

[Snakefood]

I have heard that there are fine, but that if you ever try to switch OFF ASF's, you'll have massive troubles doing so.

[Pareeeee]

hmm okay thanks, maybe be cheaper in the long run just to get regular rats then!!!

[Snakefood]

if you have a mud-room or back shed. get a breeding pair or trio. then you have no probs, prey-wise and it's UBER CHEAP

[Pareeeee]

if you have a mud-room or back shed. get a breeding pair or trio. then you have no probs, prey-wise and it's UBER CHEAP

I live in an apartment and just have room to add a snake enclosure. Rats are pretty stinky critters, I know, I used to keep em as pets. Another reason I wouldn't raise live rats for food. I couldn't kill them :( I want someone else to do the dirty work of dispatching them for me, lol!

PS: I found a breeder that's selling out their Normal Ball Pythons for $30! I asked them what they feed and they said frozen food.

[Snakefood]

That's an awsome price! whereabouts are you. One of my customers breeds Normal BP's and has a clutch hatching about now, i could probably get you a good deal on a baby.

[Steve'O]

I would say as long as you do your research, have the money to provide the proper enclosure, and time to spend working with your pet, then get the animal that most attracts you. Ball pythons in my experience are very easy animals to keep. I would say easier than most pets, including dogs, hamsters, and fish. I keep many species and don't think you should have much problems keeping a ball python as a first snake. The great thing is they come in so many color paterns. They are not super active, but mine enjoy getting out and like to move around, but are not going to shoot across the room where you can't catch them. They attain a nice size, enough to have some weight in the hand, but not so much as to overwhelm. Just keep reading the forums and talk to other owners. If you have a reptile show in your area, try to attend one to see all the different animals and talk with the breeders and other owners. We have a reptile show here in KC every two months. Remember to look at your budget and remember that the enclosure and supplies can cost as much or more than the animal (if it is a normal) at first. Good Luck!

[Steve'O]

Also, I recommend starting with rats and sticking with rats. It is a pain sometimes to get an animal to switch to rats and mice are not as nutritious and don't get big enough for a full grown BP. I feed all mine FT (frozen thawed) off tongs. You can mail order them in bulk and keep them in the freezer. Don't want a two dollar feeder chewing on your expensive pet snake. Never, never, never leave a live rodent in unsupervised with your snake. If the snake is not ready to eat, even a small mouse can do serious damage...

[Pareeeee]

Don't worry about the live rodent thing, as I said before I have no interest in breeding or feeding live rodents. I have seen HORRIFIC photos of what a live rat can do to a snake...made me cringe...

The setup cost will be minimal - all I need is a tank lid (which I may build, I want something strong that will also be good for keeping humidity in), UTH and bedding. I've got a tank in storage (used to house my old Bearded Dragon, RIP...), hides, fake plants...

I'm thinking of either painting the sides of the tank or taping something around it so the snake feels safer. I've heard having glass all the way around can make them insecure. I want him to be as comfortable as possible!

Again, thanks for all the helpful posts, people!!

[Pareeeee]

That's an awsome price! whereabouts are you. One of my customers breeds Normal BP's and has a clutch hatching about now, i could probably get you a good deal on a baby.

I'm located in Ontario...other side of the country, lol!

[Snakefood]

Yeah, it was worth asking.

As for the privacy, I went and got some of those stamps from the dollar store (all different leaves) and a few different colors of glass paint (for mine, browns, burgundy's and greens) and I am in the process of overlapping the stamps (outside of glass) in different colors for different layers until the 3 sides are solid leaf print. I think it's going to look really natural and classy!

[ZARADOZIA]

Don't worry about the live rodent thing, as I said before I have no interest in breeding or feeding live rodents. I have seen HORRIFIC photos of what a live rat can do to a snake...made me cringe...

The setup cost will be minimal - all I need is a tank lid (which I may build, I want something strong that will also be good for keeping humidity in), UTH and bedding. I've got a tank in storage (used to house my old Bearded Dragon, RIP...), hides, fake plants...

I'm thinking of either painting the sides of the tank or taping something around it so the snake feels safer. I've heard having glass all the way around can make them insecure. I want him to be as comfortable as possible!

Again, thanks for all the helpful posts, people!!

For Sasha's viv walls, I went to the Dollar Store and purchased:
--Griprite liners. They are cabinet liners come in 1 foot wide by 5 feet long packages.
--Lots of non-toxic glue (like Elmers or Roseart)
--Moss from the arts n crafts area.
--Plastic tarp
--Small roller brush & paint pan set
--Velcro that has a sticky/tape side

This is messy, but inexpensive. I think I spent 20-25.00 total for everything.

Lay plastic tarp out. I used my table since it is 6feet by 3 feet.
Lay out liners so they are side by side but not touching.
Pour glue into paint pan, use roller brush in glue as if it were paint.
"Paint" the glue onto the first liner, making sure all area is covered and the layer is thick.
Let sit for about 2 minutes so the top layer of glue becomes slightly tacky.
Cover the liner with moss, lay it on HEAVY and press down hard. Allow to dry for 24-48 hours.
Repeat this process for enough liners to cover the walls of the tank.
After the glue is DRY, pick up the liner and gently shake loose any excess moss.
Flip liner on back, afix the velcro to the top to corners and then hang it inside on the tank wall.

(I enjoy a good art project)

[Pareeeee]

LOL similar to what I did with my Crested Gecko tank - I carved a foam rectangle to make it look bumpy and "natural", got some silicone caulking and spread it over the surface, then I pressed repti-bark all over it. Cut a hole in to fit a small plant pot, potted an orchid on the side. It looks kind of like the bark of a tree with little plants and vines hanging off it. I should take a pic and post it at some point. I was all proud of myself when it actually worked, ha!

I love DIY! (it's usually cheaper too)

[Pareeeee]

SPEAKING of DIY...can you DIY a lid for a snake tank that would be 'inescapable'?? I was thinking wire mesh and wood frame...I don't have a lid for the tank that I have in storage and was just wondering...

[ZARADOZIA]

SPEAKING of DIY...can you DIY a lid for a snake tank that would be 'inescapable'?? I was thinking wire mesh and wood frame...I don't have a lid for the tank that I have in storage and was just wondering...

Yes. That's what we did for Sasha's.
Here is the thread with pics of Sasha's viv. The lid and stand are custom built. http://www.ssnakess.com/forums/python-regius/88429-herpstat-uth-just-arrived-how-set-up.html#post635228

This is a pic of the under-side of the lid my husband built. The lid slip over the glass viv. If you look in the corner you will see small blocks of wood, I had to place them there because Sasha kept wedging hersel in the gap and scraping her back. Now she can't get in there.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i25/Vandacross/Sasha%20Viv/100_1673.jpg

[Snakefood]

ya hubby custom made one of the enclosure lids out of wood and fine wire mesh. He put "twist locks" on it to lock it tight. I personally think it looks nicer and works better than the store bought locking lid.

[Pareeeee]

Another question - on average what size rats will an adult male ball python need to eat? (I know food should be no bigger than the widest part of the snake's body, but what is that usually??)

Still trying to find a rodent supplier that won't gouge me with their prices...very expensive around here!

[youngster]

Med rats maybe? I'm not completely sure depends on the gender

[redsided]

Wow thanks for all the answers. Very helpful. I'm still on the fence on this one. I have seen people handle Corns - they just seem to move wayy too fast for me, lol. I'm leaning towards the slower moving snakes myself, but that could still change.

Whoa whoa whoa, corn snakes are NOT that fast compared to pretty much everything but pythons/boas... Just hold a garter snake and you'll think they're SLUGGISH.

[Lankyrob]

Another question - on average what size rats will an adult male ball python need to eat? (I know food should be no bigger than the widest part of the snake's body, but what is that usually??)

Still trying to find a rodent supplier that won't gouge me with their prices...very expensive around here!

A lot of snakes take prey LARGER than their own body (hence why people say about food leaving a "lump") my BP takes prey twice the size of its widest part.