Setting up 2 new enclosures

[lukelightwalker]

I had to shut down my salt water set ups last night as they both sundenly started having a die off. Fortunately it started with the bristol worms that came as pests in my live rock and I was able to find someone with a large healthy set up to save the fish.

However this leaves me with 2 35 to 40 gallon tanks to turn into reptile habitats. I am going to move my Leopard Gecko into one and see if I can introduce a female or 2. I know that most say dont however the tank is large and the geckos would be rescue animals coming from comunity tanks already.

The other tank is a bow front and just seems perfect for a chamelien community. 2 or 3 small guys my guru tells me.

Just looking for thoughts on tank design and such. Of course they will have one or 2 custom cultured stone hides built by me. See my ad in the classifieds LOL:Wow:

I would like ideas on substrate, vines and climing stuff,foliage cover, lighting . What kind of hot and cold zones should I have.

Of course once I get them built I will post pictures.

[infernalis]

For the Leos, I recommend "cage carpet"

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/images/Categoryimages/normal/p-22691-47061-reptile.jpg

[Sapphyr]

Aaron told my cage carpet(otherwise known as Repticarpet), isn't as good as people say since it harbors bacteria over time. I asked him if washing of the carpet made any difference and he said it wouldn't, so either paper towel or tile are better options.

I don't know about Chammies, but for leos, never ever use any form of sand. This also includes Calcium sand... -especially- calcium sand, since they'll want to eat it for nutrients and then it'll become impacted.

As far as decorations and the like, maybe a hide or two. I personally use a little desert themed cave on one side and a 'rock wall' lounge thing on the other(it's a little rock wall themed structure, hollowed out with 2 shelves inside. I'll often find mine lazing around on the bottom level, sometimes see he's slinking on up to the upper level. It stands about 5 - 6 inches). They don't really need anything elaborate. One hide may need a little moist moss inside, especially during shedding to help get things going. No vines or anything, since they can't climb. And, of course, they'll need a small water dish.

They don't need UVB and temps should be 85 - 90F on one side, preferably a side with a hide. Over all cage temperature should be above 73F.

A note on shedding, don't expect to see a shed from your gecko unless you personally help it and keep the shed(which I don't recommend doing). They eat the shed as it comes off. It's, actually, very nutritional to them. Also, be sure to check things like the toe and tail tips for any remaining shed. If any shed is left, assist them with taking it off. If the shed is left there, as time progresses and continue to grow, the shed left there will eventually cut off circulation to the area it occupies and they'll lose the toe tip(s) or tail tip.

gvZjXIGiM7A

[lukelightwalker]

Thanks for the awesome advise and cool video. Very helpfull.

Aaron told my cage carpet(otherwise known as Repticarpet), isn't as good as people say since it harbors bacteria over time. I asked him if washing of the carpet made any difference and he said it wouldn't, so either paper towel or tile are better options.

I don't know about Chammies, but for leos, never ever use any form of sand. This also includes Calcium sand... -especially- calcium sand, since they'll want to eat it for nutrients and then it'll become impacted.

As far as decorations and the like, maybe a hide or two. I personally use a little desert themed cave on one side and a 'rock wall' lounge thing on the other(it's a little rock wall themed structure, hollowed out with 2 shelves inside. I'll often find mine lazing around on the bottom level, sometimes see he's slinking on up to the upper level. It stands about 5 - 6 inches). They don't really need anything elaborate. One hide may need a little moist moss inside, especially during shedding to help get things going. No vines or anything, since they can't climb. And, of course, they'll need a small water dish.

They don't need UVB and temps should be 85 - 90F on one side, preferably a side with a hide. Over all cage temperature should be above 73F.

A note on shedding, don't expect to see a shed from your gecko unless you personally help it and keep the shed(which I don't recommend doing). They eat the shed as it comes off. It's, actually, very nutritional to them. Also, be sure to check things like the toe and tail tips for any remaining shed. If any shed is left, assist them with taking it off. If the shed is left there, as time progresses and continue to grow, the shed left there will eventually cut off circulation to the area it occupies and they'll lose the toe tip(s) or tail tip.

gvZjXIGiM7A

[lukelightwalker]

Not big on cage carpet as I prefer a more natural look and feel for my habitats and animals. I have gone with bark with a peat, fine coconut layer on top and peat and coconut for the hide side with some moss on the inside of the hide

For the Leos, I recommend "cage carpet"

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/images/Categoryimages/normal/p-22691-47061-reptile.jpg

[Sapphyr]

For the record, that video I put on there? That's tile that imitates the look of sand. Natural and safe! It's also cheap and you can probably get it at any Lowe's.