custom cage problem

[phil_7870]

i built a custom cage for a boa and now i am woundering how long will it tke for the smell to go out of it.do i leave it open or closed heat on off. it is a very strong smell

[mykee]

What did you use in the build that smells so bad?

[phil_7870]

its not a bad smell as to say its not like a smell that u would have to turn ur head away at .i made it out of plywood and lino on the floor.but it doesnt smell like either of them

[mykee]

Untreated plywood is a terrible material for building an enclosure with. It will absorb humidity as well as bacteria and will mold, decay and warp over time.

[phil_7870]

its treat with poly varnish. i put some newspaper down.the is a smell of paper in the cage now .if you use paper would this smell be bad for a snake

[Chu'Wuti]

You need to let it outgas for a few weeks--some of the compounds that are causing the odor may be toxic.

[phil_7870]

what you mean out gas

[mykee]

Give time for any and all toxic fumes to escape the wood.
Those will kill anything you put in there.

[phil_7870]

what leave it open with all the heat on it

[phil_7870]

what could i use for hide boxs as i dnt hav alot of comin up to x-mas and all is there any stuff that would be around the house

[Chu'Wuti]

You mean you already have the boa? Temporarily, I guess you could use a Rubbermaid-type container with a locking lid that you put airholes in . . . or is there an old aquarium in the house that you could get a locking screen top for?

Sheesh.

[johnrandle]

for the hide boxes of my large snakes i take those square rubber tubs walmart or the dollar store has them they are like 16X12 or something? 8" deep. i just cut a hold in one end of them with a soldering iron the snakes love it, i use the same tubs for water dishes. OR you can use cork bark pieces.

[siz]

What are you keeping the boa in right now?

[phil_7870]

i didnt buy 1 yet because of the smell how long will it take to get the smell out

[phil_7870]

i also hav another problem i dnt no what get to put in this cage now i was looking at ball pythons today and they are lovely but i also want a dummeril any ideas would help

[johnrandle]

realistically you should wait at least weeks before yo put anything in the cage.
Also if you want a humid area in the cage but you dont want to have problems of water or wet substrate on the wood you could put a rubbermade in with orchid moss or some other type and you could leave the top on OR off -that could be one of your hides... i use the orchid moss because i think its the best.

what were the measurements agaIn? im sure you could get a dumerils

[phil_7870]

4 ft long 3ft high and 4 foot wide .how many weeks would i need to wait 2 or 3 or even more .+i have a spare 22 gallon what can i house in that for awhile

[johnrandle]

well the cage sounds great for the dumerils or balls. 2 weeks should be good. you could put anything in the small tank. if you are getting a baby or youngling the 22 would be fine but you need to make sure you have a secure lid. i dont recomend just buying anything to fit in the tank lol. wait till your tank is ready and then get the snake you want.
to speed up the drying keep the tank open and put a fan on oscelate in front of it so it blows it out it will super dry it.

[Chu'Wuti]

I've also heard that using heat lamps on it will help speed up the curing process--not too hot, but higher than room temp. Combined with the fan, that oughta do a pretty good job.

[phil_7870]

what do you think is the better of the two snakes in your own opinion .i heard that the cage is to big for balls

[johnrandle]

too big for baby balls use the 22gal for those but fine for adult ball


i have 10 balls i love them.. but i have boas too.. hard to decide. i would go with a ball python or two to start though.

[phil_7870]

that cage seems a bit small for a fully grown ball tho

[johnrandle]

i dont know what you mean, i said the 22 gallon would be fine for a snake if you bought a baby. baby snakes should be kept in smaller tanks until they need more space to keep them feeling secure and safe, and helps prevent stress & feeding issues.

you could use the small cage at first if you got a small snake now and use your big one for it when its bigger, or for another one now or just wait till the big tank doesnt stink anymore and get a big snake now.

[phil_7870]

i still dont no really what i want to buy a dumeril or a ball .is there anything else i should look at before i decide on a snake .what temperture do you keep your balls at johnrandle .any pics of them

[phil_7870]

i was at a pet pet store today and i seen a 2 foot ball for sale .it looked nice but a bit triangluar .then i noticed it had a white subtance around one of its nose hole .i thought ri but it looked like might be a stuck shed .also i seen ther was afew scale missing on either side should i stay away from th animal .

[citysnakes]

phil, do your research on the animals that you are interested in and then decide what you want from there. we cant tell you what we think you "should" get because in the end its all up to you and what youre going to enjoy taking care of.

get a baby snake from a reputable breeder and house it in the 22 gallon tank for now. housing it in the smaller tank will make the first months of keeping this snake easier for you and the animal. when it gets bigger then move it into the enclosure that you just built. this will give you a lot of time to get some actual snake keeping experience as well as getting the smell out of the big enclosure and adjusting your temperature and humidity levels to where you are going to need them before the switch.

[Chu'Wuti]

4 ft long 3ft high and 4 foot wide Wow. That must take up a lot of floor space.

Julian's suggestion to do some research into the snakes that interest you is a really good one, Phil. You need to figure out two things--which ones seem most interesting/attractive to you, and which one can YOU take care of best?

The latter question brings up the most important concern. If you get a very sensitive snake with requirements that go beyond your financial means and your abilities, you will likely lose it. So you'll want to think through the habitat and maintenance issues very carefully before you get the snake.

A baby python can easily be kept in a 20-22 gallon tank for several months while a larger habitat is prepared. That way, as Julian said, you can be sure that the big enclosure is outgassed adequately and you can get its environment adjusted to meet the snake's needs.

[phil_7870]

my main question is about the ball at the pet store as there are no breeders around or is there any shows pet store are my only option .

[Chu'Wuti]

but a bit triangluar .then i noticed it had a white subtance around one of its nose hole .i thought ri but it looked like might be a stuck shed .also i seen ther was afew scale missing on either side should i stay away from th animal .

my main question is about the ball at the pet store

OK, then. First--do you mean the BP's body looked triangular? or its head? If the head, that's normal. If the body--a triangular shaped body with the spine the apex? Sounds underweight--like it may not have been fed well enough or may not be eating. I'd ask 1) what and how often it has been eating, and 2) to see it eat.

Second--the white substance around the nostril. It could be stuck shed or it could be evidence of a respiratory infection. Does it seem to be breathing normally? Does it appear to have any mucous coming out of its mouth? Look at the white material more closely & try to identify it. In my personal experience, stuck shed is more grayish than white.

Third--scales missing on the side? Evidence of a wound? This could be due to rough handling during shipping & could disappear with the next shed.

How does this snake behave when you hold it? Does its body feel firm and muscular? Is its spine unkinked? (Yes, of course it will be curved where the snake is curled around but it should be smoothly curved, not kinked in places.)

Regarding shows, google online for shows or contact a herp society near you. They will usually have info about upcoming shows; they may know of some reputable breeders. As I've been told by some of the folks here, joining the local herp society is a smart move for all kinds of info.

Good luck!

[johnrandle]

i would stay away from that snake completly.
i keep them in bins with a hot end of 90 degrees(thermostat)
i will post pics tonight when im back from work
i have a female ball for sale for 100 bucks --where are you located?

[phil_7870]

yeah its alert and i goin around the cage i held it and it was ok maybe abit light but was alert and a joy to hold .u could feel its strenght but abit under weight

[Chu'Wuti]

Underweight makes it really questionable. It may not be eating, and getting it to eat may be a problem. As you didn't answer the other questions or address the other potential problems, I can't offer any other suggestions, but I definitely think there are possible problems that could worsen in the future. You might want to consider the offer of the female BP John made rather than waste your money.

[phil_7870]

chu'wuti its the body thats triangle .i couldnt see any muscous or hear any breathing problems but it was a loud enough shop with the birds and stuff so that might be y i cant hear a whissing .it was hard to tell what it was i'll have to have more of a look and see if it was stuck shed .the scales it was like say one or two hear and then maybe another one miss a inch or two up th body.its a lovely animal to hold very alert it was a bit jumply but not much .yes it was un kinked

[Chu'Wuti]

its the body thats triangle

If you can see the spine pretty distinctly--sticking up from the rest of the body as a ridge--the BP isn't eating or hasn't been fed adequately. Attendant issues--
--you might not be able to get it to eat
--its long-term health has been compromised
--it is more susceptible to infections, which may not present symptoms until the snake receives an additional stress, such as being moved out of its current environment.

That means that at best, you won't notice problems for a few years but it may never be in optimum condition, and at worst, you won't be able to get it to eat and it will get sick soon after you take it home because its immune system just isn't strong enough to handle the additional stress of the move.

Talk to John about his snake. If you're going to spend $$ on a snake, why not get one that's healthy to begin with so you can enjoy it rather than be frustrated?

[phil_7870]

it will cost to much money to get a snake shipped here .i think i may just keep looking

[johnrandle]

yeah i didnt even see the flag, im sure you can find somebody who sells or breeds snakes around you. or you might have to wait till there is an expo?

[phil_7870]

its hard to find any snake expo or breeders cause no1 is in2 snake around here .there is none native to ireland so people thick they are all like in the films and can kill you .

[phil_7870]

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l112/djslurp1200/breeding073.jpgthe white stuff looks like this but maybe a bit more( not my snake )

[Chu'Wuti]

Is this a photo of the snake at the pet store? It looks like it has a few damaged scales but nothing serious from what I can see.

As you're stuck in a place far away from a breeder :sorry: maybe you'll have to try this snake. I'm just worried that you'll waste your money . . .

Have you been able to observe it eating? What are they feeding it & how often?

[phil_7870]

no i just seen the pic and i looked alot like the white stuff on the ball in the pet store .no i havent been able to see it feed yet but i will try

[phil_7870]

i am just wondering about shredded newspaper.as the person whp lives beside me work at a newspaper factory and told me about all to newspaper that they throw out and if i want it i could have it .so i taught that if i cut it it would make the snake feel safer and be able to hide more .

[Ringo]

Those will kill anything you put in there.
__________________
www.strictlyballs.ca (http://www.strictlyballs.ca)



WOW!!....dude....wow.....

[Chu'Wuti]

Paper towels are better.

However, is the newspaper factory where they make the paper itself? If it is unprinted newspaper, it should be safe.

If it is printed newspaper (like the daily newspaper your dad maybe reads?) then you need to find out what ink they use--nowadays soy inks are being used in the U.S. that are considered nontoxic. Even so, the newsprint may come off on the snake, and paper towels would be better.

You might also check into getting aspen shavings--see if your local pet store carries them or can get them for you--as that is very safe.

Do NOT use cedar or pine bark or shavings--they contain toxic phenols that may kill your snake.

As for a hide--does your mom have any old plastic containers around (not big ones--just a little bigger than the snake when he balls up)? You can cut a hole in one edge, turn it upside down, and voila!--you have a hide. If you search on the form more, people talk about how to cover a plastic bowl with coconut fiber or sphagnum moss to make it prettier and give the snake a better sense of security.

Merry Christmas!

[phil_7870]

i have my corn on beech shaving and for a 20 litter bag its 50euro thats alot and they said they cant get in aspen i think that is bull .i found out about a new pet shop that open bout 30 mins away from me they are selling ball for 100euro babys .i heard that you should only get balls that are at least 2 foot because they eat better . i'm going to that new pet shop after xmas to see

[citysnakes]

actually i find newspaper is better than paper towels because it is pretty much free and it holds humidity much better than paper towels do.

shredded newspaper can quickly get dirty and ugly so its best to just lay it out flat.

printed or unprinted: its all good.

[Chu'Wuti]

printed or unprinted: its all good Here in North America most publishers use soy ink nowadays because soy is cheap to grow. That may not be true in Ireland; if they are still using the old inks, they are toxic.

i have my corn on beech shaving As far as I know, beech does not contain the same phenols that are present in cedar or pine, so it may not be toxic. However, I am not an expert on this, so you might want to check on some of the European forums to see if anyone there has experience with beech.

How long have you kept your corn snake on beech shavings? Who recommended beech shavings for the corn? If that person is an experienced snake keeper, then he/she may already know beech is safe; talking to that person would be useful.

100 Euros? I don't know what a reasonable price in your area would be; I can tell you that that amount is 1.75 times what I paid here in the States. But it may be normal for your area, esp. as shipping is likely to be included in that price.

A younger snake (shorter than two feet) isn't necessarily a problem. If you see the snake eating in the store, then it's more likely to continue eating. Find out what the store policy is on returns--if you can't get the snake to eat in a month, can you return it?

I'm glad that you have found another store so you can compare your options--good luck!

[phil_7870]

what will i look for when i am looking at the snakes in the new pet shop . and will i just use normal newspaper not shredded

[Chu'Wuti]

The following questions/suggestions are from pp. 53-67 of "The Complete Ball Python" by Kevin McCurley:

Look the snake over--does it appear to be healthy, strong, alert? It should not be limp or listless. When you press (gently) on its muscles, do they feel solid (good)? or does it feel squishy or thin (bad)? Its muscles should feel strong. When it balls up, is it easy to straighten (gently)? or does it feel strong?

Is it calm when you're holding it? When it moves, does it move slowly as if it is exploring, flicking its tongue? or does it seem agitated and flail around frantically? It should seem calm but alert and interested in how you smell. If it is agitated and flails around trying to escape, you probably should not get it.

Feel along its spine and its ribs--are there lumps or bumps or kinks that you can feel? These could indicate broken bones. Even when it is balled up, the spine should feel smoothly curved, not bumpy.

Look at its scales & skin. Are there any sores or wounds? Do you see any black specks (poppy seed sized) that you can run off or that come off on your hand? You may also see these moving on the snake's body or around its eyes. These are snake mites--don't get it.

Are its eyes clear? Unless it is getting ready to shed, its eyes should be clear. If there is any sign of cloudiness or pus or infection, don't get it. If there appear to be caps over its eyes, it was unable to shed completely during a previous shed; this could be a problem for you.

Does it keep its mouth closed the majority of the time you're watching it? Or does it yawn or gape often? Is there mucous or foamy fluid around its mouth? Can you hear whistling or gurgling noises as it breathes? These are signs of a possible respiratory infection--don't get it.

Its gums & mouth should be a light whitish-pink color. If there are reddened areas or broken teeth, it may have been injured. If its throat looks puffy on the inside, it may have a respiratory infection.

Look at its vent. Is it clean? Or are feces stuck to it, or is it red and swollen? The latter are bad signs--the vent should be clean and nearly indistinguishable (except for the difference in scale shapes) from the rest of its belly.

Look at its belly. It should be a clear white/cream in color. If there are blisters or reddish areas, then it may have belly rot. However, if the snake is getting ready to shed, its entire belly may be pinkish, but it should be an even color.

Ask how many times it has eaten and what they've been feeding it. When is its next feeding due? Can you watch them feed it? If it has eaten 5-6 meals, you shouldn't have any (or much) problem getting it to eat. If it hasn't eaten since the pet store has had it, don't buy it.

Hopefully others will chip in with some more suggestions, too.

If you do get one and it's cold outside, you might need a heat pack to keep it from getting too cold on your trip home--the BP needs to be at 80 degrees F (25-27 deg C) or he could get sick. On the other hand, your body temperature (96 deg F/37 deg C) is too hot!

Re the newspaper--just lay it flat, not shredded, on the bottom of your tank. Be sure to make or get a hide for the snake--two is better.

good luck!

[phil_7870]

i now own a small ball python that is as healthy as can be its a normal but lovely looking snake

[Chu'Wuti]

Whoopee! Congratulations, Phil! I also have a normal, and they are beautiful as far as I'm concerned! You're going to enjoy watching it soooo much!

[siz]

Congrats on getting a wonderful snake! I have a normal as well, I love her, and as Chu said they are beautiful! Just as beautiful as many moprhs in my opinion!

[phil_7870]

its class its only bout 16 inch really small .hav to try and feed it 2moro .what would be better for me to try a pink or fuzzy .

[siz]

The appropriate feeder should be roughly the same size as the width of your snake. I ASSUME your snake will take fuzzies.

edit: Ask the pet store or breeder you got it from what the snake was last fed.

[phil_7870]

do these grow quick or slow .i no it depend on each snake and the amount of food .

[citysnakes]

you'll soon find out.

[johnrandle]

balls tend to be slow eaters and dont get very big very fast... but some are very agressive eaters and get big fast. it will all depend on your snake and its caging

[Smilts]

congrats on the new bp

[phil_7870]

he wouldnt eat yesterday .the pet shop said that i should try and feed him . im not worried its just because of the move and that .would i be better of feeding him in a week are wait 2 weeks

[johnrandle]

its best to just let him be for at least a week to get adjusted to the new tank and etc.,
feed him in a week.if he doesnt eat then try a week after that.

[phil_7870]

whats the best kind of hides to put in with him .i have the roll from toilet paper in with him now

[Chu'Wuti]

A toilet paper roll won't do very long at all. If you can get a plastic container just a little bigger than your snake when he's coiled up in a ball--say about as big around as your two hands together--you can cut a hole in the lip big enough for the snake's body to slide through. You can use superglue or epoxy to cover the container with sphagnum moss or with coir (coconut husk). Then turn it upside down in the enclosure. Your snake will do the rest.

You can find lots of photos of hides online, and you may be able to find instructions for making a hide on this forum--try searching for hides. I'll go look for a minute and see what I can find.

[Chu'Wuti]

Here are some instructions I copied from another forum:

The materials you will need are:

2 appropriately sized plastic bowls w/lids (I used Country Crock margerine tubs)

1 can of GS (Great Stuff) spray foam

1 tube of silicone (I used GE type II in black)

peat moss, coco fiber, or sand

sharp knife or craft blade

permanent marker

masking tape or painters tape

wax paper

gloves

an open area to put it all together (a place where the fumes will not accumulate and you wont ruin anything with GS or silicone)

To get started, you will need to get an idea of what size bowl you will need. The bowl should be large enough around for your BP to touch the sides of the bowl all the way around when coiled. They feel the most secure that way.

After you have the properly sized bowl, you need to determine how tall the bowl should be. This should be relative to the thickness of the snakes body, and be about twice as tall as it is thick. Mark around the outside of the bowl at the proper height with the permanent marker, measuring from the bottom of the bowl to the top of the bowl (you will be removing plastic from the top, where the lid goes). Use the knife or scissors to cut off the top of the bowl. Be very careful to cut straight. If you want to be able to use the hide as a moist hide, set the top of the bowl aside for now (you will also want to retain the lid for this purpose). Next, you will cut the opening for the snake to go in and out of the hide. To determine the size of the hole, you need to know the circumference of your snake at the widest point (does not have to be 100% accurate). You will want to cut the entrance hole a little larger around than that. IMO (in my opinion), the best place to cut the entrance hole is in the top outside edge of the hide. The bottom of the bowl will be the top of the hide, so you will need to mark the opening on the corner created by the side of the bowl turning into the bottom of the bowl. It is a little difficult to get a 100% circular opening right there, but do the best that you can. Now you will need to use the craft blade or knife to carefully cut the entrance hole. It makes it easier if you cut an X in the middle of the hole, then cut down to the line you marked from each arm of the X. Then you cut off each triangle you have created and then carefully cut out the rounded edge. It is very easy to make a mistake here, so if you don't have extra bowls on hand, be very, very careful. Now that you have the entrance cut and the bowl is the proper hieght, if you are going to use the hide as a moist hide in the future, you will need to take the ring left from cutting off the top of the bowl, and slide it down around the bowl (what was the bottom of the bowl is now the top) with the part that the lid attaches to on the bottom. Use the masking tape to secure the ring to the bowl. Repeat on the second bowl. Before covering with GS, put the lid on the bowls (around the ring that is now the bottom of the hide).

Now the fun part, covering the bowl to make it look like a burrow. If you have never used it before, carefully read the instructions on how to use the GS. I find it easier to work with if you cut the straw in half, IMO, it makes it easier to control the flow if the GS, although you may need to practice for a little bit to get used to how it comes out.

***If you need to practice, put on your gloves and then spray some on a piece of wax paper and make the shape of a rock, that way you aren't wasting it, as you can cover the fake rock and use it later. Lay down a sheet of wax paper for each hide, large enough to leve plenty of space around the outside of the bowl. ***

If you haven't done it already, put on your gloves. Now with one hand, hold the top of the hide (what used to be the bottom of the bowl) down with one finger, and begin to spray the GS around the outside edge of the hide. You want to go slowly and travel all the way around the hide and then begin to overlap and travel up the side of the hide, coiling around until you get to the top. At this point you shouldn't have to hold the hide down anymore for it to stay still (don't bump it though), and you can spray the GS on the top of the hide. Just make sure you avoid getting any GS inside the entrance hole. Now leave it to cure for however long it says on the can. After allowing it to cure, go check and see if it is the relative shape you want on the outside. If it is to your liking (or you can make it the way you want by just carving it), let it sit for a few more hours and then carve it to the shape you want (peel the wax paper from the bottom and remove the lid before carving). If not, then add more GS around the hide until it is the shape you want. (Shake the can of GS longer than it says on the can after you have used it once, it despenses better that way.) If you add a second layer, let it cure another 24 hrs before carving or covering.

Now that your GS is cured and you have it carved to the shape you want, it is time to cover it so that it looks more natural. Put on your gloves. Starting at the top of the hide, smear silicone in small areas and then press the peat moss, coco fiber, or sand into the silicone until no more will stick. Gently dump it off and repeat until you have the entire outside covered. Then dump enough peat moss, coco fiber, or sand over the hide to cover it and gently press down. I have found that this helps to eliminate bare spots. Repeat on the second hide. Leave the hides alone for 24 hrs. and then gently vacuum the hide to remove any loose particles. Let cure for another 24 hrs (or until you cannot smell the silicone anymore, whichever is longer) before introducing the hide into the enclosure.

When making the introduction, it is important to not just dump them in and remove the old hides. If you currently have two hides in the tank, remove the old one that is used less often and replace with one of the new hides. After 24hrs or so, check to see if your snake is IN the new hide, if not, switch the sides that the hides are on (if the new hide is on the cool side and the old one on the warm, just switch them around). IMO, you should leave in one of the old hides until the snake is using the new one, at which point you can replace the old one that is left in the cage with the other new one. This allows the snake time to get used to something new being in the enclosure without too much stress. I am also of the opinion that the entrance to the hide should be placed facing AWAY from the front of the tank, allowing the snake to feel more secure. If and when you decide to use one of the hides as a moist hide, simply place the lid on the bottom of the hide and add some damp sphagnum moss. This way you don't have to clutter the cage with an extra hide at shedding time that the snake may or may not use.

If you PM me, I can give you the link for the source of the above info.

[phil_7870]

i have three old plastic containers in with him and i covered them in apen beding and he wont use them .so i put in the toilet paper rolls and he spends all day in them .

[Smilts]

They will try to find a hide most of the time that they can feel on all sides when coiled, but will out grow those rolls fast. I prefer half logs, and it seems my snakes prefer tite hides that have multiple exits.

[phil_7870]

by the way the cage at the start is still smelling it didnt go away at all. i should notice a difference shouldnt i

[citysnakes]

phil, are you housing a baby ball python inside that big custom enclosure that you built or are you housing it in the 20 gallon tank that you have?

[phil_7870]

no i have it in the 20 gallon

[phil_7870]

he wouldnt eat 2 day either .im not worried but i just want to no am i doin things right.i feed f/t so i let the defrost and then i put them in a little plastic bad in hot water but not to hot as once i cooked a mouse and had to throw it out but then i offer it to him and nothing the within a few minites its cold so i warm it again .but still no sign of him eating so i left it in with him .its a fuzzy by the way .am i doin it rite

[Chu'Wuti]

Phil, just let him hang out without bothering him for a week. He's still kinda freaked out by the move & new environment and needs more adjustment time. Don't handle him or even try to feed him for the next week. He'll be OK.

Check all your temps & humidity a couple of times a day for several days to see whether it's staying warm enough in the BP's enclosure--even at night.

Then thaw out the fuzzy in a plastic bag in warm water until it's completely thawed out. When it's completely thawed out, use hotter water to warm it thoroughly and heat the head with hot water. Then use a feeding tongs or hemostat (Aaron can explain this better than I can) to hold the fuzzy by a back leg & wiggle it gently in front of the snake to attract his attention.

[jimbousmc]

ball pythons are a great beginner snake and the size difference from a ball python compared to most boa is about half a ball will only grow to max of 6 feet and that is largr where as a boa you are looking at 10 or 11 feet so the needs of the snake are will differ you need to look into what snake you will buy and then look into the specific needs that snake will need. also yes you can leave the heat on that new enviorment you built it will help dry anything you may have put on it out but please let it air out a couple weeks to make sure any toxic fumes are gone and make sure you thoroughly clean the enviornment befor you put your snake in it as there may be residues left behind

[Chu'Wuti]

Hey, Jim, this thread is kind of old; Phil bought a BP and is keeping it in a 20-gal while the one he built is outgassing. But it would be nice to get an update on how things are going.

Phil, you around? How's your snake?

[phil_7870]

sorry no up dates the smell is still in the cage tryed living heat on and listerine .my ball python is mad looking for food now i was just wondering if im feeding it the right size but thats a different theard thanks for the help

[siz]

smell is still in the cage tryed living heat on and listerine

..Did I read that right? Listerine? Why?

[phil_7870]

yeah it is supposed to be a disinfectent

[Chu'Wuti]

You don't need a disinfectant to eradicate the smell from your building materials. Disinfectants kill bacteria & some viruses (though viruses are really hard to kill).

I don't know why your enclosure still smells. Have you put it outside in the sun? Maybe that would help. I'm trying to recall what building materials you used; will go back & reread . . .

[Chu'Wuti]

OK, I'm seeing plywood, lino (linoleum?), and poly varnish (polyurethane?). Anything else?

Plywood--if it's the least expensive construction grade has glues that can outgas for quite awhile.

Linoleum-- "The main ingredient of genuine linoleum is linseed oil. (In Latin, linum is the word for linseed, which comes from the flax plant, and oleum means oil.). The oil is boiled, mixed with melted resins, and combined with powdered cork, wood flour, resins, ground limestone and other natural materials. Mineral pigments provide the color." from Linoleum Frequently Asked Questions (http://www.armstrong.com/resflram/na/linoleum/en/us/article17686.html)

Purportedly linseed oil is nontoxic. However, if the material you used is not genuine linoleum, you might have some toxic materials. Or some of the other materials in linoleum may be toxic.

The varnish--is it completely dry to the touch? If not, it most certainly is still outgassing. However, it can still be outgassing even if it feels dry to the touch.
Or it maybe some other components you used in the build? Can you name all the components you used in the build using full names?

[phil_7870]

yeah i think its the lino my mum came in and said it was a new lino smell and should go away but its been ages and its still here

[Chu'Wuti]

Do you have the enclosure outdoors (someplace protected from rain) to aid the outgassing?

[phil_7870]

no its inside (i live in ireland for and like the last 3years we got bout 2 weeks of sun ) i have it in a room were there is always traffics so the air keeps moving

[Chu'Wuti]

Yeah, I know Eire doesn't get lots of sun like some places I could name. Even so, if there's anyplace outside you could set it for a couple of weeks without ruining it, it might help the outgassing. Also, if you could air out the room somehow, you might find that part of the problem is the smell is getting into other things in the room.