View Full Version : Ball Python Feeding Help (pictures included)
Nicolak
05-02-09, 12:01 AM
Alright, My ball python is almost 2 years old, just bought him roughly a week ago. The breeder said he eats small live rats so I went and bought a rat.
The issue: he isn't eating. I will be buying a digital thermometer for the basking area and cool end shortly as well as a digital hydrometer.
Right now I just use the digital one I have to check each area manually.
The damp towel seems to be needed to keep the humidity up, any other suggestions? His "humidity box" right now is a small rubbermaid with a hole cut in the top of the lid for him to go into. It has about an inch of water and place directly under the light and on top of the heat tape under the tank.
He's very friendly & during the day I cover the glass with towels to keep it dark in his cage. I handle him about 30 min a day around 10pm when he wakes up, I have tried feeding him before and after handling him (3 tries so far).
Any suggestions please?
PICTURES
The rat:
Click for High-Def Image of Rat (http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/3480/ratr.jpg)
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/2545/ratsize.jpg
The snake:
Click for High-Def image of Snake's Eyes (shed incoming?) (http://img79.imageshack.us/img79/6726/img1708u.jpg)
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/7269/length.jpg
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/4755/eyesdyd.jpg
The enclosure:
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/7023/labelstank.jpg
Close-up of enclosure:
Cool Hide inside (http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/6927/img1ihl.jpg)
Left View (http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/4320/img2izz.jpg)
Right View (http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/5555/img3e.jpg)
Cool Hide (http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/2107/img4lws.jpg)
Warm Hide (http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/8765/img6u.jpg)
Humidity Box (http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/3853/img7v.jpg)
Water Dish (http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/8205/img5m.jpg)
Chu'Wuti
05-02-09, 09:51 AM
That's about the most detailed husbandry description I've ever seen--great job! Now to discuss a few issues . . .
First of all, moving is extremely stressful for a snake. Add handling for 30 min a day by a new Godzilla--that's you--and you have one very stressed snake. For the next week, just leave him alone. Don't handle him at all, don't try to feed him. Change the water daily and spot clean as needed, but don't do anything else except:
Buy some long-fiber sphagnum moss (orchid moss is cheaper than that sold for reptiles). Dump the water out of your humidity box. Soak the sphagnum moss in some water, then squeeze it out until it is just damp, not dripping. Put that in the humidity hide. That way he can stay hydrated without being forced to soak.
You can also buy a spray bottle & mist 3-4 times a day to keep the humidity up in the enclosure. Glad to hear you're buying digital thermometer & hygrometer--they are much better than the stick-on types. I too used stick-on types until I learned better--I've never removed them from my BP's enclosure because he likes to hang on them! ;)
He does not appear to be going into a shed cycle to me, but do you know when he last shed?
The main problem is most likely stress. Just let him chill for a week. Watch for him to come out and explore and hunt, then try feeding him. Don't handle before feeding, just try feeding. The least amount of stress when you're trying to feed, the better. Also, don't handle him after he finally eats, as some BPs will regurgitate their meal if they are handled within 24 hours of eating. Once he does eat, you won't see much of him for 2-3 days, most likely; don't worry.
Later, after we get the feeding issue resolved, I'll suggest a different climbing piece, but let's not worry about that now. Good luck!
Nicolak
05-02-09, 01:29 PM
Ah thanks for the help! :)
About the moss though, how often does it need to be replaced?
Also I forgot to add, I didn't want to feed him in his enclosure so I move him & the rat to a big rubbermaid (not transparent).
I can add an image of it if you like. O.O
Chu'Wuti
05-02-09, 03:16 PM
Re the moss--I replace mine about once a week or so or if it begins to smell; sooner if my BP defecates in it. It'll have to be rewet during the week.
Re use of a feeding box--I was told to do that in the beginning, too, supposedly to prevent the BP from getting confused and biting when I reached into his enclosure to pick him up. Turns out it isn't necessary and can add stress; if a BP is particularly sensitive to being handled & won't eat, it can be better to feed them in their own enclosure. BPs rarely bite anyway (though there are occasional biters), and they can smell the difference between you & a rat. In addition, when they are accustomed to being handled without being fed in between feeding times, they know the difference between feeding times and handling times.
Some BPs are more sensitive than others about this. We are Godzilla--giant predators--in their perspective, and handling can stress some BPs out so much they won't eat. Also, some BPs will eat, then regurgitate just because they were handled too soon after eating. Mine never did, but after learning that it wasn't necessary, I quit taking him out and just feed him in his enclosure. A couple-three days later, I take him out to weigh him and check him, and a couple of days after that, I take him out again just for handling. He's never even offered to bite me.
Hang in there--we'll get your guy eating again! :)
Nicolak
05-03-09, 02:28 AM
For now I'll take him out mainly because it's a live rat & the rat is a pooping machine >.<.
When it's F/T I'll feed him in the cage :)
Chu'Wuti
05-03-09, 03:27 AM
it's a live rat & the rat is a pooping machine Ah, yes, good point! LOL
hey another thing is don't worry about keeping the cage dark during the day because it is normal for snakes to have a day/night cycle. so just let the light in. I use a 12 hour lights on and 12 hours lights off cycle. I would move your humidity box out from right under the basking spot your snake might not use it because it probably gets too hot there for it. also if your snake does need the extra humidity then it will have to choose between the humidity and being too hot. try and move it more towards the middle if you can and put a little hide or basking spot under the light.
im thinkin about makin a humid hide with a tuberware container should it go on the hot side or cool side i also have a bp its not that big only about 1 1/2 feet and still eats fuzzys if that helps
o and should i switch him to rats?
Will0W783
08-02-09, 08:19 AM
He seems large enough he could be taking rats- how big around is he? I have my 4-foot, 4-inch thick ball python on f/t medium rats. Feeding him in his enclosure is fine. I feed almost all my snakes in their enclosures and they are all docile. The only time you have to worry is if you don't handle the snake and the only time you're reaching into the cage is to feed. Just make sure when he does eat, that you don't try to handle him for 48 to 72 hours later.
citysnakes
08-03-09, 08:32 AM
i would worry less about a humid hide and more about humidity within the entire enclosure.
vBulletin® v3.8.7, Copyright ©2000-2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.