Blood Prices?

[Pinto2]

I'm thinking about getting a new snake, probably somtime after christmas. I would really like to get a blood python. Although this will be my second snake i will own, i have experience with handling columbian redtails. My question is, what is a reasonable price for one? I am only interested in babies, so that may affect the price. Also, when do their eggs usually hatch, so i know when to buy one. Thanks in advance, Daniel.

[YoungBuck]

It all depends on the quality of Blood you want. Will you be breeding it? Or just as a pet? Ieither or, the colour/how dark really affects the price. If you want a nice dark red blood, they can be a bit pricey. If you wanted a more pale looking Blood, of course they will be a bit cheaper. IMO, I really like the dark caramel looking bloods as apposed to most liking the dark reds. Both look great though. Maybe if you go more into detail, we can help a little more. Hope this helps a bit ;)

Mike

[SerpentLust]

I'm also researching the purchase of a blood. From what I've gatherred you're looking at, in canadian prices:

Borneo Short Tail around $200-$250
Red Bloods $250-$300
Black Bloods $300-$400

That's the research I've been doing with different breeders, pet stores, wholesalers, etc.

I'm hoping to get a blood at the expo, unless the better half caves and gets me the blue tongue skink I've been begging for lol

Jenn

Edit: These are all CB prices, of course WC would be cheaper but I don't recommend it...

[Pinto2]

Ok, into more detail i will go. I would like the blood to be a nice snake, but i'm keeping him for a pet, and will most likly pick what ever colour i like best, without thinking about rarity. Breedings not a issue as i am 15 and live in my parents house (parents dislike pets, especially reptiles). I hope this helps. As well, would someone who lives by me quote some prices they have seen, or could others recommend breeders websites that could ship, or that are within an hours driving distance. Thanks

[Reticsrule]

if you go on kingsnake.com there are tons of bloods (mostly reds) that are under $100. i have also seen bloods at my local reptile show that were $100 or under. if you can it would probably be best to get a cb baby from a reptile show near you that way you dont have to pay shipping. good luck and keep us updated!

[SerpentLust]

Erm, he lives in Canada and the people on Kingsnake.com with them for $100 are from the US. It's way too much of a hassle to get them into canada.

Try Grant at port credit pets and I know Corey Woods has produced some. Also if you want black bloods Henry Piorun should have some in two months.

Jenn

[YoungBuck]

Breedings not a issue as i am 15 and live in my parents house (parents dislike pets, especially reptiles).

I wouldn't go with a Blood then my friend...how about a nice Ball Python? Not to be rude, but you are aware that you should have an enclosure about 6'x2'x2' right? It's not mandatory, but recommended. As well, Bloods can be some of the strongest Pythons around? I've heard some Bloods can get up to be 5x stronger than a BCI. They are VERY powerful snakes and on the event that it is in a bad mood...watch out~!!! The majority of female bloods that I have seen are about as wide as a plastic 2L Coke bottle. These snakes also need high humidity, and require quite large meals. Word of the wise...if your parents don't like reptiles...stay away from a blood. :D

[SerpentLust]

I don't see a point in descriminating against age. My parents disliked snakes in the home when I got my first pair of ATB's. I believe as long as Pinto2 does his research and has someone else around for handling and things he could get a Blood.

And yeah I recommend 6' enclosures too, you'll see alot of caresheets saying 4' but I think that's poppycock.

However I would still say get a Black Blood they get smaller and are gorgeous.

Jenn

[YoungBuck]

I'm not trying to discriminate him in any way, shape, or form Jenn. I am just merely saying that these are big snakes that need alot of room and alot of care when being handled. I know that my parents wouldn't of wanted me having a 6' enclosure in the house with a 15lb snake made up of pur muscle. If anything happened I know my parents would of freaked out and not been able to help me if that were the situation. If he truly does want a blood then go for it man~! All the best to you~! But IMO he should start out a little smaller. And nowhere in my post did I say anything about his age~!

[Pinto2]

Thanks for all the info, and don't worry about the enclouser. I will simply find a book shelf someone is throwing out and turn it into a cage. Thats what i'm doing right now for my king. Also, not that it matters, but by the time i get one, i will be 16. One last question. If i start this guy in a rumbermaid, a big one. How long untill he out grows it, and what size will he be?? Thanks

[SerpentLust]

I'm not trying to discriminate him in any way, shape, or form Jenn. I am just merely saying that these are big snakes that need alot of room and alot of care when being handled. I know that my parents wouldn't of wanted me having a 6' enclosure in the house with a 15lb snake made up of pur muscle. If anything happened I know my parents would of freaked out and not been able to help me if that were the situation. If he truly does want a blood then go for it man~! All the best to you~! But IMO he should start out a little smaller. And nowhere in my post did I say anything about his age~!

lol don't need to get defensive it's just what I gatherred because you quoted the part where he had quoted his age.

You are quite right about the precautions and dangers however.

My man and I are getting our first blood, but he's 6'6" and quite strong so I'll always have someone to help haha

Jenn

[Invictus]

I'm 100% with YoungBuck on this one. Pinto2, bloods are UNBELIEVABLY strong, and many of them are quite aggressive. Their captive care is significantly more difficult than a boa constrictor, and handling them is WAY different. You can't convert a bookcase into an enclosure for a blood - they are too big and too heavy. In my opinion, having experience "handling" boas does not make you qualified to handle a fully grown blood python. And if your parents don't like snakes, are they going to like having a 6'+ monster in the house that weighs in excess of 30-40lbs? Are they going to like you having 5lb rabbits in the freezer? Do you even know how to keep humidity at 80-90% in an enclosure? I don't think you're ready for a blood. Wait until you have your own place.

[headdown]

I'd also have to agree with Ken, they are sooo much different than handling a boa, not too mention boas don't strike or tag that often which 8 out of 10 times your blood will and even as babies their bites hurt a heck of alot more than a boas :medopen: , If I were you I'd wait a bit and try and find some at shows, stores, breeders etc. where they will allow you to handle one or two a bit just to get the feel of it because they definately are a little bit awkward and very strong not to mention very unpredictable, I know I can have mine out and they seem fine and mellowed out and then WHAM they'll turn so quickly trying to get a chomp in, I definately dread blood cage cleaning day LOL! I'd say go with a ball python and work your way up to a blood once you've had a little bit of time to think it through more and hopefully get some hands on experience.

[Invictus]

Yeah, that's the thing with bloods - no posturing, no displays, no hissing, no warning - just WHAM.

[Jeff_Favelle]

Yep, I totally agree with Ken and other. But still, VERY VERY cool pythons to work with. I only ever had a pair many years ago, but I always vowed one day to own them again. They aren't for beginners though.

[Pinto2]

I don't mean to sound cocky, or stuck up in anyway, but i am 6 foot 3, and 195 pounds, so i won't have the same problem handling their strength as others. But i will take your advice at face value and consider what you are saying. In that case, could you guys recommend another snake that will be a good for getting me ready? Hopefully one that has simular phisical attrabutes(sp) as blood. Thanks for the advice, i'm the type of person who will actually take into account what you are saying, so keep the advice coming.
Daniel

[Invictus]

I'm only 5'9" and 195 lbs, and I wouldn't even handle a 7' blood by myself if I could avoid it. The advice is not so much about the strength of the blood python, it's about being prepared for the MUCH tougher husbandry, and living at home with the parents who probably won't want 5lb rabbits in the freezer, and being prepared for a snake that could strike at you for no reason, and with no warning. It's just simply not a beginner species. Maybe you should think about a female boa constrictor - they get nice and thick, and may be better "training ground" than a cal king.

[Pinto2]

I can't take the chance that a female boa, could get 8 feet. I know its unlikly, but i don't think i could give it the room it needs at this point of my life. Anyother good trainer species?

[Invictus]

If you can't house an 8' boa, how could you possibly house a 7' blood python?

[headdown]

Not to mention, the gurth of these pythons makes them require larger enclosures than boas, that is when they are completely full grown. They might be shorter in length but a full grown blood curled up takes up alot more space than a curled up adult boa! just something to think about, as you already said you couldnt possibly house a female boa. These pythons also grow very fast, the 3 babies I just purchased in April are not so baby like anymore and they are not even a year old. But if you do decide to go with a blood, good luck ...I guess......

[headdown]

Not to mention, the gurth of these pythons makes them require larger enclosures than boas, that is when they are completely full grown. They might be shorter in length but a full grown blood curled up takes up alot more space than a curled up adult boa! just something to think about, as you already said you couldnt possibly house a female boa. These pythons also grow very fast, the 3 babies I just purchased in April are not so baby like anymore and they are not even a year old. But if you do decide to go with a blood, good luck ...I guess......As for a trainer species why not a ball, there are many great morphs out there and they do make a good beginner python as long as you find yorself a good eater!

[headdown]

Oops not sure what just happened I was trying to edit the first post, Sorry

[YoungBuck]

For example...just a few days ago, my small adult male Borneo "bumped" my hand/arm into the side of his enclosure with just the middle of his body where he was bent in half...and let me tell you...my hand had swelled up for a day and turned black and blue within 10 minutes. And that was my small adult~! He's only 4'5" and roughly 15 lbs. Just imagine what a 6'0" 30 lb female could do to you if she wanted? The owner of the Borneos I just picked up had said that the male was wrapped around his arm and squeezed...he said it was seriously 5x stronger than any BCI that has got a hold of him. I ONLY handle my Borneos when someone else is around...I am only 5'4" and 110 lbs...Aaron (previous owner) was about 6'0"~!! Like mentioned previously, these guys do not warn you when they are pissy...they just go for the gusto. They don't "S" pose...they don't hiss/warn you before they strike, and most importantly, they don't try to get away and avoid the situation. They stick it out and fight. They are VERY stubborn animals. I've had Pitbulls who are less stubborn than these snakes ;D And these are just Borneos...Bloods get quite bigger (length and weight). Just think about how big of a step you are taking...Like Ken had metioned, not only does the size and temperment matter, but are you able to provide it with proper husbandry? Humidity? Keeping it's enclosure clean? All things to think about before getting ANY snake for that matter. And like I said before...age has nothing to do with this because by the time the animal is an adult, you will be alot older as well. ;)

[YoungBuck]

Oh...and no one has noted that Bloods CAN get up to 9' as well...not bloody (Haha :D) likely...BUT it is possible ;)

Maybe do what Jenn said and try to find a nice Sumatran (Black Blood) as they stay a bit smaller. A male Black usually only grows to 3-4' but still very strong. But like you said, you are a pretty big boy. Only downside to Blacks is that they are a bit harder to come across. But like Jenn said before as well...get a hold of Henry Piorun. He just hatched a nice clutch of Blacks. ;)

[Reticsrule]

a blood over 7'? i had always heard that a 7' blood is HUGE. i thought a FEMALE usually wouldnt get bigger than 6.5' and 30-40 lbs. i guess i was wrong though.

[Paul_Begg]

The record for a blood is 9' it was found in 1957 by Stull ( i think)
ive kept bloods and borneos for several years and been lucky enough to breed them, however ever since my female borneo laid eggs she has been a bit tricky to deal with. Now im not saying im an expert or anything close, but i do have 15 years of snake husbandry behind me, and in my own simple opinion, a full grown (or even half grown) blood has given me more problems in handling and moving than any other snake ive had to deal with. I liken it to handling a 30lb flexible drain pipe. Sounds wierd but its the only way i can think of describing it lol
I do think that the whole blood complex is a wonderful species to work with, but as has been stated already they are not good for all people. They take up a hell of alot of room, cost a tonne to feed and cost a mint to heat properly, then you have to get the humidity right on. I'd honestly go with a something a bit more manageble than a blood etc.
It doesn't matter if someones 4'11" or 6' 3" a bit from a blood is still the same, messy and very painful.
Cheers
Paul

[YoungBuck]

Well said Paul~! ;)

[pollywog]

So far everyone has good points, and I have two adult red bloods and they are indeed as thick as a 2 litre bottle! Also, being sausage shapes are rather difficult to pick up to clean the enclosure. They also can move faster than a white lip when they want to. Do you really want a 40 pound red missile flying around the room? IMO the best snakes I have are my jungle carpets. They are easy to handle, look good, eat well and never bite, plus they only get 6 feet or so. I highly recommend carpets for anyone looking for a nice pet snake.

[Invictus]

The way I liken a bite from a blood is "painting the walls of the enclosure red", lol.. it hurts, and like Paul said, is MESSY. I've been lucky enough to only have been tagged by a Juvi.

[YoungBuck]

IMO the best snakes I have are my jungle carpets. They are easy to handle, look good, eat well and never bite, plus they only get 6 feet or so. I highly recommend carpets for anyone looking for a nice pet snake.

Dude...I am afraid of my JCP...he is a vicious little bugger~! A blood/borneo will tag you once...my JCP tags like 4 times one after the other until he is out of the enclosure :D But I agree...they are beautiful snakes.

[CHRISANDBOIDS14]

Paul did mention that the size of the person does not really matter, and I must agree. EDIT: I have handled all my bloods alone and have yet to have problems. The only snake i've had that I never handled without someone else that could help me if something went wrong(at least having them in the house) was my 8.5ft 30lb female boa. END EDIT

I am 15 aswell and I do own 3 bloods at the moment, and have owned a several others in the past. I am 5'10" and 130lbs. I have personally found(not jus with my animals but other people's aswell) that bloods and borneos will differ quite abit in how each individual animal handles. Some of my snakes were as someone described earlier 'like handling large flexible drain pipe' and some like handling linguine(sp?...pasta). Each animal will act differently before a strike, and even one animal may do something completely different from one strike to the next. Blood are fairly unpredictable animals but after you have kept several animals, and im sure many will agree, that you learn to be able to read the animal like you would any other snake, and you can understand the snakes attitude at the time.

Also, in regards to everyone talking about 30-40lb animals, I dont think anyone in this thread has a blood that is 30lb+ do they? The largest blood I have personally had was a 6' striped female tipping the scales at 26.5lbs at her heaviest. I did no aquire her that way, she was a fat animal. Most 25+lb bloods are fat. You can see it in how the snake looks with size/length ratios and comparing different aspects of the snake and how the sides look when it moves. I first started to notice all this and also the fact people always say you have to feed bloods alot of big meals when I had an email exchange with Dave Barker from VPI(the biggest blood breeders in the world). The average size weight of the adult female bloods is 12-14lbs, and average length I believe he said was 4.5 or 5ft. I cannot remember if this is correct but I think he said their largest female is only 25lbs most of the time(30lbs during breeding season) and I think she is something like 7ft long. But again the average sizes of their adult females is quite small. Also, it keeps being mentioned about bloods and having large rabbits(ie: 5lbs). Mr. Barker said that they feed their bloods only medium rats(on average) and only about 25 meals a year(or once every week and a half assuming they do not feed during breeding season).

My current adult female is weighing in I believe at 16.5lbs at the moment. I believe her highest was 18.25lbs. She is about 4" shy of 6ft. I can definetly tell when she puts on a couple pounds and she does start to look like she has some decent weight to her. My male is 5.5ft and about 12lbs. He has always looked very healthy and appeared to have a healthy weight. The smaller female, although still growing, is 4ft and 6lbs. She has always been very healthy but it is now approaching the time where she should start to put on girth which she definetly has body space to fill out, but she is not thin.

The largest meals I've ever fed any of my adults are 1.2lb rabbits(or 500g). Most of the time they get anywhere from a medium to collosal rat(150g-450g) or rabbits. All depending on what we can get at the time. We just fed the two adults their largest meals in a few months consisting of 1lb rabbits(or about 450g). They will take whatever is available and have never appeared to be an unhealthy weight(over or underweight).

The reason for the above on weight and feeding is to show my experience and opinion that the blood likely and shouldnt be huge and do not need massive meals.

I do agree however that in this case a blood would not be a good snake at the moment because a jump from a cal king to a blood is quite significant. Blood are fantastic animals to work with and probably one of if not my favorite snake, but they are definetly not a good snake to go with when only a cal-king has been kept before.

Blood do have a very fast strike and also have very, very impressive teeth. I have yet to be nailed by an adult, but have had some juvies hit me, and I agree with everyone the bit would definetly hurt from an adult, and also they are VERY strong snakes. I have had my boa's teeth in my finger and I found that the teeth from him hurt about the same as the larger juvie that hit me.

Just some general advice that works for me. Always stay calm with any snake, not just bloods, and do not show fear or be nervous. Whenever I get twitchy or nervous, I can tell the snake reacts differently and appears to become more agressive and will hiss more as I pick it up. When it is hissing and I simply reach down and pick it up often it will sease to hiss because I did not hesitate and maybe it knows it lost? I am not sure exactly what it is but this is just how it has been for me.

Alot of the things above that have been outline about bloods are some of the same things that should be kept in mind or watch for/done with other snakes but they are more important or require more attention with bloods.

My snakes prior to getting my first blood(which was an 18" baby) were a rat snake(that I had for 3 years at the time of getting my first blood), a corn snake(had him for a year), a 5.5ft male boa(whom I had for 6 months before the blood and still have him) and then I got my first blood. I will agree that even though the boa was much larger and it was such as small blood python, it was a large step in a different direction and with it came many questions that were unanswered and took time or could have used more experience first to understand them.

I do think however that a boa or ball python(or both) are good snake to try out in the steps towards getting a blood, but I think more experience with different species is better before getting a blood. I dont think just one of those species however is good to take a step toward a blood because ball pythons are too small to compare when you talk about handling and their attitude is much different. And boa proportions are different than a bloods and their attitude can be much different. I do add though that most younger bloods nowadays are not as agressive as some of the older animals around.

Anyways that was just my very long 2 cents, haha. Sorry about the long post.

C.

[kevin marter]

This is a pic of my 5 year old son holding one of my adult black females, she is around 5-1/2',20lbs, yes, she is a little on the "fat" side. I have cut back on the feeding since I aquired her back in March. The guy that I got her from was feeding her large rabbits, which is really not necessary as Chris has stated in his post. Large /Jumbo rats are what I've always fed my adult Bloods/Short tails, and they do just fine. I have been bitten on a few occasions by adults, in the 5' range, and a heck of a lot more by hatchlings and juvies, it's really not that bad, Bloods have smaller, and fewer teeth than a Retic or a Burm, and probably a Carpet Python also. Although I would not recommend them for a beginner,once you get your temps/humidity dialed in it's pretty easy. I have owned adult females in the 6-1/2'range weighing 35lbs+, yes when they get that big, they're a little tough to handle by yourself. The point of the pic being, not all are difficult to deal with, and also, the hatchling Black short tail you get may grow up to be larger than you anticapated. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v621/marter/kleatblackfemale.jpg

[YoungBuck]

That is a crazy pic Kevin~! Thanks for sharing~! ;) You'd never catch me holding any of my Borneos tails like that though. I dunno if it is just my 3, but they hate having their tails touched. Great looking Black by the way as well~!! ;)

Mike

[Invictus]

Feeding 5lb rabbits to a blood is not going to make them fat. 5 lbs of rats certainly would, but rabbits have very little fat relative to their size. Besides, if you're breeding a female, you WANT them to be fat so that when they go off feed, they will still be healthy after laying.

Chris, I see you're still on your "most bloods are fat!" campaign. You should take advice you receive with a grain of salt, man. I'll take nothing away from the Barkers - they are definitely among the most knowledgeable herpers in the world - but they have a way of doing things. That doesn't mean it's the ONLY way, and it doesn't mean they are 100% right. I have personally handled a blood that was 45lbs, and it was NOT fat. Larger than most bloods, yes.. but not fat. You can tell when a snake is fat, and when they are solid muscle. The blood in question I am referring to here was fed 5lb rabbits once a month, was healthy as could be, and was so damn heavy, it caused BACK pain holding on to it, lol. All I'm saying is, gather more information than just what one breeder thinks is the right way to feed an animal. I personally think a medium rat once a week is the equivalent of giving a human a twinkie to live on for a day.

[CHRISANDBOIDS14]

Ken,

Im not going on saying that what the Barker's say is Gospel, but I have payed attention to this more and I say I have to agree with them, many bloods are fat. Also, just because a rabbit's fat content is different than a rat does not mean they will get fat on rabbits, and what you say about feeding them a medium or large rat once a week being not even close to enough, I have proven myself that that is not true.

I dont need to argue about this though...... we both have differing opinions of all the aspects of bloods(well many of them) and they always result in an arguement so I'll just give up and say forget it, not because I think your right but because I dont want to waste my time on something that wont change.

C.

[Invictus]

Just curious Chris, how have you "proven" that a medium rat is adequate? Did you ask the snake? Did it turn away a second prey item after that?

[CHRISANDBOIDS14]

Ken, You know that bloods are pigs and will take alot, but feeding till the snakes content CAN result in them getting fat. A human surviving on a twinkie a day is not possible, my snakes have been healthy, and GROWN fairly well on smaller meals. I am not saying I feed medium rats because I dont, the majority of the meals my adults take are in the 225-350g range, thats large rats, but again my animals do great on this diet.

Ken, I would eat 50 twinkies a day if I could, seeing as I like them. Does that mean I should? How do you know how the snake is doing with the size meal you feed it? Did you ask it?

C.

[feral]

Hi Chaps!!. Could you tell me what twinkies are? Im from the UK and I dont think we have em ere and im getting a little lost!!!!!

Btw I feed my biggest blood on Large Guinea Pigs every two weeks. Do you think that g pigs make good food items??

[Pinto2]

Twinkies are a food item that arn't to good for you (make you fat). Their rather small in size and from what i hear taste really good. Mabee someone else can give a better explaination, because I'm allergic to peanuts and can't eat them. Google image search them for a better idea.

[Invictus]

It's a snack food made up of sponge cake and cream filling. Diabetics often have nightmares about them.

Chris, no blood I've ever owned has been fat. I currently give my baby blood large adult mice, and my 2.5 foot female large rats. They are certainly not fat. I've seen boas grow despite being horrifically underfed, it doesn't mean they are well nourished. If I'm feeding my bloods 5 times the size prey items you feed yours and both appear outwardly healthy, why would you not opt for the larger prey item? Does it not stand to reason that MAYBE, despite having the appearance of being healthy, that that maybe there is some malnourishment happening that you don't see? If I was giving a blood a large prey item and it became fat, I would cut back for sure. But the fact that I have given juvenile bloods jumbo rats and they haven't become fat tells me that they not only 'can handle', but REQUIRE more nourishment than what you are giving them.

[YoungBuck]

It's a snack food made up of sponge cake and cream filling. Diabetics often have nightmares about them.

Uhh Ken...I beg to differ...I am a diabetic and I don't have nightmares about Twinkies?? :D I do eat a couple as a treat once in a blue moon, but simply "bump up" my insulin dosage to counter the additional sugar in my body ;)

And now to get back on track and forget about the Twinkies entirely. :D

Once again, I agree with Ken. I have found personally with my Borneos, that they won't even take smaller meals. I offer smaller sized rats, but they would rather go off feed until a large/jumbo rat is thrown in front of them. Same with my little male...he will only strike at a larger meal...one that is a larger than himself. I don't promote over feeding your pythons, in fact I hate people who power feed them. Let nature take its course and on that note, if the snake wants it...why not give it to them?? Food that is~!! (some restrictions may apply :D )

[Paul_Begg]

Good points made by all, in what really shows is that all snakes are different. I agree with Ken when he said that feeding a female heavily before breeding season is needed. My female borneo laid 19 eggs on april 24th this year, but she hadnt eaten since mid feb. She didnt eat again until late June after she had a post lay shed. When she took her first meal again it was like lightning!!! ever since then i feed her 4-5 jumbo rats every 7-10 days, always looking for signs of constipation of course.
Feeding to a snakes content can make them fat, like any other animal they all have different metabolic rates, but feeding a huge female blood 20lbs of food is only going to cause harm if its repeated on a weekly basis. Personally i do believe that even bloods have a "full" feeling, maybe its a number of prey items offered rather than the actual size (it might eat a 20lb pig but not 20lbs of rats, both highly unlikely but just to show a point) anyways good points on all sides, but just remember. bloods are thick, heavy bodied animals, and if you can see a backbone feed em up :)
Cheers
Paul

[Invictus]

Further to my point above, a human "Can" live on one meal a day. In fact, they may even appear outwardly healthy. But they simply are not as healthy as someone who has 3 balanced meals a day. Just because a blood "can" live and grow on small meals does not mean they SHOULD, or that they ARE healthy... they just LOOK healthy.

[CHRISANDBOIDS14]

Ken,

All im saying is that IMO you dont NEED to feed an adult 5lb rabbits.

Also, how are you feeding bloods meals that are 5 times the size of the meals I feed........unless your babies are overweight? 5 times the size of the meals i feed, at the smallest, would be 2.5lbs. I would assume your 30" blood to be 4lbs at a growing age? 2.5lb meal would be impossible for it to swallow. And I would assume the baby is smaller so how would it eat something so large?

Also, I have yet to ever see a fat baby/juvi.

I was just stating my opinion that I dont think that you need to feed the snake a 5lb rabbit every week, I think that is excessive. That was my original point but I was question and people branched off.

Opinions are like @$$holes, Everybody's Got one!

Crude, but true, lol.

Cheers,

C.

[Invictus]

First off, I was referring to adults when I said 5 times what you feed yours. Secondly, a 5lb rabbit may be excessive unless you have a female blood that is 7 feet, which I believe I was referring to as well. But a large rat as an adult meal???? Come on man. I'd really like to see you breed bloods if that's all you're giving your female. And lastly, comments like this:

Opinions are like @$$holes, Everybody's Got one!

..really make you lose credibility dude. You're already painting yourself as someone who drastically underfeeds his bloods, do you really need to add arrogant jerk to the list?

[CHRISANDBOIDS14]

You know what Ken,

The reason for that comment is because it is apparently obvious that we cannot agree. ALL you are doing is crapping on everything I say, I dont think im being an arrogant Jerk. I dont drastically underfeed my bloods either. Also you never suggested the size meal you would feed a 5lb rabbit to until now so how would I know any different?

As I said earlier its my opinion that a blood does not need to bed fed so much. I am not painting myself as an @$$hole, you are the one seemingly attempting to paint me as one ripping apart everything I say and now suggesting I am painting myself as someone who underfeeds my animals and is an arrogant jerk. YOU are the one that keeps comming back and taking apart what I say.

Also, I dont dissagree with feeding a female blood more before breeding season which is what I did do last season, but I dont think they need to be fed alot. The barkers are apparently having good sucess with smaller females, so I dont understand why you need to make your female huge before breeding season? Have you attempted to breed bloods before Ken? Have you sucessfully bred bloods before?

Its a matter of opinion. This has strayed way too far from the threads original intent so why dont we leave it at this, you have your opinion and I have mine. You feed your bloods how you want and I'll feed mine the way I want. My bloods appear in great shape to me, yours appear in great shape to you. This is a pointless arguement thats getting us nowhere, which I have already pointed out and tried to end, but obviously that didnt work.

Agree to dissagree. Everytime we talk about bloods you and I get into an arguement and you suggest im ruining my image. I always seem to be the one trying to be reasonable, so maybe we should just stop here.

Cheers,

C.

[caecilian]

with the proper education, and the understanding that these snakes are big and nasty there should be no reason that you cant have a blood. But it should not be taken lightly. I still live in the house with my parents and that doesnt stop me from owning tiger ratsnakes, yellow anacondas and amazon tree boas. I love it when people my age and younger take it seriously.

good luck

[Jamie]

Well I am with Ken on this one...I feed my ball pythons bigger meals than you feed your bloods Chris. I try to feed a 250-300 gram rat to my females balls, with my bloods I go with 1-1.5lb rabbits on a weekly/biweekly schedual. Bloods are a heavy bodied snake, there is no need to try to make them "slender"...there bloods and I feed them like they are bloods. When I look in and see that they are getting fat then maybe I will miss a week or give them something smaller (which isn't often). I give my boas 2.5-3lb rabbits every 10-14 days, I can always tell when my snakes are content or are looking for some food, considering my adults don't get much food nov-march I give them plenty when they are eating. It all will balance out, especially with any females that are going to be bred. I would like my female blood to be considered heavy in late oct when I cool them and cut off food...and with the weight they lose to egg production you don't really want a "slender" female. I always hear that snakes are overfed/underfed but in all reality I don't care what other people think. I get a number of opinions and see what works for me and more importantly my snakes.

Jamie

[Paul_Begg]

The barkers are apparently having good sucess with smaller females, so I dont understand why you need to make your female huge before breeding season? C.

admittidly the barkers are one of, if not the biggest breeders of the blood complex in the world, but............ just because they breed smaller females does that mean thats better for the snake or more convenient for them????
i know of a couple of boa breeders in the states that keep their females in the 6 ft region just because they can ultimatly house more in a space as opposed to several 9 ftrs and get them to recover the lost wieght quicker.
just a thought but i do believe that any snake should be kept to its full potential.
Cheers
Paul

[YoungBuck]

just a thought but i do believe that any snake should be kept to its full potential.

Well said Paul~!