I need some advice [Archive] - sSNAKESs : Reptile Forum

Steph

01-01-11, 08:29 PM

I just recently bought a children's python that is 3 years old on the 29th of December and i asked the couple that i bought him from and they said he ate 11 days ago i bought him a frozen mice and thawed it well it's been two days now that he won't touch his food should i give it some time to adjust to his new habitat or should i be worried and take him to a vet i'm looking forward to your answers thanks a lot!

infernalis

01-01-11, 08:42 PM

http://www.thamfriends.com/mat.jpg

Will0W783

01-01-11, 09:41 PM

At 3 years old, it is a full-grown animal. During this time of year, a lot of adult snakes, especially males, go off feed because they are looking for love. (Typical men, lol, they become very single-minded when in the mood for a little sumthin' sumthin'). Also, when moved to a new environment, most snakes will a week to a month to settle in. As long as your temperatures, cage size and hide boxes are adequate, it's nothing to worry about if it doesn't eat for a while. I don't even offer food to newcomers for the first week unless they are under a year old.

Just to ease your fears a bit more and put things into perspective. I have a large male carpet "mutt" that goes off feed for at least 6 months out of the year. In 2008 it was January-May, in 2009 it was October-March, and this past year he was fasting from May-December. He always starts up again when he's ready and is offered food once every other week until he takes it again.

I'd leave your new friend to settle in for a week and then try again. Also, make sure what you're offering is what the snake was eating. If it was used to eating live, it likely won't take f/t right away. If it was used to rats, it might not take mice, or vice versa. If the seller didn't tell you already, a quick phone call or email can answer that question. Members of the Antaresia genus (Children's, Stimson's, spotted, and anthill pythons) are generally very hardy little buggers, so I would not be too concerned.

Keep me posted and happy to give more care advice if needed. I keep a trio of Stimson's pythons I've had for about a year now, and one female is gravid and just had her pre-lay shed (happy dance).

Steph

01-01-11, 10:49 PM

Reptile_Reptile

01-01-11, 11:00 PM

that just means you stressed him out handling him before he got used to his environment. i would suggest that you keep him on F/T especially if the previous owners have had him on it. just let him sit for about a week now and then after a few days after that that he is used to you and his enclosure offer him some food. its what ive done and its what the pro's do. he just needs some time

Steph

01-01-11, 11:08 PM

Yeah i've been handling him everyday i just text the previous owners he only fed him F/T So i'm just gonna wait a week to get used to his habitat and me and then try feeding him again and see if he eats it the previous owner told me i should use the tongs and move it by the tail he might take it so hopefully he'll eat thank you both so much i feel relieved !!! and happy new year

presspirate

01-01-11, 11:09 PM

Keep offering him food on a weekly basis. Make sure that your prey item is just as hot as you can get it. (Hot tap water hot) Eventually he will eat it. :yes:

Steph

01-01-11, 11:15 PM

i thawed the mouse with very hot water while it was in the bag but i'll wait a week and let him adjust to his new habitat and thaw it in hot water thanks!

Ch^4

01-01-11, 11:29 PM

Just make sure you offer him a "fresh" thawed rat the next time you try to feed him. And a week of isolation for the snake can do wonders.....however, as a keeper, it is one of the most difficult things to do with a new snake!

Good luck and keep us posted!

Steph

01-01-11, 11:43 PM

i've been handling him way too much so i'm just going to leave him alone for a few days then feed him Frozen thawed mouse hopefully he'll eat thanks and i see you're from NYC to Bellevue WA!

Steph

01-01-11, 11:44 PM

and is that really a pic of your snakes body if it is that's really nice skull patterns

Ch^4

01-01-11, 11:51 PM

i've been handling him way too much so i'm just going to leave him alone for a few days then feed him Frozen thawed mouse hopefully he'll eat thanks and i see you're from NYC to Bellevue WA!

Sounds good! I'm actually from San Diego but live in Seattle, WA now! Bellevue eh?! You're just across the drink (Lake Washington) from me!

and is that really a pic of your snakes body if it is that's really nice skull patterns

Thanks! That's my adult BP...he has that one skull on his body, which is partly why I picked him; he stood out in the clutch (and was a runt...I have a soft spot for runts). :)

Steph

01-01-11, 11:58 PM

i'm sorry what i meant to say was 'i see you live in Seattle ** I moved from NYC to Bellevue WA' lol and i have a soft spot for runts as well

NennaMeerkat

01-02-11, 03:45 AM

Hey hun, being the new owner of a snake myself I can tell you it is a harrowing time when they don't want to eat for you! Mine went for almost 2 weeks without eating and it scared the life out of me! Not only that but just like yours when I did present food mine seemed to get defensive and such. From what I was told here, as you already have, just give them a week without ANY handling or outside stimulus from the outside world except for changing water and removing poo. After a week then try again, if it still doesn't work wait another following the same routine.

Now your snake is an adult and apparently, news to me believe me, it might just be in the "off feed" mode which means it may not want to eat. To really test this try live food, even if it is for just one time (stunned of course since we don't want any hurt snakes around here) and see what happens. I don't know any snake that would turn down a live item...unless of course it is in "off feed" mode. You may also want to just feed it straight in its normal home for a few times instead of taking it out or anything. Moving it to a new place to feed, for some snakes, might make them not want to eat.

Whatever you do don't try and feed it day after day after day. Try once a week only and on the same day every time. However if they don't eat just keep leaving them alone and only change the water. If you get worried then a gentle nudge to see if your new guy is active and okay can't hurt, as long as it is a nudge and nothing else. Once you see it is okay then just leave.

Lankyrob

01-02-11, 06:37 AM

I really wouldnt worry about trying live food as the snake has already been eating F/t - in my mind that would be a step back as the snake may than only eat live.

I have to tease feed most of my snakes except my retic as he would probably eat the rats still frozen!! Try to hold the prey with tongs by the skin behind the scruff of the neck (dont hold too close to the head as you dont want the snake striking and hitting the tongs) and give it a wiggle about 5 inches or so in front of the snake (or about two foot for a retic ;) ;) ) and wait for it to strike.

As others have said if it doesn't eat the tease feed i would leave the prey on a plate in the enclosure (to stop it picking up substrate as well as the prey) for a couple of hours or even overnight - if it doesnt eat throw the prey away (do not refreeze!!) and try again in a week or even two.

Hope it gets freeding for you soon, i know its stressful when they dont eat but try to relax as personally i think the snakes pick up on your stress.

Let us know how it goes!!

shaunyboy

01-02-11, 12:43 PM

thank you very much for the the reply .......i had him for a couple of days he had no problem with me picking him up very sweet snake 2 hours ago i put him in a box with the frozen thawed mouse and left him for an hour and a half to see if he would eat but when i went to pick him up he went in defense mode and tried to take a snap at me i'm thinking it got confused and thought i was food so im guessing he likes live mice ?

when in feeding mode they tend to strike the hottest heat signature close to them,your hand in this case

always make sure you give the food a good heat before offering it.i give the head a little extra heat at the last minute to encourage a strike to the head

some daft carpets eat their prey backwards and get all jammed up on the hind legs

ive found giving the head an extra heat cures this

did you heat the mouse up before offering it to him ?

i usualy use a hair dryer to heat my rats etc

has he got plenty hides,1 hot end 1 cool end at least

some fake plants and a few perches or branches would be good as well

i reccommed that when buying a new snake you give it 7 days peace and quiet to settle in before attempting a feed

it gives them time to feel secure and check out their new enviroment

i only change my water every 7 days so any new snakes get no human contact other than putting them in their new tank

once you give his next meal a good heat grab it with a pair of tongs and give it a gentle shake 2 to 5 inches in front of his face

if he does not strike and eat it

leave the prey item in the tank overnight

try feeding him just before you go to bed as they ususally hunt at night

also once you all go to bed and turn the lights out....

he may take it once its dark and theres not so much human traffic going about

also putting his tank in a quiet spot of your house may help

i would not worry about how long he's not eaten for ive had hatchlings go 10 month before taking their first meal with no ill effect

yours is adult so it can go much longer without food

it may also be as willow suggested its in breeding mode so will be off its food for a few weeks

let us know how it goes next feeding day

i am not having a go at you mate but its good to get a snake eating regular before you start handling

imo after 4 or 5 feeds you would consider him feeding correctly then enjoy your time handling him

dont handle him for 3 days after he feeds

this gives him time to digest his food

he may reguratate if you handle him straight after a meal

i wish you the best of luck on his next feeding day mate

cheers shaun

Steph

01-02-11, 03:25 PM

thanks very much he's just curled up on top of his hideout under the heat lamp i'm just gonna wait till friday to feed him and have him settled in his new environment

Steph

01-02-11, 03:32 PM

i just have one hide out for him and a dish bowl he likes to go to and of course the heat lamp i have to purchase the tongs by this week maybe buy another small hide out or a small branch? he really loves to climb and thanks again

NennaMeerkat

01-02-11, 04:03 PM

Lankyrob

01-02-11, 04:23 PM

It should reallly have a hide in the hot end and one in the cool end so it can choose either. At the moment if the hide is at one end he has to choose between safety and heat/cool.

Hillsberry

01-02-11, 05:49 PM

I would just give your snake sometime. My female Jungle Carpet Python hasn't eaten in 4 months. It sucks when they don't eat for you. I hate how my girl won't eat. But I am sure your snake will turn around soon and take the food with no problem. Good luck and welcome to the site!! :)

Steph

01-03-11, 12:23 AM

my tank is the size of a 10 gallon tank but he's very small 2.5 feet he just has his hide out and his water dish

Steph

01-03-11, 12:26 AM

thank you all once again i feel very relieved but hopefully by Friday he'll eat i'll just buy tongs and wiggle the F/T mouse to see if he'll eat it i just hope he drinks his water in the mean time

NennaMeerkat

01-03-11, 01:18 AM

I don't know how big they get full grown but I know for our Hognose we have her in a 15 gallon that "should" suit her for her entire life...or so said the breeder. We got 2 separate hides and her water bowl. That is it. You should probably get another hide for your guy. And the hides themselves should be fairly small, once again advice from my breeder, to make the snake feel more secure. Something that they can curl up in with a bit of wiggle room, but not overly large where they have a ton of extra space.

Steph

01-03-11, 01:36 AM

i have a hollow log good enough size for him he loves to be on it and curl up inside also his water dish is perfect size it's a hassle to change the light bulbs from day to night

NennaMeerkat

01-03-11, 01:51 AM

I couldn't imagine having a "tropical" snake at this time. Our hognose requires a heating pad that is under the aquarium and a heat lamp that I turn on if I feel the house getting to chilly. Other than that we are doing good. Thus a lot less hassle than having to switch lights or keep a high high humidity like some snakes need.

Steph

01-03-11, 02:21 AM

my bf really wants a tri colored hog nose he had 2 anacondas one green male and one yellow female...the female anaconda he had was so tame never bit him and when he fed her he'd hold the mouse and the anaconda would just take it from him slowly...weird he also has 2 ball pythons... a macklots python.... 2 false water cobras ...a jungle carpet python mexican black king snake.... spotted python.... a pacific north west garter.....sonoran garter snake and a Savannah monitor he got me the children's python for Christmas and now that i have a snake he wants one really bad he knows a lot about snakes but times i ask him questions sometimes he gets agitated so i ask for advice from other people but i got good advice from you all something he failed to tell me about thanks guys!!!

NennaMeerkat

01-03-11, 03:21 AM

WOW huge collection. Wish I had the space, time, and money for such a collection. Would end up having all kinds of snakes and lizards. Probably some other small animals...more than likely rodent types.

To bad that he won't help you out with advice! You would think someone with his collection would just LOVE to help others out and share his apparent knowledge. Oh well he missed out. Glad all of us could help ya.

shaunyboy

01-03-11, 04:10 PM

How big is the home you have him in? I know for some animals it isn't a good idea to over crowd their home. Not sure if it goes for snakes thought. Probably wouldn't hurt to get another hide one way or the other. I know my snake constantly moves between her two hides all through the day.

its the opposite with snakes mate

too much extra space or a vivarium thats too big can make them feel vulnerable and nervous.this stresses them out and the first thing they do is stop eating

some species cope quite well with extra space like carpet pythons

other species freak out at all the space

snakes like to touch all the sides of their hides it helps them feel secure (a nice tight fitting hide)

as rob said its advisable to have a hide up near the hot end (not directly under the heat source though)

also a hide up the cool end

a nervous snake will go into a place thats way too hot and cook itself to death rather than be out in the open and nervous

branches are another good idea as your snakes semi arboreal and they love hanging off a bracnh.the hieght also makes them feel secure

cheers shaun

Steph

01-09-11, 02:37 AM

update : i bought a frozen thawed mouse today thawed it well and tried feeding my snake he wouldn't eat it but he was going for my bf instead he was very hungry and every time my bf tried to get him he'd try to take a snap at him we heated up the mouse my bf was holding him by its tail and would still go for my bf's hand lol! so i'm guessing live mice instead he was extremely hungry and all he would aim for was my bf's hot hand -_- my bf once had a ball python that did the sameeeeee exact thing my snake is doing so he fed him live mice and he went for it he wanted to witch him to f/t but it was a b***ch to go through so he went back to live no problem i really dont want to feed my snake live but i have no choice i want him to eat !!

Lankyrob

01-09-11, 07:34 AM

shaunyboy

01-09-11, 08:50 AM

If you hold the mouse by hand most snakes will strike at you not the mouse as it is a bigger heat signal. Use tongs or heat the mouse then leave it on a plate in the enclosure. My Retic i cant be within about 5 feet of when he feeds as he will strike at anyhting warm as soon as food is around - last week he struck at the heat lamp in his cage (he really is that daft!)

i have a coastal jaguar like that rob

he's the gentlest snake in my collection until theres food on the go

he hits anything with a heat signature

even strikes at the glass as i'm taking the lock off to feed him

i've always found it fascinating the change in carpets at meal time they go from the most placid snake ever to a psycotic nutter in the blink of an eye

awsome to watch though.....!!!

cheers shaun

Steph

01-09-11, 05:56 PM

yeah we heated up the mouse but he wouldn't eat it he was more interested in my bf i'm going to try and get tongs today i know he is hungry just wants something really hot

Lankyrob

01-09-11, 05:57 PM

Before we bought "proper" snake feeding tongs we used kitchen tongs, they do the same job!

Steph

01-10-11, 01:18 AM

i'm gonna buy some tongs tomorrow and a live mouse just to see if he eats that instead i'm gonna make sure my bf feeds him and make sure he doesn't let the mouse bite my baby

Steph

01-10-11, 01:21 AM

and thanks to you all :)

shaunyboy

01-10-11, 07:51 AM

i'm gonna buy some tongs tomorrow and a live mouse just to see if he eats that instead i'm gonna make sure my bf feeds him and make sure he doesn't let the mouse bite my baby

you could always stun the mouse before offering it

just give it a thump to the back of the head

it helps prevent them attacking your snake a little

cheers shaun

Steph

01-10-11, 09:59 PM

snake still wouldn't go for the live mouse he only strikes at us when in the box he's weird

Reptile_Reptile

01-10-11, 10:46 PM

i'd say no live mouse. and if you have too. stun it live is jsut dangerous and offers nothing extra but harmful effects 2 being danger and parasites. i'd just keep trying F/T

Steph

01-10-11, 11:07 PM

my bf ended up killing the mouse i put the mouse in his habitat to see if he'd eat it but no he's just basking at the moment