Hello from IL...Lots of questions!

[lucky8926]

Hello, My name is Troy and I am from Central Illinois. I'm 25 years old. I'm a Correctional Officer at a state prison. I have a bunch of questions but don't really know where to post them so I will start here. I know I want a snake, but I don't know what kind I want, so i'm looking for some suggestions. Is a 10 gal aquarium big enough? What do I need to get started? Should I get a male or female? Are they easy to care for? Does aggression level depend on breed or just the individual snake? I've seen sites online that sell snakes should these places be avoided? Whew!!! I think thats all for now. As you can see my questions vary so all of this really wouldn't be appropriate to put into one specific forum. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

[HeatherRose]

There are sooooooooo many kinds of snakes out there! Most of the answers to your questions depend on the actual species of snake...look around, check the individual forums, look at pictures, find something that interests you :) Some of the more 'beginner' snakes might appeal to you, some might not. I'm sure you'll find what you're looking for here though :D

As for internet retailers of snakes, as with any hobby or type of business, some are great to deal with and reputable while others can be outright scammers...usually, the #1 place to avoid purchasing from would be a petstore.

Welcome to the site :D

-Heather

[CDN-Cresties]

Welcome to the site, a good beginner snake are corn snakes but like Heather said, look in different forums and see if anything tickles your fancy.

[Asian Jon]

I was in the same position as you a month ago. I started by researching on the net and found a species that would really suit me. So i began with a corn snake and they are generally one of the best beginner snakes out there(king snakes, milksnakes and captive bred ball pythons are great too). I would have to agree with HeatherRose on this one, look for a species you find appealing and then do some research

[Edwin]

Welcome to ssnakess, Troy! As for what snake to get, take a look at the different species available, and then research the ones that catch your eye. No sense getting something you may not like in the future.

[rwg]

What it needs, and how big the enclosure should be depends on what you get. 10 gal would be fine for a western hognose, or some garter species, but would be small for an adult corn snake. Here's some of the most frequently recomended beginner snakes for you to research if you're interested:

Corn snake: Number 1 recomended starter snake. Wont die if the temps or humidity are off a bit. Rarely bite, even as babies. Tend to feed well on frozen/thawed prey. Nocturnal, so dont roam the cage during the day much. Makes a poor "display" animal 3.5 - 5 feet in length.

Ball Python: Heavier than corns, and about the same length. Also nocturnal. Typically docile...rarely bite. Need better control over humidity and temps. Stress more easily than corns, and can cause you distress with hunger strikes, but if you're well educated in their care, they can be handled easily by beginners.

Spotted python: I'm not too knowledgeable on them, but their fans say they are easy to handle, and fairly tolerant of small mistakes.

California King: Much like corns in terms of care, but more active during the day. Stronger feeding response, resulting in the occasional bite, but still an easy snake to keep.

I dont know a lot about milksnake care either, but Hondurans get to a decent size, and have a reputation for being docile and easy to keep. Sinaloans seem pretty good as well.

My favorite is bullsnakes. Bitey when young, but the bites dont hurt. Impressive size as adults, and tame if handled regularily. Even the wilder ones are more likely to bluff than bite.

Western Hognose: stay quite small. Males in particular can live in a 10g. Very unique behaviors. Dont require strict humidity or temp controls. Cons: have rear fangs and an extremely MILD venom. Not dangerous at all, but some people experience some swelling and discomfort if they allow a hoggie to chew on them for a while.

Garters: wide variety of species available. My red-sided are awesome, but they eat pieces of live worms, which is a pain. Temps and humidity are generaly pretty forgiving, but some have tricky diets to provide. Really depends on the species.

My top pieces of advice:

1) Do your research first
2) Buy from a reputable breeder NOT a pet store.
3) Heed the advice of the people on this site. Many of them (not me) are experts in the field.
4) Make sure the animal you buy is feeding well, and on frozen/thawed prey if possible.

Welcome and good luck.

rg

[lucky8926]

I want to start by saying thanks for the warm welcome!! Now a few more questions... What are some reputable online stores to purchase snakes from? Can you over handle a snake or is it recommended to handle them frequently so they get used to you? I really like the bright colored and albino ones.

[Asian Jon]

Since I am new to snakes too, and you are located in the states, I cannot name a reputable dealer. Some of the more experienced herpers can tell you this hehe.... For your other question, according to the research I have done it is safe to handle you snake 2 days after it has eaten to avoid regurgitation. Some snake species prefer to be held less due to stress. With my corn snake when I first got it ,I let it settle in for 3 days before I started to handle it. Then each day I would increase the time I would hold it so it would become accustomed to me.

I agree with what RWG said:
2) Buy from a reputable breeder NOT a pet store.

I got totally ripped off with my first snake purchase at a local pet store....never again!

[lucky8926]

There are 3 terms that i've read and don't know what they mean. het, colurbrids, and neonate. Anyone think of a good online dealer??

[Jeff_Favelle]

Het means heterozygous (its a genetic term), colubrids are a family of snakes, known as the "common snakes" (like corns, kings, garters, racers, etc etc), and a neonate is a baby.

[lucky8926]

So if someone says a snake is het for albino what does that mean?

[Jeff_Favelle]

It means it looks normal, but one of the two genes (alleles) that codes of albinism is in fact an albino gene. Every trait has two alleles (simplified version). Some traits (like albinism) need both alleles to be albino to be expressed. Meaning, the normal coloration is DOMINANT over the albino coloration. Therefore, albinism is a RECESSIVE trait.

Look up Tim Cranwill's page on genetics HERE on this site. No sense re-typing what he's already done a great job of.

[Tim_Cranwill]

Genetics Page (http://www3.mb.sympatico.ca/~cranwill/faq22.html) :)

[lucky8926]

Thanks for the info and link!!!

[lucky8926]

I've decided to get a Ball python. Here is what I have for a setup:
29 gal tank, uth, ceramic overhead heater, digital indoor/outdoor thermometer with rheostat alos built in, 2 hides water dish and i'm using newspaper as a substrate. I'm working my temp situation out right now (I want to have it set up perfect before I get my BP) I'm having some humidity problems though. It's only at 36% right now. I added water to the dish about 3 hours ago but it hasn't moved at all. Will it just take some time or is there something else I can do? I have more questions but first I want to know what you think of my setup and humidity problem.

[TheRedDragon]

Welcome to sSnakeSs Troy, and good luck with your new Ball Python. I highly recommend you to pick up the 'Ball Python Manual', it's a great book for people new to the hobby, and the species, and it can answer any questions you may have about your new snake. As for the humidity issue, try placing an additional water source under the heat source, and that should help create more humidity. Adequate hides are especially important for Ball Pythons, as they seem fairly inclined to get nervous in wide open spaces. Good luck! :)

[lucky8926]

After reading around some more I changed some things. I decided to put the temp sensor in the hide since the hide would cause the temp to rise a little bit. Now my temp is 96 insided the hide, 76 on the cool side. I don't have the overhead ceramic heater on and the uth is put on low via rheostat. Should I add more newspaper to see if that brings the surface temp down a little bit?? I put a towel over the top of the tank to keep some heat in the cool side and humidity in. The humidity only went up to 40%. Everything is still messed up. Like I said before I don't want to get my BP until my temps and humidity are set up correctly. Any more suggestions??

[Asian Jon]

you said you have an UTH, and using newspaper as substrate. This is not a good setup IMO, and as a result your temps are way too high inside the hide. Try to keep it at 90 and to do so you may have to use an inch of aspen bedding. If you want to use newspaper, get yourself a human heat pad you can pick up at wal-mart, canadian tire etc...(I got mine for $14.99 and dont get one with auto shut-off). As for your humidty you may want to make a humidty hide box and there are ways of finding out how to make one by searching google.

[lucky8926]

Asian Jon, thanks for the substrate tip!! I'm kind of leary about a human heating pad. I have read that they can become a fire hazard and won't last very long since they're not meant to be on for long periods of time, which kind of makes sense. So should I have a warm side hide box, cool side hide box AND a humidity hide box?

[lucky8926]

I ran across this stuff called Biomats, here is the description of it:
A ¼-½ inch thich coconut fiber mat that is natural and breathable. It can be used as a replacement for artificial turf and other liners. Can be used alone or as a bottom layer to other natural substrates. Can be used in both wet and dry environments (except saltwater). It is washable and long lasting. Great for humid environments. Can be cut to fit. Weed and pathogen free.

Anyone heard of it or used it?? If so would this be a good substrate for a Ball Python?

[Lokismommy]

If you get a baby that is really a big tank and not too mention glass tanks with a screen lid do not hold humidity well I would get an appropriate sized rubbermaid container with plenty of ventilation. Then use an uth, and put the water dish over the heat pad to increase humidity. The glass tanks are better for snakes like corns and kings snakes that need no humidity.

[Lokismommy]

Use human heating pads those expensive reptile ones don't heat as well and for a substrate use cypress mulch it holds humidity great and wont mold.

[lucky8926]

i'm still not sure if I would trust a human heating pad since they aren't made to be left on for long periods of time. I think they could be a fire hazard.

[Lokismommy]

I haven't had any problems and my friends that are herpers use them too. But if you do decide to get one make sure it does not have auto shut off.

[kaa]

good setup sounds alot like mine, to help the humidity try covering part of the screen with a towl and put some more water in

[sidewinder]

Troy
You can always get a little extra humidity by sraying your snake and entire encloser with a spray bottle set on mist. DON'T go crazy with it though, it needs to evaporate relatively quick to avoid mold (depends on substrate ). Just once or twice a day is good.BP's are nice snakes. Good luck

[lucky8926]

This post is kind of old, since I posted this I have got my heat/humidity under control. Thanks anyway!!