First time Royal owner !!

[Zincubus]

Hey !!

I have 5 Corn snakes and thought I'd never stray from them but then I stumbled upon a stunning little beauty!
I am now the proud owner of a beautiful baby Royal , she.'s only about 12" long.

I've read so many great things about Royals and so as soon as I saw her I was
Lovestruck LOL

I have read a lot about them and my only real concern is the "potential" feeding problems they can have. The breeder says that she is a good eater , which is a relief , I'm just worried in case the journey and new surroundings , plus the swap to a viv from a RUB may affect her appetite . She has one small mouse weekly in her RUB whereas I usually feed my Corn snakes out of their viv , in small containers .

I have a 12" Exo Cube viv . The warm section seems to vary from 87 to 92 degrees.

I would like to handle her fairly often , but I am aware that she shouldn't be over-handled .... The breeder says that they don't handle their Royals so there is another litle change for her to get used to , I suppose

How often could I handle her after letting her settle in for a week or so ?

Are there any major differences between Royals and Corns apart from body shape ?

Please post any suggestions to a first time Royal owner ... Ie what to do , Wwhat NOT to do , what to expect , what to be aware of ...eye etc

Thanks !!!!!!

[infernalis]

http://www.thamfriends.com/mat.jpg

[Nafun]

One day, I'll save this so I don't have to type it out from memory every time someone gets their first ball python.


What your royal/ball python needs:

Enclosure
Substrate
Water Dish
Heat Source
Hides
Thermometer/Hygrometer




1> Enclosure

A 20 gallon size enclosure will do for her as a hatchling, but within one year, she will grow out of that and need to be moved to a 40g or larger enclosure. They aren't huge snakes, but they are very fat snakes and take up a lot of space. Your options for an enclosure are thus.

a> Aquarium
Pros: Cheap (You can generally find 55g aquariums on craigslist for 30 to 50 bucks. High visibility.
Cons: Bad at keeping heat and humidity in. Have to pull snake out from above, which is stressful.

b> tubs
Pros: Cheap cheap cheap. Cheapest of the cheap. Great at keeping in heat and humidity.
Cons: Poor snake visibility. Severely limits your heating options. Not very aesthetically pleasing.

c> Custom built enclosures
Pros: Get exactly what you need. Cheaper than purpose built enclosures (see below). Addresses all of the cons of aquariums and tubs.
Cons: You have to build it yourself. It will run you $100 to $200 in supplies, *if* you have your own tools.

d> Purpose built enclosures (vision cages, boaphile cages, etc)
Pros: Very good at keeping heat and humidity in. High visibility. Best looking. Most are stackable. They are built specifically to hold snakes.
Cons: Cost can run anywhere from hundreds of dollars to over a thousand dollars, depending on size.

Substrate - There are tons of options here, literally dozens of different things. I will list the pros and cons of the most popular ones and give you my opinion on them. With all loose substrates, you ideally shouldn't feed the snake inside its enclosure (due to risk of accidental ingestion).


Shredded Newspaper -

Pro: Cheap. Can be changed every day easily if snake has mites or diarrhea.
Con: Looks like crap. Not very absorbent.


Ecoearth - (comes in bricks, you add water and it expands, it's the consistency of top soil, made from coconut fiber)

Pros - Hold moisture very well. Looks like real earth.
Cons - Dark color and loose texture makes spot cleaning more difficult and mites more difficult to see.

Aspen Shavings - (The only wood shavings you should use. NEVER use cedar or pine/fir/spruce. They are toxic and will kill your animal.)

Pros: Cheap, Loose and easy for snakes to burrow in.
Cons: Don't hold moisture very well. Not very aesthetically pleasing.

Astroturf/Reptile Carpet -

Pros - Very easy to spot clean. Cheap (you buy it once, and use it forever).
Cons - Snakes can't burrow into it.

Really, it all comes down to personal preference. As long as your snake has sufficient hides, and sufficient humidity it doesn't matter what his substrate is, as long as you stay away from the toxic ones. Never use Pine/spruce/fir shavings. Never use cedar shavings. Never use sand or gravel.

Water Dish - Anything works. I find dog water dishes work the best for me. Make sure the dish is large enough for the snake to comfortably fit inside, and deep enough that he can completely immerse himself without overflowing. Pet stores sell special reptile dishes, but they're horribly overpriced and none of them are really big enough for a royal/ball python. I highly recommend a light colored water dish (makes it easier to check the water at a glance). Just be sure he always has fresh clean water deep enough to soak in.

Heat Source - This is a big thing. Corns are basically ok at room temperature with a little bit of supplemental heating. Royal/Ball pythons, however, are tropical. They need a temperature gradient running from ~78 to ~85 Farenheit. How you achieve this depends on several factors. Most notably, what temperature the room your snake will be in is, and what kind of enclosure your snake is going to be kept in.


Infrared Heat Lights - These are the red lights, the sort they keep food warm with. If you use these, be sure that the snake cannot get in contact with the bulb. The surface of these bulbs get over 400 degrees and will burn the snake instantly.

Pros: Cheap. Produce a lot of heat. Can be used at night.
Cons: Use a lot of electricity. Dangerous hot spots. Cannot use with tubs. Not aesthetically pleasing.

Ceramic Heat Emitter - These are basically a flat light bulb made out of ceramic. They produce heat, but no light. Like heat lights, you must keep a guard around them to prevent contact with the snake.

Pros: No energy wasted as light. Energy efficient. Can produce a LOT of heat.
Cons: Cannot be used with tubs. Expensive ($50 at a US petstore, cheaper online).

UTH - Under tank heaters are thermostat controlled heat pads that adhere to the underside of an enclosure and heat them.

Pros: Efficient. Inexpensive. Can be used with tubs.
Cons: Don't put out much heat. Unless your ambient temperature is regularly over 75 degrees, supplemental heating will be necessary.

Heat Cable/Tape - Heat cable is basically the guts of an electric blanket. Unlike the other heating solutions, Heat cable is safe to use inside an enclosure. The surface temperature of the cable never gets more than 110 degrees. Because of this, they are extremely efficient at heating enclosures.

Pros: Most efficient. Can be used with tubs.
Cons: Expense on par with Ceramic Heat Emitters.

No matter what kind of heating you use, I highly recommend you get yourself a thermostat. For less than $30 you can get a thermostat and take all of the risk and guesswork out of maintaining your snake's required temperatures.


Hides -- Like water dishes, anything works. You can buy fancy resin hides from a pet store made to look like rocks, or you can use a butter tub with a hole cut in it. Your snake won't know the difference. There are, however, two important things to remember.

1> Your snake should have at least two hides (preferably 3). One on the warm side and one on the cool side is an absolute must.
2> The smaller the hide, the better. If the hide looks so small that your snake couldn't possibly fit inside, it *might* be small enough. A snake is never happier than when it *barely* fits inside its hide. The more walls it touches at once, the happier it will be.

Thermometers/Hygrometers -- If you don't already have one, get an infrared/laser thermometer. The sort that you point and push a button, and it tells you the temperature. They run about $15 and are more useful than a million internal thermometers. Internal thermometers tell you the temperature where the thermometer is, not where the snake is. You should also get a Hygrometer (humidity meter). Do not get a cheap dial one. They are inherently inaccurate. They are rubbish, trust me on this. For $10 you can get a digital hygrometer from a home improvement store. (Check the garden section, think green houses)


Well, that's what you need for a Ball Python. Once you've got your snake, the hard part starts.

Firstly. Royal/Ball Pythons have a reputation as finicky eaters. We could debate the causes of this all night, but that won't change the fact that a newly adopted snake isn't going to want to eat. If you follow the, er, following, advice you shouldn't have a problem getting your little guy to start eating.

Step 1: Before he arrives, have his enclosure set up, and heated in a quiet, unused, and dark room or closet.

Step 2: If he arrives in a box, or bag, or deli cup, open it inside his enclosure, and leave him be. Don't take him out.

Step 3: Leave him in the quiet, dark, unused room for two weeks. Do not open his enclosure except to spot clean or replace soiled water. Do not play a tv or radio in the room. Treat it as you would a basinet with a colicky baby who just fell asleep.

Step 4: If he is not showing signs of shed (blue eyes, dull scales), offer him food after two weeks of the exact species, age, and vital status as he was being fed by the breeder. If he was on live hopper rats, start him on live hopper rats. If he was on frozen/thawed mice, start him on frozen/thawed mice. Feed him at night, and if you must stay to watch, do it from a distance, quietly.

Step 5: If he refuses to eat, continue the isolation for another week and try again.


If he continues to refuse to eat, there are a myriad of things you can try, which I won't get into here, because they're quite gruesome, and hopefully you'll never need them. The important thing is to remember to think like the snake. He is scared, he is in a new place, there are new smells, and he is a baby. He knows he is very near the bottom of the food chain. He also knows that he can go a very long time without food (up to 22 months). Because of this, he will not want to eat until he is sure he is safe, because eating makes him vulnerable.

You won't have to keep up the isolation forever. Once he is eating regularly he can be handled, and moved to a more traveled area. I know it is tempting to handle them immediately, but remember, these animals live a very long time. You are going to have 30+ years to spend with this snake, so give him the two weeks he needs to get used to his situation.

[Lankyrob]

^ ^ ^ What he said!! Cant really add anyhting to that.

MY royal is 9 months or so old and is at the stage now where when i spray his cage in the morning he will slide out onto the floor wanting a cuddle (three days in a row now!) - he currently isnt eating but that (i hope) is because of the time of year.

[Nafun]

Hey !!

I have 5 Corn snakes and thought I'd never stray from them but then I stumbled upon a stunning little beauty!
I am now the proud owner of a beautiful baby Royal , she.'s only about 12" long.

I've read so many great things about Royals and so as soon as I saw her I was
Lovestruck LOL

I have read a lot about them and my only real concern is the "potential" feeding problems they can have. The breeder says that she is a good eater , which is a relief , I'm just worried in case the journey and new surroundings , plus the swap to a viv from a RUB may affect her appetite . She has one small mouse weekly in her RUB whereas I usually feed my Corn snakes out of their viv , in small containers .

I have a 12" Exo Cube viv . The warm section seems to vary from 87 to 92 degrees.

I would like to handle her fairly often , but I am aware that she shouldn't be over-handled .... The breeder says that they don't handle their Royals so there is another litle change for her to get used to , I suppose

How often could I handle her after letting her settle in for a week or so ?

Are there any major differences between Royals and Corns apart from body shape ?

Please post any suggestions to a first time Royal owner ... Ie what to do , Wwhat NOT to do , what to expect , what to be aware of ...eye etc

Thanks !!!!!!


Ok, now that my wall of text is out of the way, I will address your individual questions!

How often could I handle her after letting her settle in for a week or so ?
I wouldn't handle her at all until she has eaten twice in a row. Once she has eaten twice in a row, you can start handling her, but try to limit it to ~15 minutes per week at first. You shouldn't handle her for two days after any given feeding, to prevent any risk of regurg. I also highly recommend long sleeves and gloves during this initial period. Your snake is going to initially assume that you're going to eat her. All of her instincts tell her that when something picks her up, she's about to be eaten. Royals don't often bite, but they *do* occasionally. If you wear gloves and long sleeves, you won't feel the bites, so you won't flinch. Once the snake realizes that biting doesn't "work" to scare you away, she'll stop trying. The goal is to get your snake to move you out of the "predator" column and into the "thing" column. Your goal is to convince her that you're a warm soft tree.

Are there any major differences between corns and royals apart from body shape?

Yes. Lots. First and foremost, they're entirely different families. Pythonidae vs Colubridae. Pythons are more primitive. They still have vestigial rear legs (anal spurs, used during copulation). They also have heat sensing pits on their lips (similar to vipers). They use these to track their prey in the dark, as well as find warm places to bask. The biggest functional difference, however, is their temperature and humidity requirements. Corn snakes are temperate snakes. They are found throughout North America. They can be perfectly happy and healthy with minimal heating and misting at normal household temperatures. Royal pythons, however, are tropical. They live in the subsaharen savannah. They like warmer temperatures, and higher humidity. A royal python needs a temperature gradient of approximately 78 to 95 degrees, and a humidity between 50 and 70%. Insufficient heat can lead to respiratory infection, and insufficient humidity can lead to difficulty shedding. (note: Sustained temperatures in excess of 100 degrees will lead to an acute case of death.)

Please post any suggestions to a first time Royal owner ... Ie what to do , Wwhat NOT to do , what to expect , what to be aware of ...eye etc

First, remember they are very shy snakes. Give them time to adjust. Second. Ball Pythons are often recommended as beginner snakes because they "don't bite". This is not true. Their common name "Ball Python" relates to their tendency to curl into a tight ball and hide their heads when frightened. If your royal/ball python is curled into a ball, and you are still handling her, or forcing her to uncoil (don't do this!) she will bite to defend herself. They don't often bite, and many individual snakes will never bite, but it isn't true that they won't bite. As with any other snake, it's up to you to recognize the signs of stress and to treat the snake appropriately. Expect laziness. I have four, my two males are very active and outgoing when they want to be. The movements of my two females can be tracked with a calender. Expect long periods of fasting. Ball pythons like to go off feed for no particular reason, and they particularly like to go off feed during the winter. Currently, all four of my ball/royal pythons are refusing to eat. Expect craps so big that you have no idea how it all fit in the snake. No, a dog didn't sneak into your snake's enclosure. Ball pythons crap like once a month, and if they've been eating regularly, they'll drop a deuce that is at least 20% of their body weight. Expect escapes. But don't worry, they won't go far. Lastly, learn the cycle of your snake. Learn how long she usually goes between sheds, learn how long she goes between feeds, learn how long she goes between craps. This will help you maximize the time you can spend with your snake, while minimizing the stress your snake feels.

[belovedboas]

I have owned quite a few royals but I dont think I can say anything Nafun didnt already say lol :):)

[Ch^4]

Good work Nafun!

[Zincubus]

I can actually see both sides of the argument which isn't that helpful tbh

I'll probably start feeding her in the viv as she is used to that way , if I get tagged I can always swap to a feeding container.

The breeder feeds her in her RUB but then again they don't handle their snakes at all, though.

[marvelfreak]

Hello and welcome!

[NennaMeerkat]

Being a new snake owner myself (though I have owned corn snakes in the past) I was always always told to feed outside the normal home for the snake. My corn snakes...always did it. However I found out with this new snake she won't eat unless a certain ritual is performed and part of that is to make sure she is in her normal home. If I remove her at any time on the day I plan on feeding her she will not eat.

So basically do whatever it takes to get your snake to eat. If that means feeding it in your closet in a certain tub on a certain day with the lights on ect ect do it.

[Nafun]

Most of my snakes will eat anywhere, but each of my 4 ball pythons has at least one idiosyncrasy when it comes to eating. I agree with NennaMeercat, find out what works for your snake and go with it.

One word of warning though.

Ball pythons are very strong imprint feeders. They will get used to feeding in a certain way (hence the idiosyncrasies and rituals) and can't easily be transitioned. It is usually possible to break them of habits, but it is much easier to either try to prevent them from imprinting, or to just let them imprint and cope with it.

One thing I would highly recommend is not letting them imprint on albino or colored rodents (feed a mix), as red eyed whites are a pain in the butt to breed, and dark colored rodents are a pain in the butt to buy.

[Zincubus]

She's on small white standard mice at the moment , how will I know when to move her up medium then large mice and eventually onto rat pups .

Corn snakes usually feed on one and a half times the thickest part of their body, as I understand. .... but Royals feed on rodents the same thickness as their bodies. . Is that roughly correct. I realise that Royals have a much thicker body shape.

[Lankyrob]

My royal would happily take an item 1.5 to 2times the size of its body. I am currently thinking about moving him from mice to rats but he isnt interested, not usre if that is time of year of finicky and not wanting to change. For now i will offer a rat each feed and see what happens.

[Zincubus]

So you simply try with a rat pup and if refused feed it a mouse straight away .... or leave a gap before feeding a mouse ?

[Lankyrob]

No sorry, could have written it better, i will offer rats each feed until it takes one. It has been eight weeks now and he hasnt eaten one yet so will continue every other week until he gets hungry enough to take one.

[Zincubus]

Well 2 days later snd she seems to gave settled in nicely . Despite two lovely hides provided , one warm and one cool , she has chosen the back corner to male basecamp :)
I've blacked out the sides and back of the viv but everytime have a peek at her she's got her head out having a look around . I thought shed just curl up and sleep all day , nicely surprised .

[edens]

hi i am new too, and no idea what i am doing on this site :-) am trying to figure it out!

i need some help! or rather, Pandora, my python does....
she has been constipated going on three weeks, is still eating without trouble though....
and she still hasnt finished shedding; her head is still full and her eyes covered.
i say her but dont ask me why, have no idea of sex yet....
i have tried baths, she has a large water dish in her tank, and the temps/humidity seem regulated
but she seems swollen from about 5 inches bellow her head to half an inch before her tip she is about a foot long.
if i cant help her by the end of this week i will bring her to the vet.... but i just cant afford to go before then...
any tips and help will be great!
thanks from both of us!

Pandora and her owner :-)