Homemade programmable thermostat!

[millertime89]

First off, this is tampering with a product. I do not recommend it for anybody that has never done any electrical work and I take no responsibility if in doing this you cause an electrical fire or ruin your product or kill your animal. In following these instructions you assume all risk and responsibility and I can be not held liable. If you are not confident I will do this for a cost. 50 dollars plus the cost of shipping. This covers my time and cost. This will include a sensor about 6 ft from the unit. Add 1 dollar for every foot afterwards. I AM WILLING TO SHIP TO CANADA. If you want me to do it, I will give you a 90 day warranty that covers all of my wiring modifications, but if you tamper it in any way that warranty will be voided.
I cannot claim credit for this, as I found it online, however I have slightly changed the instructions to simplify things a bit. Also the start up cost for me was minimal as I only had to purchase the thermostat and wire. I had all the tools already as well as the experience of doing wiring work on my car. This is not difficult, but it does require a bit of wiring knowledge, more than just plugging it into an outlet.
Now on to the instructions!
tools needed:
sharpie
crimping/striping tool
needle nose pliers
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0743.sized.jpg
small computer screwdriver set(or a very small Phillips head screwdriver)
supplies needed:
.110" crimp terminal connectors, male and female
I could not find them locally so I ordered from here.
Vinyl Insulated Push-ons (http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d50.html)
OR
18-22 gauge regular crimp connectors, can be found at harbor freight, auto parts stores, radioshack, etc. (case can be seen in above picture)
I had to use the regular crimp connectors since I was unable to find the push-on terminals locally.
dual 18 gauge speaker wire
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0726.sized.jpg
LUX WIN 100 5-2 programmable outlet thermostat
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0707.sized.jpg


OK!
open the case, remove the small battery pack in the back, and remove the 4 screws. PLACE THEM IN A SAFE PLACE! DO NOT LOSE THEM!
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0708.sized.jpg
mark one wire/connector with sharpie, mark it in a spot that you will not cut (when applicable) as close to the terminal as possible.
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0710.sized.jpg
now disconnect the terminals and remove the on/off switch
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0711.sized.jpg
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0712.sized.jpg
to be continued...

[millertime89]

remove connections
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0713.sized.jpg
undo black clamp
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0714.sized.jpg
comes out at a funky angle, its tough, so be patient
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0716.sized.jpg
you now have the thermocouple all by itself.
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0718.sized.jpg
remove black clip
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0717.sized.jpg
there will be a kink where the clip was, if you are using regular crimp connectors, that's where you want to cut.
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0720.sized.jpg
make sure you mark that one wire above where the crimp connectors will be!
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0717.sized.jpg
More to come!

[millertime89]

for those using the readily available crimp connectors instead of the terminals
Cut!
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0722.sized.jpg
strip! use the 14 gauge strip point
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0724.sized.jpg
should look like this once finished. I twist the ends to keep them from fraying apart. You can see the screwdriver set here as well as the place I put the screws, works well.
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0725.sized.jpg
cut the length of wire you want your sensor to be placed, "y" the ends like such
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0727.sized.jpg
yay wiring connectors from harbor freight
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0728.sized.jpg
you need 4 of these guys
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0729.sized.jpg
crimp em on, you only need ONE good crimp. I give it a gentle but firm tug to make sure they are crimped well and won't come off. This is where using the terminals comes in handy. If you screw up the crimp and have to cut it back and try again, you'll quickly run out of room on the thermocouple. Not sure what to tell you there. You might have to remove all material and solder in new wires, I'm avoiding that if possible.
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0730.sized.jpg
crimp the sharpied wires to the same wire on both ends, I believe this isn't 100% necessary, however I would encourage it. Like most thermo sensors I believe the current can go either way, but we didn't go through all this work just to take risks!
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0731.sized.jpg

Almost done!

[millertime89]

my speaker wire has one bronze cover and one bronze with white stripe, I used the white strip with the wire on the thermocouple that I marked with sharpie.
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0733.sized.jpg
remove the piece of fabric separating the two batteries
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0734.sized.jpg
reconnect the terminals
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0735.sized.jpg
remove the sticker and replace the small battery pack, you're up and running now!
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0736.sized.jpg
plug it into the wall, and use a temp extreme to make sure everything is working. The Ice box in my freezer works well
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0737.sized.jpg
If everything is working right, replace the on/off switch, put the screws back in, and replace that black clip back in, you'll need the pliers to do that again.
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0740.sized.jpg
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0741.sized.jpg
obviously the clip won't be at the same spot on the wire, but that's ok, you've still got plenty of wire to work with.
tape up the end so there's zero chance the animal will electrocute itself. Some good black electric tape works perfect, tape up the end however far is necessary. I do 12 inches as that's the depth of my viv.
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0742.sized.jpg

And you're done!

[marvelfreak]

Can you go over step 3 and 7 again i think i missed something. lol Just kidding. Looks real good and easy to do. Thanks for sharing.

[millertime89]

no problem, like I said if you've got basic wiring knowledge its pretty straight forward, with taking pictures it took me about 45 minutes. Its a half hour job without doing that more than likely.

[shaunyboy]

great thread mate

well explained and very proffesional work you did there

cheers shaun

[millertime89]

I would also like to add that heat shrink is another option you could explore, however I would leave it sit out if you go that route for 24 hours to make sure there are no chemicals or fumes that could possibly poison your pet.

Thanks Shaun, you guys have something like this over there? Its great having a top-notch thermostat for my snake for less than half of what some of the retail ones sold specifically for this purpose go for.

[shaunyboy]

I would also like to add that heat shrink is another option you could explore, however I would leave it sit out if you go that route for 24 hours to make sure there are no chemicals or fumes that could possibly poison your pet.

Thanks Shaun, you guys have something like this over there? Its great having a top-notch thermostat for my snake for less than half of what some of the retail ones sold specifically for this purpose go for.

i have never seen anything like that over here

terry bladeblaster may have though as he's been around a bit longer than i have (not calling you old terry mate :yes: )

cheers shaun

[millertime89]

I just picked mine up at the local Menards (hardware store), might be worth a look if you stop in or go by one.

[presspirate]

Thanks for this post! I had seen these instructions before and forgotten to book mark them and have since looked all over. Very good, I can't wait to try it out!

[millertime89]

No problem, I'm gonna make one using the quick connect terminals and I'll make a post about that too once they show up. Mebbe sticky?
Also if anyone has any ideas on how to use this to control multiple vivs I'm all ears. If someone can tell me what to do as far as wiring/soldering, I'll do the work.

[ladyjustice33]

Will this work like the Herpstat in that you set it to a certain temp and it will turn the heat tape temp up or down as needed? Also, do you know how many watts of heat tape it can handle?

[spots]

I would also like to add that heat shrink is another option you could explore, however I would leave it sit out if you go that route for 24 hours to make sure there are no chemicals or fumes that could possibly poison your pet.

Thanks Shaun, you guys have something like this over there? Its great having a top-notch thermostat for my snake for less than half of what some of the retail ones sold specifically for this purpose go for.

I was going to suggest heat shrink :D lol
Awesome job, I was hoping to find something like this!

[infernalis]

My personal preference when doing these kinds of projects is to solder the wires together and use shrink tubing over the joints.

Thank you for posting this step by step, it's great that you took the time to do it.

[millertime89]

Will this work like the Herpstat in that you set it to a certain temp and it will turn the heat tape temp up or down as needed? Also, do you know how many watts of heat tape it can handle?

yes. not sure but I can check. Its original intent was a window a/c unit or spaceheater, so I'm assuming quite a bit, but I'll check when I get home and see if the instructions say.

I was going to suggest heat shrink :D lol
Awesome job, I was hoping to find something like this!

my original plan was to use heat shrink, however I was out of butane for my heat shrink torch when I did the original write up.

My personal preference when doing these kinds of projects is to solder the wires together and use shrink tubing over the joints.

Thank you for posting this step by step, it's great that you took the time to do it.

Thanks Wayne, I would agree solder is the way to go, however I find that the quick connectors are simplest for beginners. I also need to pick up some more solder next time I'm getting supplies.

I've been meaning to post these pictures, but I went through and did the quick connect connections on one I made for a member here that contacted me via the sSnakeSs facebook page. I'm not sure of his screenname.

found out the entire assembly comes apart with a gentle tug (or continued dis-assembly and reassembly :D) Makes working with it easier.
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0759.sized.jpg

bam, totally apart
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0760.sized.jpg

these are the connectors I was working with, they female ends are a little (and by that a mean REALLY) snug fitting, they took some work.
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0761.sized.jpg

crimp the ends, and wrap in tape, I use half width first then full width to make sure its completely sealed.
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0762.sized.jpg

connect them like thus
http://www.1320video.com/img/album337/IMG_0763.sized.jpg

wrap in tape or heat shrink and put it all back together and you're done!
This was much easier and more efficient than all the cutting and crimping I had to do previously, plus it leaves all of the wire for the thermocouple intact. I'm down to this taking me about 20 minutes.

[infernalis]

Nice...

Since I work in the copier and printer industry, I have ready access to 5 volt solid state puck relays that are used to connect CPU signals to motors and lamps.

They work perfectly to connect digital thermostats to loads up to 1200 watts.

[millertime89]

wow... That's some bonkers power output. I'm not an electrical genius by any stretch of the imagination, I just know what to wire and how to wire it. As promised, here's the electrical ratings on the instructions if anyone wants to translate for the rest of us (I'm used to dealing with car electronics so its a bit different)
ELECTRICAL RATINGS
120V/60Hz
Maximum load is 15 Amps at 120 Volts
Power Consumption 2 W (maximum)
Plug and Receptacle NEMA 5-15R (normal household 15 Amp receptacle)

Make sense to you guys?

[infernalis]

The thermostat uses 2 watts (half the power of one single Christmas tree light) and is capable of switching roughly a 1000 watt load, more than any single reptile cage including Chompers new room would ever need.

The 120/60hz means it's made for use in the USA & Canada, but would not work in the UK or any othe European country.

The Nema code explained...

http://www.reptard.info/Paddock/plug.gif

However, I bet a very similar thermostat could be purchased through IKEA or TESCO overseas.

[millertime89]

Thanks Wayne, so how many devices do you think I could plug into this with a power bar and not overload it? provided temps remained consistent could I potentially use one of these to control the temps in 3 or 4 vivs? I was originally going to use one for each, but that could get expensive. If I were to use one to power heating elements in several that would drastically cut costs.

[infernalis]

Simply add up the rated wattage of each device, and don't go over 1000 you should be fine.

However what if one heater goes nuts and the probe is in another cage?

[millertime89]

yeah, that's always my concern, or one fails, or the temp in one part of the room changes that specific tank's requirements. I've got some time before I start experimenting with the variables.

[spots]

Hey Kyle,
where do you get these thermostats from. I've looked at every DIY store here in Calgary and none of them have seen or carry these :(
Do you know any where online that sells these? I need to make 2

[KORBIN5895]

I don't think there would be anyway to add multiple probes to one unit. I recommend crimping the butt splice to your extra wire first as opposed to your probe wires. That way if you mess up you don't have to try to remove it from the probe end. Also as long as your original solder studs aren't polarized ( polarized meaning the studs are different sizes so the wires only attach a certain way) you shouldn't get too worked up if you forget to mark the wires.

Looks awesome I may try it. I may also try to make some and sell them to my friends that have snakes.

[millertime89]

Hey Kyle,
where do you get these thermostats from. I've looked at every DIY store here in Calgary and none of them have seen or carry these :(
Do you know any where online that sells these? I need to make 2

I've found them on amazon and a few other places.
Amazon.com: Lux WIN100 Heating & Cooling Programmable Outlet Thermostat: Home Improvement (http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8)

I don't think there would be anyway to add multiple probes to one unit. I recommend crimping the butt splice to your extra wire first as opposed to your probe wires. That way if you mess up you don't have to try to remove it from the probe end. Also as long as your original solder studs aren't polarized ( polarized meaning the studs are different sizes so the wires only attach a certain way) you shouldn't get too worked up if you forget to mark the wires.

Looks awesome I may try it. I may also try to make some and sell them to my friends that have snakes.

I've made some slight revisions as I've made more of these, I've now made 5 of them and will probably make a 6th and update the pictures with my current method. I'm still not soldering though because I'm lazy and hate soldering, I can never seem to get it right and there really isn't enough extra wire to screw up too many times and keep removing the part I screwed up on.

[KORBIN5895]

The extra wire would be the piece from the studs to the probe. I myself don't see the need to soldier the together. But splices would work just fine especially if you heat shrink them. I think heat shrink is a must.