Marine Enamel? Alternatives?

[Linds]

OK, so I'm building a 4x2x2 cage for my little tortoise. Now it's going to have several inches of dirt and plants, etc in the bottom so a few coats of urethane isn't going to cut it. I need to be able to waterproof the entire interior (not only is the bottom going to be full of moist dirt, but it is going to be holding 80% humidity as well). Someone mentioned fibreglass epoxy, but I would like something a little easier to use that I can do myself. I *was* planning on using marine enamel until I heard that the stuff offgasses like CRAZY :( Any thoughts on this? Does anyone have any other ideas? I'm at a loss for anything............. :confused:

[Scotty Allen]

Scrounge around for an old waterbed liner. You'll be hard pressed to find any kind of paint that will stand up to the abuse that you are planning on throwing at it. The slightest crack that develops and you'll start running into difficulty. Fibreglass is about the best but as you said very awkward to work with unless you have a warm, outdoor shed to do the lay up in and the time for it to fully cure.

[reverendsterlin]

line the inside with plexi, seal all the edges with aquarium grade silicone(which could also be used to 'glue' the plexi down)

[Edwin]

My melamine terrarium has a layer of plastic sheeting at the bottom and about 2 inches up the sides. It is sealed with silicone. I have only had the terrarium for a few months, so I really cannot comment on how durable this method is.

[Edwin]

Another method you could try that is relatively easy is to buy those fake floor tiles for the kitchen/cellar that come in a big sheet. Just cut out the size you want and stick it to your cage floor and a little up the sides. You can buy this stuff at Home Depot, and it is relatively inexpensive.

Hope this helps.

[Cas]

What about those plastic sheets you can get for lining shower stalls? Line the inside and run a bead of silicon along the corners, and that should do it (<i>probably</i> cheaper, and definitely thinner than most plexi).

Dawn

[Linds]

I was considering that as well, but I am still at a loss for finishing off the rest of the cage. It's going to have a constant 80% humidity and I'm just worried that regular urethane won't cut it. I can put a liner in the bottom but I sitll have the rest of the cage to contend with. I can't line the entire thing as I have to consider there will be a basking spot in there and I don't want to melt or cause anything to start offgassing all over...........

[Jeff_Favelle]

We use food-grade safe paint for all our monitor cages and it works great! Its a one-part enamel and if you paint in the summer or use heat lamps to properly cure it, it doesn't produce residual fumes at all.

Either that, or go for an under-water two-part epoxy. It comes with a catalyst (the 2nd part or "part b") and the catalyst fully cures the paint. Only problem is, its $100 a gallon.

[Linds]

Originally posted by Jeff_Favelle
We use food-grade safe paint for all our monitor cages and it works great! Its a one-part enamel and if you paint in the summer or use heat lamps to properly cure it, it doesn't produce residual fumes at all.

Can you explain? Brand name? Etc? Sounds like my best option...

[Jeff_Favelle]

Its at a friend's place. I have to go take pics of our monitor eggs tonight, so I'll find out then. We get it for $21 a gallon (4 litres), but we know the wholesaler.

[Kurzix]

what about tiles like for shower walls?

[TurboSE]

This fiberglass, do you mean just the resin, or do you actually use the fiberglass mat as well???

[McCarthy Boas]

I use a two part clear, high build epoxy finish on my cage floors.
Here is a link for it.
http://www.eti-usa.com/consum/envtex/envlite.htm

Take care.
Tom

[Linds]

Wow that looks great Tom! Is it easy to work with?

[McCarthy Boas]

Hi Linds,

Yes it is easy to work. I just mix the two parts in equal amounts. You have to mix it very well, it will have a lot of air bubbles in it.
Just pour it on the floor of your cage. Then I just rock the cage from side to side to help spread it out. I then let it set up for about 15 minutes or so.
Then I use a propane torch to pop the air bubbles in it. Just hold the torch a few inches above the floor and wave it back and forth.
Once you start doing this you will get the hang of it.

Take care,
Tom

[honduranfreekk]

Hello Tom how do you find this stuff 4 off gasing and smell month,s later?? :)

[Edwin]

Tom, thats an amazing idea, very easy to do, and looks really nice as well.

How long do you need to air it before use?

[Quervo]

Hey Linds .. you can also get water based elastomeric coatings that are used for roofing. I painted the inside of my tall rainforest cage I'm building with it and have tested it with about 1 foot of standing water for a week without any problems. I put on a coat of Minwax polycrylic and then two coats of Flex-Coat stone mason roof coating I got at Home Depot .. let it dry for at least a week or the Flex-Coat won't be fully waterproof yet. There is also a product sold on your side of Canada :D that is claimed to be totally non-toxic, environmentally friendly, etc, etc., but they are charging about US$100 a gallon for it. .. yikes!

[McCarthy Boas]

Hi honduranfreekk & Edwin,

I let it cure for 2 weeks or more before I use it for any of my boas.
After it is cured I turn the heat mat and the CHE on and close the cage up.
I then let it sit for 24 hours. After the 24 hours are up open the cage up and if it smell
at all I just let it cure a few more days. Once the smell is gone it is ok to use for your reptiles.

It cost about $20.00 (US) for 32oz.
I use two 32oz. bottles for my 6'x2'x2' cages.

Hope this helps.
Tom