DIY Wood Cage Build Guide

[Marica]

Please bare with me, this is my first DIY build guide. I really enjoy designing and building stuff for my animals and put a fair bit of research into this project. I’ve included links wherever I thought more information would be helpful. If you have any questions or comments I'd love to hear them.

First off, a big thanks to my dad for helping me build these cages and for lending his tools. And to Greg West (http://www.ssnakess.com/forums/members/greg-west.html) of Cornel’s World (http://www.cornelsworld.com/) for wiring the Flexwatt and his advice on its installation.

I based this build mostly off of this design/guide (http://candoia.ca/cage.html). Below is a sketch I created using Google SketchUp (http://sketchup.google.com/) showing 1 cage and a pedestal. I decided to make a pedestal as I didn't want the cage directly on the floor, nor did I want to have to crouch down too far to reach into the bottom cage.

http://i902.photobucket.com/albums/ac226/Marica12/Cages/Cage.jpg

We built 3 cages, each approximately 3' wide x 2' deep x 1.5' high. We were able to get 3 cages and a pedestal out of 3, 4'x8' 3/4" birch sheets. You could also use oak or maple depending on the grain pattern you prefer but birch is generally the cheapest. An even cheaper option is of course melamine. These cages will house my adult Corn Snakes and I plan on building 6'x2' versions that I can stack with these when my Dumeril's Boas require larger accommodations.

Single Cage Cut List:

2 x 36"x24" - Top & Bottom
2 x 24"x18" - Sides
1 x 18"x34.5" - Back

1 x 4"x36" - Bottom Trim/Litter Dam
1 x 2"x37" - Top Trim
2 x 2"x16.5" - Side Trim

When doing our initial cuts we left the side and top trim pieces an inch longer so that we could get the angle cuts aligned perfectly later on. Though you could always adjust the length of the sides or the top and square them off. You could also get fancy and look into moulding trims to make it more ornate.

There should be some leftover for a ledge piece which you can cut to whatever shape you prefer. I made sure mine where large enough to contain a large Exo Terra hide.

Pedestal Cut List:

1 x 4"x36" - Front
1 x 4"x34.5" - Back
2 x 4"x24" – Sides

To keep our pedestal frame from shifting around we cut 4 small triangular pieces out of leftover for corner supports (shown below).

Material List:

- Wood Screws (150 box, size 8, 1.5")
- Wood Screws (3-4, 3” for attaching the ledge)
- Wood Glue (optional)
- Drill and 1/8" Drill Bit
- Screw Caps, Wood Filler (optional)
- Vents (personal preference as to quantity and style)
- Adjustable Desk Grommet (http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/246351/Master-Caster-Cord-Away-Grommet-2/) (for thermometer/stat probe access)
* Equipment (jigsaw, hole saw) to cut openings for vents and grommets
- 11"x24" Flexwatt (heat tape info (http://www.cornelsworld.com/heattape.htm))
- Linoleum & Adhesive
* Check with a floorcovering company if they have leftover or samples for cheap
- Sandpaper/Sanding Block
- Stain or Primer & Paint for the outside of the cage (optional)
- Water-Based Varathane
- Cloths/Brushes to apply finishes
- Silicone
- Glass (2 x 13"x16-3/4" - the glass needs to be approximately 1/2" less the height of the opening to allow it to fit into the track, the overlap is personal preference though I would suggest at least 1.5")
* Ask at a glass shop if they have any leftover pieces they'd be willing to give you a deal on
- Glass Track (http://www.rowecraft.com/rockler/glass-door.php), Plastic or Metal (I prefer plastic)
* The glass shop should carry it and some hardware stores as well
- Glass Door Locks
- Stick-On Finger Pulls (http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/vision-cages-racks-tubs-and-visionariums/visionariums/-/plastic-finger-pull-door-handle/)

Since my dad has an air compressor we opted to use his nail gun as opposed to screws. If you are using screws you will want to drill pilot holes for them. I have used the term 'attach' in the assembly descriptions below as some may prefer to use nails, others screws.

I had a difficult time finding circular vents so I picked up some rectangular floor registers. If you are concerned with the size of the slits in the vents you could purchase some screen mesh to surround them and tuck through the back.

Pedestal Assembly:

Attach the side pieces behind the front piece and the back inside the side pieces. I chose this method of placement with the cages as well so that the front would not show any edge grain. Next place the 4 corners inside the frame and attach.

http://i902.photobucket.com/albums/ac226/Marica12/Cages/Cages011-1.jpg

Cage Assembly:

Cut openings in the back piece or side pieces for the vents. We cut the opening for the grommet near the end of assembly and centered it above the heat tape, though you could get it done at this point. As we plan on eventually making more cages and stacking them side-by-side we placed our vents and grommet in the back, however if you prefer they can be placed on opposite sides of the cage.

http://i902.photobucket.com/albums/ac226/Marica12/Cages/Cages005-1.jpg

http://i902.photobucket.com/albums/ac226/Marica12/Cages/Cages008-1.jpg

Attach the sides to the back piece.

http://i902.photobucket.com/albums/ac226/Marica12/Cages/Cages018-1.jpg

Then attach the top piece.

http://i902.photobucket.com/albums/ac226/Marica12/Cages/Cages021.jpg

http://i902.photobucket.com/albums/ac226/Marica12/Cages/Cages023.jpg

[Marica]

If you are installing heat tape inside the cage line it up on one side of the bottom piece about 3" from the side and front to leave room to glue down the linoleum, then align and attach the assembled upper portion to the bottom piece making sure not to puncture the heat tape.

http://i902.photobucket.com/albums/ac226/Marica12/Cages/Cages034.jpg

http://i902.photobucket.com/albums/ac226/Marica12/Cages/Cages025.jpg

Here’s a back view of the cage at this stage.

http://i902.photobucket.com/albums/ac226/Marica12/Cages/Cages031.jpg

Next attach the litter dam, then align and cut the side and top trim and attach.

http://i902.photobucket.com/albums/ac226/Marica12/Cages/Cages038.jpg

http://i902.photobucket.com/albums/ac226/Marica12/Cages/Cages042.jpg

Cut the linoleum to fit inside the cage, apply the adhesive around the heat tape and install the linoleum. Do not glue the linoleum to the heat tape.

Next attach the ledge.

Cover the linoleum as applying the Varathane can get quite messy. I coated the inside of my cages with 3 coats of Varathane, gave it a light sanding, then applied a final fourth coat. You can also stain or paint the outside of the cage at this point. Once the interior is dry, seal the bottom edges around the lino with silicone.

http://i902.photobucket.com/albums/ac226/Marica12/Cages/Cages016.jpg

We attached the glass track with cement glue, though I’ve read recommendations for Gorilla Glue and Liquid Nails on woodworking forums. Also with the track, I only lined the top and bottom, though am contemplating adding it on the sides as well.

I let the cages air out for a week once complete, though a couple days is probably sufficient.

All that’s left is to insert the glass, attach the finger pulls, install the lock and decorate the interior.

Here’s my final setup:

http://i902.photobucket.com/albums/ac226/Marica12/Cages/10-09176.jpg

Thanks for looking :)

[TylerWortman]

Man, thats awesome. Im jealous!

[marvelfreak]

SWEEEEET! Man that is awesome. You could make some money building this.:)

[Ch^4]

BEAUTIFUL! Wanna come over to my place and build me a few of these?! ;)

Great work. I am thoroughly impressed by the level of craftsmanship and attention to details.

[presspirate]

Very nice comprehensive post! And great looking cages! Thanks for sharing with us!:yes:

[Xanafein]

interesting, could one of these house an adult carpet, ive been hearing mixed reviews as far as the neccasary space for one, and a build plan like this would be excelent, assuming it can house an adult comfortably

[infernalis]

great looking work........

[Marica]

Thanks everyone.

@ Marvelfreak - For the amount of time it took me, even with the help of my tradesman father, there's no way it would be worth my time. Besides Greg's got a corner on the market here - he has a great workshop setup and has the knowledge and experience to make a variety of wonderful cages.

@ Ch^4 - I didn't put all this effort into writing this guide for you to be a lazy a$$ and ask me to build you one ;)

@ presspirate - Glad to hear. I wanted to share here first before posting elsewhere as I value the feedback on this forum.

@ Xanafein - I'm not familiar with enclosure size requirements for carpets, though this design could easily be modified and should be good at maintaining a high-humidity environment.

[Xanafein]

Thats why im loving it, im already drawing up a parts list and talking to a local breeder about houseing size he says for a jungle and a coastal male they should be fine, but if i find them to be getting larger than average i would have to consider moving them to a tank with more up room

im opting for RHE over flexwatt though, and what would you reccomend for lighting for easier viewing?

[Marica]

Adult Jungle carpets and Irian Jaya carpets should be kept in a cage with a minimum of 4-6 square feet of floor space, such as a 2'x2' or a 3' x 2' cage. Cages should be 15"-24" high. Any taller and the cage will become difficult to maintain a proper heat gradient. As a rule of thumb for pythons in general, some keepers say that one square foot of floor space per foot in length is optimal, but I think slightly less than one square foot is fine for carpets, due to their slim build.

Xanafein, I found the above housing info on ACReptiles. As for display lighting I've seen others use under-cabinet LED lights / lighting strips.

[percey39]

Great work, they look fantastic and to think what you would of paid for all of them from a shop! Its always fun building your own as you can do things your own way.

[2006gt]

AWESOME!!! thats all i can say other than im jelous i couldnt do it hahahah

[belovedboas]

That is sweet giving me ideas!! is lanoleum okay for snakes cause I have a few wooden vivs and that would look sharp as a bottom very clean i would think too!! Good work

[Marica]

Thanks. The linoleum sure does make for easy cleaning. And, yes, it has been used in reptile cages for years and I don't think I've read a single negative comment about it's use.

[belovedboas]

I thought so I too have heard of it used before!!!!!I think I'm gonna use it...... you did a great job

[Greg West]

Looks Great Marica. Wondering why I hadn't heard from you guys in a while... Maybe I should put you to work at my house...

Good Job on the cages.

[Marica]

LOL...Thanks Greg. The thermostat we picked up from you last summer is doing a great job regulating them. It's fun, but a lot of work (even with my dad's help) - I have no idea how you manage to build cages and work and organize reptile expos and ... ;)

[sickvenom]

hi marica. i know this topic is a few months old, so hopefully you'll see this....

what kind of temps are you getting in your cages? i'll be building wood cages soon and want to put the flexwatt inside, like you did. does the linoleum get too hot? i'm obviously concerned that the flexwatt won't have any ventilation. my design, however, will have the entire piece of flexwatt inside the cage, and not hanging out like yours. i'm going to solder the wire instead of using the bulky plastic covers. i'll also seal everything with liquid tape. thanks.

[Marica]

I am regulating the Flexwatt in the 3 cages with a Herpstat set at 85F. I also double-check the temperature of the linoleum above the heat tape frequently with a temp gun and there doesn't appear to be any more than a half a degree fluctuation above or below 85F.

I basically followed Greg West (http://www.ssnakess.com/forums/members/greg-west.html)'s heating layout and had him wire the Flexwatt for me, so if you have any technical questions regarding wiring and/or installation I would recommend contacting him. Personally, for the inch or 2 lacking inside/sticking out I feel better about having all the connections and wires outside and having a straight, even seal all around the inside of the enclosure.

[sickvenom]

I am regulating the Flexwatt in the 3 cages with a Herpstat set at 85F. I also double-check the temperature of the linoleum above the heat tape frequently with a temp gun and there doesn't appear to be any more than a half a degree fluctuation above or below 85F.

I basically followed Greg West (http://www.ssnakess.com/forums/members/greg-west.html)'s heating layout and had him wire the Flexwatt for me, so if you have any technical questions regarding wiring and/or installation I would recommend contacting him. Personally, for the inch or 2 lacking inside/sticking out I feel better about having all the connections and wires outside and having a straight, even seal all around the inside of the enclosure.

glad to know it's working out. where do you have your herpstat probe?

[Marica]

I've attached the probe to the linoleum, centered above the heat tape in the middle cage.

Good luck with your build. Post pictures when your done, I look forward to seeing them.

[sickvenom]

i will post pics. thanks for your help.

[paulholcomb]

how much do you have invested in each enclosure?

[Marica]

I would guesstimate that each enclosure cost about $125 to build.

[Coffee Black]

Wow, those are nice. Makes me feel ashamed at my in progress water season vader.

[Coffee Black]

Water Dragon cage * wow. Damned cell phone.

[Nobodyspecial]

I know this is a bit of an old thread but you've inspired me. I love building things and I'm sure as heck not getting another fish tank when I upgrade my ball's enclosure. I don't know a whole lot about corn snakes, but I'm assuming the flexwatt is creating the hotspot. Is the flexwatt alone enough to get the right ambient temps through out the tank? Or do you keep the tanks in a room with the heat cranked up to whatever it needs to be to maintain the proper temps for the cool side?

[Marica]

Thanks. I love designing stuff, building not so much - but that's what dads are for.

Yes, the Flexwatt heat tape provides a 'hotspot' regulated with a Herpstat to 85F. The room these enclosures are in is around 65-70F, which may seem a little chilly, however, I frequently find them up in their ledge hides which are on the opposite side of the heat tape, so they must not mind. Really, unless your home is intolerably cold to you, I wouldn't be overly concerned with ambient temp - if they have an area or spot that provides the heat required they will seek it out when necessary.

Good luck with your build and I look forward to pics.

[Rog]

I love these cages. Multilevels are awesome for snakes. Beats the heck out of my cheap shelves and my plastic tubs!