got my beardie!!

[DeesBalls]

PIcked him/her up tonight, I'll call it a him.... if is smaller then my hand!!!

RIght now its a temp set up with a towl, water dish, log, and a hammock. I have a towl for now for sub state, not sure what to use. They reccomed stuff that expands with water, can't remember the name.

WEll here are pics....

Dexter:

http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy336/DGilliland22/IMAG0569.jpg


http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy336/DGilliland22/IMAG0571.jpg

More to come...

[DeesBalls]

Oh yea, also a uva/uvb + heat light...

[NennaMeerkat]

Good god that guy is small! He will grow uber fast though.

And as for substrate I go with the Alfalfa Meal made by 'Zilla

Zilla - Where Reptiles Rule » Alfalfa Meal | Products | Bedding (http://www.zilla-rules.com/products/bedding/alfalfa-meal.htm)

[DeesBalls]

That what I was going to use.... few more pics...

Over all picture of cage..
http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy336/DGilliland22/IMAG0574.jpg

Chillin on his hammock!
http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy336/DGilliland22/IMAG0573.jpg

[NennaMeerkat]

Oh god he is sooo tiny on that huge hammock XD You might end up having to take it out once he is grown...he could then be to close to the light source. Not to mention to big as well. But he will enjoy it for a long long time.

Oh and don't forget to update your signature to include him <3

[Sapphyr]

Aww, he's adorable. <3 So tiny~

And I second Nenna. If mine tried to get on that hammock.. HA! He'd either fall off or just not fit on it, and you know, falling off things isn't exactly the most healthy thing to do, but yes, he does have a long time to enjoy it while he's young. After all, I see most baby beardies hanging out on some kind of elevated object.

[mld]

What a little cutie! They definitely don't stay small for long, they do most of their growing in the first year.

For substrate, I prefer to use paper towel, this way you can keep an eye on his poop, making sure he is digesting properly.
I am using slate tile right now, it really holds in the heat and is easy to clean. They are little eating a pooping machines!:)
Good luck with your new little beardie.

[DeesBalls]

Oh god he is sooo tiny on that huge hammock XD You might end up having to take it out once he is grown...he could then be to close to the light source. Not to mention to big as well. But he will enjoy it for a long long time.

Oh and don't forget to update your signature to include him <3

I will probably take it out when he gets upgreaded to the 20 gallon, OR i will leave it in, just lower it so if it falls, it wont be high at all ( maybe 1-1.5")

i will update it as i type this thanks!!!

Aww, he's adorable. <3 So tiny~

And I second Nenna. If mine tried to get on that hammock.. HA! He'd either fall off or just not fit on it, and you know, falling off things isn't exactly the most healthy thing to do, but yes, he does have a long time to enjoy it while he's young. After all, I see most baby beardies hanging out on some kind of elevated object.


thanks! i have watched him more tonight, than i have T.V lol



What a little cutie! They definitely don't stay small for long, they do most of their growing in the first year.

For substrate, I prefer to use paper towel, this way you can keep an eye on his poop, making sure he is digesting properly.
I am using slate tile right now, it really holds in the heat and is easy to clean. They are little eating a pooping machines!
Good luck with your new little beardie.

thanks for the kind words, i may use paper towl... not sure yet, i got alf alfa pellets for substrate now... i think i will use that.

for not hes got a black towl.

[mld]

Since he is a hatchling, they will try to eat anything, I don't recommend using any particulate type substrate at such a young age because of the risk of impaction.
Michele

[DeesBalls]

I'm useing paper town for right now due to that... he ate a few lil pieces of lettuce, but other than that, havnt really seen him eat much. I was told to give him mostly crickets. Now often, I hear contradicting info??

Thanks.

[NennaMeerkat]

Since he is a hatchling, they will try to eat anything, I don't recommend using any particulate type substrate at such a young age because of the risk of impaction.
Michele

The GREAT news about Alfalfa is that the pellets, most of them are to big for a baby beardie to eat and if they DO eat it their body can process, break apart, and pass them with no problem. Heck you can feed them normal alfalfa

Taken from this site: UK Bearded Dragons Feeding Guide (http://www.ukbeardeddragons.co.uk/feeding.htm)

"Alfalfa Plant (not sprouts) - Great Staple"

There is a chart on the page if you scroll far enough down on you can see it. Alfalfa is listed as a "Green" plant item which is suggested to feed daily.

[NennaMeerkat]

I'm useing paper town for right now due to that... he ate a few lil pieces of lettuce, but other than that, havnt really seen him eat much. I was told to give him mostly crickets. Now often, I hear contradicting info??

Thanks.

Until he gets a year old I wouldn't feed him anything BUT crickets. And then you feed him as many crickets as he will eat in a 5 min. period daily. So in the beginning it will get annoying buying crickets daily. I always went to a local bait shop, bought about 40-50 crickets, and fed them the food my dragon would eat when he got older. The crickets survived until he ate them all AND they were filled with the nutrients he needed.

[mld]

The GREAT news about Alfalfa is that the pellets, most of them are to big for a baby beardie to eat and if they DO eat it their body can process, break apart, and pass them with no problem. Heck you can feed them normal alfalfa

Taken from this site: UK Bearded Dragons Feeding Guide (http://www.ukbeardeddragons.co.uk/feeding.htm)

"Alfalfa Plant (not sprouts) - Great Staple"

There is a chart on the page if you scroll far enough down on you can see it. Alfalfa is listed as a "Green" plant item which is suggested to feed daily.

When it says Alfalfa Plant it means the green growing plant not the sprouts or the hay!

[NennaMeerkat]

When it says Alfalfa Plant it means the green growing plant not the sprouts or the hay!

Yes that is true BUT the bedding that is alfalfa pellets is ground up really really small thus it just passes through the system harmlessly. It is plant material even if it is processed and what not.

Now as far as tile goes, yes it is good to use however I know that my guy LOVES to dig and dig himself a little place in the bedding as well as just randomly digging in it. He enjoys having bedding and I think it is a better option. Not to mention if a baby dragon doesn't have enough traction their legs can grow weird. I have seen it more than once.

[mld]

Yes that is true BUT the bedding that is alfalfa pellets is ground up really really small thus it just passes through the system harmlessly. It is plant material even if it is processed and what not.

Now as far as tile goes, yes it is good to use however I know that my guy LOVES to dig and dig himself a little place in the bedding as well as just randomly digging in it. He enjoys having bedding and I think it is a better option. Not to mention if a baby dragon doesn't have enough traction their legs can grow weird. I have seen it more than once.

Alfalfa pellets are dry so they will need a lot of water to be able to digest them. A hatchling should also be eating a diet of 80% protein. As for a substrate, It reminds me of going into one of those places where the kids can play in a bunch of ball, I have joined my daughter in them and they are not the easiest to walk on.
Tiles like slate or floor tiles are not slippery, wall tiles may be but that why you wouldn't use them on the floor.

I'm sure we all have our differences, no big deal, just my opinion. Give people difference peoples thoughts!

[NennaMeerkat]

Alfalfa pellets are dry so they will need a lot of water to be able to digest them. A hatchling should also be eating a diet of 80% protein. As for a substrate, It reminds me of going into one of those places where the kids can play in a bunch of ball, I have joined my daughter in them and they are not the easiest to walk on.
Tiles like slate or floor tiles are not slippery, wall tiles may be but that why you wouldn't use them on the floor.

I'm sure we all have our differences, no big deal, just my opinion. Give people difference peoples thoughts!

You would be surprised how stable the pellets are for small beardies. And baby dragons should have an available water source at all times anyways. So being "dry" doesn't really matter anyways. And once they are adults if you give them the veggies they need daily then water won't be an issue then either.

Every reliable place I have found on the net says either something like tile OR alfalfa pellets/corn cob bedding. So it just depends on the owner's preference and what the dragon likes to do. I mean would you deny your dragon the pleasure of digging out a spot to sleep or digging in general?

[mld]

You would be surprised how stable the pellets are for small beardies. And baby dragons should have an available water source at all times anyways. So being "dry" doesn't really matter anyways. And once they are adults if you give them the veggies they need daily then water won't be an issue then either.

Every reliable place I have found on the net says either something like tile OR alfalfa pellets/corn cob bedding. So it just depends on the owner's preference and what the dragon likes to do. I mean would you deny your dragon the pleasure of digging out a spot to sleep or digging in general?

Maybe its just me, but any particulate substrate can harbour bacteria, you can't change it every day! your beaded dragon will have traces of fecal matter or its bacteria/salmonella, crickets can burrow in it also. Dragons like to bask and should get between 10-12 hours every day. Burrowing he will not be getting the uvb while under ground/under pellets. A hatchling will be eating, pooping and basking.

[DeesBalls]

ugh.. im having trouble... im curretnly switching him over to just paper towl, im loading up on crickets tomorrow so i have them for the week...

hes shedding, witch i need to get a humidity hide in there,i have one made, just need to put it in..

he hasnt drank, or ate.. maybe just a lil of each... should i get a UTH and put in on the warm/basking side?? to raise the temps??

should i mist??

a care sheet i got says he needs a bubble stone, bc they wont drink out of still water..??

the temps really dont seem taht high and im getting a lil worried..

thanks again!!

[mld]

ugh.. im having trouble... im curretnly switching him over to just paper towl, im loading up on crickets tomorrow so i have them for the week...

hes shedding, witch i need to get a humidity hide in there,i have one made, just need to put it in..

he hasnt drank, or ate.. maybe just a lil of each... should i get a UTH and put in on the warm/basking side?? to raise the temps??

should i mist??

a care sheet i got says he needs a bubble stone, bc they wont drink out of still water..??

the temps really dont seem taht high and im getting a lil worried..

thanks again!!

I would say no to the UTH, Bearded dragons need heat from above! You will want your basking spot to be between 100-110 degrees, I shoot for 105 degrees for mine. Ambient temperature of 85-95 degrees, and cool side between 75-85 degrees, night time temps shouldn't go below 75 degrees. I keep a shallow bowl of water for mine, he likes to use it to go wade in and usually ends up pooping in it. I have a daily routine that I do, I turn on her lights and heat at 6:30 am, while the lights are warming up I give her a bath and then towel her off, cuddle a bit then place her back in her enclosure and then get her greens ready, feed her feeders. While in the bath I splash the water and drip it on her head and she will open her mouth and stick out her tongue for a drink, also they will get most of their moisture from what they eat, feeder insects and greens/veggies. Lettuce has no nutritional value for them. I don't feed anything after 7pm and turn her lights out at 10pm I do leave the ceramic heat emitter on just in the winter to keep the temperature at about 75-80 at night.
As for shedding you don't need a humid hide, I would just give him a warm bath for about 5-10 minutes at about 85 degrees this will help with shedding and also stimulate his bowels.

[DeesBalls]

I would say no to the UTH, Bearded dragons need heat from above! You will want your basking spot to be between 100-110 degrees, I shoot for 105 degrees for mine. Ambient temperature of 85-95 degrees, and cool side between 75-85 degrees, night time temps shouldn't go below 75 degrees. I keep a shallow bowl of water for mine, he likes to use it to go wade in and usually ends up pooping in it. I have a daily routine that I do, I turn on her lights and heat at 6:30 am, while the lights are warming up I give her a bath and then towel her off, cuddle a bit then place her back in her enclosure and then get her greens ready, feed her feeders. While in the bath I splash the water and drip it on her head and she will open her mouth and stick out her tongue for a drink, also they will get most of their moisture from what they eat, feeder insects and greens/veggies. Lettuce has no nutritional value for them. I don't feed anything after 7pm and turn her lights out at 10pm I do leave the ceramic heat emitter on just in the winter to keep the temperature at about 75-80 at night.
As for shedding you don't need a humid hide, I would just give him a warm bath for about 5-10 minutes at about 85 degrees this will help with shedding and also stimulate his bowels.


sounds good!!, do you recommended that i put him in a 20gal long so i can have a heat light, the UVB/UVA light and a cool side? bc a 10 gal isnt big enough to accommodated all 3. i want a nice gradient ya know? i will give him a lil bath tomorrow b4 school.
should i dust with calcium the crickets?

OR- could my tank go like this....

(top view)
(heat emmiter) (UVA/UVB light) (no light)

the ( ) representing individual dome lights... ?

[mld]

sounds good!!, do you recommended that i put him in a 20gal long so i can have a heat light, the UVB/UVA light and a cool side? bc a 10 gal isnt big enough to accommodated all 3. i want a nice gradient ya know? i will give him a lil bath tomorrow b4 school.
should i dust with calcium the crickets?

A 20 long will do him for a couple of months but with a ten gallon you may have trouble getting the proper heat variant that is needed.
Heat lamp on hot side and UVB.
You may want to invest in a digital thermometer with a probe, they are about 10 bucks, the probe should be touching the basking spot to get a proper reading. Not sure what type of UVB you are using is it a compact florescent (The curl type ) or the tube type.
A longer tank will also help with exercise and they love to chase their food. Don't forget to gutload your feeder insects. Hope this helps, Good luck and enjoy your little cutie!

[DeesBalls]

here is what im talking about... on the left have the heat/basking spot, on the center have the uva uvb light, and on the right have nothing witch would be the cool side...

should i do this?
10 gal
or 20 gal long...

sorry, i thought i did enought research, but i just found out that the light the girl sold me at the store was NOT a heat/uva/uvb bulb... just the uva/uvb... so im only getting a ambient temp of 80, bc thats the temp of my room...

i WILL be getting a light tomorrow... although i have one i can use, but its already 11pm and its time for his night time...


thanks again for ALL HELP!!!

[mld]

sounds good!!, do you recommended that i put him in a 20gal long so i can have a heat light, the UVB/UVA light and a cool side? bc a 10 gal isnt big enough to accommodated all 3. i want a nice gradient ya know? i will give him a lil bath tomorrow b4 school.
should i dust with calcium the crickets?

OR- could my tank go like this....

(top view)
(heat emmiter) (UVA/UVB light) (no light)

the ( ) representing individual dome lights... ?

You can have (heat lamp/heat emitter) (uvb) (nothing)
what does you top look like is it open? or is it closed with holes for lamps?
He will grow real fast, usually full grown in 1st year.

[mld]

here is what im talking about... on the left have the heat/basking spot, on the center have the uva uvb light, and on the right have nothing witch would be the cool side...

should i do this?
10 gal
or 20 gal long...

sorry, i thought i did enought research, but i just found out that the light the girl sold me at the store was NOT a heat/uva/uvb bulb... just the uva/uvb... so im only getting a ambient temp of 80, bc thats the temp of my room...

i WILL be getting a light tomorrow... although i have one i can use, but its already 11pm and its time for his night time...


thanks again for ALL HELP!!!
So it looks like you have a uvb in a curly bulb form, if you can get the uvb as close to the hot side as possible. that type of uvb has to get pretty close for proper amount of uvb. You could always invest in a Mercury vapour bulb which is a heat and uvb all in one.

[DeesBalls]

So it looks like you have a uvb in a curly bulb form, if you can get the uvb as close to the hot side as possible. that type of uvb has to get pretty close for proper amount of uvb. You could always invest in a Mercury vapour bulb which is a heat and uvb all in one.

one the mercury vapor bulb... do they sell those in the states? i cant find them i have looked before...

so if i put the heat light, and the uva/uvb light close together that will be okay?

tomorrow, i am moving him to a 20 gal long, and plan on having a probably (100w) heat bulb, my uva/uvb light, on top of a 20 gal long cage... like the pic above... with paper towl substrate...

[DeesBalls]

You can have (heat lamp/heat emitter) (uvb) (nothing)
what does you top look like is it open? or is it closed with holes for lamps?
He will grow real fast, usually full grown in 1st year.

just a normal screen top...

[mld]

Yes, they are probably easier to get in the USA, there are several brands you can get Powersun makes a 100w MVB
Zoo Med Powersun Mercury Vapor Bulb for Less (http://www.bigappleherp.com/Zoo-Med-Powersun-UV-Mercury-Vapor-Lamps)

ReptilUV also makes one called the MagaRay Probably the best one on the market.
Mega-Ray® & Reptile UV Products (http://www.reptileuv.com/megaray-products.php)


But your local pet/reptile store should have the powersun.

If your temps are too low you can cover the top with aluminum foil shinny side down for a quick fix. Heat rises.

[Freebody]

Grats! :) what a cute little guy.

[Lankyrob]

I would always go for MVB's for lizards - i like the uncluttered look of the cage with just one bulb and fewer wires going into the enclosure.

[DeesBalls]

Thanks guys.. I think I will get the mvb whom my current light takes a poop..

Getting his cage set up now, lets hope everything works.

[NennaMeerkat]

Thanks guys.. I think I will get the mvb whom my current light takes a poop..

Getting his cage set up now, lets hope everything works.

Good luck! I want to see his cage when you get it all setup and pretty.

[DeesBalls]

i will post pics when i get on my laptop. i have all my passwords saved on there, dont remember my photobucket password lol.

any way i put him in his new cage and he was happy...ate a few crickets and got a drink.. pics up later.

[mld]

Looking forward to those picture!

[DeesBalls]

Here they are!


http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy336/DGilliland22/IMAG0580.jpg

http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy336/DGilliland22/IMAG0579.jpg

http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy336/DGilliland22/IMAG0581.jpg

http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy336/DGilliland22/IMAG0582.jpg

[DeesBalls]

quick eating video... if it works..

VIDEO0029.mp4 video by DGilliland22 - Photobucket (http://s805.photobucket.com/albums/yy336/DGilliland22/?action=view&current=VIDEO0029.mp4)

[mld]

Looks good, he looks like he is getting comfortable in his new home.
Just a couple of things;

I would move your UVB light closer to the hot side if possible.

Those dial type of thermometers don't really give you the accurate temps, right now it is just reading the air. A digital type with a probe attached is the best, you just place the probe tip on the basking spot and get an accurate reading. they are around 10 bucks to buy.

I can't tell from the angle, but I would have the basking branch that is one the hot side a little closer to the hammock, this will make it easy for him to get up and down without jumping too far.

I would also cut the paper towel to fit the inside and use his items to keep the paper tight, this will stop the crickets from hiding underneath it. Those little buggers can pester your baby if left in the tank and if hungry enough they will bit him.

You did a great job and your very fast also! He is definitely a gorgeous little guy.

[DeesBalls]

Looks good, he looks like he is getting comfortable in his new home.
Just a couple of things;

I would move your UVB light closer to the hot side if possible.

Those dial type of thermometers don't really give you the accurate temps, right now it is just reading the air. A digital type with a probe attached is the best, you just place the probe tip on the basking spot and get an accurate reading. they are around 10 bucks to buy.

I can't tell from the angle, but I would have the basking branch that is one the hot side a little closer to the hammock, this will make it easy for him to get up and down without jumping too far.

I would also cut the paper towel to fit the inside and use his items to keep the paper tight, this will stop the crickets from hiding underneath it. Those little buggers can pester your baby if left in the tank and if hungry enough they will bit him.

You did a great job and your very fast also! He is definitely a gorgeous little guy.

to respond to everything...

the uva uvb bulb is now right next to the heat light... they are touching. lol

i have a digital thermometer, but not 100% sure where to put the probe at...

the hammock is his basking spot, the log/branch is just there to get up on it.. so i am a little confused about what you meant by that, sorry...

i will cut the paper towl, but i only put 4 crickets in there (when i left) so im sure he got them all... he ate a total of about 10.

i did it fast bc i was really worried about him, not having the right heat and stuff...

he did shed, and pooped in the old tank though!!

[mld]

to respond to everything...

the uva uvb bulb is now right next to the heat light... they are touching. lol
Great, hard to tell from the side
i have a digital thermometer, but not 100% sure where to put the probe at...
Excellent, just place the probe where he basks, my gal uses her hammock also.
the hammock is his basking spot, the log/branch is just there to get up on it.. so i am a little confused about what you meant by that, sorry...

i will cut the paper towl, but i only put 4 crickets in there (when i left) so im sure he got them all... he ate a total of about 10.
That wonderful, an appetite is good.
i did it fast bc i was really worried about him, not having the right heat and stuff...
What are his temperature on the basking spot now?
he did shed, and pooped in the old tank though!!
Poop is always a good sign that things are going in and out.

[mld]

quick eating video... if it works..

VIDEO0029.mp4 video by DGilliland22 - Photobucket (http://s805.photobucket.com/albums/yy336/DGilliland22/?action=view&current=VIDEO0029.mp4)

Great video, they are so fast when they are hungry, looks great. Eating and pooping machines LOL

[NennaMeerkat]

I love your setup. Just remember that beardies grow REALLY fast so you might have to replace some things in order to support his bigger body. Also on several sights I read recently about caring for young beardies they suggest not really providing a hide because sometimes babies will go under them and kinda just stay not coming out to bask. But then when you remove the hide they will do what they normally do.

Here is information from one such place:

"Hides (little huts or some such they can go under) are good for older Bearded Dragons to give them a place to retreat to for privacy or shadow, but young ones may hide under them all the time at the price of reduced basking and reduced friendliness towards people. So it's best not to keep hides in their tanks until they are juveniles. "

Housing - Care of Bearded Dragons (Pogona vitticeps) (http://beardeddragoncaresheet.weebly.com/housing.html)

[DeesBalls]

Poop is always a good sign that things are going in and out.

not sure of the temps, im not home at the moment, will tell you all when i get home...


i will put the digital probe on there... just sort of on the hammok???

I love your setup. Just remember that beardies grow REALLY fast so you might have to replace some things in order to support his bigger body. Also on several sights I read recently about caring for young beardies they suggest not really providing a hide because sometimes babies will go under them and kinda just stay not coming out to bask. But then when you remove the hide they will do what they normally do.

Here is information from one such place:

"Hides (little huts or some such they can go under) are good for older Bearded Dragons to give them a place to retreat to for privacy or shadow, but young ones may hide under them all the time at the price of reduced basking and reduced friendliness towards people. So it's best not to keep hides in their tanks until they are juveniles. "

Housing - Care of Bearded Dragons (Pogona vitticeps)

i will take out the lil hide, thanks!!
as he grows i will re arrange his tank... i will eventually get a slate tile piece or stone to use for the basking, or maybe build a lil platform..

thanks!!

[NennaMeerkat]

No problem! My big guy never used a hide even when I supplied one later on when he was older. He just moved it around to get more room to dig. Seemed to annoy him.

You know what does work good for young ones? Driftwood type logs that they can climb on. Since beardies are supposed to be semi-aborial the little ones love to climb. So in place of the hide you can supply an area for him to climb on and around.

Something like any of these
http://www.thatpetplace.com/images/presentation/252003.jpg
http://www.thatpetplace.com/images/presentation/252004.jpg
http://pet.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pPETS-3762330t400.jpg

Even my big guy loves his branches and such that I have...even though he is technically to large for them LOL

[DeesBalls]

No problem! My big guy never used a hide even when I supplied one later on when he was older. He just moved it around to get more room to dig. Seemed to annoy him.

You know what does work good for young ones? Driftwood type logs that they can climb on. Since beardies are supposed to be semi-aborial the little ones love to climb. So in place of the hide you can supply an area for him to climb on and around.

Something like any of these
http://www.thatpetplace.com/images/presentation/252003.jpg
http://www.thatpetplace.com/images/presentation/252004.jpg
http://pet.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pPETS-3762330t400.jpg

Even my big guy loves his branches and such that I have...even though he is technically to large for them LOL


i really like that last one!! i do plan on getting some of those for him to put under/around inside.

i did look, his hot spot where he basks is at 110 right now.. and the ambient is lil over 80, like 81-82

[Sapphyr]

i really like that last one!! i do plan on getting some of those for him to put under/around inside.

i did look, his hot spot where he basks is at 110 right now.. and the ambient is lil over 80, like 81-82

I personally think 110 is a little too high. Around 95 - 105 is probably more appropriate. It's probably because the hammock's elevation is close to the lamps, therefore being hotter at the elevation than it would be on the ground. I don't know.. I'd suggest switching the lamps to the other side, but no idea what the ground level would be.

[DeesBalls]

I personally think 110 is a little too high. Around 95 - 105 is probably more appropriate. It's probably because the hammock's elevation is close to the lamps, therefore being hotter at the elevation than it would be on the ground. I don't know.. I'd suggest switching the lamps to the other side, but no idea what the ground level would be.

not just saying this bc you said 105, but i read the gauge wrong and its actually 105, not 110... :)

thanks!

[Sapphyr]

not just saying this bc you said 105, but i read the gauge wrong and its actually 105, not 110... :)

thanks!

Ahhh, well good.~

[DeesBalls]

hes doing good, ate about 20 crickets all day today(2 seperate feedings) seen him get a small drink of water too, witch i was happy about...

thanks for everyones help!

[NennaMeerkat]

Pretty soon you won't be able to keep up with his appetite! LOL

[DeesBalls]

Pretty soon you won't be able to keep up with his appetite! LOL

lol i cant wait!! i cant wait till he grows up nice and big!

[NennaMeerkat]

They do most of their growing within the first year. So be prepared!

[DeesBalls]

They do most of their growing within the first year. So be prepared!

oh, im ready!! :)

[mld]

oh, im ready!! :)

My gal ate so many crickets, I ended up buying them online, so much cheaper! I would go through about 1000 crickets every 2.5-3 weeks. I didn't think one would ever eat that much, but like NennaMeerkat said, they do their most growing in the 1st year.

[DeesBalls]

lol he went through about 80 in 3 days...