Kyle Barker
12-13-04, 09:21 PM
I don’t post here much anymore but I figured I would repost the procedure on how to use plastic laminate. It is a very good product and fits perfectly for reptile and amphibian use.
Materials
Wood
Plastics Laminate
Contact Cement
Rubber roller
Paint roller or brush (disposable)
Thin metal/plastic strips
Router
And whatever else you would normally need for your cage construction.
http://www.ssnakess.com/photopost/data/500/464mat1.jpg
Keep in mind i use a table saw and cut the sheet to size when the whole thing is pressed together. if that is not available perhaps cutting to size and applying the laminate would be a wiser move, chipping happens. Although its still water proof, its ugly.
To start things off plastic laminate is basically a plastic sheet with a picture embedded into it. Patterns, colours, and even custom pictures if one is so lucky. It is possible to take a picture of the sunset on the beach and have that embedded into your sheet as the back drop to your vivarium...pricey though.
Here is an example of the common use for it. Counter tops.
http://www.ssnakess.com/photopost/data/500/464lamuse1.jpg
I prefer ply wood to everything. But density board, board, and pretty much any wood will work. Just avoid bumps, must be smooth. I stay away from OSB cause its bumpy crap.
So you have your sheet in full and ready to start building. Lets assume its a regular 4'x8'. You buy plastic laminate in sheets as well, so match it up with your wood. Keep in mind if you’re not using right away to store the laminate picture side out. Don’t let the back side get direct sun, warps and messes the sheet up.
So dust off both make sure there is no bumps (avoid air bubbles when pressing the 2). Its time to apply the contact cement. put a decent coat, evenly, on both the wood and the laminate. keep both facing up and let it "dry". at first it looks wet and shiny, allow it to go dull. depending on your contact cement this is usually 15-30 minutes. if you waited too long, no worries just add another coat, but try and get it the first time.
http://www.ssnakess.com/photopost/data/500/464mat2.jpg
http://www.ssnakess.com/photopost/data/500/464mstrip.jpg
Once they have "dulled" place your metal strips on top of your wood, roughly 1-2 feet across. the idea is to keep the laminate and wood separated until you have lined it all up. Now put your laminate on top of the strips on the wood. Line it up so that everything is how you want it. Now from the center out (don’t do it outside to center) pull out the strips. Press firmly on it and rub it down. Continue your way out.
http://www.ssnakess.com/photopost/data/500/464mstrip1.jpg
Now that the whole sheet is on its time to bust out your rubber roller and work the whole sheet. Get any and all air bubbles out, if there are any. If there aren’t then great, but still roll the whole thing. Once this is on it isn’t going to come off, hence "contact cement". it will break your laminate, so get it right the first time.
http://www.ssnakess.com/photopost/data/500/464roll.jpg
If you get an air bubble it will look something like this underneath.
http://www.ssnakess.com/photopost/data/500/464bad-med.jpg
Not really a horrible thing but if it’s a rack it means tubs won’t fit, and if you punch, bang, stab your cages it will probably crack. Not really of too much concern.
So now you’re done. About half hours work (which is mostly waiting) for a now super sturdy and water proof wood. The only thing I need to add is cutting. I cut face down on a table saw to avoid chipping. I trim the outside edges with the router cause it will not chip and is the cleanest cut you can expect (remember to sand the edges, they are SHARP). A better way just more time consuming and product wasting is to cut your wood before hand and apply the same size or larger laminate. I don’t like cutting laminate on its own though, but a fine toothed saw would be your best bet.
Lastly you need to seal your joins. Water can and will leak in the joins so a silicone or something should be applied to every corner, and if you joined 2 pieces together it would be wise to do that as well. Epoxy would be ideal if you’re not planning on taking your cages apart again. I personally like to build them so that it’s possible to take apart and store....up to you.
Couple examples of some old cages i use with this style.
http://www.ssnakess.com/photopost/data/500/4641.jpg
http://www.ssnakess.com/photopost/data/500/4642.jpg
http://www.ssnakess.com/photopost/data/500/4643.jpg
Materials
Wood
Plastics Laminate
Contact Cement
Rubber roller
Paint roller or brush (disposable)
Thin metal/plastic strips
Router
And whatever else you would normally need for your cage construction.
http://www.ssnakess.com/photopost/data/500/464mat1.jpg
Keep in mind i use a table saw and cut the sheet to size when the whole thing is pressed together. if that is not available perhaps cutting to size and applying the laminate would be a wiser move, chipping happens. Although its still water proof, its ugly.
To start things off plastic laminate is basically a plastic sheet with a picture embedded into it. Patterns, colours, and even custom pictures if one is so lucky. It is possible to take a picture of the sunset on the beach and have that embedded into your sheet as the back drop to your vivarium...pricey though.
Here is an example of the common use for it. Counter tops.
http://www.ssnakess.com/photopost/data/500/464lamuse1.jpg
I prefer ply wood to everything. But density board, board, and pretty much any wood will work. Just avoid bumps, must be smooth. I stay away from OSB cause its bumpy crap.
So you have your sheet in full and ready to start building. Lets assume its a regular 4'x8'. You buy plastic laminate in sheets as well, so match it up with your wood. Keep in mind if you’re not using right away to store the laminate picture side out. Don’t let the back side get direct sun, warps and messes the sheet up.
So dust off both make sure there is no bumps (avoid air bubbles when pressing the 2). Its time to apply the contact cement. put a decent coat, evenly, on both the wood and the laminate. keep both facing up and let it "dry". at first it looks wet and shiny, allow it to go dull. depending on your contact cement this is usually 15-30 minutes. if you waited too long, no worries just add another coat, but try and get it the first time.
http://www.ssnakess.com/photopost/data/500/464mat2.jpg
http://www.ssnakess.com/photopost/data/500/464mstrip.jpg
Once they have "dulled" place your metal strips on top of your wood, roughly 1-2 feet across. the idea is to keep the laminate and wood separated until you have lined it all up. Now put your laminate on top of the strips on the wood. Line it up so that everything is how you want it. Now from the center out (don’t do it outside to center) pull out the strips. Press firmly on it and rub it down. Continue your way out.
http://www.ssnakess.com/photopost/data/500/464mstrip1.jpg
Now that the whole sheet is on its time to bust out your rubber roller and work the whole sheet. Get any and all air bubbles out, if there are any. If there aren’t then great, but still roll the whole thing. Once this is on it isn’t going to come off, hence "contact cement". it will break your laminate, so get it right the first time.
http://www.ssnakess.com/photopost/data/500/464roll.jpg
If you get an air bubble it will look something like this underneath.
http://www.ssnakess.com/photopost/data/500/464bad-med.jpg
Not really a horrible thing but if it’s a rack it means tubs won’t fit, and if you punch, bang, stab your cages it will probably crack. Not really of too much concern.
So now you’re done. About half hours work (which is mostly waiting) for a now super sturdy and water proof wood. The only thing I need to add is cutting. I cut face down on a table saw to avoid chipping. I trim the outside edges with the router cause it will not chip and is the cleanest cut you can expect (remember to sand the edges, they are SHARP). A better way just more time consuming and product wasting is to cut your wood before hand and apply the same size or larger laminate. I don’t like cutting laminate on its own though, but a fine toothed saw would be your best bet.
Lastly you need to seal your joins. Water can and will leak in the joins so a silicone or something should be applied to every corner, and if you joined 2 pieces together it would be wise to do that as well. Epoxy would be ideal if you’re not planning on taking your cages apart again. I personally like to build them so that it’s possible to take apart and store....up to you.
Couple examples of some old cages i use with this style.
http://www.ssnakess.com/photopost/data/500/4641.jpg
http://www.ssnakess.com/photopost/data/500/4642.jpg
http://www.ssnakess.com/photopost/data/500/4643.jpg