I need help with a savannah monitor

[Sasami]

First I want to say I didn't let him get this bad, I found him like this and I want to try to get him back to health. He was at a pet store that didn't know how to take care of him; he was brought back after he supposedly bit the previous owner’s kid.
Anyway this guy had no heat at all save for room temp when I found him, and just a waterbowl in his small tank.

http://th07.deviantart.com/fs41/300W/f/2009/006/6/5/savana_moniter_zeus_by_sam92088.jpg

larger picture can be found here (http://fc17.deviantart.com/fs41/f/2009/006/6/5/savana_moniter_zeus_by_sam92088.jpg)

I know he’s really thin and really dehydrated but I want to try to bring him back, then find him a good experienced home for him.
But I need to get him better first, if anyone has any advice that can help me that would be great. This isn't my first lizard and I’m not afraid of bugs, or getting bitten, so don't be afraid to tell me what to do, you may have to explain it but don’t' be afraid to tell me.

And I only had him in the tub once to see if he would drink some, and he did a little bit, also to try and get some of the dust, dead skin, and the random things that were stuck to him off by soaking

I don't have the heat or humidity specks at the moment but I will soon. Right now he's in a 75 gallon tank, with shredded coconut bark as bedding, he has a large sandstone basking rock set over a 25 watt heat pad (the rock is a good 5-6inches thick) a 150 watt inferred heat lamp a 60 watt heat lamp, 2 hides, 1 large water dish, and a screen lid with half of it covered with Plexiglas to keep in humidity (Should I cover some of the other side too?).

I've been feeding him reptile-aid and some stress ease, but I’m going to Pedialyte the next time I feed him I think.

I call him Zeus

[Aaron_S]

I am by no means a monitor expert so let me state that first before I attempt a bit of advice.

He doesn't look to be too thin from the pictures. It could be a lot worse. For feeding. Make sure you only feed him a few insects at a time to start. If he hasn't been eating much then a large meal would put his system into shock. I would use some worms. Silkworms and hornworms, waxworms too.

I'm unsure of what a savannah's humidity should be. As well as, I am unsure of their exact temperatures, but I do believe I've read it should be at least 100 degrees for a basking spot.

[siz]

I am pretty sure that their basking temps can go quite a bit higher than 100f - I think it's actually closer to 135f. Obviously the ambeint temperature is much lower than this though, 80, 85f.

I'm definaltey no expert either but I do have a couple friends who have owned monitors for years. Hopefully someone who knows more than Aaron and I will chime in.

[Aaron_S]

Yah I'm sure it's well over 100f, I just didn't want to give too high of a guest. It's why I said " At least" :p

[Chu'Wuti]

Google "Savannah monitor care sheets" and you'll get a lot of info. Here's a link to one:

Savannah Monitor Care Sheet and Information - WNYHS (http://www.wnyherp.org/care-sheets/lizards/savannah-monitor.php)

A basking spot temp can go as high as 130 deg. F according to the above care sheet.

I'm so glad there are people like you who are willing to go the extra mile for a fellow creature in need, Sasami! Good luck with him!

[Smilts]

Round that belly out a lil with a even diet and get him setup in proper temps and I bet he will be fine. Very cool of you to do the rescue.

[michellegrace88]

Hey there! I don't know much about monitors yet, but your situation intrigued me, so i did some research for ya!

General appearance: The savannah monitor is a stocky monitor with a blocky head, equipped with large, powerful limbs and large talons. The neck and tail are short for a monitor, but still long compared to many lizards. It is colored shades of brown and gray, typically with faint pale spots on its back, darker bands across its tail, and a white underside. Enlarged scales on its neck give it a pebbly appearance. A long, forked, purple tongue is used by the lizard to smell its environment.
Housing requirements:
Enclosure: Adult savannah monitors will need a set-up about the size of a dinner table or large sofa. Plan on 4 feet by 8 feet of floor space. A design that works well uses a galvanized steel stock watering tank as the base with a plywood box of 8 feet long by 4 feet deep by 4 feet tall set on top. The stock tank holds the deep substrate, the box allows room to move around above the ground. Limit ventilation, especially on the hot side of the cage, to prevent turning your enclosure into a dehydration machine. Avoid using wire mesh of any kind, instead use glass or plexiglass to maintain adequate humidity. Young savannah monitors can be maintained in aquaria of appropriate sizes with a basking light set overhead and a sheet of plexiglass over the top to limit moisture loss.
Temperature: The cool side of the cage should be between 75° and 80° F, with temperatures increasing to 90° to 100° F on the hot end with basking spots as large as the savannah monitor's body that reach 110° to 130° F. Night time temperatures can fall to normal room temperature.
Heat/Light: A warm basking spot should be provided for this monitor by radiant light. Racks of flood lamps work well for this, plan on 3 to 4 lamps at 60 to 120 watts each. Adjust the height above the basking spot to reach the ideal temperature. Supplemental heat can be supplied by large, robust heat mats such as "pig blankets." The savannah monitor should be able to rest its entire body on the mat. Ultraviolet light is not necessary.
Substrate: Dirt provides the best substrate. It needs to be deep enough to allow the savannah monitor to construct tunnels and burrows naturally. This provides not only security, but helps with regulating humidity and temperature. Beware, not all dirt is created equal. Go to a nursery or landscape supply business and choose a dirt that holds a burrow and humidity, drains well, is not too dusty, and does not turn to slime when wet. Fill the savannah monitor's cage to a depth of two feet.
Environment: Be careful not to let your savannah monitor get too dry. Aim for humid-tropical air without making the cage wet. Savannah monitors become inactive in the dry season; a dry cage coupled with readily available food will lead to obesity and health problems. Logs and sticks, particularly hollow logs, provide exercise and entertainment. A large cat litter pan can be used for providing water. Live plants will quickly be destroyed by a curious and active monitor.

Diet: Insects can make up the bulk of the savannah monitor's diet, supplemented by an occasional rodent. Lightly dust insects with a reptile vitamin and mineral powder. Large cockroaches, such as Madagascar hissing roaches, are especially relished. If you can collect snails and earthworms from pesticide free areas, add these to your savannah monitor's diet to round it out. A diet based largely on rodents may also be used, but it is unknown if this will cause health problems in the long term (wild savannah monitors eat almost entirely invertebrates). Feed whole food items whenever possible, avoid canned foods, cuts of meat, and cat or dog foods. Multiple small food items are preferable to one large meal. Feed daily. Savannah monitors are prone to obesity, feed juvenile monitors as much as they will eat but adjust the diet of adults as needed. Fasts, possibly lasting several months, may be useful for controlling weight.
Maintenance: Clean up feces and urates as soon as you notice them, inspect the cage at least once daily for cleanliness. Replace the water when it becomes soiled or dirty and scrub out the dish. The top substrate can dry out, but make sure it remains moist (not wet) underneath. Add a few buckets of water to the cage as necessary to keep the substrate slightly damp.








you're doing a great thing for Zeus, keep up the good work!! :)

[michellegrace88]

Google "Savannah monitor care sheets" and you'll get a lot of info. Here's a link to one:

Savannah Monitor Care Sheet and Information - WNYHS (http://www.wnyherp.org/care-sheets/lizards/savannah-monitor.php)

A basking spot temp can go as high as 130 deg. F according to the above care sheet.

I'm so glad there are people like you who are willing to go the extra mile for a fellow creature in need, Sasami! Good luck with him!






jeeeeez i totally should have checked the posts before i replied, i totally referred to the same care sheet as you. hahah! oh well, guess it proves reliable! :p

[Chu'Wuti]

i totally referred to the same care sheet as you. hahah!
No problem; it happens. Sometimes I have had the same thing happen even when I've read everything, because someone else is posting simultaneously! At least we are all trying to be helpful! Yay Us!

[Boostedneon04]

he doesnt look too bad at all..start him off with a few crickets or superworms...get him a basking spot of around 110-130 degrees F and the the ambient temp around 80-85...build him an enclosure large enough for him to fit in when hes fully grown..but make sure u treat the wood with sumthing to avoid water damage and mold etc..use cypress mulch as a substrate..youll have to mist it daily to keep it damp and make sure you use a covered top with vents on the sides of the cage at the bottom..this will keep the humidity in and also allow for the proper fresh air..make sure u have a hide on the hot side and cool side so he can choose between 2 diff temps..give him a few things to climb on they love to explore and dont count on ur cage looking like it was when u first set it up they will turn the cage up side down when fully healthy looking for food and just being monitors

[allergenic]

Your first stop should be a qualified vet.